electronics
Last edited November 22, 2008
More by XTL »

DIY multi flash sync


This is my flash sync box (basically just four safe syncs in parallel) that I built last Saturday. I can connect up to four external flashes to it (the four black RCA-connectors on the back) and then connect the box to my camera (the red RCA-connector on the front). I can also connect other triggers to the box instead of a camera (a sound trigger for example).

First I designed a pcb for the box and then printed it on a transparency sheet to use it as a mask when exposing an uv sensitive pcb plate. After that I developed and etched the board and soldered all the parts to it. I used an empty 2.5" USB HDD case as a case for the board because I had it lying around without any other use. I cut about 2cm off from it to make it a bit smaller. The device gets its juice from the 3V lithium battery inside it or from an external power supply (the power switch toggles between those two).

Dimensions: width 75mm, height 13mm, depth 105mm (124mm with connectors).

Front of the box: A test button to see if the device works (every connected flash should fire when this is pressed), sync connector (camera or other trigger), power switch (left: internal 3V lithium, right: external power), external power connector (3-6 VDC). Back of the box: Connectors for four different flashes, can be a new flash with low trigger voltage or an older flash with high trigger voltage (maximum is 600V as the thyristors I used are rated at that).




Parallel port logic analyzer


As I don't have an oscilloscope yet so I needed a cheap way to analyze some signals, I decided to build a simple logic analyzer to use with PC's parallel port. I used the schematic from here as a base and made my own improvements to it so it would work better. I added a 100 ohm series resistor and a 10k ohm pull-down resistor to every line and I take the power from a +5V regulated supply. No PCB available yet because it is so simple that I built it on a dot coppered prototyping board.



The device works quite well and I'm using it with my old 300 MHz laptop, which is running Debian Unstable with Fluxbox. The software I'm using is The Fabulous Logic Analyzer. So far it has worked great and I managed to get all the timings right from my own servo controller (it is debugged in the photos below).

Mentioned at Hack a Day on July 30, 2008:
» Shell case your flash drive



DIY wrist strap holder for D2H


I needed a wrist strap for my camera and I bought a cheap Mennon Camera Grip Wrist Strap from DealExtreme.com, cost a bit under 5 euros. Actually I only needed the strap part from it because these are mainly designed for smaller cameras without a vertical grip so the part going on the bottom of the camera is usually too thick (the one on Mennon strap is about 16mm thick). I already had this project in mind before getting the strap and few days ago I got the strap and started planning the part going to the bottom of the camera. The material I choose was 40 mm wide and 4 mm thick aluminum.

I started the planning by browsing the internet and finding a bottom photo of the D2H because I don't have a scanner at the moment. I remembered that DPreview.com might have one and there it was. I opened the photo in Photoshop and did some measuring to get the photo in the right scale and then I draw the aluminum piece (the translucent gray part) and pulled some guide lines so I can draw all the drill points. I did the planning like this because I wanted the aluminum piece to follow the curves of the camera.



After some thinking and drawing I got the part I needed. In case you might want to print it, print it in 150 DPI and 13 cm wide and 4 cm high. The same model works on D2Hs/D2X/D2Xs and maybe on a D3 too. With some modifications it might be good on some battery grips.



I then printed the guide in real scale and taped it on to the aluminum piece so I can start cutting and drilling it.



Rough shape cut out and holes drilled.



Then after an hour of filing and sanding I had the part ready. I got the idea of putting a small spike on the part from the wireless transmitter that is made for the D2H. The spike (on the left) goes in to a small hole in the bottom of the camera and it prevents the part from moving sideways if the screw is loose.



Finished holder attached to the camera. I added the black tape to get more friction because the aluminum part is quite slippery. It works very well and the thickness of 4 mm is practically nothing and doesn't affect the use of the vertical grip at all.

Vaihtakaa loisteputkivalaisimiin turvasytyttimet - sfnet.harrastus.elektroniikka | Google-ryhmät
groups.google.com/group/sfnet.harrastus.elektronii...
Suurin valaisimien aiheuttama tulipalon syttymissyy ovat
loisteputkivalaisimet. Kun putki rikkoutuu, eikä enää
syty niin tavallinen sytytin jatkaa sytytysyrityksiä
josta seurauksena on kuristimen kuumeneminen joka voi
lopulta sytyttää tulipalon.

Turvasytytin ja elektoninen sytytin ovat sellaisia, jotka
huomaavat rikkoutuneen loisteputken ja lopettavan sytyttämien.
Näitä on harmittavan vaikea löytää koska tavaratalot pitävät
yleensä myynnissä vain tavallisia sytyttimiä. Turvasytyttimiä
saa hyvällä lykyllä sähköalan erikoisliikkeistä. Hinnat ovat
yleensä aika kovia mutta esim. seuraavassa verkkokaupassa
varsin kohtuulliset 1,84 euroa.

 http://www.e27.fi/kauppa/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=174

Turvasytyttimen tunnistaa siinä olevasta punaisesta napista.

 http://www.mattikaki.fi/sahkoturvallisuus/turvasytytin.jpg

Jatkot elektroniikkaan.

Power

Rectification using a Gyrator Circuit
www.circuit-diagrams.com/dg112-Rectification-using...

Rectification using a Gyrator Circuit

Rectification using a Gyrator Circuit

Notes:

To avoid excess ripple output on a power supply feeding a heavy load, usually a large value capacitor is chosen following the rectifier. In this circuit, C1 is only a 470uF capacitor. The gyrator principle uses the effect that the value of input capacitance at the base of a transitor is effectively multiplied by the current gain of the transistor. Here C2 which is 100u appears at the ouput ( Vreg ) to be 100 x current gain of the 2N3055 power transistor. If you assume a dc current gain of 50, then the smoothing across the supply, would be as though you had chosen a 5000uF capacitor. The graph below shows the output voltage and current through the load :

Rectification

The load draws nearly 400mA. With the output directly from the rectifier there is about 5v pk-pk ripple in the output. Using the output at the emitter of the transistor things are much better. The circuit will take a few hundred milliseconds for the output voltage to stabilize and reach maximum value. The advantages are that a smaller, less costly reservoir capacitor can be used with this circuit to give a high quality smoothed supply.


PULSSINLEVEYSMODOLAATIO 555:llä
Yksinkertaisin tapa hoitaa PWM toiminta, on tehdä oheisen piirroksen mukainen kytkentä 555-piirillä.
Potentiometrillä voidaan säätää pulssin leveyttä 0%....100%. Kytkentä pystyy hyvin ohjaamaan FET-transistoria, joka sitten ohjaa DC-kuormana olevaa lamppua tai moottoria.
TESTING ESR OF ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS, without an ESR meter
www.fullnet.com/~tomg/esrscope.htm

TESTING ESR OF ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS


I recently found an easy and cheap way to test ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) of electrolytic capacitors, in circuit, that might save some people a lot of time. It requires only an oscillosope and a simple signal generator.

I had an oscilloscope that I was trying to repair (Intensity control had little effect. Horiz sweep was only halfway across screen at higher freqs. One power supply rail was too low and others were too high.) and I had already checked every electrolytic capacitor in several/many different ways (all in-circuit), and even compared each of the readings to those from an identical unit: Powered off: Looked at signature from component tester (single-curve tracer) across each cap, and from each end of cap to ground, did resistance check with DMM, did capacitance check with DMM, checked resistance from each end of cap to ground. Powered on: Put scope across each cap, and scope from each end of cap to ground, used DMM and measured DC and AC voltages across each cap and from each end of cap to ground. I did find some bad caps (and some other bad components) and replaced them. But the problems were still there!

I had been wanting to order an ESR meter, but hadn't done it yet, and needed to get this scope repaired immediately. I went to Sam Goldwasser's excellent repair-FAQ site, at http://www.repairfaq.org/ and found a GREAT method for testing ESR of capacitors in-circuit that requires only a signal generator and an oscilloscope (and some cables), and had found and fixed the problem within about ten minutes!! Here's what I did (This technique is basically directly from Sam's repair faq site):

I used a signal generator and an oscilloscope to set up what I now call an "ESR Scope": At the output of the generator, I connected a BNC "tee" adapter. I ran one 50 Ohm BNC cable from the tee to a good (Tek 2465A) scope (with a 50-ohm BNC terminator on the scope input). On the other side of the tee, I connected another BNC cable that had alligator clips on its other end (It might have been a 75 ohm cable; shouldn't matter too much?), which I clipped onto the banana plugs of a set of cheap DMM-type probes.

(Terminator note: I used a Tektronix 50 Ohm "pass-through" terminator, on the scope end of the BNC cable. But, you should also be able to use, instead, another BNC "tee" on the scope input, with an "endcap" terminator on one side and the cable coming in on the other side of the tee. A standard 10BaseT Ethernet 50 Ohm coax terminator (and 50 Ohm Ethernet BNC coax cables) should work fine. And they're available at Radio Shack, and probably Staples, et al.)

I set up the signal generator to produce square waves at about 100 kHz, with about 100 mv peak-to-peak amplitude as seen on the attached scope, and no DC offset (A simple 555 timer circuit would do the job, too!). Then, I turned the scope's v/div to 5 mv/div, with time/div at 1 microsec, with AC coupling of the input.

Shorting the probes together gave me a display on the scope that was about one division high. It was basically a square wave, with large narrow peaks at each leading edge. But I only looked at the horizontal part's p-p amplitude.

That's the whole setup! No resistors. No nothing. Just cables (and a terminator). I did also try it with a decade resistor box in series with the probes, just to see what it would look like. I could clearly see each one-ohm increase, on the scope display, with the probes shorted together as well as with the probes across a good electrolytic capacitor.

When I applied the probes across a GOOD capacitor in-circuit, there was little, if any, change in the scope display, compared to when the probes were shorted (since, depending on the frequency, a capacitor should look more-or-less like a short circuit, to AC). But, when I tried it across a BAD capacitor, usually the display would be almost-totally off the screen. And, there were some caps that looked marginal, making the display go from about one div p-p up to about 3 to 5 divs (which probably corresponded with somewhere between 5 ohms and 20 ohms of ESR, if I recall correctly.)

Anyway, within just a few minutes I had found one more bad electrolytic filter cap in the power supply, two smaller bad electrolytics in the P.S., a bad one on the horizontal sweep switch's board, four bad ones near the middle of the main board, and a couple more that I can't remember right now.

I made a note of each one. When I was all done checking, the first thing I did was replace the filter cap in the power supply, and then power it on and check the power supply rails' voltages. BINGO!!!!! YESSS!!! They were all normal again! Not only that, but the horizontal sweep problem and the Intensity control problem were both GONE!! Yippee!

That filter cap had checked out as perfectly OK, using every one of the other methods that I described above (all were "in-circuit", though), and compared OK to the other identical scope's same cap, in all of those cases. But with this "ESR Scope" method, it was totally obvious, immediately. And the same cap on the other scope tested good, with this method (So, the earlier comparisons WERE bad cap vs. good cap, but showed nothing!). [I also noted that after the bad cap was removed, it tested bad in the same way that it had while it was in-circuit, with a basically identical scope display. And all of the other ones that I replaced also tested bad, when OUT of the circuit, even with the other methods.]

This " ESR Scope " method isn't a perfect panacea, of course: There were some cases where, without an identical unit to compare to, the displays would have been difficult for me to interpet, and possibly misleading. (However, it *always* worked with every *electrolytic* that I tried it on, IIRC, from 10 uF 10v to at least 1000 uF 100v, with no need for an identical unit to compare to.) But, then again, I haven't played around with it enough, yet, either. I assume that adjusting the frequency for different capacitances might be helpful, especially if non-electrolytics were to be tested. I also seem to remember that a DC offset in the signal is usually used, when testing ESR. I'll try that, later. And maybe increasing the amplitude of the square wave would be useful, sometimes, too. But, usually, I think I'll want it to be low-amplitude, probably less than +/- 0.4v, so the signal doesn't turn on any semiconductor junctions.

Labels: esr

High Voltage B+ Regulator

 

An amplifier is a device that modulates the power supply to the loudspeakers.  In this regard, the power supply is of the utmost importance.  There are numerous resources on the internet for high voltage regulators.  Most use a zener diode control the gate of a MOSFET or BJT:

This type of regulator is simple and is controlled by a single zener diode.  The 220uF capacitor across the zener filters the zener’s output, and also provides some turn-on delay through the 8.2kW resistor. 

DC Motor Control Circuit

   Notes:
 Here, S1 and S2 are normally open , push to close, press button switches.  The diodes can be
 red or green and are there only to indicate direction. You may need to alter the TIP31 transistors
 depending on the motor being used. Remember, running under load draws more current.  This
 circuit was built to operate a small motor used for opening and closing a pair of curtains. As an
 advantage over automatic closing and opening systems, you have control of how much, or how
 little light to let into a room.  The four diodes surriunding the motor, are back EMF diodes. They
 are chosen to suit the motor. For a 12V motor drawing 1amp under load, I use 1N4001 diodes.

Labels: power
Electronic Equiptment - DIY LM317 power supply
www.ladyada.net/library/equipt/diypsupp.html
Labels: lm317
I-Hacked.com Taking Advantage Of Technology - Charging the unchargeable
www.i-hacked.com/content/view/207/44/#Calculating_...

Wednesday, 14 December 2005
With Christmas right around the corner, those of us who are gadget freaks it seems that most gifts that we both give and receive probably take batteries. As we all know, it costs a fortune to continuously feed our devices with fresh batteries. Not to mention the cost of rechargeables. Afroman's guide to recharging alkaline batteries seemed to be the answer to that little problem so I decided to build the device he describes on his website.  In the following article, I will show you how to easiliy make a device that can charge the unchargeable -- normal Alkaline Batteries

According to Afroman's article the schematic shows a constant current source that can be found in any text book. The circuit works and will in fact recharge (non-rechargeable type) alkaline batteries and if you go to his site you can read the description to understand how the circuit works. During testing of his circuit I successfully recharged and reused several sets of batteries.

Picture 1:   Completed battery charger circuit.

