October 24th - November 1st, performance @ RRG
October 19th - 23rd, performance prep week
October 12th - 18th, maximum strength
weighted pullups weighted ringups max str bouldering dyno practice
October 5th - 11th, stamina
route pyramid boulder pyramid antagonist fingers leg curls maximum strength core
September 28th - October 4th, climbing endurance
4x4 maximum strength fingers
September 21st - 27th, climbing endurance
6x8 complex set
September 14th - 20th 4x4 maximum str fingers
September 7th - 13th, P90-X week 12
4x4
eg curls
finger antagonists
August 31st - September 6th, P90-X week 11, power
complex set
weighted pullups
August 24th - 30th, P90-X week 10, max strength max strength big muscles max strength bench press leg curls finger antagonists
Monday, August 24th intro and medium hang board workouts
summary volume - 2, intensity - 3
Tuesday, August 25th run 2 miles P90-X chest and back leg curls
summary volume - 3, intensity - 4
Wednesday, August 26th max strength bouldering - big muscles
Thursday, August 27th P90-X shoulders and arms finger antagonists
August 17th - 23rd, P90-X week 9, max strength max strength coremax strength fingersleg curls
finger antagonistsMonday, August 17th P90-X chest and back
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 5, went into oxygen debt towards the end of the workout and could not recover - nice
Tuesday, August 18th
max strength bouldering - great work on fingers
did the orange/black route - near my limit, felt great
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 4
Wednesday, August 19th
P90-X shoulders and arms
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Thursday, August 20th max strength bouldering took it a bit easier
Saturday, August 21st set new stuff on mini-roof did some hardish problems felt really heavy, ugh!
Summary did not feel good this week, did get in a great run on Sunday
August 10th - 16th, P90-X week 8, restorative
Monday, August 10th P90-X legs and back
Tuesday, August 11th jogged 1 mile metolius easy and medium fingerboard ab ripper-x
Thursday, August 12th fun gym session
Friday, August 13th yoga
Summary
This was for the most part a recovery week. Went to the beach on the weekend and swam a lot.
August 3rd - 9th, P90-X week 7, power
complex set - ring ups/campus ladders
weighted pullups
max str core
max str fingers - deadhangs
Monday, August 3rd
P90-X chest, shoulders, tris
leg curls
finger antagonists
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Tuesday, August 4th
max str bouldering
mostly just had fun, tried new problems
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 4
Wednesday, August 5th
P90-X bis and back
ab ripper x
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Thursday, August 6th
fun bouldering
dyno practice
max strength core - front levers, flags, knee ups
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Friday, August 7th
P90-X legs and back
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Sunday, August 9th
max strength bouldering
complex set - ring ups/campus ladders
weighted pullups
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 5
Summary
July 27th - August 2nd, P90-X week 6
maximum strength fingers - joints slightly sore
weighted pullups campus ladders
Monday, July 27th P90-X chest/shoulders/tris
summary volume - 3, intensity - 4
Tuesday, July 28th max strength bouldering
summary volume - 2, intensity - 3, felt like CRAP, still had not recovered from Saturday workout
Wednesday, July 29th P90-X bis/back
summary volume - 3, intensity - 4
Thursday, July 30th Yoga-X
summary volume - 3, intensity - 3
Friday, July 31st P90-X legs and back leg curls forearm antagonists
summary volume - 3, intensity - 3
Saturday, August 1st max strength bouldering static boulders campus ladders weighted pullups
summary volume - 3, intensity - 4
Summary volume - 17, intensity - 21, felt down for most of the week from the super hard workout on the previous Saturday, needed a bit lower volume and intensity, felt good at week end
July 20th - 26th, P90-X week 5
hypertrophy - finger rolls maximum strength fingers maximum strength core weighted pullups/ring ups - complex set
Monday, July 20th P90-X chest/shoulders/tris Ab Ripper X
summar volume - 3, intensity -3, feeling strong on all exercises
Tuesday, July 21st max out bouldering maximum strength core - flags and levers
summary volume - 4, intensity - 5
Wednesday, July 22nd P90-X back/biceps Ab Ripper X
summary summary - 3, intensity - 3
Thursday, July 23rd Yoga-X finger antagonist exercises
summary volume - 2, intensity - 2
Friday, July 24th P90-X Legs and back Ab Ripper X
summary volume - 3, intensity - 3
Saturday, July 25th max out bouldering complex set - weighted narrow grip pull-ups/campus lock off weighted wide grip pull-ups weighted overhand pull-ups
summary volume - 5, intensity - 5
Sunday, July 26th set a route weighted dead hangs
summary volume - 4, intensity - 4
Summary volume - 24, intensity - 25
July 13th - 19th
hypertrophy - finger rolls maximum strength fingers weighted ring ups/campus board maximum strength core
Tuesday bouldering hard pink route in lead cave P90-X legs and back
summary volume - 4, intensity - 4
Wednesday P90-X yoga
summary volume - 3, intensity - 2
Thursday max out bouldering
summary difficult to warm up, did not have a high energy level or a lot of power volume - 4, intensity - 3
Friday jog 1 mile
Saturday set a route weighted dead hangs - crimp - 20x4, 20x4; slope - one handx4, one handx4, open hand - 30x5, 30x5, pinch - 30x4, 30x4 leg curls - 8, 8
summary volume - 2, intensity - 2
Sunday dyno practice static boulder practice hyper gravity bouldering weighted ring ups - weighted pull ups, close grip overhand -
summary volume - 4, intensity - 4
July 6th - 12th, P90-X week 3
hypertrophy - finger rolls maximum strength fingers weighted pullups/campus board maximum strength core
Monday P90-X chest & back jog 1 mile
Tuesday P90-X plyometrics
Wednesday warm up work the V9 a few burns complex set - weighted pullups close grip overhand/campus lock offs campus problems P90-X shoulders & arms
Thursday jog 1 mile P90-X Yoga-X
Friday warm up work something hard but not too hard, send a weighted dead hangs - slopers, open hand, pinches, half crimp
P90-X Legs and Back
Saturday P90-X core synergistics maximum strength core
Sunday active rest - set some stuff
June 29th - July 5th, week 2 P90X
hypertrophy - finger rolls intro metolius hangboard workout maximum strength core
Monday, June 29th protein - 2 dairy - 2 fruit - 1 veggie - 2 fat - carb - 1 shake - 1 bar - 1 snack - 1
breakfast cereal - 1 dairy, 1 carb yogurt and fruit - 1 dairy, 1/2 fruit
lunch chicken - 1 proten veggies - 1 veggie
snack hummus - 1 snack
bar/shake/fruit
dinner steak - 1 protein squash - 1 veggie
June 22nd - 28th, week 1 P90X
hypertrophy - finger rolls intro metolius hangboard workout maximum strength core
Monday, June 22nd protein - 5.5 dairy - 2 fruits - 1 veggie - 3 fats - 0 carbs - 2 snacks - bar, shake, dbl
breakfast - 1 fruit, 1 shake, 1.5 protein, 1 dairy banana in yogurt 3 egg whites 2 slices turkey bacon protein shake
snack - dbl snack bar or nuts
lunch - 2 protein, 2 veggie, 1 carb chicken breast green beans corn bread carrots/sprouts
snack - 1 bar bar
workout chest & back ab ripper x
dinner - 2 protein, 1 veggie baked chicken kale
snack - 1 dairy + 1 carb milk and cereal
summary volume - 3, intensity - 2
Tuesday, June 23rd protein - 4 dairy - 2 fruits - 1 shake veggie - 2 fat - 1 carb - 1
breakfast yogurt - 1 dairy banana - 1 fruit shake/snack bacon and eggs - 2 protein
lunch bbq with baked beans and cabbage - 2 protein, 2 veggie, 1 fat (hush puppy)
snack hummus - 1 snack
workout plyo-G
bar
dinner
snack bowl of cereal - 1 carb, 1 dairy
Thursday, June 25th Yoga-X 1/3 intro metolius hangboard workout
Saturday, June 27th protein - 1.5 dairy - 1 fruit - 1 veggie - 0 fat - 0 carb - 1 shake - 0 bar - 0 snack - 0
max strength bouldering - fun! P90-X Legs and Back P90-X Ab Ripper-X
breakfast cereal - 1 carb, 1 dairy 3 eggs, 2 turkey bacon - 1.5 protein 1 grapefruit - 1 fruit
June 8th - 14th, blah
Tuesday, June 9th jogging - 1 mile
fun bouldering summary volume - 4, intensity - 4, everything felt good, right ring is 2/10
Thursday, June 11th fun bouldering at TRC
May 26th - 31st, SPD
heavy finger rolls/dead hangs weighted pullups/campus ladders bench press max str max out bouldering max str core jog 2 miles sprint intervals
Wednesday, May 27th jog 2 miles
Thursday, May 28th maximum strength warm up boulders work up to max out boulders complex set - weighted pullups/campus ladders
Saturday, May 30th jog 2 miles
Sunday, May 31st sprint intervals
maximum strength warm up boulders and routes dyno practice max out routes complex set -
May 18th - 25th, performance
Tuesday, May 19th maximum strength did some hard bouldering, two v6's, hardest stuff since Hueco in Feb
summary volume - 3, intensity - 4
Thursday, May 21st Drive By Crag Breakfast Burrito 5.10c onsight Check Your Grip 5.12a onsight
summary volume - 2, intensity - 3
Friday, May 22nd Roadside Crazy Fingers 5.10c hangdog Dragonslayer 5.10d onsight Ro Sham Bo 5.12a
Military Wall Fuzzy Undercling 5.11b Tissue Tiger 5.12b
summary volume - 4, intensity - 4
Sunday, May 24th Solar Collector Green Horn 5.11a Chickenboy 5.11b onsight Supafly 5.12b 2nd go
summary volume - 3, intensity - 5
Monday, May 25th Torrent Falls Bandolier 5.11a one hang Centrefire 5.11c flash
summary volume - 1, intensity - 2, felt very fatigued, no motivation
May 11th - 17th, SPS
running - 2 miles, 1 miles, 2 sets intervals hypertrophy - chest, shoulders maximum strength - weighted pullups, campus lock offs 4x4 boulder stamina
Tuesday, May 12th run 2 miles
Wednesday, May 13th strength endurance warm up with bouldering 1 5.8/5.8 link, 1 5.10/5.8 link, 5.10 lead, 5.12 lead 4x4 - 4/5/2/2, 4/5/2/2, 4/2/2, 2/2/1/2
maximum strength wrist extension - 15x6, 20x5, 20x5 reverse biceps curl - 45x5, 55x5 incline bench press - 135x6, 145x5, 145x5
summary volume - 3, intensity - 3
Thursday, May 14th run 1 mile
May 4th - 10th, SPD
running - 2 miles, 2 miles, 2 sets intervals hypertrophy - chest, shoulders maximum strength - weighted pullups, campus lock offs 4x4 route stamina
Monday, May 4th active rest setting at TRC
summary volume - 2, intensity - 1
Tuesday, May 5th jog 2 miles
Wednesday, May 6th strength endurance bouldering/route pyramid (new stuff) - 3,4,5,6 4x4
hypertrophy shoulder press shrugs - 135x12, 135x11, 135x10
summary volume - 4, intensity - 3
Sunday, May 10th stamina bouldering - easy/medium/hard routes - 2 5.10, 1 5.11, 1 5.12, 1 5.11, 2 5.10
maximum strength complex set - weighted pullups/campus lock offs - 50x5/2, 50x4/3, 55x4(narrow)/3
hypertrophy bench press - 145x12, 145x11, 145x9, 135x9
summary volume - 5, intensity - 4
Summary volume - 11, intensity average - 2.67
April 28th - May 3rd, SPS
running - 2 miles, 2 miles, 2 sets intervals hypertrophy - chest, traps maximum strength - core
Wednesday, April 29th stamina @ TRC warm up easy boulders medium boulders hard boulders, not much routes - 2 5.10's, 1 5.11, 1 5.12, 1 5.11, 2 5.10's plate side bends - 35x5, 35x4, 35x5 medicine ball crunches - 5, 6, 5
summary volume - 4, intensity - 3
Thursday, April 30th hypertrophy bench - 135x12, 145x11, 145x9, 135x9 decline dumbbell press - 50x12, 50x11, 50x10 wrist extension - 15x5, 15x4, 15x4
Sunday, May 3rd sprint intervals volume - 2, intensity - 2
maximum strength warm up bouldering some hard bouldering, straight pulling hyper gravity bouldering - 4 laps with 15 pounds medium bouldering complex set - weighted pullups/campus lockoffs - 40x4/2, 50x4/3 fun bouldering
summary volume - 4, intensity - 4
Summary volume -
April 20th - 27th, SPD
one training day followed by a trip to the New jogging - 2 miles, 2 miles spring/jogs - 1 mile
Saturday, April 25th strength endurance @ Meadow River Cat Food 5.10b, 2nd go Toxic Hueco 5.11d, top rope flash
summary volume - 2, intensity - 3
Sunday, April 26th stamina plus maximum strength bouldering @ Meadow tiered roof - V2, V2, V4, V6 worked some other hard stuff
cool down at Summersville 5.10b? on sight
summary volume - 4, intensity - 4
Monday, April 27th strength endurance @ Butcher's Branch Green Piece 5.10b Right of Green Piece 5.10b Bicycle Club 5.11d, 2nd go
summary volume - 3, intensity - 4
Summary volume - 14, intensity - 14
April 13th - 19th, SPS hypertrophy - chest, traps, shoulders max strength - incline bench, weighted hangs, weighted pullups route stamina 6x8 jogging - 2 milesspring/jogs - 2 miles, 2 miles
Tuesday, April 14th technical dyno practice routes - work on posture, meditative climbing
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2, elbows were a bit sore, so workout was cut short, good mental practice though
Wednesday, April 15th hypertrophy chest shoulders
summary volume - 3, intensity - 3
Friday, April 17th technical routes, leading
maximum strength complex set - weighted pullups, clean & jerk complex set - heavy finger rolls, weighted hangs
summary volume - 3, intensity - 4
April 6th - 12th, SPD hypertrophy - biceps, triceps, chest, shouldersmax strength - clean & jerk, wrist extensionroute stamina6x8jogging - 1 mile, 2 miles spring/jogs - 1 mile
Monday, April 7th active rest - routesetting
Thursday, April 9th
maximum strength dyno practice warm up bouldering or routes clean and jerk - 115x7, 135x4, 135x4 wrist extension - 20x5, 20x5 reverse biceps curls - 45x7, 55x6, 55x5, 55x5
strength endurance 5x4? - good workout, not great form
summary volume - 5, intensity - 5
Saturday, April 11th stamina at Little Rock City 23 problems v3 and lower
summary volume - 4, intensity - 2
Sunday, April 12th stamina at Foster Falls 5 routes 5.9 - 5.10
summary volume - 4, intensity - 3
Summary volume - 13, intensity - 10
March 30th - April 5th, SPD hypertrophy - biceps, triceps, chest, back max strength - weighted pullups, military press, dead lifts route stamina4x4 jogging - 2 miles, 2 miles spring/jogs - 2 miles
Tuesday, March 31st jogged 1.5 miles
endurance/fitness turkish pushups - 25x6, 35x5, 25x5 kettle bell - around the world, 2 around the legs, 2
summary volume - 2, intensity - 2
Wednesday, April 1st endurance chain routes - 4 sets lead - 2 routes
summary volume - 4, intensity - 3
Thursday, April 2nd jog 2 miles
hypertrophy biceps triceps
summary volume - 2, intensity - 3
Sunday, April 5th stamina @ Pilot 15 pitches on three bears wall and wall to left
summary volume - 4, intensity - 2
Summary volume - 12, intensity - 10
March 23rd - 29th, GPS hypertrophy - chest, traps, shouldersmax strength - power cleans, coreroute staminajogging - 2 miles, 1 milespring/jogs - 2 miles
Tuesday, March 24th jog 1 mile
hypertrophy slight incline bench - 135x12, 135x11, 135x10, 135x9 decline dumbbell press - 45x12, 50x11, 45x10 flat chest fly - 12, 11
summary volume - 2, intensity - 3
Wednesday, March 25th maximum strength core power cleans - 115x6, 125x5, 125x4, 125x3 shoulder stabilizers
summary volume - 4, intensity - 4
Saturday, March 28th endurance sprint/jogs - 3
maximum strength ring ups weighted pullups - wide grip - 50x, ring grip - , narrow grip - standing row - 105x
hypertrophy shoulder dumbbell press - 35x upright row - 55x dumbbell shrugs -
summary volume - 4, intensity - 4
Sunday, March 29th stamina 3 5.9's, 2 5.10's, 2 5.11's, 2 5 10's, 3 5.9's
maximum strength bench press - 175x5, 185x4, 185x4, 185x5
hypertrophy core - 6 sets
summary volume - 4, intensity - 3
Summary volume - 14, intensity - 14 finger feeling better, climbing more volume at 5.11 next week
March 16th - 22nd, GPD hypertrophy - chest, forearms, core, tricepsroute stamina - 4 8's, 2 9's, 2 10's, 2 9's, 4 8'smax strength - core, dead lifts, weighted pullupsjogging - 1 mile, 1 miles spring/jogs - 2 miles
Wednesday, March 18th active recovery set a route for the comp, finger felt OK
maximum strength complex set - weighted pullups/clean & jerk - 45x7/95x8, 50x5/95x7, 50x6/95x7, 50x4/95x6 standing rows - 85x8, 95x7, 105x5, 105x4, 105x4
summary volume - 4, intensity - 4
Friday, March 20th hypertrophy decline bench - 135x12, 145x12, 145x11, 145x9 overhead triceps extension, one dumbbell - 40x12, 45x12, 45x11, 45x9 incline dumbbell press - 45x12, 45x11, 45x10
summary volume - 3, intensity - 4
Saturday, March 21st heavy forearm rolls - 95x5, 95x6, 95x5, 95x4
crunches - 12, 12, 11, 10, 9
summary volume - 3, intensity - 2
Sunday, March 22nd stamina routes - 3 8's, 3 9's, 2 10's, 3 9's, 3 8's
maximum strength deadlift - 95x5, 95x5, 95x4 biceps curl - 20x12, 25x12, 25x12, 25x11
summary volume - 4, intensity - 3
March 9th - 15th, GPD
hypertrophy - chest, forearms, core
max strength - power cleans, core
route stamina - 4 8's, 2 9's, 2 10's, 2 9's, 4 8's
jogging - 1 mile, 1 mile
spring jogs - 1 mile
Monday, March 9th
maximum strength
complex sets inclined bench/medicine ball in the air - 135x8/30x10, 145x6/30x10, 155x4/30x12
turkish pushups - 15x7, 15x7, 15x6
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Tuesday, March 10th
jogging - 1 mile
Wednesday, March 11th
maximum strength
weighted pullups widegrip - 30x6, 40x6, 45x5, 45x5
narrow grip - 40x5, 45x5
rings hanging rows - 6, 5, 5
kettle bell snatch - 25x8, 25x6
dead lifts - 95x5, 95x5
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 3
Friday, March 13th
hypertrophy
decline dumbbell press - 50x
flat flies - 20x
maximum strength
wrist flexion - 20x
external rotation -
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 2
Saturday, March 14th
stamina
routes - 4 8's, 2 9's, 2 10's, 2 9's, 4 8's
clean & jerk - 95x8, 95x8, 95x6
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 3, finger pain - 6/10
March 2nd - 8th, restorative
fingers still hurting, so no climbing
weight lifting at lunch time - chest, shoulders, biceps, traps
jogging - 1 mile, 1 mile, 1 mile
Sunday, March 8th
maximum strength
complex sets - knee ups/medicine ball sit ups - 6/10, 6/8, 5/10
Turkish pushups - 15x7
February 22nd - March 1st, rest
jogging - 1 mile, 1 mile, 1 mile, 1 mile
February 12th - 20th, performance at Hueco
Thursday, February 12th
warm up at the Gymnasium
Rhymes with Rich V3
Only the Little People Pay Taxes V3
The Belly Bomber V1
Gag Reflex V2 - very reachy for me, more like V4
The new meadow
Lobster Claw V5 - 2nd Go
worked Speedbump V7
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 4
Friday, February 13th
warm up at warm up area
Name Dropper V3
Pounding System direct finish V4
Murray Unlunge V4
sign of the cross
worked Choir Boys V9
above the ranch house area
Speak to Me O Toothless One V1
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 5, left elbow slightly tweaked
Monday, February 16th
Tuesday, February 17th
Thursday, February 18th
Summary
Tried too hard on consecutive days - did not stay within self, also ended up doing several problems all intense with same move - have to have more variety to keep joints fresh
February 2nd - 11th, performance prep
Tuesday, February 3rd
something at TRC