The problem I was having with his circuit is that the transistor is not thermally stabilized and drifts a lot during charging.  What that means is the transistor heats up which causes its internal resistance to decrease and causes the current to increase. To handle the heat and stabilize things I used a fan to keep it cool.  But I needed a better solution.

 

I thought about redesigning his circuit to compensate for thermal drift but then I remembered that an adjustable voltage regulator (LM317T) could be setup as a constant current source. (See Picture 1.) It would be capable of carrying more current than what is needed for recharging batteries which definitely helps when trying to prevent overheating. Most important to me is that the LM317T also has built in protection against over-voltage, over-current and over-heating.  Picture 2 shows the complete setup from the wall wart through the circuit and out to the battery pack.


Picture 2:   Complete setup including wall wart, battery pack and completed circuit board.


Self promotion:

I ripped the circuit in Drawing 1 from the specification sheet of the LM317T, page 16 I think, and then made a couple of modifications. I'm happy to say I've had very good results with this new circuit. It also uses fewer components than Afroman's little circuit and doesn't need a fan to keep the thing alive. The new circuit generates a little bit of heat which is easily handled by a small heat sink. But this is really just overkill.


Drawing 1:     50mA Constant Current Battery Charger


As for safety the first thing you will hear is that during charging these batteries can generate hydrogen gas. This is true but the amounts are so small that you would need many batteries to achieve a satisfactory explosion. I normally only charge the batteries to around 10% over their rated voltage so two 1.5 volt batteries in series get charged to 3.3 volts which does wonders for reusability. I tried overcharging one set of batteries but after about 6 hours I got bored and gave up. I'm thinking it would take several Amps to actually get a battery to blow up. :-)


Parts list:

First you need to get your hands on an LM317T variable voltage regulator, a 1N4004 diode (or similar generic diode), a resistor of the proper value (see Calculating R3 resistor value), a small circuit board and a battery holder. I actually have three different battery holders for AA, AAA and 9V batteries but I usually just put the AAA's in my AA holder. To simplify swapping the battery holders I've added a two terminal lug. Finally you will need a power source. One of those wall warts will work just fine. The one used for this project is a 12VDC unit capable of providing 200mA of current. I could have used one with a lot higher output as the voltage regulator input can accept voltages up to 40 volts higher than the output voltage.

You can try getting everything from Radio Shack but it seems that they have less parts every time I go in there. Usually I prefer buying all my parts on-line because it saves me a 45 minute trip, one way, to my nearest “real” electronics store. In most cases it costs more in gas than it does in shipping. If you would like to order parts on-line then understand that I'm just a customer of All Electronics.  I like them because they always deliver good junk for a good price.  If you don't have this stuff in your junk pile go to their web site and copy the catalog numbers on the left from the table below into their search box to get everything you need.

LM317T Adjustable Positive Regulator
1N4004 Rectifier Diode 1 Amp / 400PIV
15-1/4 15 Ohm 1/4Watt resistor
TER-202 2-Position PCB Terminal Block (Search on Terminal)
PC-2 Solderable Perf Board 1 7/8” X 2 1/4” (Perf Board under Browse by Category:)
BST-51 9V Battery Snap, I-Type (Battery Holders under Browse by Category:)
BH-32 Battery Holder 2 AA Cells (Battery Holders under Browse by Category:)
BH-42 Battery Holder 2 AAA Cells (Battery Holders under Browse by Category:)
PS-10 1 Amp Switching Power Supply w/ Selectable Output (Power supplies)


Assembly:

the diode is optional but it's there to prevent the LM317T from “running backwards” should you kill the power before disconnecting the batteries.


Circuit Description:

In the schematic in Drawing 1 it shows that R3 is a 24 ohm resistor and the caption says that this is a 50mA constant current supply. Resistor R3 is adjustable and should be chosen to set a current that you would like to use. Obviously, the higher the current the faster the batteries will charge. The trick is to keep the current low enough so the batteries don't heat up. The heat damages the batteries during charging and will make them useless. The test board I have is set to charge at 83mA using a 15 ohm resistor for R3.


Calculating R3 resistor value:

To calculate the value for R3 you divide 1.25 volts by the charging current and that will give you the resistor value. For example if you wanted to charge your batteries at 75mA then 1.25/.075 would tell you that you needed a 16.67 Ohm resistor. This is not a standard size so pick the next closest resistor value and you should be OK. You could also divide 1.25 volts by the value of some resistors you have laying around. Then just choose the resistor that gives the closest value to the charging current that you want. That's how I chose the 15 ohm resistor.  It gives me a charging current of 83mA.

At 83mA the test board does not seem to cause any heating in the batteries at all. That is based on the finger test so your mileage may vary. I suspect the charging rate can be set higher but I would monitor the temperature of the batteries to find the safest charging rate.


Conclusion:

There are definite benefits to using this device. The most obvious is the savings you will see. AA batteries can cost as much as $4.00 a pack in the U.S. so if you can reuse the batteries even once then you cut that price in half. You will also benefit the environment by reducing, by half or more, the amount of hazardous battery waste that you dump each year.

The safety factors should not be ignored and I can't promise there aren't any dangers. Take the appropriate safety precautions when using this device. However, in my limited experience I have yet to do anything worse than ruin an already dead battery.


Afroman's guide to recharging Alkaline batteries:
http://www.afrotechmods.com/reallycheap/batteries/batts.htm

National Semiconductor LM317 spec sheet:
http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM117.pdf

Instructables Power LED's - simplest light with constant-current circuit : step 2
www.instructables.com/id/EK2XAPS11GEWOF2YSD/
Circuit parts (refer to the schematic diagram)

R1: approximately 100k-ohm resistor (such as: Yageo CFR-25JB series)
R3: current set resistor - see below
Q1: small NPN transistor (such as: Fairchild 2N5088BU)
Q2: large N-channel FET (such as: Fairchild FQP50N06L)
LED: power LED (such as: Luxeon 1-watt white star LXHL-MWEC)

Other parts:

power source: I used an old "wall wart" transformer, or you could use batteries. to power a single LED anything between 4 and 6 volts with enough current will be fine. that's why this circuit is convenient! you can use a wide variety of power sources and it will always light up exactly the same.

heat sinks: here i'm building a simple light with no heatsink at all. that limits us to about 200mA LED current. for more current you need to put the LED and Q2 on a heatsink (see my notes in other power-led instructables i've done).

prototyping-boards: i didn't use a proto-board initially, but i built a second one after on a proto-board, there's some photos of that at the end if you want to use a proto-board.


selecting R3:

The circuit is a constant-current source, the value of R3 sets the current.

Calculations:
- LED current is set by R3, it is approximately equal to: 0.5 / R3
- R3 power: the power dissipated by the resistor is approximately: 0.25 / R3

I set the LED current to 225mA by using R3 of 2.2 ohms. R3 power is 0.1 watt, so a standard 1/4 watt resistor is fine.

Specifications:

input voltage: 2V to 18V
output voltage: up to 0.5V less than the input voltage (0.5V dropout)
current: 20 amps + with a large heatsink


Maximum limits:

the only real limit to the current source is Q2, and the power source used. Q2 acts as a variable resistor, stepping down the voltage from the power supply to match the need of the LED's. so Q2 will need a heatsink if there is a high LED current or if the power source voltage is a lot higher than the LED string voltage. with a large heatsink, this circuit can handle a LOT of power.

The Q2 transistor specified will work up to about 18V power supply. If you want more, look at my Instructable on LED circuits to see how the circuit needs to change.

With no heat sinks at all, Q2 can only dissipate about 1/2 watt before getting really hot - that's enough for a 200mA current with up to 3-volt difference between power supply and LED.


Circuit function:

- Q2 is used as a variable resistor. Q2 starts out turned on by R1.

- Q1 is used as an over-current sensing switch, and R3 is the "sense resistor" or "set resistor" that triggers Q1 when too much current is flowing.

- The main current flow is through the LED's, through Q2, and through R3. When too much current flows through R3, Q1 will start to turn on, which starts turning off Q2. Turning off Q2 reduces the current through the LED's and R3. So we've created a "feedback loop", which continuously tracks the current and keeps it exactly at the set point at all times.







 
Silicon Chip Online - Circuit Notebook
www.siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_103659/article.html

12V halogen dimmer

I use a 12V 20W halogen lamp (MR16) and a 4.2Ah SLA battery for my bike light system. The battery has only limited life at this power rating, so I designed this cheap light dimmer to reduce the battery drain and allow for longer rides at night.

Based on a simple 555 timer circuit and Mosfet switch Q1, it works by pulse-width modulating the 12V supply to the lamp. The 555 (IC1) is wired as a free-running oscillator, with two different mark/space ratios selectable via a 2-pole, 5-position rotary switch (S1).

The third switch position bypasses the electronic circuitry and connects the lamp directly to battery negative. This gives three power levels of about 7W, 13W and 20W.

A logic-level IRL530N Mosfet with a drain-source "on" resistance of only 0.1Ω ensures low losses and eliminates the need for a heatsink. An STP30NE06L Mosfet would also be suitable.

Labels: pwm, 555
Google Image Result for http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/neon.gif
images.google.fi/imgres?imgurl=http://ourworld.com...
This circuit is similar to the LED clock using 12 neon indicator lamps instead of LEDs. It operates from 2 high capacity ni-cad cells (2.5 volts) which keep it going for a couple weeks. High voltage (70 volts) for the neon lamps is obtained from a small switching power supply using a 74HC14 Schmitt trigger squarewave oscillator, high voltage switching transistor, and 10 mH high Q inductor. Most any small PNP transistors can be used that have a C/E voltage rating of 80 or more. The inverter stage (pins 5,6) is not needed and is just an extra stage. An adjustable low frequency oscillator made from two of the inverter stages generates the clock signal for the 74HCT393 binary counter. In this circuit, the timing capacitor should be non-polarized since the capacitor will charge in both directions, so two 6.8 uF tantalum caps were used back to back which yields about 3.3 uF. The 75K resistor in series with pin 1 limits the current through the input protection diodes when the capacitor voltage exceeds the supply voltage. This resistor may not be necessary with small capacitors at low voltage but was added as a precaution. The binary counts are decoded into 1 of 12 outputs by the 74HCT138 decoders and operates the same way as in the 28 LED clock circuit. The sequence can be extended to 16 by omitting the reset circuit and tying pins 2 and 13 of the counter to ground.
Pulse Width Modulation
www.cpemma.co.uk/pwm.html

A Practical PWM Circuit

LM324 pin connections (top view)

This uses the LM324, a 14-pin DIL IC containing four individual op-amps and running off a single-rail power supply. The sawtooth is generated with two of them (U1A and U1B), configured as a Schmitt Trigger and Miller Integrator, and a third (U1C) is used as a comparator to compare the sawtooth with the reference voltage and switch the power transistor.

Rather than have the fourth op-amp sat there doing nothing, it's used as a voltage follower to buffer the reference potential divider. The high input and low output impedance of this draws very little current from the PD, so high value thermistors can be used in the thermal version of this controller.

Labels: pwm

Doing it discretely.

The next method is one devised by Winfield Hill, co-author of the classic Art of Electronics textbook, and posted by him in this sci.electronics.design thread (post#20).

As simple as it gets, and it works well.

When powered up, Q1 base is connected to 12V through the load and R4; Q2 gate is connected to about 10V (the potential at the R1-R2 junction). The significant gate capacitance of the MOSFET coupled with the high R1 value delays Q2 turn-on, Q1 switches on first and pulls Q2 gate low keeping it off.

With Q1 on, any charge in C1 leaks away through R2; if the momentary-on button SW1 is pressed, Q1 base voltage is pulled low, turning Q1 off and allowing Q2 to turn on, switching the load to full power instead of the few microamps it's been limited to by the path through R4 and Q1.

With Q1 off, capacitor C1 charges up to 12V through R1 & R2, so when the button is pressed again, it applies its voltage to Q1 base through R3 turning Q1 back on and so turning Q2 and the load off.

Some components shown are optional – the LED and its resistor R5 just indicate when the switch is on, diode D1 is to prevent damage from back-EMF pulses with inductive loads such as brushed motors or relays. Capacitor C2 reduces any HF noise on the supply.


Transistor Q1 can be any low-power NPN type, for ease of fitting with the leads in the right order, ie, 'base' lead in the middle. A BC337 or BC547 fit as shown below, a 2N3904 will need spinning 180° so check the pin-out for whatever type you use.

The n-channel power MOSFET Q2 also has plenty of alternatives such as the IRF630 or BUZ71; look for gate capacitance CISS around 500pF or more and a low on-resistance.

NE-45 Lamp Resistance - sci.electronics.basics | Google Groups
groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.basics/bro...

> >> > > I'm interested in using an NE-45 neon indicator lamp, I would like to
> >> > > know the value of the internal resistor (assuming of course it has
> >> > > one, since it's rated for 105/125 volts) so I can add a suitable
> >> > > external resistor to add up to 270k for 240 volt use.

> >> > > Also a question about the socket I'd like to use, it hasn't got any
> >> > > voltage rating, cat. # P8162 atwww.dse.com.au

> >> > > Whats the major differences between the NE-45 and NE-51, besides the
> >> > > different base cap? Which one is the brighter one?

> >> > Dave,

> >> > Did you try Google?
> >> > Here is one hit that may help, there were many others:http://www.lamptech.co.uk/Spec%20Sheets/GE%20NE45.htm

> >> > Richard

> >> So this NE-45 lamp only requires about 82k resistance for 240 volts?

> >What contact is the internal resistor tied to, the side contact or the
> >bottom contact?

> ---
> What difference does it make?
> ---

> >Also not too sure if 82k is right for 240 volt
> >operation.

> ---
> On what do you base your indecision?