Thursday, February 5th
maximum strength
hard bouldering - did not feel psyched at all
weighted hangs - crimps 2, open hand 2, half crimp 2, pinches 2, slopers 1
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 4
Saturday, February 7th
blah at Moore's
wanted to do some recruitment training on Tsunami, but got tired
did lots of problems around the V3P0 boulder
V4P0
The Pit - V5
Some thing to the right of Stickman - V4
worked Gravy - V7
problem left of Zen Spasm - V2
Monday, February 9th
active rest
tried new problems
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 4
Tuesday, February 10th
strength endurance
warm up and try a few hard problems
4x4 on V5, V3, V3, V3 - completed set
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
January 26th - February 1st, SPS
hypertrophy - chest, shoulders, traps
max strength - fingers, power cleans, chest, campus board, hypergravity pullups
aerobic - jog 1 mile
Tuesday, January 27th
maximum strength and power
warm up
practice ANSWER on rope
hard bouldering
complex set - hypergravity pullups/campus lock offs - 6x35/3, 5x40/4, 5x40/4
fun bouldering
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 4
Wednesday, January 28th
hypertrophy
dumbbell shoulder press
summary
volume - 1, intensity - 1
Thursday, January 29th
maximum strength
warm up
hard bouldering on big holds
ring workout - one arm row extension things
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Saturday, January 31st
performance at Moore's
House boulder
Gabe's wall center V1
Gabe's wall left V2
Gabe's wall traverse V4
easy arete left V2
easy arete right V2
Stewart's Roof V5
Stewart's left arete V3
The Nick V6
V4P0
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 3
January 19th - 25th, Restorative
hypertrophy - chest, shoulders, triceps, traps, pullups
max strength - power cleans, bench press, campus board, core, one arms
aerobic - basketball
Tuesday, January 20th
hard bouldering at TRC
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 4
Wednesday, January 21st
hypertrophy
bench - 135x11, 135x9, 135x8
dumbbell decline press - 40x9, 35x8
shoulder dumbbell press - 40x9, 35x9, 35x6
strength endurance
some routes, set routes
power endurance on the slope and crimp lines in the cave
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 3
Thursday, January 22nd
maximum strength
core
hard bouldering
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 3
Friday, January 23rd
aerobic
jog 1 mile
Saturday, January 24th
active rest
set routes
played basketball
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
Sunday, January 25th
general
long yoga warm up
maximum strength
hard bouldering
finger rolls with campus laddering - 95x5/4, 105x6/4, 105x6/5
power cleans - 115x5, 120x4
side plate bends - 45x4, 45x5
ring straight leg ups - 5, 5
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 4
Summary
Started to feel some symptoms of overtraining, dialed back volume and intensity in early part of week as well as with one hard workout on Sunday. Finger injury feels pretty good. Must watch elbows and volume in next week.
January 12th - 18th, SPS
hypertrophy - chest, shoulders, back
max strength - power cleans, bench press, campus board, core
jog - 1 mile, 1 mile, 1 mile
Monday, January 12th
maximum strength at Rumbling Bald
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Wednesday, January 14th
aerobic
jog 1 mile
hypertrophy
decline dumbbell press - 45x12, 45x11, 40x10
incline dumbbell press - 40x11, 40x11
maximum strength
reverse wrist curls - 15x5, 20x4, 20x4
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 3
maximum strength
hard bouldering
short campus board session - 1 set each grip
front levers - both knees, 2,
plate side bends - 35x5, 35x5, 35x5
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 4
Friday, January 16th
hypertrophy
standing row - 75x12, 85x11, 85x10
dumbbell row - 40x11, 35x10
maximums strength
deadlift - 135x5, 155x5, 155x5
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 3
Saturday, January 17th
strength endurance
lots of routes
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Sunday, January 18th
maximum strength
fun climbing, some hard stuff
power cleans - 115x3, 115x5, 115x4
bench press - 135x8, 155x5, 165x5
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 2
January 5th - 11th, SPD
hypertrophy - biceps, back, chest, shoulders
max strength - power cleans, bench press, core
hangboard
4x4
jog - 1 mile, 1 mile
Monday, January 5th
aerobic
jogging 1 mile
active rest
setting at TRC
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 2
Tuesday, January 6th
hypertrophy
decline dumbbell press - 40x12, 45x11, 45x10, 45x10
shrugs - 135x12, 135x11, 135x11
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
Wednesday, January 7th
strength endurance
new boulder problems
two laps on the auto belay circuit
4x4's with new problems - made up problems on backside, mostly fingery 4x4
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Thursday, January 8th
hypertrophy
biceps curls - 25x12
shoulder side raises - 15x
shoulder front raises - 15x
shoulder dumbbell press - 35x
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 3
maximum strength
hangboard intro and medium
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 3
Friday, January 9th
aerobic
jog 1 mile
Saturday, January 10th
maximum strength
hard bouldering
power cleans - 95x
side plate bends - 35x
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 5
Sunday, January 11th
maximum strength
bouldering at Rumbling Bald
flashed some V4's
worked Brackish Water V8
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
December 29th - January 4th, SPD
hypertrophy - chest, biceps, shoulders
max strength - one arms
campus board
Tuesday, December 30th
maximum strength
hard bouldering plus one arms
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 4
Wednesday, December 31st
hypertrophy
bicep curl -
shoulder press -
laying front shoulder raise -
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
Friday, January 2nd
aerobic
jog 1 mile
maximum strength
hangboard - metolius intro and intermediate
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 3
Saturday, January 3rd
active rest
setting at TRC
hypertrophy
dumbbell press - 45x12, 45x11, 45x10
dumbbell incline fly - 25x12, 25x11
Sunday, January 4th
maximum strength
hard bouldering and shoulders
front levers - 2, 3, with knees bent, feeling better!
side plate bends - 35x5, 35x4
campus and hangboard - two sets open hand, , one set half crimp, three sets pinches
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 4
December 21st - 27th, GPD
Sunday, December 21st
performance at Little Rock City
warmups near the wave
mantle problems by the glove
The Wave V5
Manute Bol V5
Chronic V7
Ribcage V3
Sternum V4, flash
mantle top out problems adjacent to Jerry's Kids
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Monday, December 22nd
performance at Little Rock City
slabby warm ups
Mystery Groove V4, flash
The Glove V5
mantle top out problems near The Glove
Spyro Gyro V7
Diesel Power V5
Super Mario V4
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 4
Thursday, December 25th
aerobic
jog 1 mile
strength endurance
metolius easy hangboard workout
metolius intermediate hangboard workout
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Friday, December 26th
hypertrophy
bench press - 125x12, 125x11, 125x9, 125x9
triceps extension - 20x12, 15x12
summary
volume - 1, intensity - 1
Saturday, December 27th
active rest
setting at TRC
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 2
Sunday, December 28th
stamina day
4 V4's, 2 V5's, 1 V6, 1 V7
front levers
1 V6, 2 V5's, 4 V4's
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 3
Summary
volume - 19 (8 days), intensity - 16
pretty good days at Little Rock City, did the V7's quickly, V7 feels consolidated
December 14th - 18th, GPD
max strength - shoulders, one arms, core
4x4's
Sunday, December 14th
stamina at Asheboro
Dihedral V2
Lightning Bolt V3
worked FUSP V5 - shutdown on the top out
Darth Vader V3
Darth Vader right V4
Asheboro's Steepest V5
Asheboro's Steepest right V6
Larry King V5 (twice)
Flying Saucer V3
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 3, right index a4 - 2/10
Monday, December 15th
maximum strength
shoulder moves
shoulder press - 35x5, 45x5
shoulder push ups
more shoulder moves
reverse wrist curls - 20x5
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 3
Tuesday, December 16th
maximum strength
front levers
one arms
two campus board sets
some hard bouldering
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 4, right ring a4 - 1/10
Wednesday, December 17th
strength endurance
movement drills on auto belay
4x4 - pretty good burn but weak on third and fourth lap
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Friday, December 19th
maximum strength
gym session in Atlanta
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 4
December 1st - 7th, GPS
volume - 14, intensity - 14
run - 1 mile, 1 mile
max strength - chest, shoulders
hypertrophy - chest
front levers
one arms
stamina
Monday, December 1st
active rest
route setting at TRC
hypertrophy
dumbbell decline press
dumbbell incline press
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
Tuesday, December 2nd
stamina
did most of the new problems in the gym, good workout
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 3
Wednesday, December 3rd
maximum strength
front levers
side plate bends
core problems!
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 2
Sunday, December 6th
performance @ Rumbling Bald
7e V3
Dime Crack V4, flash
11e V4
Kung Fu Grip V5
Lost Cause V5
74c V6
Helicopter SDS V5
40oz V3 flash
Monday, December 7th
performance @ Rumbling Bald
Rotator Cuff V6
Green Knob V5
Summary
got sick on Thursday, felt the effects until the following Wednesday
November 24th - 30th, GPD
run - 1 mile, 1 mile
weights - chest, shoulders, back
front levers
one arms
campus/hang board
Tuesday, November 25th
power endurance
1 mile run/walks
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
maximum strength
bench press - 185x5, 190x4, 195x3, 200x3, 185x4
chest moves
triceps extension - 30x4, 30x3
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 3
Wednesday, November 26th
maximum strength
campus board/hang board
threshold bouldering
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 4
Thursday, November 27th
power endurance
yoga - downward dog, warrior 3, plank
metolius hangboard workout
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
Friday, November 28th
maximum strength
weighted pull ups - narrow grip - 40x5, 50x3, 55x3, 60x2, wide grip - 50x2, 40x2
barbell rows - 115x2, 95x3, 95x3
campus - one static with negatives, one dynamic drop from the top
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Sunday, November 29th
maximum strength
hard boulders, had fun, felt good
strength endurance
4x4 - women's pink, neon, drk green, white; 1st lap - fell half way on drk green, 2nd lap - no drk green, 3rd lap - pink, neon, white, 4th lap - pink, neon
got 8/10 pumped, was very pumped going into final lap
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
Summary
volume - 14, intensity - 16
November 17th - 23rd, GPS
run 1 mile, 1 mile, 1 mile
weights - chest, shoulders, core
front levers
one arms
Monday, November 17th
aerobic
jog 1 mile
yoga - warrior 3, downward dog
summary
volume - 1, intensity - 1
maximum strength
bench press - 185x4, 185x3, 185x2
triceps extension - 25x5, 30x3, 30x3
hard slappy boulder problems
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
Wednesday, November 18th
active rest
set a lead cave route
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2, right ring finger - 5/10
Thursday, November 19th
maximum strength
warm up
lying front raises - 15x5
shoulder moves - 3 sets of 4
dumbbell shoulder press - 50x5, 50x5, 50x4
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
Saturday, November 21st
maximum strength
back
campus board - open hand only
biceps
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 2, right ring A4 - 4/10
got very worked setting the route
Sunday, November 22nd
aerobic
jog 1 mile
summary
volume - 1, intensity - 1
maximum strength
one arms - 1 set of static with lock offs, and slow decline on campus problem, 2 sets of dynamic
front levers - 3 sets of 3, knees bent
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 3, right ring A4 - 3/10
Summary
volume - 14, intensity - 13
As soon as I started resting my finger it started feeling better, probably needs two more weeks of babying it before I can start ramping up hard training on it again
November 3rd - 9th, SPD
Thursday, November 6th
VE
practiced technique
Friday, November 7th
Bouldering at Moore's Wall 2 mile
all the up routes on Dr Roboto
V3 on top of the crack at euro wall
obvious V3 in the middle of the euro wall
Circus Roof V4
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3, right ring finger - 2/10, good steep workout
Sunday, November 9th
sport at Moore's Wall
The Recommendation 5.12b (5.12a) - 2nd go
summary
volume - 1, intensity - 3, right ring finger - 3/10, took it easy, big weekend next, want finger to get better
October 27th - November 2nd, SPS
Tuesday, October 28th
TRC
Thursday, October 30th
VE
Saturday, November 1st
active rest
set a route at TRC
did some boulders
Sunday, November 2nd
bouldering at Moore's
warmed up at house area
The Pit V5 - 4th go
worked Tsunami V8
Vandal V7
summary
October 18th - 26th, performance
Saturday, October 18th
hawksnest damn
Sit Start on warm up boulder thing
Breast Arete Left
Sunday, October 19th
Muir Valley
Moonshine 5.9+ flash
Sunbeam 5.10d flash
Bathtub Mary 5.11a onsight
Special K 5.11b onsight
Monday, October 20th
Military Wall
Moonbeam 5.9 onsight
Sunshine 5.9+ onsight
Fuzzy Undercling 5.11b onsight
Left Flank
worked Infectious 5.12b on toprope
one hanged Wild Yet Tasty 5.12a
Tuesday, October 21st
Motherlode
Breathe Right 5.11c onsight
Injured Reserve 5.11a onsight
messed around on 40 ounces of justice 5.13a
Thursday, October 22nd
Phantasia
Creature Feature 5.9 onsight
Creep Show 5.10d onsight
Count Floyd Show 5.11b flash
Twinkie 5.12a onsight
Military Wall
In the Light 5.10c onsight
Another Doug Reed Route 5.11b onsight
Friday, October 23rd
Solar Collector
Mona Lisa Overdrive 5.11b flash
Buddha Hole 5.11d flash
Roadside
Ro Sham Bo 5.12a - one hang
Saturday, October 24th
Military Wall
warmed up on Possum Lips 5.10d - no send
worked Tissue Tiger 5.12b
October 13th - 17th, SPS
easy week in prep for a full week at the Red
Wednesday, October 15th
technical
learned some crack techniques
strength endurance
lots of routes, back to back, lead
training circuit burn out
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 3
October 6th - 12th, SPD
max strength - front levers, one arms
hypertrophy - chest
climbing strength endurance
Tuesday, October 7th
hypertrophy
decline bench press - 135x12, 135x11, 135x10, 135x7
incline bench press - 115x11, 115x9
maximum strength
wrist extension - 15x5, 20x5, 20x5
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
Wednesday, October 8th
maximum strength
campus up and down front boulder - 2 sets
campus board - half crimp, open hand
hang board - pinch, slope
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 5
Saturday, October 11th
active rest
set a hard 12 at the gym, did the route
did a few boulders
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
Sunday, October 12th
stamina @ Moore's Wall
House arete right V4
The Nick V6 - first go
Lost Boys V6 - first go
The Vandal V7 - to last move two times, no send
summary
excellent day, volume - 3, intensity - 5. SO close on the Vandal, gonna go next time with a better finishing sequence
September 29th - October 5th, performance
max strength - front levers, one arms
Monday, September 29th
maximum strength
campus and negative V0's on steep wall - 2 laps on each
front levers - 3,3,3
hypertrophy
decline dumbbell press - 45x12, 50x12, 50x11
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Wednesday, October 1st
technical
lots of boulders
strength endurance
did laps on the pump circuit - 2, 2, 1.5
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Saturday, October 4th
performance @ Summersville Lake
That 8 5.7
Sniff the Drill 5.8
Souled Out 5.9
Voodoo Surfing 5.10b onsight
Narcissus 5.12a - two hangs to the top, didn't know crux beta
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Sunday, October 5th
bouldering @ Meadow River
Crack Top Out V3
Roof area left side V4 flash
worked the V6 on the right side of the roof
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 3
September 22nd - 28th, SPD
max strength - front levers, one arms
September 15th - 21st, performance
Wednesday, September 17th
technical
worked on new routes
Friday, September 19th
the dump
Son of White Trash 5.8+ onsight
White Trash 5.10a onsight
Dimpsty Dumpster 5.10a onsight
Suck My Dope 5.11a onsight
Homegrown 5.9+ onsight
Voodoo Child 5.11a onsight
Saturday, September 20th
blowing rock
Low boulder arete V0 flash
Low boulder left of arete V4
Low boulder right side slopey V4
Harvester V4
Sunday, September 21st
grandmother
Roof behind Engine Block V6
Big Guns Static V7
September 8th - 14th, start mesocycle, SPD
max strength - front levers
hypertrophy - forearms, chest
4x4's
running - 1 mile, 1 mile
Monday, September 8th
aerobic
jogging 1 mile
summary
volume - 1, intensity - 0
Tuesday, September 9th
technical
did some easy routes
maximum strength
front levers - 4, 4, 4
hypertrophy
dumbbell press - 40x12, 45x11, 45x10
decline bench press - 40x11, 40x10
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
Wednesday, September 10th
maximum strength
campus board/hang board - start with half crimp, once warm - open hand, slopers, full crimp, pinches, half crimp
strength endurance
4x4's - right side green, underneath yellow, lead cave purple/red, right side orange - 1 successful circuit, then some weaker runs, should switch to 6x8's
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 4, right index finger is slightly sore, it'll be OK
Saturday, September 13th
active rest
finished setting 5.10 black route
did blue/green problem on front wall - V6
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 3, right index finger A4 pulley sore, very light workout, felt good
Sunday, September 14th
stamina
House warm up V1
House right of warm up V3
House arete right V4
House back roof V4
Stickman V4
Got Your Back V4
Proper Modulation Sit V6
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 3, right finger did OK, felt pretty good, good workout, not a very high training stimulus
Summary
volume - 10, intensity - 12
September 1st - 7th
restorative
Tuesday, September 2nd
active rest
set a route at TRC
summary
volume - 1, intensity - 1, I was still recovering a bit from the trip, this was a good easy day, and I needed it
Thursday, September 4th
stamina
boulder pyramid - 4 V3's, 2 V4's, 1 V5, 1 V6, 1 V5, 2 V4's, 3 V3's
work on new problems, 3 goes and thats it
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 3, this is a high volume after not training well for the last couple of weeks
Saturday, September 6th
technical @ TRC
did some new stuff, green V6 on mini roof, brown/pink V6 on arch
set some stuff, lots of climbing
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 3
Sunday, September 7th
performance @ Moore's Wall
Octagon arete left V4
Kimbo Slice V5
Nice 'un Simulator V4
Circus Roof V4
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 5
Summary
volume - 12, intensity - 12
This was more of a recovery week than I anticipated that it would be, my body needed it, the hard bouldering on Saturday and Sunday definitely was a nice training stimulus.