> --
> JF

The only neons I've ever dealt with before are the common NE-2 which
require a 270k resistor for 240 volt operation, I thought all neon
indicators did.  Guess you learn something new each day. The reason I
wanted to know what contact the internal resistor is connected to is
so I can put it in series with an external resistor.
Labels: neon
Simple applications of neon glow lamps
www.giangrandi.ch/electronics/neon/simple.html

The mains voltage monitor

The simplest application is the main voltage monitor that is simply a lamp that glows when the main voltage is present.
To obtain such a monitor it's enough to connect a resistor in series with the bulb and connect at a main outlet. The resistance of that resistor may vary on the type of bulb and the main voltage but it's not critical: about 150 KOhm for 220..230 Vac and about 39 KOhm for 110..120 Vac.

It's very important to choose a resistor that can support the desired voltage or connect two or more usual resistors in series. The power of that resistor is quite low and a 0.25 W is usually enough.

The standard hot shoe contacts are:
The center contact is usually the normal full power, no TTL control contact
with the metal mount being the ground or common. You may have to experiment
with the polarity. If you have the wrong polarity, the strobe will not fire.
Labels: flash
Power-controlling slave flash trigger
snowcat.de/flashcontroller/

Nikon hot shoe pinout

This is the pinout when looking at the bottom of the flash:

+-----+
|o    |
|2 3  |
|  O  |
|4   5|
|o   o|
+-----+

The actual functions are most likely more complicated than this (and will certainly include a digital protocol between camera and flash to transfer the lens/shutter settings), but this was enough for my flash and this project:

  • 1: Ground (side contact of the shoe)
  • 2: No idea (maybe AF assist light? This flash has one.)
  • 3: Short to ground to trigger flash (the classic center-pin-trigger)
  • 4: Short to ground to quench flash
  • 5: ca. +5V from flash when charged (not used in this project)
You might notice that I added my own connector to the base of the flash in the picture, but it is just a more convenient way for me to get at the pins I need - a hot-shoe with Nikon contacts would've been much more expensive.
Labels: flash, nikon
Notes on the Troubleshooting and Repair of Electronic Flash Units and Strobe Lights and Design
repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/strbfaq.htm#strboaof

Optoisolated Adapter for Older Flash Units to Low Voltage Cameras

Note: This circuit may not work reliably with cameras using a thyristor or triac to close the shutter contacts. See the next section for one that should.

(From: Brian L. Zimmerman (blz@home.com).)

Many electronic flash units can have a very high voltage between the trigger contacts that are shorted to trigger the flash. For example, the trigger voltage of the "Digi-Slave" DSF-1s flash unit being sold in 2001 for use with digital cameras (See for example, Slave Flash Products) measures 218 V fully charged. This would be dangerous to use on many modern electronic cameras such as Canon digital cameras which specify no more than 6 V.

This design adapts such a high voltage flash for use on a low voltage camera by using an optocoupler to electronically isolate the camera's contacts from the high voltage. It can then be triggered by the camera using the 6 volt supply from the flash unit's batteries, but also works at a lower voltage. The use of a triac optocoupler has the added advantages of using fewer parts than other optocoupler designs and can use the power from the flash's trigger circuit to fire the SCR switch instead of a separate power source.

The adapter circuit can be inserted into the lines inside the flash unit going between the flash trigger circuit and the flash unit's contacts as shown below. Since there are only 4 small parts in this circuit, there is a good chance that you can build it right into the available space inside the flash unit's case.

(WARNING: High voltage precautions apply here - be sure to safely discharge all capacitors!)

The following schematic is available as a PDF in Optoisolated Adapters for Older Flash Units to Low Voltage Camera or in ASCII, below.

System connections

              o--------------------- | ----------------------- (+)
   Flash hot-shoe contacts           |                Flash trigger circuit
              o--------------------- | ----------------------- (-)
                                    \|/
                               Cut and insert
                           adapter circuit below

Flash Adapter Schematic 1

                  +---------------------+      R2
 (-) o-----------(1)---+         +-----(6)----/\/\----+----o Flash Trigger (+)
                  |    |  OPTO1  |      |     5.6K    |A
 To Hot-Shoe      |  __|__   ____|____  |           __|__
 (and camera)     |  _\_/_-> _\_/_/_\_ (5)NC        _\_/_   SCR1
                  |    |         |      |           / |     400V,6A
 (+) o---+   +---(2)---+         |      |          |G | K   (RS#276-1020)
         |   | NC(3)             +-----(4)---------+  |
         /   |    +---------------------+             |
     R1  \   |          Optotriac                +----+
    330  /   |           MOC3010                 |    |
         \   |         (RS#276-134)              /    |
         |   |                               R3  \  +_|_ C1   See note 5.
         o   o                             100K  /   --- 1uF
        (+) (-)                                  \  - |
   To 6V Battery (Flash unit battery pack)       |    |
                                                 +----+----o Flash Trigger (-)

Parts list

  1. SCR1: SCR, 400V, 6A, (RS#276-1020, $1.29, TIC106D, etc.).
  2. OPTO1: Triac optocoupler (MOC3010, RS#276-134, $1.99)
  3. R1: 330 ohm resistor.
  4. R2: 5.6k ohm resistor.
  5. *R3: 200k ohm ressistor.
  6. *C1: 1 uF, 300 V capacitor (electrolytic or other).

* R3 and C1 may not be needed depending on holding current of SCR1.

RS# indicates Radio Shack part numbers. Total cost (October, 2001) is $3.75.

Operation

The camera shutter shorts the hot-shoe contacts, causing current to flow from the 6V battery through the IR-emitting diode at pins 1 & 2 of the OptoTriac. The current is transferred via light pulse which switches on the triac at pins 4 and 6 of the OptoTriac which is powered by the voltage from the flash trigger circuit. Current flows into the gate of the SCR, switching it on and causing discharge of the flash trigger through the anode and cathode of the SCR. The 330 ohm resistor (R1) limits the current through the hot-shoe to about 18 mA, and the 5.6k ohm resistor (R2) limits the current through the triac to about 40 mA. You may need to use a different value for R2 for your particular flash and SCR, since this is based on a 218 V trigger voltage. The triac can handle a larger current (1.2 A peak), but SCR's typically only use a small gate current for triggering.

Note

The circuit with component values shown seems to work reliably (at least so far) for this particular combination of Canon digital camera and slave flash. Others may be quite different. Some info can be found at Kevin Bjorke's: Non-Canon Strobe Page with a List of Trigger Voltages. Just knowing the trigger voltage isn't really enough information as it doesn't imply anything about the available current. Adding an input buffer using a transistor or CMOS gate would eliminate this as a concern.

SCRs and triacs should be driven hard when they are controlling high current sources to make sure they turn on quickly and minimize time where they are passing significant current with a significant voltage drop. The optotriac's output is current limited so this isn't much of an issue. However, the SCR discharges the trigger capacitor through the trigger transformer and this could amount to several A switched in a few microseconds. A gate current 10 to 20 times the minimum spec in the datasheet is recommended so long as this doesn't exceed the maximum rating in the datasheet. In any case, the worst that will happen is that the SCR will fail or become unreliable after running with marginal gate drive - no great loss considering its cost.

With minor modifications, this circuit could also be used with SCR triggering. All that would be required is to add a small capacitor in series with the camera/hot shoe so that the SCR would turn off. (Similar to what's shown in the output of the circuit, above). A high value resistor should be put in parallel with the capacitor to discharge it between shots. Using 0.1 to 1 uF with 100K ohms across it will probably work.

Zener Protected Adapter for Older Flash Units to Low Voltage Camera

This circuit should work with cameras which use either logic triggering or thyristor triggering:

(From: Jean-Paul Brodier (jeanpaul.brodier@free.fr).)

(Page en français : Adaptateur de flash à haute tension (ancien) pour appareils photo (récents) qui ne supportent qu'une faible tension aux bornes du contact de synchronisation.)

The adapter above would not work with my camera and probably not with a number of other ones either. It is certainly able to trigger the flash once, but you'll have to cut the auxiliary power before the next shot. I explain: the camera triggers the flash by means of a thyristor. As long as there is some current flowing through the thyristor, the circuit stays closed. So the auxiliary power source keeps powering the LED of the optocoupler. I tested and confirmed that behaviour on my FZ20. Unless your camera works with a transistor and blocks it after a given time, you'll not trigger two flashes without somehow disconnecting the power source.

The adapter I devised does not have these drawbacks and it works without any auxiliary source.

Here it is:

Flash Adapter Schematic 2

The following schematic is available as a PDF in Zener Protected Adapters for Older Flash Units to Low Voltage Camera or in ASCII, below.

                                    R2      R1
     (+) o-----------+-------+-----/\/\----/\/\-----+----o Flash Trigger (+)
                     |       |     4.7M    4.7M     |
                     |      _|_ C1              ____|____
                     |      --- 22nF            _\_/_/_\_ Triac TO92
 To Hot-Shoe   ZD1  _|_,     |                   /G | A1  400V,1A
   (camera)   5.6V '/_\      +------------------'   |
                     |     __|__ D1                 |
                     |     _\_/_ 1N4148             |
                     |       |                      |
     (-) o-----------+-------+----------------------+----o Flash Trigger (-)

One suggested triac is the TICP206D (RS 638-481). Even the old-timer TIC201D (TO220) was successfully tested!

The camera never sees a voltage higher than about 5 volts, which should be acceptable even for the Canon G1. :-) The voltage from the flash unit may vary from 6 V to 300 V! The capacitor loading resistance of 10 Mohms is split into two 4.7M resistors. Usually, small resistors withstand but a voltage limited to 200 V or so. The resistor loads the capacitor through D1, up to a bit less than 5.6 V as the current is very low due to the huge resistance R1+R2. When the internal thyristor of the camera closes, the upper pin of the capacitor is connected to ground. The lower pin thus applies a negative voltage on the gate of the triac, the diode being then reverse biased and blocked. The triac fires the flash. A thyristor would not do the job, it has to be a triac to be fired with a negative pulse (relative to A1 terminal).

The time delay to reload the capacitor between two successive flashes (computed, not tested) is 0.154 second. Any flash unit needs a bit longer to recharge and be ready for the next shot.

Labels: flash
Circuit Drives Mixed Types and Quantities of LEDs - Maxim
www.maxim-ic.com/appnotes.cfm/an_pk/1862

Circuit Drives Mixed Types and Quantities of LEDs

Portable systems often use LEDs of different colors-white for the display backlight, green for keypad illumination, red for power, etc., and in varying quantities of each. Typically the LEDs are driven by at least two power supplies, one for "standard" LEDs (red and green) and one for white LEDs (white LEDs require a higher forward voltage.) The keypad and other indicator LEDs each have current-limiting resistors.

The circuit in Figure 1 drives the LED strings via transistors Q1-Q4, which operate as current mirrors. This technique offers the following advantages:
  • eliminates the current-limiting resistors
  • drives groups of dissimilar LEDs
  • requires just one power supply voltage
  • allows each string to operate at a different current
  • and allows the brightness of all the LEDs to be adjusted with one control point (U1's ADJ pin).

Figure 1. In this LED-drive circuit, a switching converter (U1) and associated components let you mix LED quantities and types.

Transistors Q2-Q4 mirror the current in diode-connected transistor Q1. Note that the Q1 current-set string (LEDs D3-D5) should have an equal or larger voltage than that of subsequent LED strings. (If it doesn't, the current-mirrored strings may not have enough voltage overhead to function properly.) You can easily meet that requirement in the first string, by placing either LEDs with larger forward voltage drops (such as the approximate 2.8V to 3.7V range of white LEDs), or a greater number of similar LEDs. Then, the subsequent strings with lower voltage burdens can be easily accommodated.

The matched-transistor current mirrors maintain a constant and equal current in all LEDs, regardless of quantity and type. That configuration allows the use of a single power supply and a single point for adjusting LED brightness.

Any power difference between the reference string and a mirrored string is dissipated in the current-mirror transistor for that string: Pmax (transistor) = (VOUT - 300mV - VLEDs) × ILEDMAX. The current-sense resistor value is R2 = 300mV/ILEDMAX, where ILEDMAX is the sum of currents from all the strings. (For a comprehensive circuit and parts list, refer to Maxim's MAX1698 EVKit data sheet.)

Need stupid simple Lithium ion charger - sci.electronics.basics | Google Groups
groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.basics/bro...

Here is what you need:

1 10k trimmer. A cheap one is fine, the setting is not too exact.
1 1k resistor
1 10k resistor
1 1.8k resistor
1 1 ohm 2W resistor (one of the big square ones)
2 2N3906 or pretty much any TO-92 PNP transistor
1 2N4401 NPN (or any TO-92 NPN transistor)
1 IRF1405 N channel MOSFET (or equivalent, see below)
1 heat sink for the MOSFET (TO-220 variety)
1 mounting screw and insulator for mosfet and heat sink
1 regulated 24V@1A power supply

Here is the circuit:

 24V o-----o------------------o--------------------o +
           |                  |
           |                 .-.
           |                 | | 1k
           |                 | |                 Batt Here
           |                 '-'
           |                  |
           |              .---o---.
           |              |       |           .----o -
          .-.           |<         >|   ___   |
      10k | |<----------|    PNPs   |--|___|--o
          | |           |\         /|   1.8k  |
          '-'             |       |           |
           |              |       |           |
           |              |       |        ||-+  N-Channel
           |              |       |        ||<-  Mosfet
           |        .---- o-------)--------||-+  Use Heat Sink
           |        |     |       |           |
           |        |     |       |           |
           |        |     |       |           |
           |       .-.     \|     |           |
           |       | | NPN  |-----)-----------o
           |   10k | |     <|     |           |
           |       '-'    |       |           |
           |        |     |       |          .-.
           |        |     |       |          | | 1.0 Ohm
           |        |     |       |          | |  2W
           |        |     |       |          '-'
           |        |     |       |           |
           |        |     |       |           |
 GND o-----o--------o-----o-------o-----------'

   Adjust by putting a 10k resistor between the outputs, and
   setting the - output to 6V using the trimmer.

(created by AACircuit v1.28.6 beta 04/19/05 www.tech-chat.de)

How it works:

The mosfet and NPN transistor form a fixed current source. They limit the
current through the battery to a value near 700mA. The two PNP transistors
compare the output voltage with the voltage on the wiper of the trimmer.
When the output voltage on the - terminal gets down to the voltage on the
wiper, the current source is turned off. As the battery keeps sucking
current, this differential pair will keep the voltage constant.

You adjust it by putting a 10k resistor across the output (instead of the
battery). Then, use the trimmer to set the - of the output (using your
multimeter) so that it is 18V below the + output.

You could probably get away with a 20V Power supply with these parts. With
an IRF1405, you might be able to skip the heatsink. However, you probably
won't be able to get one of those at radio shack. Get a couple of TO-220
case N channel mosfets and a heat sink (along with some heat sink paste) and
a mounting kit. Handle the mosfets carefully, because you can blow out the
gate pretty easily with a static shock.

Regarding NPN vs PNP (in case you don't know)

For NPN, the collector is the more positive one, and current flows from
collector to emitter.

For PNP, it is the other way around, and the emitter is the more positive
one, and current flows from emitter to collector.

Labels: liion, battery
DIY Test Equipment for Audio and Ham Radio Enthusiasts
www.tech-diy.com/DIY_PWR_Preamp_HV.htm
This preamplifier regulator is very straightforward, using the Supertex LR8N3 high voltage regulator to provide regulated base voltage for an NPN pass transistor.  The Supertex LR8N3 was intended for regulation of the input to off-line switching power supplies, but is readily deployed for audio use:

 

As the schematic shows, the pass transistor can be an MJE3439, BU205A or BU208A -- the last of these is a TO-3 device and should be mounted off the PCB.  The regulator with BU205A should be satisfactory to regulate the input and screen stages of an audio amplifier. It is important to heatsink Q1, even more important to use the proper high voltage isolation on the transistors since the collector is at a very high voltage.
 

The output voltage is determined by the ratio of resistors R1 and R2:

V(out) =

(1.20 *( 1 + R2/R1)) + (Iadj * R2)
where Iadj is typically 10 µA. 
Labels: bu208a
DIY Test Equipment for Audio and Ham Radio Enthusiasts
www.tech-diy.com/TestEquipment/HeatSink/HeatSinkTe...
Heat Sink Tester
Ever wonder how to determine the thermal impedance of that bargain heat-sink?  It's pretty simple -- Mount a 100 ohm, 75 watt resistor to the base of the heat sink, applying thermal grease to reduce the impedance.   While I show an LM35CZ hooked up to a multimeter, you can use a thermometer from Radio Shack or Williams Sonoma.  The LM35 outputs 10mV per degree change in temperature.

This is a calorimetric method used in chemistry and physics laboratories -- albeit in circumstances where great precision is required the device under test (DUT) would be placed in a thermos bottle and surrounded by a conductive fluid with known thermal transfer characteristics. Until the advent of digital signal processing, thermometric methods were the best technique of measuring true "mean" voltages.

1) Measure the ambient temperature with the thermometer, or voltage from the LM35.

2) Apply sufficient voltage to the resistor to generate power of 10 watts in the resistor.  For the setup below, E = SQRT (P * R) =  SQRT (10 *100) = 31.6V

3)  When the temperature has stabilized, record it.  Subtract the ambient temperature from this temperature.

4) The thermal impedance of the heat sink is thus change in temperature for a given power dissipation. 

It is interesting to see just how much you can increase the heat sink's ability to wick away heat from the DUT by applying a bit of air movement.  Hook up a spare fan from a PC power supply.  If you have a variable power supply you can adjust the speed of the air flow.  Just a little bit of air movement makes a huge improvement in the efficiency of the heat sink.
You can get a first cut estimate of the heat sink's thermal impedance using Aavid-Thermalloy's "Thermal Resistance Tool"

You need an LM317!

The LM317 is an adjustable regulator that can output 1.25V to 37Volts! It does this with two resistors and a feed back loop. You simple pick two resistors based on the datasheet equation:

Where R1 is 240-Ohm. You may ignore the IAJD term for the most part.

And hook them to the 'ADJ' pin as follows:

The capacitors C1 and C2 help and are good engineering practice. But if you don't got them, don't fret. They are only AC surge suppressors.

Our LM317 configured for 5V operation

With R1 as 240-Ohm, R2 as 720-Ohm, VOUT you get 5V out.

Labels: lm317
Rectification using a Gyrator Circuit
www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/Power/gyrator.htm
Rectification using a Gyrator Circuit

Circuit : Andy Collinson
Email : anc@mitedu.freeserve.co.uk

Description:
An electronic recitification circuit. The use of large, heavy and expensive electrolytic capacitors is avoided, being replaced by an active transistor.



Notes:
To avoid excess ripple output on a power supply feeding a heavy load, usually a large value capacitor is chosen following the rectifier. In this circuit, C1's value is only a 470uF. The gyrator circuit works on the principle that the value of input capacitance at the base-emitter terminals of a transitor is effectively multiplied by the static forward current gain, HFE of the transistor. In this circuit C2, a 100uF capacitor is effectively magnified at the ouput ( Vreg ).

If you assume a dc current gain, HFE of 50 for the 2N3055 power transistor, then the effective value of the smoothing capacitor would be 50x this value; or be the same as using a 5000uF capacitor without the power transistor. The graph below shows the output voltage and current through the load :-

The load draws nearly 400mA. With the output directly from the rectifier there is about 5v pk-pk ripple in the output. Using the output at the emitter of the transistor things are much better. The circuit will take a few hundred milliseconds for the output voltage to stabilize and reach maximum value. The advantages are that a smaller, less costly reservoir capacitor can be used with this circuit to give a high quality smoothed supply.
Analog

web.archive.org/web/19971114230425/ramiga.rnet.cgl.com/electronics/tvrepair.txt
web.archive.org/web/19971114230425/ramiga.rnet.cgl...
15.19) IR detector circuit This IR Detector may be used for testing of IR remote controls, CD player laserdiodes, and other low level near IR emitters. Component values are not critical. Purchase photodiode sensitive to near IR - 750-900 um or salvage from optocoupler or photosensor. Dead computer mice, not the furry kind, usually contain IR sensitive photodiodes. For convenience, use a 9V battery for power. Even a weak one will work fine. Construct so that LED does not illuminate the photodiode! The detected signal may be monitored at the collector of the transistor (Q1) with an oscilloscope. Vcc (+9 V) >-------+---------+ | | | \ / / R3 \ R1 \ 500 / 3.3K / \ __|__ | _\_/_ LED1 Visible LED __|__ | IR ----> _/_\_ PD1 +--------> Scope monitor point Sensor | | Photodiode | B |/ C +-------| Q1 2N3904 | |\ E \ | / R2 +--------> GND \ 27K | / | | | GND >--------+---------+ _|_ -
smokey.gif (GIF Image, 173x122 pixels)
www.blueguitar.org/new/schem/_ss/smokey.gif
Labels: 386
Use, Abuse, and Misuse of Amplifiers
www.national.com/onlineseminar/2002/amps/transcrip...

Q We’ll have it back in a minute. Somebody, Asa, wanted to know, are 741s widely used in new designs?

Relatively not so much. They’re still excellent for certain things like driving capacitive loads, but a lot of people are doing low voltage work, and 741s are not really suitable for anything below plus or minus 5 volts. And people don’t use them for that much anymore. They’re not cheap, they’re not excellent for anything, they’re not low noise, they’re not wonderful, but if you have them around, use them.

Capacitors Tutorial, Dean Huster, Tony van Roon VA3AVR
www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/gadgets/caps/caps.html

Have a look at Fig. 2 and Fig. 3. As you can see it all looks very simple. If a capacitor is marked like this 105, it just means 10+5zeros = 10 + 00000 = 1.000.000pF = 1000 nF = 1 uF. And that's exactly the way you write it too. Value is in pF (PicoFarads). The letters added to the value is the tolerance and in some cases a second letter is the temperature coefficient mostly only used in military applications, so basically industrial stuff.

So, for example, it you have a ceramic capacitor with 474J printed on it it means: 47+4zeros = 470000 = 470.000pF, J=5% tolerance. (470.000pF = 470nF = 0.47uF) Pretty simple, huh? The only major thing to get used to is to recognize if the code is uF nF, or pF.

Other capacitors may just have 0.1 or 0.01 printed on them. If so, this means a value in uF. Thus 0.1 means just 0.1 uF. If you want this value in nanoFarads just move the comma three places to the right which makes it 100nF.
signal_source_ckt1.png (PNG Image, 600x505 pixels)
www.circuithut.com/var/plain/storage/images/media/...
Silicon Chip Online - Circuit Notebook
www.siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_103659/article.html

Simple white noise generator

This two-transistor white noise generator has a surprising feature – about 30dB more noise than the more traditional designs.

Q1 and Q2 can be any small-signal transistors with a beta of up to 400. The reverse-biased emitter-base junction of Q1 provides the noise source, which is fed into the base of Q2. Q2 forms a simple amplifier with a gain of 45dB. The improved output level is due mainly to the inclusion of C1, which provides a low-impedance AC source to the noise source while not disturbing the DC bias of Q1.

The low amount of feedback also makes this circuit very resistant to oscillations and tolerant to circuit layout. Unfortunately, the truism of "no such thing as free lunch" also applies; C1 makes the circuit very sensitive to power supply ripple.

Use, Abuse, and Misuse of Amplifiers
www.national.com/onlineseminar/2002/amps/transcrip...

Q Asa has a very interesting subtle question about banging to see if the op amp rings. He wanted to know, do you do that on the output of the amp?

You can do it at the input, you could do it at the output, you can do it on the power supply. It’s not that critical how you do it. You do it to see if it’s ringing. If it isn’t ringing, you don’t have to do it very often.

Use, Abuse, and Misuse of Amplifiers
www.national.com/onlineseminar/2002/amps/transcrip...

Okay, my turn. A guy called me up; I think it was honestly more than 20 years ago. He said, “Well, we just plugged in our power supply to our circuit board, and we put the minus and plus 12 volts on the plus and minus 12-volt terminals. We want to launch it tomorrow. Should we launch it? You know, the minus and plus 12 volts was only applied for a few seconds. And I said, Gee, if it’s working at all, it's still horrifying. Throw it away. I would not take that LM108A/MIL38510 and put that in my car radio. It does nothing trustworthy about any op amp with a minus or plus 12 volts on the supplies. Throw it away. And then a year later, some other unfortunate guy came back with the same question, a different guy. I told him the same answer. And I said, By the way, what if you put some anti-reversal diodes on there? And he said, Wouldn’t adding the diodes hurt the reliability? And I said, Compared to the reliability you got after you blew up the LM108, no, it would greatly improve reliability.

We’ll discuss several other little things you could do. What about anti-reversal stuff? Radio — an in expensive radio. You put your battery on it and then you absent-mindedly cross it. Isn't it wonderful that 9-volt batteries have these little prongs and you can put one between it and short it out, and if you put it — and touch them in there, it’ll blow up? Isn’t that a shame? But, if you put a diode in series, it wouldn’t blow up. Except now, you lose a lot of your battery life because if this gets to 6-volts, so this is 6.6, you’ve lost a fraction of the voltage of your battery. It’s less efficient, it’s wasteful, your battery life is less. Then hey, here’s another great idea. You put a diode, a big rectifier (1N4002) across the inputs. Yeah, you put it across the battery, and it croaks the battery and rips out everything in sight — explodes your battery, especially a car battery. Oh, it’s wonderful.

Well, those aren’t such wonderful solutions, although if you don’t care about your voltage, you could set 12.6 volt supplies; you’d get about 12 here. Some people could use this. Some people could use this if you have a current limited supply. If you’re always using a 12-volt supply that you could short and it doesn’t care. This is not a terrible solution. It doesn’t waste any power; it just gets warm when you cross the power supply coming in. But this is not wonderful. And I said, How about this? And I invented this, and I said, “This is such a wonderful invention, I’m going to apply for a patent on it.” And we searched and nobody had invented this thing up until about 1990, but one guy had done it about eight months before I invented it. You think, oh, in the 1980s. Why didn’t anybody think of this? Well, by finally in 1989, some guy did invent it. He invented it a few months ahead of me. But, you put our N-channel FET in here and you put it backwards. So instead of having the current flowing in the drain and out the source, it flows in the source and out the drain, which is okay. This resistor is optional; I just put it in there for a joke. You could put zero ohms, you could put a mega ohm; it doesn’t make any difference. Well, the mega ohm would turn on a little slower. Now, does this have to be a big fancy FET? If you need a lot of load current, you could put in a $2.00 FET and switch dozens of amperes with a tiny IR drop. If you were switching in for a radio, you could just use a 2N7000 that just has a few ohms of impedance; nobody really cares. Now you put it the correct way, the correct power supply, and this thing turns on and the current goes through it. You swap this power and this thing just turns off. You turn this minus and this doesn’t turn on; it just does nothing. This is a reasonably good circuit and that’s on page 164 of this book, or whatever it is. So, this is a fairly good what would you call it? A fairly good application to avoid the damage and the loss of series diodes or the disaster of shunt diodes, and it has very low loss. And it only costs, you know, a dime or two.

Here’s another good solution to a system. You make the PC card edge connector a little bit shorter for your power pins. You plug in your ground, and you start to shove it in this way, at this angle, and this hits before those. You shove it in that way and this hits before those. No matter what you do, ground is always connected before the power supplies. And then you can install your anti-reversal rectifiers here. As I was saying, when you plug it in, this is pretty safe, and you can have an anti-reversal thing on your plus 12 and your plus 5 and your minus 12. And you could even have an anti anti-reversal between your plus 5 and your plus 12 so that this doesn’t go appreciably above the plus 12. That is a very good system solution for many cases.

Use, Abuse, and Misuse of Amplifiers
www.national.com/onlineseminar/2002/amps/transcrip...

Q That answers Myron’s question about, do you believe in analog simulators, especially for AC simulation?

If -- if you applied it right and if you knew it was going to be lousy, and if you got an answer saying it wasn’t lousy, you’d say there’s something wrong with spice. You have to be smarter than SPICE. I’m giving a three-hour session Tuesday night and Thursday night on SPICE down at San Jose State. And I’m warning people, and I’m going to show them this example: don’t trust SPICE. You have to be smart enough that when SPICE lies, you have to say something is wrong.