August 23rd - August 29th, performance
bouldering at Yosemite, Bishop, Tahoe, some sport in the Owen's River Gorge area
August 23rd, bouldering in Yosemite
Candyland
flashed Pushover V0
flashed Alobar V2
got shut down on the crux move of the Diamond left V6
Housekeeping
lots of V0's
#29 V2
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 4/5
it was hot, the landings at Candyland are mostly not good, and many problems are slightly contrived, the more difficult lines are pure, but that didn't help me!
the crowds and the heat were a major turnoff, admittedly, its a horrible time to visit for climbing, but what can you do...
August 24th, sport at Clark Wall, The Alcove
onsighted 5.9 in the way back dihedral, great route
flashed 5.10b to the right
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 3/5
it was hot again, but we were in the shade, nice crag
August 24th, bouldering at Happies
flashed Swing Your Partner V1
flashed Comfort of Home V2
summary
volume - 1, intensity - 2
August 25th, bouldering at Happies
flashed Castrate Your Television V1
The Hulk V6
Cue Ball V4
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 5
Between Hulk and Cue Ball, my body got worked, we got at the crag about 6am and had pretty good conditions until about 9, and we headed out
August 27th, bouldering at Lake Tahoe, Bliss Ladder boulder area
did all the problems on the ladder boulder save the dyno
did the V4/V5ish problem on the left side of Mark's roof
cleaned off a rock on the back side of the ridge, right by the trail, sent a V1ish problem
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 5
The problem on Mark's roof was desperate for me, cleaning the rock and probable FA was cool, joints are feeling tired
August 28th, bouldering at Happies
joints did not feel good, despite being at the crag at sunup, it was still hot! I sent some easy stuff and packed it in shortly after
August 29th, bouldering at Buttermilks
The Ramp V3
August 18th - 25th, performance lead in
Tuesday, August 19th
maximum strength
hard bouldering at TRC
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 4
Thursday, August 21st
maximum strength
hard bouldering at TRC
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 4
Summary
This was a very effective lead in week, focusing on maximum finger strength this week and the previous several prepared me well for hard bouldering, however in the future, stamina training should be done prior to a trip, this would help the body prepare for higher loads, and recovery
August 11th - August 17th, SPS, end mesocycle max strength - chest, one arms, fingers
hypertrophy - shoulders, arms, core, chest
4x4 boulders - 4
running - 1 mile, 2 miles, 1 mile
swimming - 20 minutes
Monday August 11th technical
onsight lots of routes at Inner Peaks
maximum strength
good finger workout with Horst holds
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 3
Tuesday, August 12th
aerobic
running 1 mile, last half sprint/jogs
summary
volume - 1, intensity - 1
maximum strength
reverse biceps curl - 50x5, 50x5, 50x5
external rotation - 5, 5, 4
summary
volume - 1, intensity - 1
Wednesday, August 13th
hypertrophy
shoulder machine press - 35x12, 35x12, 35x11, 30x11
incline front shoulder raise - 15x11, 12.5x12cable crunches - 80x18, 100x14, 90x16
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
maximum strength
lots of steep problems, great finger workout
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 4, right elbow pain - 1/10, right ring finger pain - 1/10
August 4th - August 10th, SPS
max strength - chest, one arms, fingers
power - clean & jerk
hypertrophy - shoulders, arms, core
4x4 boulders - 4, did lots of lead instead
running - 1 mile, 2 miles, 1 mile
swimming - 20 minutes
Monday, August 4th
active rest
set routes at TRC
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
Tuesday, August 5th
aerobic
jog 1 mile
summary
volume - 1, intensity - 0
Wednesday, August 6th
hypertrophy
cable cross up - 35x12, 30x12, 30x11
decline press - 135x12, 135x11, 135x11
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 3
technical
boulders
easy routes
black route - felt strongest yet, need more power for two finger section
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 3, gave a great run on the black route, wasn't totally warmed up; need to work on power more, contact strength, maximum finger strength
strength endurance
lots of routes and lead - green lead, yellow lead, pink lead
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 3
Friday, August 8th
July 28th - August 3rd, SPD max strength - chest, one arms, fingershypertrophy - shoulders, arms, core4x4 boulders - 3running - 1 mile, 2 miles, 1 mile swimming - 20 minutes Monday, July 28th maximum strength
assisted one arm pullups - 30x3, 30x4, 25x3, 25x2
negative lock offs - 2, 2
hypertrophy
cable crunches - 50x12, 50x11, 50x11, 50x11
ab twist - 50x12, 50x11
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 2/5, the cable crunches are becoming less effective, must find a way to activate left side of abs
Tuesday, July 29th
power
depth jumps
hypertrophy
barbell biceps curl - 60x12, 50x12, 50x11, 50x10
cable triceps extension - 50x12, 50x11, 50x11
dumbbell biceps preacher curl - 15x12, 20x12, 20x12
dumbbell triceps extension - 20x11, 20x9
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 2/5
Wednesday, July 30th, am
aerobic
running 1 mile
summary
volume - 1/5, intensity - 1/5
Wednesday, July 30th
technical
did some new routes, some old routes
strength endurance
4x4 - pink V5, green V3, blue/pink V4, back wall V4
1 successful lap, 2nd nearly successful, dropped difficult on 3rd and 4th laps
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5, felt weak, felt awkward, still recovering from travel?
Friday, August 1st
hypertrophy
shoulder machine press - 30x12, 30x11, 30x10, 25x11
lying side shoulder raise - 15x11, 15x12
lying front shoulder raise - 15x11
shrugs - 165x12, 165x11, 155x12
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
Saturday, August 2nd
maximum strength
boulder projects
bench press - 185x4, 195x4, 200x3
fingers - campus board, crimps, open, half crimp, pinch
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 4
Sunday, August 3rd
aerobic
run 1 mile - last half mile jog/springs
summary
volume - 1, intensity - 1
July 21st - July 27th, SPS max strength - chest, one arms, fingers hypertrophy - shoulders, arms, core4x4 boulders - 2nd weekrunning - 1 mile, 2 miles, 1 mile swimming - 20 minutes Monday, July 21st
aerobic
swim 20 minutes
maximum strength
reverse wrist curls - 15x5, 17.5x5, 17.5x5, 20x3
external rotation - 5, 5, 4
hypertrophy
abdominal cable crunch - 50x12, 55x11, 55x10, 50x11
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 1/5
Tuesday, July 22nd
technical
warm up and practice projects
strength endurance
4x4 - pink V5, blue/pink V4, green V3, back wall V4, two successful laps, then dropped down intensity, 3rd lap - V5, V3, V1, V1, 4th lap - V5, V1, V1, V1
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5, 4x4's felt excellent, slight stiffness/soreness in ring fingers during warm up -> ease off on crimps, warm up slower
Thursday, July 24th
aerobic
run 2 miles - finished with alternating jog/sprint sections
summary
volume - 1/5, intensity - 1/5
Thursday, July 24th
technical
lots of onsighting tall routes
the bouldering at planet granite sucked
summary
volume - 4/5, intensity - 3/5
Friday, July 25th
hypertrophy
chest machine - 4 sets
shrugs - 4 sets
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 2/5
Saturday, July 26th
hypertrophy
shoulder side raises - 15x12, 15x11, 15x11, 15x10
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 2/5
Summary
volume - 14, intensity - 12, I was on vacation Thursday - Sunday, so missed several goals. Climbing long routes at the gym felt great, and was a quality strength endurance workout
July 14th - July 20th, SPD, lower climbing intensity -> let joints get nice and solid max strength - chest, one arms, fingershypertrophy - shoulders, arms, core, chest4x4 boulders - 1st week V5, V4, V3, V4running - 1 mile, 2 miles, 1 mile swimming - 20 minutes
Thursday, July 17th
technical
onsight V4 crimp problem
maximum strength
worked V8 and V9 boulders
strength endurance
4x4 - some failure, do the same thing next time, pink V5, my V4, green V3, my V4 in lead cave
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 4/5, was very psyched to be in the gym, felt a tiny tiny tweak in right ring finger
Saturday, July 19th
maximum strength
one arm pullups -
hypertrophy
dumbbell biceps curl - 25x12, 25x11, 25x10, 25x9
dumbbell triceps extension - 25x11, 25x10, 20x11
shrugs - 165x12, 165x11, 165x10, 160x11
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5
aerobic
very light 1 mile jog
summary
volume - 1/5, intensity - 0/5
Sunday, July 20th
technical
pacing on routes/boulders, sticky hands
nice work on V4/V5 problems on steep wall
maximum strength
worked projects - red V6, V8, V9, made progress! even though I felt weak from Saturday's workout!
campus and fingerboard - easy on big muscles, did light campus and finger board word after projects, felt great
bench press - 185x5, 190x4, 195x3
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 4/5, body feels great
July 7th - July 13th, SPD, lower climbing intensity, lower climbing volume -> let joints stay strong while working on max strength max strength - chest, one arms, fingershypertrophy - shoulders, arms, coreroute pyramidrunning - 1 mile, 2 miles, 1 mile swimming - 20 minutes
Monday, July 7th
hypertrophy
dumbbell biceps curl - 25x11, 25x10, 25x9, 20x11
dumbbell triceps extension - 25x9, 20x11, 20x11, 20x10
cable core crunches - 60x12, 60x11
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 1
Tuesday, July 8th, am
aerobic
run 2 miles
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 1
Wednesday, July 9th
stamina
route pyramid - 4 9's, 2 10's, 1 11, 1 12, 1 11, 2 10's, 4 9's
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 3
the route pyramid took a very long time to complete, and I felt very worked after the workout.
Friday, July 11th, am
aerobic
run 1 mile
summary
volume - 1, intensity - 1
Friday, July 11th
aerobic
swim - 20 minutes
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
Saturday, July 12th
hypertrophy
shoulders
technical
pacing - easy boulders, try to climb fast, sticky hands
maximum strength
campus board
June 30th - July 6th, SPS, end mesocycle max strength - shoulders, arms, corehypertrophy - back, chestboulder pyramidrunning - 1 mile, 1 mile, 1 mile
Monday, June 30th
aerobic
running - 1 mile
summary
volume - 1, intensity - 1
active rest
set routes at TRC
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
Wednesday, July 2nd
maximum strength
barbell biceps curl - 75x5, 85x5, 85x5
dumbbell triceps extension - 30x4, 30x5, 30x4
stamina
boulder pyramid - 4 V3, 2 V4, 1 V5, 1 V6, 1 V5, 2 V4, 4 V3
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 4/5
Thursday, July 3rd, am
hypertrophy
incline iso press - 45x
cable crossover -
summary
volume - 2, intensity - 2
Friday, July 4th
hypertrophy
barbell vertical row - 45x12, 45x11, 45x11, 45x10
dual cable pull down - 110x12, 110x11, 110x
wide grip cable row - 100x12, 110x11...
summary
volume - 3, intensity - 2
Sunday, July 6th
lots of route setting
maximum strength
V8 boulder
shoulder dumb bell press - 50x5, 50x5, 50x7
campus board - open grip - 5, half crimp - lots, doubles, full crimp - 2, times two
V6 red
summary
volume - 4, intensity - 3
Summary
volume - 14, intensity - 15. Felt great on Sunday, strong. Didn't climb too hard. Forearms feel great after training.
June 25th - July 1st, SPD max strength - shoulders, arms, corehypertrophy - back, chestboulder pyramidrunning - 1 mile, 1 mile, 1 mile
Tuesday, June 24th
active rest
climbing at TRC
summary
volume - 1/5, intensity - 1/5
Wednesday, June 25th
active rest
climbing at TRC
summary
volume - 1/5, intensity - 1/5
Thursday, June 26th, am
aerobic
running - 1 mile
summary
volume - 1/5, intensity - 1/5
Thursday, June 26th
maximum strength
barbell biceps curl - 70x5, 80x4, 80x4, 70x4
dumbbell triceps extension - 30x4, 30x3, 25x5
hypertrophy
T-bar - 50x12, 55x11, 55x10, 50x10
narrow grip pull down - 110x12, 110x10, 100x10
shrugs - 160x12, 160x11, 160x10
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5
Friday, June 27th
maximum strength
dumbbell shoulder press - 50x4, 50x4, 50x5
hypertrophy
incline press machine - 45x12, 45x11, 45x10
cable crosses - 40x12, 40x11
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 3/5
Saturday, June 28th
technical
dyno practice
boulder pyramid
4 V4, 2 V5, 1 V6, 1 V7, 1 V6, 2 V5, 4 V4
summary
was hungover but felt good after a loooong warm up
volume - 4/5, intensity - 3/5
Sunday, June 29th
technical
dyno practice
maximum strength
some hard problems
core problems
active rest
hit golf balls
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5
Summary
volume - 15, intensity - 15
June 17th - 24th, SPS max strength - shoulders, arms, corehypertrophy - back, chestboulder pyramidrunning - 1 mile, 1 mile, 1 mile
Monday, June 16th
active rest
setting routes at TRC
summary
volume - 1, intensity - 2
Tuesday, June 17th
hypertrophy
T-bar - 45x12, 50x11, 50x10, 45x11
narrow grip pull down - 110x11, 100x12, 100x11
shrugs - 155x12, 155x11, 155x10
maximum strength
reverse wrist curl - 15x5, 20x5, 20x4
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 2/5
Wednesday, June 18th, am
aerobic
run 1 mile
Wednesday, June 18th
stamina
boulder pyramid - 4 V3, 2 V4, 1 V5, 1 V6, 1 V5, 2 V4, 4 V3
summary
volume - 5/5, intensity - 5/5, worked all the new problems, worked mostly within the pyramid, felt extremely worked but woke up the next day quite fresh, slight elbow inflammation
Thursday, June 19th
active rest
driving range
summary
volume - 0/5, intensity - 0/5
Friday, June 20th
hypertrophy
incline press machine - 45x12, 45x11, 45x10
cable crosses - 40x12, 40x11
summary
volume - 1/5, intensity - 1/5
Sunday, June 22nd
performance @ Cotton Hill Top
Mass Destruction V1 flash
Taper Point V4
performance @ Cotton Hill Bottom
Gradient V7
performance @ Sumersville Lake, Orange Oswald
That Eight 5.7
Sniff the Drill 5.8
Chunko Goes Bowling 5.9, onsight
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5
Monday, June 23rd
performance @ Kaymoor, Butcher's Branch
Flight of the Gumbie 5.9, onsight
The Green Piece 5.10b, onsight
Low Voltage 5.10b, onsight
Sancho Belige 5.11b/c, onsight
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5
Best performance week ever. Sent hardest boulder and hardest routes for me. Training suffered, but well worth it. Feeling more and more confident on lead. Continue progressing.
Work load did not feel so intense as a 17, maybe need to reconsider what 5 represents in 1 to 5 scale.
volume - 15, intensity - 17
June 9th - June 16th, SPD max strength - shoulders, arms, corehypertrophy - back, chest bouldering 4x4 - brown V6, pink V4, red/purple V4, blue V4run - 1 mileMonday, June 9th, am hypertrophy
cable row - 100x12, 100x11, 100x11, 100x10
wide grip pull down - 100x12, 100x11, 100x11
shrugs - 155x12, 155x11, 155x10
maximum strength
wrist extension - 20x5, 20x4
wrist external rotation - 5, 4
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 2/5
Tuesday, June 10th, am
maximum strength
front lever practice
hypertrophy
decline press machine - 50x11, 50x11, 50x10?
dumb bell press - 50x12, 50x12, 50x10
cable fly - 40x11, 40x10
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5
Wednesday, June 11th
technical
did some shit
maximum strength
barbell biceps curl - 75x
barbell triceps extension - 75x
strength endurance
bouldering 4x4 - brown V6, pink V4, red/purple V4, blue V4
summaryit was very hot in the gym, also body didn't want to warm up, felt good once warm, slipped off holds during 4x4's due to heat
volume - 3/5, intensity - 5/5
Friday, June 13th
performance @ Moore's Wall Trail Side Boulder V1, onsight Trail Side Boulder traverse left V3 worked The Nick, quickly got to The Nick hold, stuck there worked middle problem on Masterlock wall problem behind R2V2 left V5 problem behind R2V2 right V4
summary volume - 3/5, intensity - 5/5
Saturday, June 14th
maximum strength shoulder dumbbell press - 40x5, 45x5, 50x5 plate side bends - 35x5, 35x5, 35x4 full body lifts - 5, 5 front lever - 4
hypertrophy decline machine press - 50x12
summary volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5
Sunday, June 15th, am aerobic run 1 mile
summary volume - 1/5, intensity - 1/5
Sunday, June 15th active rest setting routes
summary volume - 1/5, intensity -
Summary volume - 17, intensity - 20+
June 2nd - June 8th, SPD, start mesocycle
max strength - shoulders, arms, core
hypertrophy - back, chest
bouldering pyramid
Monday, June 2nd
aerobic
jogging 2 miles
summary
volume - 1/5, intensity - 1/5
Tuesday, June 3rd, am
hypertrophy
decline press - 135x12, 135x11, 135x10, 135x9
cable fly - 45x11, 40x11, 35x11
maximum strength
wrist dumbbell extension - 15x8, 17.5x5, 17.5x4
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 2/5
Tuesday, June 3rd
strength endurance
pilates
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 2/5, these two workouts took a lot out of me, felt very tired on Wednesday
Thursday, June 6th
technical/stamina
bouldering pyramid - 2 V3, 2V4, 3 V5, 1 V6, 1 V7, 2 V5, 2 V4, 2 V3
sent orange V7 project - YES, sent brown V6 3rd go
focus on movement initiation
maximum strength
barbell biceps curl - 65x5, 75x4, 75x5
dumb bell triceps extension - 30x4, 30x3, 30x3
summary
volume - 5/5, intensity - 5/5, felt sluggish warming up, but easing into the work started feeling better and better, felt very strong on the more difficult routes.
joints slightly sore the day after, one day of rest and all should be well.