Use, Abuse, and Misuse of Amplifiers
www.national.com/onlineseminar/2002/amps/transcrip...

Q Here’s a great question from Kim that I know you know the history of where the bootstrap comes from, the term when we say we "bootstrapped an amplifier."

All right. Let’s say we have an op amp that has a certain input impedance. We want to drive it, drive the input. But it looks like a big lag because here’s a CR, looks like a big lead. This resistance is a heavy load. But, if we drive this and then take the midpoint of this capacitor and drive it again, this is called a bootstrap connection where as this goes up and down and this goes up and down and this goes up and down, there ain't no voltage across here. This is pulling this up by its bootstraps; the amplifier has to drive this. This goes back to when you had cathode followers and the bootstrap resistor comes in here and the bootstrap comes in here. And that’s only about what, 70, 80 years old?

So, that’s what it’s called. It’s like picking your boots up by your own bootstraps, which with boots you can’t do it, but with input impedances, you can.

Use, Abuse, and Misuse of Amplifiers
www.national.com/onlineseminar/2002/amps/transcrip...

“Fools you are when you say you like to learn by your experience. I prefer to profit by the mistakes of others and avoid the price of my own.”

We should really point out that: “the best model of a cat is a cat; preferably the same cat.” And that was Norbert Wiener who invented that one, that saying. I tend to agree with it.

Now, Bob Pease says, “How can I help you get your analog task done with less grief?” Well, two general rules are: Always use an appropriate CF feedback cap around your op amp, and always add appropriate bypass caps on your amplifier or on your circuit. Now, let’s go into A in a little more detail. On a general-purpose op amp, you should always add a small feedback cap, 20 or 200 pico farads, unless you can prove it is not needed. On a current feedback amplifier, you should never add CF unless you can prove it’s okay.

How do you prove it? Section AA-Prime. Don’t just look to see if your circuit is oscillating; bang on it and see if it rings. Hey, that’s pretty deadbeat. It didn’t ring. If it rings, you know it may not be oscillating right now, but it might be soon. So, watch out for that; don’t just see if the oscillation dies out. If it doesn’t die out darn fast, you’re close to trouble.

And B - power supply bypassing. Every group of one of linear circuits needs some ceramic and some electrolytic or tantalum bypass caps. Hot, fast amplifiers really need to get a few capacitors right next to the power supply terminals of that amplifier. And if you have a hot amplifier that’s faster than 2 MHz, 4 MHz, a data sheet will remind you, yeah, you got to add your microfarads. And if it’s a really hot op amp like 100 MHz, 200 MHz, it will remind you, you have to have the capacitor about a tenth of an inch maximum away from the power supply pins. If in doubt, bang on the thing.


Let's say we have a circuit like this, and we want to bang on it. So we’ll take the output and just put in a square wave. And, 0.01 and 10K; you bang on the output, and it would ring. I mean you take this output right here and put 10K in a square wave generator and the output would ring a little bit. So, that’s what I mean by banging on it. You don’t have to literally bang the table, although that’s pretty deadbeat. At least it’s not going, ding, ding, ding. And, with a circuit, you want it to die out. Now this circuit, with the R and the C, you could bang on this until it, sort of, it might overshoot just a little bit, but it settles out and does not give much problem. And, when you’re asking it to have low slew error, it would do pretty good at having the ramp error go away.

Q Martin wants us to say more about ferrites, but in what context?

I love ferrites in switch mode regulators. I don’t use them for a damn thing else. And if you do, you may know a lot more about it. But, I can’t possibly answer every question about ferrites – enough. Okay?


Another possibility is some amplifiers, if they’re small, can overheat with any kind of extra heating source, such as, you hit the rails with it, you drive the input, your output hits the rails, and the internal drivers can get too warm. How about a nice little op amp that’s small and it’s got about 100 MHz bandwidth, and you put a capacitive load on it, and the poor little dear breaks into oscillation and hammers as hard as it can to drive that capacitive load, and it gets hot. Please avoid that. Now, we have some excellent new op amps, which are rail-to-rail on the input, rail-to-rail on the output; it is bipolar, it's not CMOS. But it has almost perfect infinite tolerance of CL. You put a capacitive load on it; it slows down. You put more load; it slows down some more. But it doesn’t go berserk.

Another guy said, “Your LM317, the output is oscillating at 90 hertz.” And I said, “The LM317 cannot oscillate at 90 hertz, but are you talking about the tiniest little LM317L in the smallest little package?” He said, “Yes, how did you know that?” And I said, “Well, it’s going into thermal limit.” And thermal limit often goes in and out of operation at about 90 hertz. So, I told him to go back to put a little tiny bit of heat sinking on it to get a little bit of heat out of the poor little thing, and it should be okay.

Oh, let’s see. Let’s talk about the kinds of diodes. With 1N914’s, they’re fast; they can actually take 75 milliamperes DC and a couple hundred milliamperes of transient pulse. But they are leaky, five, 10 nanoampers at room temp. Much worse if you ever let them get warm. So you normally don’t use 1N914s, unless you can tolerate one of the world’s leakiest diodes, although I’ve got to say this is leakier. Something like the 1N484 and 1N457, ordinary low leakage diode, you can’t even find them anymore. They’re low leakage but they’re not very fast, and they’re not very low leakage either. 1N4002, it’s amazing. This is a one-amp rectifier. What's it got for leakage? A few picoamperes? Nobody’s going to guarantee that, but you can easily go out and select something inside 50 picoamperes and you’ll never find a bad 1N4002. It will leak as bad as 50 picoamperes. So, for some applications, hey, you could put in some 1N914s, you could put in some 1N4002s. The 1N914s will turn on fast; these won’t. These will handle the ampere and these won’t. So, there's a whole bunch of funny things you can do with store-bought diodes. And we’ll also discuss in a little while the 1N5817, which is a Schottky.

This thing can actually carry the three amperes, and it can turn on in less than a nanosecond. Unfortunately, there are some cases where one nanosecond is not fast enough, and we’ll be discussing that later.

Now, if you take a 2N3904 and tie the base to the collector, and you look at the emitter versus that collector, that is a very good diode. It is extremely fast. It may be one of the fastest turn-on diodes I know. It turns on fast, it turns off fast, and it has very low leakage, subpicoampere also at room temp. Unfortunately, it can only stand off a few volts because the base-emitter junction does not stand off a lot of volts. Now, you can get a pretty good low leakage diode because your base-collector junction of that same transistor is good for about 50 volts. It’s very low leakage, but it is not very fast. It’s not very fast to turn on; it’s not very fast to turn off.

There’s one other thing you can buy if you really need blast proofing is a Transzorb, and I think they still make them, and they’re much better than zeners. They say, “Well, it’s like a zener, but it’s about 20 times more robust at taking sheer damage and current times voltage than any zener. You can get them in all sorts of voltages. I don’t know how much they cost these days, but there are applications where a Transzorb will protect you, and a lot of these circuits don’t quite protect you.

Q Bob, how about a JFET hooked up as a diode for low leakage? I’ve seen that in circuits.

There are JFETs that have low leakage, but they’re not a hell of a lot better than a 2N3904; those are subpicoampere, also.

Now, let me drag out of my book, which has a lot of junk information and a lot of useful information. It has Appendix E somewhere in here, and has a list of various diodes. And we got a Schottky rectifier. I’m going to go down this list. The Schottky rectifier is very high leakage. It’s got several micro-amperes. There are other Schottky rectifiers that will leak milliamperes, but they will soak up and absorb amperes, like that 1N5819, 5817, 5818, it’s all in the same family.

B: Piece of Germanium. Look how soft it is. It's soft as a grape. Now, F is sort of interesting because F is a big old 1N4001 family which doesn’t leak very much. It’s not high conductance, it doesn’t have a good slope. Here’s a good slope, but it’s a healthy old rectifier. Here’s a good slope, L. What is L? L is a 2N3904, base emitter junction. That is one of the steepest curves; it’s just about theoretical, and is almost as good, but that’s a LM3046, which is a much smaller device.

What make is K? Oh, LM194; that’s an even bigger device. So there’s a very nice clamp if you need a clamp; it’s about $2.00 per clamp. You wouldn’t normally waste your money. Whereas, L is very steep, M is pretty shallow, M is the collector base junction of the 2N3904. So the collector-base junction is really inferior at having a poor slope, and the base emitter junction is very steep; it has a very good slope. So this is one of the things I like, every time I could find my book, I can always find this information. It’s never going to go away. But I can always find it. It’s always useful to publish some things that you can find later.

What if you have large signals? If you have plus or minus one volt, you can protect it with clamp diodes to ground, but for plus or minus 10 volts, or five volts, you don’t want to fool around with that. So you clamp it against the supply. What diode do you need? Like if you’re trying to go real fast, the 1N914 might be one picofarad; it might be appropriate. How much blast proofing do you need? You have to engineer it. There’s no simple answer. You could put low leakage diodes with 10K, 10K, 10K; low leakage, not much delay, or you might put a meg, a meg, a meg. It’s not a big deal. There are many things you can do. So, what ”R” values? Whatever you need, you have to engineer it, 1K, 10K, a meg. Why would we put two 10K resistors in series? If you blast this with ESD sparks, you’re walking across the rug, and you reach over and you touch the input to your little amplifier, then you buy a new amplifier because you killed it. Well, to avoid that, you could put 10K in series with 10K. And if you put a couple thousand volts across 10K these days, 10K tends to break down across its spirals because most resistors these days are spiral-cut with thin-film, thick-film resistors. You used to be able to buy, for a penny, 10K Allen Bradley quarter watt, or half watt. You put a couple of them in there and they do not break down. And they can survive large KV without sending through huge shoot-through currents.

Now, I saw a mailing recently from a bunch of very wild and crazy guys in Michigan who are really very wise about audio. And let’s say we have a high-power audio amplifier, and we do this actually sometimes. We take this audio amplifier like the old LM12 or the LM2876, or all these high-powered audio amplifiers. And we take the screws in the heat sink and we loosen them until the op amp goes right past 200 degrees C. The op amp turns itself off to protect itself. The op amp is well protected, but the load, it goes brupt, brupt, brupt and might not be protected because when you turn the thing off, you might have a woofer running at, oh, 3 amperes. You turn off the op amp and the woofer draws a three-amperes right through the tweeter and wrecks the tweeter. So the point is that a high-powered amplifier may protect the tweeter because it don't turn off, and a medium-power amplifier might damage the tweeter because it turns off and lets the woofer beat the heck out of the tweeter. Now, I think you got a chance in this situation, and I can’t prove it — by putting a clamp to the plus supply. And we clamp to the minus supply with a little diode, and I don’t want to tell you what kind, but maybe a — you wouldn’t need a fast Schottky — a 1N4001, 1N4002 ought to do this job, although I’m not going to take my tweeters and try it. My amplifier doesn’t turn off because it’s vacuum tubes, and it works. And living in San Francisco, it does not waste energy; it just keeps my house warm. So I don’t have a problem with this.

Q A couple of by-passing. Bob must work for a cost-effective company because he wants to use one bypass cap between the plus and minus rails instead of two, one from the plus rail to ground and one from ground to the minus rail.

Oh, I never said that, nope. People have asked me, why don’t I just put one capacitor from the plus rail to the minus? There may be cases where that’s a good idea; I can’t name one. If you try it and it’s okay, you have my permission to try it, but I don’t think I’m going to recommend it. I think you’re better off with one bypass to each rail from ground. In most cases, I think it will work much better. There might be cases where it’s not much better, but I don’t recommend that. I think you’ll find it’s not a good solution.

Q Okay. Martin clarified his ferrite question. He wants to know if he can use a ferrite to keep the noise from the switching power supply out of an analog linear circuit for the power.

In some cases, I think he’s right; you could do that. In other cases, it depends upon how low a noise you need. If -- if he only needs an improvement of 5dB, and the ferrite gives him 10dB, he should go away happy.

I just published an article. This engineer should go to the recent ”What’s all this Ripple Rejection Stuff, Part III"? And I will tell you where to find the darn thing. Go to www.national.com/rap and we show several applications where you can use an amplifier to get that noise down possibly a lot better than a ferrite. It depends on the frequency. Every application like that, every case is different. You go to ED Columns, and you go down just about a half inch down in the List of Columns, and it’s right there. Oh, I should write the name of it: "Ripple Rejection Part III." You can read "Ripple Rejection Part I and II," which are not — Part II isn’t that bad. And Part III gives more results, and that might be useful because if you need a lot of ripple rejection improvement, I can’t tell from this distance whether you have a chance with a ferrite. It depends on the frequency; it depends on the ferrite. Go ahead and try it because if it don't work, you know it doesn’t work. And if it does work, you’re done

Q What is a runt pulse?

A runt pulse is a very small pulse, smaller than expected. Like you’re expecting a 10 MHz clock, which would be 50 nanoseconds per cycle. If you then have a 5-nanosecond pulse and that’s a runt pulse, and many systems can’t handle that. So, runt pulses do happen. But this guy who asked, “What is the LM6762 doing giving a runt pulse?” We do not have enough information to answer that today. But if you tell us more about it, we’ll try to answer it later.

Quick and Dirty Piezo Preamp
my.execpc.com/0B/CC/fdeck/bass/quickand.htm
Lessons In Electric Circuits -- Volume III (Semiconductors) - Chapter 6
www.faqs.org/docs/electric/Semi/SEMI_6.html
preamp.gif (GIF Image, 384x240 pixels)
www.till.com/articles/GuitarPreamp/images/preamp.g...
Electronics Experiments: Adjustable Duty-Cycle Oscillator
www.elexp.com/t_oscill.htm

Adjustable Duty-Cycle Oscillator

In the study of electronics, the concept of duty-cycle pops up in various places such as digital circuits, one-shots, switching regulators, and D/A converters to mention a few. Lab experiments to examine duty-cycle usually require two parts: a square-wave oscillator driving a monostable multivibrator (one shot). A common circuit involves two 555 chips and a bunch of resistors and capacitors for each chip. Also, the RC time constant associated with the capacitor coupling the two 555s is critical.

In contrast, the circuit shown in Figure 1 can be built with a single IC, two capacitors, three resistors, two trim-pots, and a diode. The component values and time-constants are not critical. And with this simple circuit, here is what you can demonstrate:

  • What is hysteresis
  • What is a Schmitt-trigger input
  • How can hysteresis be used to build a square-wave oscillator
  • What is duty cycle
  • How do you adjust duty-cycle to different values
  • How does duty-cycle relate to DC value
  • What is a low-pass filter
  • How does filter cut-off relate to square-wave frequency
  • How does filter time-constant relate to speed of response to changing duty-cycle

Figure 1

Of course, with such a simple circuit you would expect that there was some kind of trade-off. And you're right: this circuit changes frequency as you change duty-cycle. But even with that limitation, you can still demonstrate all the items listed above. And you can use this circuit as a lead-in to a follow-up experiment with a circuit that maintains constant frequency as you vary duty-cycle.

The key to the circuit is the CD4093 CMOS digital IC. It's a quad two-input NAND gate chip with Schmitt-trigger inputs. In an inverting configuration, driving the inputs high will force the output low, while driving the inputs low will force the output high. The value of the input voltage that causes the output to change is the switching-threshold. The switching-threshold on a Schmitt-trigger input is not fixed; it has one of two different values depending on whether the output is high or low. In the 4093, the input voltage to force the output low is higher than the input voltage that forces the output high (see Figure 2). The result is a hysteresis effect.

Figure 2

We all have experience with the property of hysteresis. It can be seen in an old-fashion oil-can, the kind with a long flexible spout on a semi-spherical can with a wide, flat bottom. You pick the can up with one hand: the spout between your fingers and your thumb on the bottom. As you press on the bottom of the can, nothing happens until there is enough pressure to "pop" the bottom in and a squirt of oil comes out. As you release the pressure, the bottom will "pop" back out at less pressure than it took to "pop" it in.

The way hysteresis leads to oscillation can be seen in an automobile with a loose "front end". As you turn the steering wheel, nothing happens at first. Then, at a certain point, the car will turn. As you turn the wheel back to "straighten out", again nothing happens until you get to a point where the car suddenly swerves the other way. The result is that, as you travel down the road, the car is swerving left and right. You can't get it to go in a straight line. In effect, you're oscillating.

In this circuit, let's assume that C1 is discharged, making the input of the IC low and causing its output to go high. The voltage on the high output is fed back to the input through R1, R2, D1 and R3. The resistors limit the current, so C1 charges up with a certain time-constant. When the Voltage on C1 reaches a certain point, call it V1, it will be high enough to force the output low. At that point C1 will start to discharge through R3 only, since D1 will be reverse-biased. When the Voltage on C1 drops to a certain point, call it V2, it will be low enough to force the output high again. The cycle then repeats, and we have made a square-wave oscillator. Note that it is necessary that V1 be a higher value than V2 so that there is a fixed amount of Voltage that C1 must charge and discharge to produce a cycle. Then by changing the resistance, the time needed to charge and discharge (and thereby the frequency) can be changed.

The square-wave output can be seen by placing the probe of a oscilloscope at output 'A'. We will define the "on-time" of the cycle to be when the output is high, and the "off-time" when the output is low. Duty-cycle is defined to be:

                   On-Time
Duty-Cycle = -----------------
On-Time + Off-Time

Since C1 discharges through R3 only, the "off-time" of the cycle is fixed. But C1 charges partly through the R1-R2 path, so adjusting the R2 trim-pot will vary the "on-time" and thereby vary the duty-cycle. Since the square-wave output goes from 0 to +12 Volts and back to 0, it can be thought of as an AC signal riding on top of a DC voltage. The value of the DC can determined from the duty-cycle by the relationship:

DC Voltage = (Duty-Cycle) x (High-Output Voltage)

where, in this case, the high-output voltage is 12 Volts. The square-wave output is fed through an R-C low-pass filter made up of R4, R5, and C2. The purpose of the filter is to "smooth-out" (or "integrate") the square-wave. In effect, it removes the AC signal and leaves only the DC Voltage on C2. the filtered voltage can be seen on output 'B'. Just how "smooth" the DC will appear (i.e. how much AC "ripple" will be seen) depends on the RC time-constant of the filter. The "cut-off" frequency (f0) of the filter is given by:

       1
f0 = -----
2pRC

Define N to be the ratio of the oscillator frequency (f) to f0 as follows: N=f/f0. Then the bigger N is, the smoother the DC will be, as will be seen by adjusting the R5 trim-pot. One note about using CMOS gates: don't leave any inputs "floating". Be sure to ground all unused inputs on the CD4093 chip.

So have some fun with this circuit. Play around with it and try different values for the resistors and capacitors. Try reversing the direction of D1 and see what happens. And see if you can think of some interesting applications for it. Maybe you can get it published in this newsletter.

Schaltregler Bauteilkunde, N-Kanal-MOSFET
www.sprut.de/electronic/switch/nkanal/nkanal.html
MicaCapacitorCode.jpg (JPEG Image, 794x772 pixels)
antiqueradio.org/art/MicaCapacitorCode.jpg
embedded

Gmail - [msp430] MSP430F169 ESD problem
mail.google.com/mail/?fs=1&tf=1&view=cv&search=all...
I can't answer you about the XT2 but I can provide some in-site on the
ESD problems.

You didn't mention what chip you were using or where the ESD is
suspected of entering. This information could help shape answers.

Then, a couple general rules of thumb:

Bypass capacitors - Use them. Currently we are using a 1u and a couple
.01u. This may be overkill but they are cheap. If you have to ask the
question if they are close enough, they are not close enough. Move them
closer. Pay close attention to how they connect to Vcc and Vss.

Four Layer Boards - Much much better than two layer boards. One layer
should be a ground plane. NO CUTS!!! Do not be tempted to snake that
trace across the ground plane. A ground plane is just that, a ground
plane. After finishing the board layout take a look at the ground
plane. Are there any cuts in it?

Crystal Circuit -- Treat it like a newborn child. Protect it, keep
everything away from it. It is sensitive, put a good ground trace
around it. Double check the capacitance on it as well.

ESD protection -- High speed filters on any line leaving the board. In
most cases a simple ferrite bead and a 1000pF capacitor is all that's
needed. Then clamp the thing. We use some type of SMBJ part. Clamp it
higher than the expected signal lines but lower than the max voltage on
the pin.

General things: -- Do not run external micro pins to the real world.
Buffer them in some way. Do not connect interrupt pins directly to the
outside world, even with a buffer. This could lead to the external
interrupt taking over and not leaving time to do anything else. If you
must do this for some reason, put some sort of firmware debounce/filter
that kicks in if the interrupts start occurring to fast and the uC
doesn't have time to do anything else.
Gmail - [msp430] MSP430F2001 JTAG vs Spy-bi-wire?
mail.google.com/mail/?fs=1&tf=1&view=cv&search=all...
Spy-b-bi-wire only needs 3 wires. Ground, nRST, and TEST (Vcc
connection is optional). Using the "4-wire" JTAG needs at least 5
wires. (You need to connect the ground in addition to the 4 signal lines.)

The disadvantages of Spy-bi-wire are:

(1) It is slower than "4-wire" JTAG
(2) Some of the tool chains do not support it (yet).

I use the same 4-pin connector as what is in the eZ430. I also made a
cable to adapt that to other hardware tools as well. It works with F2001.
n.tecs Blog
www.ntecs.de/blog

Cheap Hardware Evaluation Boards

19. October, 2007 in Hardware by Michael Neumann

With the STM32 Primer you get an evaluation board driven by an 32-bit ARM® CortexT-M3 processor, including LCD color display, USB, and everything wrapped inside a beautiful case, for just $32. I think it’s nice for building small games, like those found in a Gameboy.

If you are into sensor-networks, you’d definitively like to get a Texas Instruments eZ430-RF2500, which is a MSP430 based (16-bit) evaluation kit, including USB and a 2,4 GHz RF transceiver, for just $49. The same excluding the RF transceiver costs just $10!!!

So if you want to start with embedded development pick one of them. Not only are they cheap, ARM® and MSP430 are also great architectures.

MSP430 Microcontrollers
www.mohrahit.in/find/msp430.html

TI-MSP430 MICROCONTROLLERS  

The MSP430 series from Texas Instruments is an ultra-low power family of RISC based microcontrollers. They are extremely cheap and have a fantastic support plus easy availability by way of samples from TI.

During our work in the development of the General Purpose Bluetooth Interface we had to code the Bluetooth L2CAP layer in software and run it on a microcontroller. We did a big survey of the available uCs and their specifications. After taking many factors into account and jumping from one uC to another, we finally settled for this the MSP430F149 which is one of the most easy to use and program microcontroller. These were the major advantages that we saw while using this chip:-

  • Had all the features that we needed
  • Easy availability :: Free samples from TI
  • Cheap cost ~$ 6 = Rs. 300/- (for MSP430F149, others are cheaper)
  • Free gcc compatible C compiler: MSP-GCC for both Windows and Linux
  • Free software: Insight or IAR C-SPY to burn the code into the uC Flash
  • Excellent user base and support (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/msp430)

The other options that we were considering were the ATMEL ATMega series of uCs. The factors which went against them were cost and availability in India. Also, only the high end uCs were available which were way beyond our budget. Apart from the MSP430F149, there are also a lot of other uCs in the same family which can be used for different applications and needs.

One word of CAUTION is that there no in-built support in the MSP430 series of uCs through which external memory can be attached to the chip. If you use these uCs and reach a point wherein the memory has to be extended, you will need to do all the bit-banging and addressing through the software which can cause unneccesary trouble.

Some Tips:

  • We used the dongle (or JTAG) available at http://www.olimex.com as the hardware for programming the uC.
  • A proto-board is also available at http://www.olimex.com but there seems to be some problem in it w.r.t. one of the crystals. They have attached some external capacitors with the Low Frequency crystal which cause problems in its operation. We removed them when made our PCB and programs which did not run on the Olimex board, worked peacefully with our board.
Labels: ti, mcu, 430

WHY MSP430?

History

The MSP430 family is a microcontroller family which is established for approx. 10 years. However, the primary usage was in measurement applications which are battery powered, e.g. intelligent sensors, with or without LCD-display. Peripherals were included with these applications in mind. In the beginnings, no UARTs were supported. And the development tools were not very attractive for those having smaller target quantities in mind. In short: The MSP430 was a good choice for OEM´s.

By end of the nineties the MSP430 family and its development tools have become attractive for a vast range of potential applications and also for low quantities, since the cost of developent tools has been lowered dramatically, especially due to the introduction of JTAG-based programming & debugging in flash-based devices. Alas, competitors in the low budget range already control these low budget markets, especially Microchip (PIC) and later Atmel (AVR). Of course, the oldmobile under the 8-bit controllers, the 8051-family may be considered a part of these low-budget markets.

Changeover Cons

Given this constellation, it is very difficult for the MSP430 family to raise its market potential, despite its significant better properties in all relevant issues. Of course, this is due to present usage of these competitor products and corresponding development tools. Further, the time which was spent in learning a new architecture is considerable (for a quick overview of MSP points of differences, look at Architectural specifics). And last but not least, the software pool of these products is immense. But the fact of common usage of C lowers this as a factor of keeping "old" products. The only problem is the conversion of low level peripheral related modules to new modules. This site will help you to establish such a conversion. See SW-(re)sources.

Changeover Pros

For medium to bigger projects, there is an economical argument to switch over to MSP430, when current targets are 8051, PIC or AVR. The creation of software will be less error-prone and provides a better overview when MSP430 is targeted.

• An example of less susceptibility to software errors: the 16-bit architecture provides single transfer of up to 16 bit memory or peripheral values to registers and vice versa. This allows for variable updating in interrupt routines without the need to temporarily disable interrupts when reading such values in the main program. Assembler programmers traditionally are aware of this problem and mostly do not forget to insert di & ei instructions (or whatever these mnemonics are named). C-programmers however often forget these pitfalls. They firstly must study the macro names of their compiler which takes care for these interrupt enables & disables, and secondly: they must be applied.

• Why a better overview? This is due to the linear memory organization of the MSP430 architecture. In the past, the Harvard architecture was praised as being economical because of providing separate address spaces for code and data. Practically, this limits the comfortability of maintaining (high-level) programs, especially when more than one data space is available (PIC: RAM-banks, 8051: internal & external data memory). This affects maintainability, portability and reusability of programs & modules. This topic is extensively explained here. At this point it should be understood that long term effects are clearly gained when switching over from 8 bit to 16 bits with linear address space. Note that many 16 bit processors still have separate code & data spaces.

For the sake of completeness, it should be noted here that several good architectures exists which support linear memory and good code utizilation. Bigger projects, especially when program code is beyond 60KB are managed better with e.g.
- ARM family of controllers & cores (industry standard, licensed by ARM);
- HC12 family of controllers (Motorola, see also HC12WEB-page).

Development kits

The development kits of TI represent a clear argument to changeover to this controller family. When an entry to any controller right from the start shall be made, the kits will provide best price/performance ratio available on the market. More information here. Hobbyists who consider using these kits should read the tips found here.

Architectural specifics compared to common micros

• The port registers' direction (in resp. output) are commonly specified by data direction registers. With MSP430, a "1" represents an output. Most controllers bypass the port usage automatically, when an associated peripheral (e.g. UART) is activated. The MSP430 requires the programmer to specify this explicitly in a register. By default, all shared port/peripheral pins are selected to port usage.

• The MSP430 runs on an internal RC-based clock of approx. 800 kHz when started. For many applications, this isn´t precise enough. A certain sequence of commands must be carried out in order to select an external crystal clock up to 8 MHz. The sequence of commands is quite crucial, since a mechanism exists which let the MSP430 automatically switch back to the internal RC-clock when the external clock is lacking. An associated error flag must be reset prior to switching over to the external clock. A recommended sequence of C-statements is given in the SW-resources page.