Saturday, June 7th
maximum strength
work core problems
military press - 115x5, 125x5, 125x5, 125x4
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 3/5
Summary
volume - 13, intensity - 13; I really feel like this week I'm a V7 climber, all the hard moves I've been trying feel shorter
May 26th - June 1st, restorative
max strength - core
hypertrophy - shoulders, arms
Tuesday, May 27th
strength endurance
yoga
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 2/5
Wednesday, May 28th, am
aerobic
jogging
summary
volume - 1/5, intensity - 1/5
Wednesday, May 29th
active rest
bouldering at TRC
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5
Thursday, May 30th, am
hypertrophy
lying barbell triceps extension - 50x12, 50x12, 50x11, 40x12
concentration curl - 25x12, 25x10, 25x10, 20x12
one arm sitting dumb bell triceps extension - 25x12, 25x11, 25x10, 20x12
barbell curl - 50x12, 50x12, 50x11
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 2/5, right shoulder is sore somehow, feels like minor damage, does not hurt when exercising
Saturday, May 31st
power
dyno practice
maximum strength
core problems
threshold bouldering
hypertrophy
dumb bell shoulder press - 30x12, 30x12, 30x11, 30x11
side shoulder raise - 20x12, 20x12, 20x10
shrugs - 145x12, 145x12, 145x12
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 3/5
aerobic
jogging - 1 mile
summary
volume - 1/5, intensity - 1/5
Sunday, June 1st
performance @ Endless Wall in New River Gorge
Discombobulated 5.11a, 2nd attempt
Legacy 5.11a, on sight
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 3/5; felt very tired, little sleep as this was a day trip. More sleep would have helped.
Summary
volume - 13, intensity - 15, good rest week, poor warm up on Sunday inflamed the joints, but all should be well for hard training on Tuesday.
Elbows are fine, only pain is left index finger, starting to get better. Just no crimps on left hand!
May 19th - 25th, performance
hypertrophy - shoulders, arms
4x4's
Monday, May 19th
maximum strength
clean & jerk - 115x5, 125x4, 125x4, 125x5
leg curl - 50x5, 60x4
hypertrophy
lying triceps extension, dual dumbbells - 25x9, 20x11, 20x10, 20x10
concentration curls - 25x12, 25x11, 20x11
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 4/5
Tuesday, May 20th, am
aerobic
yoga - 15 minutes, jogging - 1 mile
summary
volume - 1/5, intensity - 1/5
Tuesday, May 20th
technical
climbing at VE
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5
Wednesday, May 21st
technical
smooth out two V4's, one V5
strength endurance
concentrate on efficiency of movement
4x4's - pink, black/yellow, red/purple, far left V3
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 4/5
Thursday, May 22nd
active rest @ Moore's Wall
Stickman V4
V3P0 V3
V4P0 V4
summary
volume - 1/5, intensity - 1/5
Friday, May 23rd
performance @ Red River Gorge
All Cows Eat Grass 5.8, onsight
Ledger Line 5.7, onsight
You Can Tune a Piano But You Can't Tunafish 5.10b, onsight
AWOL 5.10a
Crazy Fingers 5.10c, flash
Pulling Pockets 5.10d, flash
summary
volume - 5/5, intensity - 4/5
Saturday, May 24th
active rest @ Hawks Nest Dam
about 6 warm ups
slab problems
Leaving Las Fayetteville V5
active rest @ Summersville Lake
Sniff the Drill 5.8, top rope flash
Orange Oswald 5.10a, top rope flash
Hippie Dreams 5.7, flash
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 1/5
Sunday, May 25th
performance @ Bubba City
Learning Curve 5.8
Peanut Bubba and Jam 5.8, top rope flash
The Icon of Control 5.10c, top rope flash
Bugerschnatz 5.10d, flash
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 4/5
Summary
volume - 18, intensity - 22
In the middle of the week I felt that my joints were not holding up, and would maybe get very sore on the long weekend trip. I was able to moderate load on May 24th, and was able to climb hard again on May 25th (at low volume) with no pain. After one day of rest, I feel 100%, save for the left index finger which has been injured. Conclusion is that my joints are getting stronger, and have adapted somewhat to higher training volumes.
May 12th - 18th, SPS
max strength - bench press, weighted pullups
hypertrophy - shoulders, arms
8x6's
Monday May 12th
maximum strength
reverse biceps curl - 50x4, 50x4, 60x1, 50x3
external wrist rotation - 4, 3
hypertrophy
lying front shoulder raise - 12.5x12, 15x
shoulder dumbbell press - 30x12, 25x
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 2/5
Tuesday May 13th, am
aerobic
good yoga warm up and stretching
jogging about 2 miles
summary
volume - 1/5, intensity - 1/5
Tuesday, May 13th
active rest
climbed with Patrick
send blue V5 project - felt easy
summary
for some reason I wasn't super psyched, but I felt pretty strong. didn't eat enough during the day I think. Ready to push to V7 consolidation.
volume - 2/5, intensity - 2/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 1/10
Wednesday, May 14th
strength endurance
7 problems 5 times - V2 feels almost the continuous climbing level, must bump up this workout
summary
set a couple of boulders, worked them V5ish, V3ish
volume - 3/5, intensity - 4/5, elbows - 1/10, fingers - 2/10, right ring finger irritated, left index worse, decrese intensity?
Thursday, May 15th
maximum strength
lower back extension - 4x25, 4x25, 3x25
hypertrophy
lying triceps extension - 50x12, 50x11, 50x10, 40x12
biceps curl - 50x12, 50x12, 50x11, 50x11
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 2/5, elbows - 1/10
Friday, May 16th
maximum strength
weighted wide grip pull ups - 60
weighted narrow grip pull ups - 60
hypertrophy
rear deltoid shoulder raises -
shrugs -
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 3/5
Saturday, May 17th
technical
dyno practice
maximum strength
bench press - 185x5, 190x4, 195x3, 185x5
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 4/5
Sunday, May 18th
performance @ Moore's Wall
House arete right V4
House arete center V4
The Hustler V5, 3rd attempt
V3P0 V3 flash
V4P0 V4, 2nd attempt
Got Your Back V4, flash
R2V2 V2 flash
Corridor V3 flash
Boone Lunge V4, 4th? attempt
Turdslinger V3, flash
Jay-Z V5, flash
Triple X V4, flash
Boy Love V5, 2nd attempt
summary
volume - 4/5, intensity - 4/5, felt fantastic, nothing felt very hard, didn't wear self out, great day
Summary
volume - 18, intensity - 20
great training week, body stood up to increased volume very well. 15 volume should be a minimum goal. fat is down too, thanks to swimming, running, and slightly to the diet
left index finger is not healing, may require some down time
elbows feel strong
May 5th - 11th, SPD
max strength - bench press, weighted pull ups
hypertrophy - shoulders, arms
8x6's
Monday May 5th, am
aerobic
swimming - 15 minutes
hypertrophy
lying front raise - 12.5x12, 12.5x12, 12.5x12, 12.5x10
shoulder dumb bell press - 25x12, 25x11, 25x10
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 2/5
Tuesday, May 6th, am
aerobic
swimming - 20 minutes
hypertrophy
biceps curls - 25x12, 25x11, 25x10, 20x11
one arm cable triceps extension - 20x12, 20x11, 20x10
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 2/5
Wednesday, May 7th
technical
lots of top roping, mastering routes, good work
special endurance
6x8's - completed most of five laps, skipped last problem on last round, felt just right
summary
volume - 4/5, intensity - 3/5, finger is feeling better, must continue to tape it, elbow pain - 0/10
Saturday, May 10th, am
aerobic
jogging - about 2 miles
summary
volume - 1/5, intensity - 1/5
Saturday, May 10th
technical
maximum strength
bench press - 185x5, 190x4, 195x3, 185x5
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5, fingers and elbows feel pretty good, left index still slightly sore
Summary
total volume - 14, total intensity - 11
overall feeling more confident on established grades, endurance improving, feeling more light
4th week of April - SPS
Tuesday, April 22nd
am - fitness, swimming
strength endurance
pilates
maximum strength
reverse biceps curl - 50x5, 50x5, 60x4, 60x3
biceps curl - 80x4, 80x3
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5, elbow pain - 1/10, left index finger pain - 4/10, must rest for finger
Wednesday, April 23rd
technical/active rest
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 3/5
Thursday, April 24th
performance - bouldering @ 2 Mile
Stickman mantle V3
Stickman V4
Euro wall face of crack V3
Euro wall right of crack V6
Euro wall middle right V4
Euro wall middle left V4
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5, joint pain - just left index finger, taping helps
great day bouldering, did all the problems fairly quickly
Summary
volume - 8, intensity - 9, strength gains are apparent this week, feeling stronger on V6 moves
3rd week of April - SPD
Monday, April 21st am
maximum strength
metolius medium hangboard workout
summary
volume - 1/5, intensity - 3/5, finger pain - 1/10
felt a bit weak, felt good to get warm in the morning though
Monday, April 21st
maximum strength
wrist extension - 15x5, 20x4, 20x4, 20x3
reverse biceps curl - 50x5
external rotation - 4, 4, 3
clean & jerk - 115x5, 125x4, 125x3, 135x1
hypertrophy
biceps curl - 30x12, 25x11, 25x10
triceps extension - 25x12, 25x12, 25x12, 25x11
shrugs - 135x12, 145x11, 145x11
summary
volume - 4/5, intensity - 4/5, elbow pain - 3/10, finger pain - 1/10; finger feels fine, elbows slightly sore