Accurate clocks are also possible without HF-Crystals. A simple 32768Hz crystal can be utilized as a time reference. Software can adjust the RC oscillator in order to achieve a sufficient degree of accuracy for most applications.

• There is no bit addressabe RAM- or peripheral space, contrary to 8051, PIC and AVR. This is a matter of getting used with. Those who want to work with single bits may define bit fields in structures, which are associated with corresponding peripheral addresses.

However, this lack does not necessarily mean that the MSP is not effective with bit manipulation. The assembler language supports bit test instructions which tests bits against a mask (e.g. test if bit7 is set using the mask 0x80).  This way also multiple bits can be tested in one instruction.

The instruction set has some peculiarities. Any basic knowledge about this can help optimize designs right from the hardware design start of a project. Regarding the hardware, one should try to assign port pins that must be accessible as single bits to bits 0....3 of any port. This will facilitate immediate mode with short constants, saving machine cycles and code space. The same applies to software flag bits.

To understand this - and also to better understand the assembler -, one must consider the addressing scheme of the CPU, which is described in the MSP430 family user's guide (chapter "RISC 16-Bit CPU").
Each instruction has its opcode packed in the first word, together with addressing/operand information bits. There exists 7 addressing modes, but only 2 bits seem to decode this for the source field. Further, 4 destination addressing modes are selectable. However, only 1 bit seems to decode this. Compare with the scheme for 2-operand instructions given here (other schemes have longer opcodes):


(S/D-Reg = source/destination register 0...16; As/d = source/dest. addressing mode; B/W = byte/word)

The crux lies in the register bank decoding for source operand and destination operand. There are 16 registers, of which 12 are general purpose. When one of the first four registers are targeted in source or destination field, another addressing mode is activied. E.g. Register 0 is the PC (Program Counter). For example, targeting R0 with indirect register autoincrement mode will inherently do immediate addressing! It is important to realize this: the user writes assembler with the common notation for immediate addressing (or the C-compiler does so), but actually an indirect register access is used.

Another example: when absolute addressing is selected, the assembler will use indirect indexed register addressing mode with R2. R2 actually contains the STATUS flags, but in such operation, it will read as zero, so the final target address simply equals the index.

Then finally an example related to immediate addressing with short constants. When the assembler sees immediate addressing (for constant setting, adds/subtracts and bit set/reset masks), with constants -1, 0, 1, 2, 4 or 8, it will target R2 or R3. Together with the "As" bit field setting, the appropriate constant is inserted instead of an extra operand word. This implies that R3 cannot be used as a register for addressing purposes. Of course, the register exists and it can be modified and read from (as is also the case with all special purpose registers). Please note that the machine cycles used for these instructions using short constants is not explicitly specified in the documentation.

Up to now all but R1 are used as special cases. R1 actually isn't a special case: R1 is the stack pointer. So indirect or indexed R1 operations facilitate stack relative addressing (which is not listed as one of the 7 addressing modes in the documentation).

Finally a note to those who are interested in technical details: indirect register addressing (with or without autoincrement) is possible only in the source operand. The destination can be targeted indirectly only via the indexed addressing mode, which will always "consume" an extra instruction word: The index, mostly 0. In this case, 0 is not a short constant, because the R2/R3 constant technique is not subject when another register which actually holds a pointer value is given as the destination field.

What micros do you actually like to work with? | Comp.Arch.Embedded | EmbeddedRelated.com
www.embeddedrelated.com/usenet/embedded/show/57680...
I really like ARM chips. Their architecture is fairly clean and simple
to understand. One thing I really like about them is the fact that they
have conditional instruction execution. It can make assembly code
easier to read and the compiler writers job a bit easier. These would
be my 32-bit MCU of choice. I also like the 68K architecture which IMHO
was one of the best CISC archs.

For 16-bit/8-bit arena, I am not too sure. I have played with the PIC,
8051 and the MSP430. It is very difficult to decide. Another big player
is the AVR, which I personally have not played with. The PIC was
alright to program simple applications in assembly and the like (low
current too, I was measuring it at ~1 or 2mA full speed 4Mhz 16F628 @
5V). But I wanted to try my hand at HLL programming on an MCU. Now, I
had a firm enough knowledge of the underlying mechanics and the ways C
compilers typically implement certain constructs to know that it would
not map on to the architecture to well and would make the sometimes
necessary task of assembly level debugging a real pain. The 8051 fared
better w.r.t C code, but the chip needs quite a bit of power and
external support components and needs a large crystal for decent
performance (of course, you can get single cycle cores).

The MSP430 on the other hand has a GNU compiler collection compiler
readily available. An added plus is that writing startup code is
unnecessary. Just write your C code and you are ready to go. It also
makes for easy and readable assembly code (quite simple to understand).
I haven't really done anything practical with the MSP430 yet, so I
can't give you an idea of how the chip worked for me. Also the MSP430
and the ARM have JTAG debug support, for which you only need very low
cost debug hardware (a 'WIGGLER' in the ARM case). The 8051 and the PIC
on the other hand, will need the use of simulators (or external ICE's).




Other mentions: MAXQ, Freescale's HC(S)08/12 (Freescale makes reputable
chips as well)
Labels: mcu
What micros do you actually like to work with? | Comp.Arch.Embedded | EmbeddedRelated.com
www.embeddedrelated.com/usenet/embedded/show/57680...
I'll toss my hat in for the AVR micros, mostly because they seem to have
the best C compiler out there. It seems to be very efficient so I
don't feel so bad when not writing in asm. They also have some very
powerful hobbiest parts that fit into DIP packages. I did some work
with Motorola 68HC11 stuff for awhile, but then I remembered that I
don't like pain.
Labels: mcu
What micros do you actually like to work with? | Comp.Arch.Embedded | EmbeddedRelated.com
www.embeddedrelated.com/usenet/embedded/show/57680...
> Or, to put it another way, which micros cause you the least grief? And
> what about those makes them favorites?
>
> I ask because I'm always interested in trying new families, especially
> ones that come well recommended.
>

Hello Mike,

I'll monitor this thread carefully, as I too like to try new families.
Bring in the cheap dev kits! :D

My call:
- TI MSP430, for its very clean, lightweight architecture.
- Zilog Z8 Encore, once you get past a few quirks caused by upward
compatibility with the old Z8s and a sometimes messy documentation. It's
quite powerful in its own right, has plenty of peripherals, and doesn't
cost much.

I would like to try the Dallas Semi MAXQ at some point, as its
architecture is quite original and actually very clever. Everything is
register-write triggered! My only real lament is the hardware stack
(whine whine -- ANS Forth needs 64 words of program stack, not bloody 16
-- whine some more), but it's not a fundamental architecture flaw, and
it could be easily changed in future implementations.

I haven't worked enough with ARMs to emit an opinion. I dislike PICs
with a passion, and I have never felt at home with AVRs (sorry Ulf). I'm
having less and less interest in wasting time finding ways around 8051s'
quirks, although in the right place some derivatives can be really powerful.

Oh, and a side note: I code in assembly, as I like to be on the bare
CPU, and I evaluate MCUs in this respect. It's not everyone's cup of tea
though...
Labels: mcu

pyBSL

Software for the bootstrap loader. Works with Flash devices (MSP430F1xx and F4xx): erase and download new software or upload RAM or Flash data from the device back to the PC.

Features:

  • loads TI-Text, Intel-hex and ELF files
  • download to Flash and/or RAM, erase, verify
  • reset and wait for keypress (to run a device directly from the port power)
  • load addres into R0/PC and run
  • password file can be any datafile, e.g. the one used to program the device in an earlier session
  • upload a memory block MSP->PC (output as binary data or hex dump)
  • download a program, execute it, resynchronize and uplaod results. (for testing and calibration)
  • written in Python, runs on Win32, BSD, Linux (and other POSIX compatible systems) (and Jython)
  • use per command line, or in a Python script
  • downloadable replacement MSP430-BSLs, which also allows higher baudrates.
Labels: 430, mcu, ti

MSP430 DIP Programmer

Using the TI ez430

The ez430 is great if you want to use the small target boards TI sells, but the lack of information for the true beginner is frustrating when trying to move to programming external chips, and the amount of technical info from Texas Instruments is daunting.

In this brief article I hope to show how to get up and running with those DIP samples you ordered from TI using the ez430. I'll be working with the same microcontroller unit (MCU) as on the ez430 target board, namely the MSP430F2013.  Any MSP430x2xx will work with the same method, and as far as I know the entire MSP430 line uses the same programming connections.  If you use a package other than a dual in-line package (DIP or DIL) or a device other than the MSP430x2xx then you'll need to refer to the datasheet for  the device to find the appropriate pin locations.


MSP430 MCU

ez430


Boards

 

Programming an MSP430 requires only 4 wires, including the Vcc and Vss connections. The schematic below should help. These are the only connections you need to download a program to the MCU.

 

I've built two programming boards. The first uses a small breadboard, ZIF socket, and 4 wires from an old IDE cable with the 4 pin socket soldered to one end. The Zero Insertion Force socket just saves on effort when moving the MCU around.

 
The second uses a DIP socket from Mill-Max and some pins I had laying around, as well as some other components. I've wire wrapped most of the connections. It was only necessary to solder the 4 pin socket. Basically it's a proto-board without the oscillator. See
here for the proto board schematic.

 
Table 2-2 of TI document slau144c (the MSP430x2xx Users Guide) shows the unused pin terminations. This is important for your project board, but not the programming. The MCU won't run your program unless you pull the RST pin high using the 47k resistor.

 
Another note on pin sockets. When you connect the ez430 pins to your 4 pin socket be sure that the Vcc connection is correct. You can verify this by looking at the schematic in the ez430 Users Manual. Notice that R10 is attached to Vcc on the ez430 side. You should be able to follow the lead on the board back to the nearest connector pin which is pin 1 of the connector.

 
As an aside, you could build the 4 wire programming connection, called Spy-Bi-Wire, into your final application, and you wouldn't have to remove the chip once it's installed. If you decide to do it that way, then you can power the MCU from your application's 3V power source and just connect pins 2 and 3 (see J1) on the USB programmer to your MCU.

 

Programming

 Another programming resource to learn to use the msp430 can be found at this website .

 

Labels: 430, TI, MCU
MSPFET - MSP430 flash programming utility
kurt.on.ufanet.ru/

MSPFET - FREE MSP430 flash programming utility

Supports full range of Texas Instruments flash-based MSP430 mixed-signal MCU's.

Hardware support - FET (flash emulation tool) or BSL (bootstrap loader).

Try our new Fusee - multy-functional, easy to use and low cost programming adapter.


Click on image to enlarge

  • 100% FREE;
  • Uses JTAG or BSL interface for programming;
  • Loads memory dump as HEX;
  • Supports BIN, TI TXT, HEX file formats;
  • Fuse blow feature (works only with Fusee adapter or TIUSB)
  • Tiny (less than 100Kb), does not require installation;
  • Command line support, Drag'n'Drop;
  • Operating Systems: Windows 95, 98, Me, 2000, XP.
Current version: MspFet_16007_devel.zipupdated 26 Feb 2006
Labels: 430, ti, mcu
Google Groups: alt.engineering.electrical
groups.google.co.uk/group/alt.engineering.electric...
I believe 2N4391, 2N4392 & 2N4393 were very popular FET's
in industrial equipment.  They should cross to SK or ECG
and be readily available.
Google Groups: alt.engineering.electrical
groups.google.co.uk/group/alt.engineering.electric...

2N7000 is cheap (US0.10 in quantity) and ubiquitous. Specs are not
so impressive.

XXXX3055 seems to be popular for power N-channel, kind of a marketing ploy
giving it a number like that but it seems a fine device. Eg. Motorola.

The Ultimate Spring Reverb Recovery Amp
members.tripod.com/~roymal/ultimate.htm
composite op amp that uses a single JFET for its input stage
High impedance - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_impedance
One solution is to add an enable input to a MUX. When the enable is active, the output is selected from one of the inputs. When the enable is not active, then the output is Z.
Pulse Width Modulation
www.cpemma.co.uk/pwm.html
An LDmicro Tutorial
cq.cx/ladder-tutorial.pl
Microcontroller Interfacing
cq.cx/interface.pl
2x16 LCD and 4x4 keypad example
www.serasidis.gr/circuits/lcd_keys/lcd_keys.htm
A very simple circuit to experiment with AT90S2313, 2x16 LCD display and 4x4 keypad.
Using a Keypad and LCD Display with the MAXQ2000 - Maxim/Dallas
www.maxim-ic.com/appnotes.cfm/appnote_number/3414

Using a Keypad and LCD Display with the MAXQ2000

Embedded systems which require user interaction must interface with devices that accept user input (such as a keypad, bar code reader or smart card acceptor) as well as devices that display information to the user (such as LED or LCD displays). This application note, using the MAXQ2000 microcontroller, covers the use of two such typical devices - a 4x4 switch keypad and an LCD display.
Mikrokontrolleria valkkaamassa - sfnet.harrastus.elektroniikka | Google Groups
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Miksi 8-bittinen prosessori on huono valinta moniajoon?

Ongelma *ei* ole tilanvaihdon järjestäminen, vaan osoitearitmetiikka.
Osoitteen laskenta on kahdeksanbittisissä vehkeissä aina pitkähkö prosessi.
Asian varmistamiseksi voi katsoa C-kielen base->component -tyyppisestä
rakenteesta kääntynyttä koodia.

Moniajettavassa koodissa kukin säie (tehtävä, prosessi, task jne) tarvitsee
identiteettinsä säilyttämiseen vähintään oman pinon. Tämä on hankalaa
8051-tyyppisissä prosessoreissa: pino on sisäisessä muistissa, joka loppuu
hyvin pian kesken, kun sitä joutuu jakamaan kaikkien säikeiden kesken.
Tiedän yhden 8051 -moniajojärjestelmän, joka rahtaa koko pinon ulkoiseen
muistiin ja toisen sisään aina tilanvaihdon yhteydessä (IAR:n O'Tool).

Tämän lisäksi kaikki yhteisessä käytössä olevat aliohjelmat joutuvat
pitämään työtilansa joko pinossa tai säikeen mukaan valitussa
muistitietueessa. Puuha onnistuu melko helposti, jos prosessorilla on
käytettävissä rekisteri, jota voi helposti käyttää kantarekisterinä.
Esimerkkinä käy 8086 -perheen rekisteri bx. Rekisterin avulla voi osoittaa
tietuetta, jossa olevaa komponenttia voi vielä indeksoida si- tai
di-rekisterillä. Rekisterirakenteen kannalta minimiprosessori, jolla moniajo
sujuu mukavasti, on 8086 tai 6809 perillisineen.

Miksi AVR ei oikein käy: siinähän on kolme kantarekisteriksi kelpaavaa (X,
Y, Z)?

AVR on rekisterirakenteeltaan RISC -kone: rekistereitä on status + 32
työrekisteriä. Tilanvaihto menee työlääksi: 33 rekisteriä ulos ja toiset 33
sisään. Keskeytyksen palvelussa voidaan ottaa toinen lähestymistapa:
talletetaan vain ne rekisterit, joita keskeytys käyttää - keskeytyksen
palvelu ei saa olla niin työläs, että kaikki tarvitaan.

Labels: MCU
Mikrokontrolleria valkkaamassa - sfnet.harrastus.elektroniikka | Google Groups
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MSP430 on turmellut merkittävän osan PDP:n säännöllisestä arkkitehtuurista:
PDP:ssä on 8 rekisteriä, joista yksi on ohjelmalaskuri (r7, pc) ja toinen
pinon osoitin (r6, sp). Kaikki käskyt, joissa on muistiosoitus, käyttävät
reksitereitä samalla tavalla kaikissa muistioperandeissa.

MSP430:ssa on 16 rekisteriä, joissa on RISC -koneesta napattu idea tuottaa
tiettyjen rekisterien tietyillä osoitetavoilla pieniä vakioita (-1, 0, 1, 2
jne). Kun rekistereitä on enemmän kuin PDP:ssä, ei kaikissa paikoissa voi
käyttää enää kaikkia osoitetapoja symmetrisesti (destination-operandilla on
rajoitetut osoitetavat). Lisäksi osa PDP:n osoitetavoista puuttuu kokonaan
(esim. auto-decrement).

Tämä on yksinään riittävä syy, että PDP:n tail-endin kopiointi ja pieni
muuttaminen ei riitä.

Been there, done that.

Labels: mcu
Mikrokontrolleria valkkaamassa - sfnet.harrastus.elektroniikka | Google Groups
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>Itse olen tehnyt sovelluksia Atmelin 51 tyypin ja AVR tyypin kontrollereille
>ja voin kertoa kokemuksesta, että ongelmia niillä 51 sarjan laitteilla on
>moninkertaisesti vähemmän kuin AVR laitteilla. Ja nyt ei puhuta lainkaan
>koodin virheistä vaan sähköisestä toimivuudesta esim. siitä kuinka varmasti
>CPU käynnistyy kun virta tulee päälle. Esim. pienet 8 jalkaiset AVR:tä ei
>välttämättä starttaa lainkaan.

Joo, tämä on valitettavasti totta. Samoin tuntuu, että nuo avr:rät
(tarkoittaa siis tässä lähinnä 2313 ja 8535 malleja) tuntuvat
menettavan muistinsa hyvin helposti käsittelyn aikana eli käytännössä
siirrettäessä ohjelmointilaitteesta piirikortille. Flash menee ihan
sekaisin, uudelleenflashauksen jälkeen toimii normaalisti, mutta ei
niitä enää uskalla mihinkään vakavampaan käyttää. Samoja ilmiöitä olen
havainnut kortteja käsitellessä, esd-suojauksista huolimatta.

ulkoisen reset-piirin käyttö on joka tapauksessa "must" noitten
avr:rien kanssa.

vanhan prosessorityypin käytössä on etunsa, lastentauteja lienee
8031-sarjasta turha hakea. Samoin huomasin että vanha rca1802 cosmac
(joka on siis todella vanha, jo 70-luvun puolivälistä, ja hidas cmos-
prosessori) elää uutta renesanssia dallasin valmistamana, nyt tyypin
kuvaukseksi on vain vaihtunut "high reliability processor", ilmailu ja
avaruuskäyttöön näkyvät noita myyvän.

t: Jari Lehtinen

Mikrokontrolleria valkkaamassa - sfnet.harrastus.elektroniikka | Google Groups
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Tätä juuri ajoin takaa. Kasibittisen käyttäminen tuohon on aika
turhaa hommaa, koska hyvänkin ratkaisun saa lähes samaan hintaan.
Kasibittisten yläpäästä poimittu ATmega ja esimerkiksi ARM7-
ytimellä varustetut prosessorit ovat samassa hintaluokassa.

Kaikkeahan voi tehdä. Tiedän kaverin, joka rakensi kahdestatoista
8031:stä moniprosessorijärjestelmän. Kaikki prosessorit pääsivät
samoihin muisteihin käsiksi, kun niillä oli yhden kellojakson
erotus keskenään...

Labels: mcu
Mikrokontrolleria valkkaamassa - sfnet.harrastus.elektroniikka | Google Groups
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Ei se prosessin vaihtaminen ainakaan 51:ssä ole hankalaa, kun se osaa
vaihtaa rekisteripankkia suoraan. Itse asiassa sellaisella tuo käy kenties
nopeammin kuin 32-bittisillä vehkeillä.

Eihän tuon prosessin vaihtaminen nyt kovin ihmeellinen operaatio voi olla.
Tallennetaan rekisterit ja vaihdetaan pinoa. Asiasta selviytyy sitä
huonommin mitä useampia rekistereitä on tallennettavana. Mutta ihan sama
ongelma on keskeytyksissäkin. Jokainen keskeytys aliohjelma on myös
prosessin vaihtavaa koodia ja niihinhän noita 8-bittisiä juuri enimmäkseen
käytetään.

Labels: mcu
Mikrokontrolleria valkkaamassa - sfnet.harrastus.elektroniikka | Google Groups
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Mikähän siinä prosessin vaihtamisessa niin hankalaa on,
rekisterit pinoon, pino-osoitin uuden prosessin pinoon ja
rekisterit ml. program counter pinosta ?

Olen itse ollut tekemässä muutamaakin erilaista  8 bitin
vehkeillä toimivaa moniajokäyttistä sekä myös käyttänyt
valmiita käyttiksiä. Moniajava ydin ajastin- ja I/O-palveluineen
on näissä ollut kooltaan 2-16 kB, joten 64 kB osoiteavaruudesta
jää vielä hyvin tilaa varsinaisen sovelluksen käyttöön. Mikro-
kontrolleri, jossa on 8 kB sisäistä ohjelmamuistia, on ihan käypä
alusta tuollaiselle yksinkertaiselle ytimelle. Toki ylimääräiset
palvelut voi riisua pois ja muutenkin on selvää että käyttis konfataan
sovelluksen mukaiseksi, eli muistia ei hukata 50 timeriin jos 5
riittää. Mutta varsinainen moniajo ja taskinvaihto vaikka
kellokeskeytyksen ohjaamana ei montaa sataa tavua vie.

Kyllä noita kasibittisiä vehkeitä on moniajettu ihan yllättävänkin
tutuissa käyttökohteissa ja tullaan varmaan vielä jatkossakin
käyttämään. Eivät kaikki käyttökohteet vaadi muutamassa
mikrosekunnissa tapahtuvaa taskinvaihtoa, kymmenien MIPS:ien
tehoa tai muistinsuojauksia.

Labels: mcu
Mikrokontrolleria valkkaamassa - sfnet.harrastus.elektroniikka | Google Groups
groups.google.fi/group/sfnet.harrastus.elektroniik...
No jaa.  En minäkään "oikeaa" käyttöjärjestelmää 8-bittiseen lähtisi
tunkemaan, mutta moniajoa olen kyllä käyttänyt menestyksekkäästi jo
6502:ssa ja myöhemmin 68HC11:ssä.  Prosessin vaihtaminen ei montaa
käskyä vaadi (rekisterit talteen, uusi pino alle ja rekisterit pinosta)
ja moniajon avulla sulautetun järjestelmän tehtävät on helppo pilkkoa
itsenäisiksi osiksi (esim. mittaus, käyttöliittymä, massamuistin hallinta),
jolloin softa yksinkertaistuu ja selkeytyy.
Labels: mcu
PLA < Main < Reprap
reprap.org/bin/view/Main/PLA

A crude form of PLA can be produced by simply heating powdered lactic acid with powdered stannous chloride - commonly used in pottery glazes - in a test tube. Extracting it from the test tube afterwards is left as an excercise for the diligent student.

See papers in footnote for further details.

MSPFET - MSP430 flash programming utility
kurt.on.ufanet.ru/page_docs_en.htm

FET (Flash Emulation Tool) programming adapter

Bidirectional converter between TTL levels from PC's parallel port and MCU's JTAG interface. The MSP430 family supports in-circuit programming of flash memory via the JTAG port, available on all MSP430 devices. All existing IDE's for MSP430 MCU support in-circuit debugging and emulation of application program in target device by means of JTAG interface. Very useful and convenient thing during software development and debugging. Also it can be used for in-field program updates if security fuse is not blown. You can buy it from Texas Instruments distributors or third-party developers or make your own using, for example, see MSP430-JTAG schematic. Does not support fuse blowing.


BSL (BootStrap Loader) programming adapter

The MSP430 bootstrap loader (BSL) enables users to communicate with embedded memory in the MSP430 microcontroller during the prototyping phase, final production, and in service. Both the programmable memory (flash memory) and the data memory (RAM) can be modified as required. The commonly used UART protocol with RS232 interfacing is supported, allowing flexible use of both hardware and software. To use the bootstrap loader, a specific BSL entry sequence has to be applied to specific device pins. An added sequence of commands initiates the desired function. A boot loading session can be exited by continuing operation at a defined user program address, or by the reset condition. Access to the MSP430 memory via the bootstrap loader is protected against misuse by a user-defined password. Does not support fuse blowing. For more information refer to Application Report SLAA096 - Application of Bootstrap Loader in MSP430.

TI EZ430 in Linux with IAR Kickstart
www.msp430.ubi.pt/blog/index.php/2007/12/03/ti-ez4...
Travis Goodspeed in his blog posted a great tutorial on how to install a compile code for the ez430 in Linux under wine, a virtual machine for this operating systems. You could try this in your Ubuntu, Debian, RedHat or other Linux distribution.
Well sometimes low power is everything. I like the
MSP430 because you can get quite efficient execution on the sniff of a
half dead electron, especially with the 2xxx series and some of the
newer parts coming along. Actually for raw speed right now, at low cost,
I really like the PIC24H series, but there is still nothing quite as
good in the low power department as the MSP430. remember, the key to
fast execution on the MSP is efficient use of the registers, especially
the Constant generators. Look to use bits that align with the Cg values,
look to use registers whereever possible. this is far easier in asm than
C, since you have virtually no control over this in C, but in asm it
often pays to reserve registers for certain tasks. Just watch for the
old trap of sync problems, ie make sure registers used in foreground
can't get corrupted in an ISR. I like to reserve a couple of registers
just for use in isr's, then have a couple of general registers
(typically 3 which handles most circumstances) as generic temporary
stores for foreground use. This leaves 6 or 7 for dedicated use if that
is necessary, ie values that are read by an ISR then calculated on in
the foreground.
Gmail - [msp430] MSP430 Development software/computer choices
mail.google.com/mail/?fs=1&tf=1&view=cv&search=all...

You know, we decided to purchase an Eee PC to help out one of our customers
who purchased one to run CrossWorks on. That's really inexpensive, GBP 200
including VAT (tax at 17.5%) and import duty. We had it running in 30
minutes, programming an MSP430 over USB with a CrossConnect.
When/how to use Zener 5.1v diodes for protection - sci.electronics.basics | Google Groups
groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.basics/bro...
Really good idea to guard against ESD.  Also, you might want to add a
series resistor after the zener and the cap to limit the current
flowing into the pin in the event of overvoltage, like this (view in
fixed font or M$ Notepad):

|                             |
|                             |
|                    ___      |
|   o----o-----o----|___|-----o
|        |     |     1K       |
|       /-/   ---             |
|        ^    ---             | Atmel uC
|1N4733A |     | 100nF        |
|       ===   ===             |
|       GND   GND             |
|                             |
|                             |
|                             |
|                             |
|                             '----
|
|
(created by AACircuit v1.28.6 beta 04/19/05 www.tech-chat.de)

A zener-based protection scheme has benefits over diodes to each
supply rail.  The speed of the diode isn't significant -- in fact,
you're adding the 0.1uF cap in parallel with the diode.  And if
there's a positive-going spike, the charge will flow to the +5V rail
with the two diode scheme, which may make it exceed maximum spec for
the uC as well as other components, depending on trace inductance, the
ESR of the caps from the +5V supply to GND, and other considerations.
Also, you may end up with a situation where your power supply voltage
regulator may have its output at a greater voltage than its input,
which can be a disaster for certain regulators.

Now, you have to attend to the layout here either way, so try to have
a good, low inductance, low resistance path for the ESD charge to
travel without creating a spike on the GND lines.  But from a
beginner, hobbyist perspective, a zener/cap combination with a series
resistor is a great start to preventing your uC from getting smoked by
a 100pF cap namely the user) discharging a few KV of potential to GND
through your project.

"Cheapest MCU.." - 8052.COM - 8052.com Message Forum
www.8052.com/forum/read.phtml?id=28306
Hello Geeks
I saw somepeople asking for cheap ucontrollers, just login at MAXIM and search for their ucontrollers, which are fast a nd reliable, order samples (8 type, each 2 at a time), to program them(DS5000 series and DS87C420) get MTKbeta.zip from ftp.dalsemi.com and rig up ur own programmer/development brd
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