Wednesday, April 23rd
technical
maximize use of legs on 4 V3's, 2 V4's, 1 V5
maximum strength
threshold bouldering and max out bouldering - V8 crimper, new V6 on the corner, no more than 8 total reps
did easy routes
summary
generally feeling healthy and strong, elbows were a bit sore after several hard workouts, but feel strong now, low low energy level, long days at work, bailed on workout, made this an active rest day
volume - 3/5, intensity - 2/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 1/10 - left index,
Thursday, April 24th
maximum strength
did some hard bouldering, felt much better than the day before, did some hard stuff
biceps curl - 55x5, 65x4, 65x3
triceps extension - 55x5, 65x4, 65x4
summary
felt much better than the day before, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 1/10, energy level - 7/10
Sunday, April 27th
Technical
worked red route
worked black route
did some other easy routes
did some lead
bench press, 185x5, 185x4, 190x3, 185x2
summary
volume - 5/5, intensity - 4/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 1/10, energy level - 10/10
felt great, climbed LOTS, will be very sore
Summary
total volume -
2nd week of April - SPD, emergency pager this week
Monday, April 14th
maximum strength
wrist extension - 15x5, 20x4, 20x4, 15x4
external rotation - 4, 4, 3
clean & jerk - 135x5, 145x4
hypertrophy
shoulder lying front raise - 12.5x10, 10x10, 10x10
shoulder lying side raise - 12.5x10, 10x11, 10x10
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 0/10, energy level - 7/10
finger was not sore at all the day after the hard workout on Saturday, Monday during the day was a bit sore to the touch, now feels great
Tuesday, April 15th
full body strength endurance
pilates
hypertrophy
cable fly -
decline machine -
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5,
Thursday, April 17th
performance @ Moore's
three easy trad pitches
two runs on Stars and Bars, figured out some beta, route is gonna be very hard for me
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 4/5, elbow pain - 1/10, left index finger pain - 2/10, probably bruised
Saturday, April 19th
technical
movement practice on some easy 0's and 1's
projected new V6
power endurance
4x7, all V2's plus start of blue lead route
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 4/5, elbow pain - 1/10, left index finger - 1/10, slight pulley tweak
Summary
total volume - 11
intensity - 14
This was a special preparatory developing week, high intensity level, lots of rest though
1st week of April
Wednesday, April 9th
technical/performance at TRC
strength endurance - 4x4's, felt very easy, step it up to 6x8's
summary
volume - 2/5, intensity - 3/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 2/10
Thursday, April 10th
max strength
reverse biceps curls - 40x5, 50x5, 60x3, 60x2, 50x4
wrist extension - 20x5, 20x4
wrist external rotation - 5, 4, 4
ab side knee ups - 3, 4, 3
ab front - 4, 4, 4
hypertrophy
dumbbell press - 40x12, 40x12, 40x11
summary
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 1/10
Saturday, April 12th
power
dyno practice
warm up - practice pressing & pacing, 4 V2, 2 V3, 1 V4
1 V5, 1 V6, 1V8 - frew tries on hard problems
cool down - V5, 2 V4, 4V2/V3
max strength
weighted wide grip pullups - 60x4, 60x3, 60x3
weighted narrow grip chinups - 60x4, 60x4, 60x3
bench press - 185x4, 185x5, 185x4
summary
feel ready to get stronger, joints feel solid, finger not great but feels ready for work, psychologically motivated
felt great, climbed hard, didn't send projects but made progress
volume - 4/5, intensity - 4/5, elbow pain - 2/10, finger pain - 0/10
Weekly Summary
volume - 9, intensity - 3, max strength week, must go easy next week, high volume and endurance training
4/6/08
performance @ Summersville Lake
She Got the Bosch, I Got Drilled 5.10a
volume - 1/5, intensity - 2/5, energy level - 5/10, went too hard previous day
4/5/08
performance @ Hawk's Nest
lots of warm up V0's, V1's, V2's
V2 slab
Leg Compactor V1
Tinkerbell V5
Steel Fingers V4
Leaving Las Fayetteville V5
Parochial Verbiage V3
made first move of Time of Death low start static, linked to right hand popping off, must work this move
Mortal Kombat V6
volume - 4/5, intensity - 5/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 0/10, energy level - 8/10
4/2/08
technical
smooth out two V3's
strength endurance @ TRC
4x4 - V4 - pink, V2 - yellow, V4 - dark green, V1 - brown
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5, elbow pain - 0/10, finger pain - 2/10, energy level - 8/10
4/1/08
hypertrophy
wide grip pulldown
barbell rows
shrugs
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5
3/30/08
power at TRC
dyno practice
some sport - pressing, blue route, pink route
max out bouldering - blue route, orange route
some finger work
clean & jerk
hypertrophy
dumbbell press - 50x12, 50x11, 50x10
shoulder dumbbell press - 35x12, 35x10, 35x9
shoulder raises - 15x12, 15x11, 15x10
volume - 4/5, intensity - 4/5, elbow pain - 0/10, finger pain - 2/10, energy level - 7/10
3/28/08
active rest
hard climbing @ TRC
wasn't very strong, wasn't very motivated
volume - 5/5, intensity - 4/5, energy level - 4/10, elbow pain - 0/10, finger pain - 1/10, finger is not improving or degrading
3/25/08
strength endurance
yoga
maximum strength
wrist extension - 15x5, 17.5x4, 17.5x3
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5, energy level - ,elbow pain - 0, finger pain - 1/10
3/23/08
maximum strength @ TRC
worked on orange V6
worked on blue V7
sent green with black stripe V6
did some finger work
volume - 3/5, intensity - 4/5, energy level - 8/10, elbow pain - 0, finger pain - 1/10
3/22/08
performance @ Sauratown
warmed up on wet route 5.9
wet route 5.9
took one fall on right of Kish Dish 5.11c
red point right of Kish Dish 5.11a
top roped Old Man Sport 5.10d
volume - 2/5, intensity - 3/5, energy level - 7/10, elbow pain - 0, finger pain - 0
3/20/08
maximum strength
worked the orange V6 problem
sent the blue V6 problem
strength endurance
4x4's, felt much better than previous week
volume - 3/5, intensity - 4/5, energy level - 8/10, elbow pain - 0, finger pain - 2/10
3/18/08
maximum strength
forearm extension - 15x5, 17.5x5
strength endurance
yoga/pilates
volume - 3/5, intensity - 4/5, energy level - 7/10, elbow pain - 0, finger pain - 1/10
3/17/08
endurance
swimming - 20 minutes
hypertrophy
dumbbell press
dumbbell incline press
volume - 3/5, intensity - 4/5, energy level - 7/10, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 2/10
3/16/08
endurance
swimming - 20 minutes
hypertrophy
individual cable rows
individual cable pull downs
dumbbell shrugs
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5, energy level - 7/10, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 2/10
3/13/08
technical
worked hard moves on some problems
did a couple V5/V6 problems
strength endurance
4x4s - V4, V3, V3, V2
3/11/08
maximum strength
reverse forearm curls - 40x5, 50x5, 50x4, 50x4
wrist external rotation - 5
strength endurance
pilates
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 3/10, energy level - 7/10
3/8/08
maximum strength @ TRC
tried some comp problems, V6, V6, several V2-V5
volume - 3/5, intensity - 5/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 5/10, energy level - 8/10
3/6/08
maximum strength @ TRC
forerunning problems for the comp
about 3 V4/V5, about 6 V6/V7, and maybe 1 V8
volume - 4/5, intensity - 5/5, elbow pain - 0/10, finger pain - 3/10, energy level - 8/10
3/4/08
active rest @ TRC
volume - 2/5, intensity - 3/5, elbow pain - 0/10, finger pain - 2/10, energy level - 3/10
3/2/08
power @ Hawksnest Dam
good warm up
#114 V3 slab
Parochial Verbiage V3
Precious V5
Beach Ball Physics V6
worked Southern X Posure - so close!
Leaving Las Fayetteville V5, static, first go - felt so easy
Pucker Face V3, static
volume - 4/5, intensity - 5/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 1/10, energy level - 10/10
2/28/08
strength endurance @ TRC
warmed up
worked some moves on the brown project
did a lead warm up - red
attempted blue lead route - fell on crux move, but worked out beta, maybe send next time
4x4's
red V5, yellow V3, green/brown V3, brown/orange V2 - 2 mins 20 seconds
red V5, green/brown V3, yellow v3, brown/orange V2 - fail
red V5, yellow V3 - fail, green/brown V3 - fail, brown/orange V2
yellow V3, green/brown V3, brown/orange V2
volume - 4/5, intensity - 4/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 1/10, energy level - 9/10
2/26/08
max strength @ TRC
worked brown project - linked up to last move
one set up downs on campus board
two sets of pinch max strength
hypertrophy
barbell rows - 75x12, 85x12, 85x10, 85x10
dumbbell rows - 55x9, 45x10
wide grip pullups - 12, 11, 10
volume - 4/5, intensity - 4/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 1/10, energy level - 10/10
2/24/08
climbing @ TRC
another light workout to get the feel back
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5, joint pain - 0/10, energy level - 5/10
2/21/08
climbing @ TRC
first day back from being sick, very light workout
volume - 1/5, intensity - 3/5, joint pain - 0/10, energy level - 3/10
2/16/08
climbing @ Castle Rock
warm up boulder V2
warm up boulder V4
tall problem V3
hard top out V4
volume - 4/5, intensity - 3/5, joint pain - 0/10, energy level - 9/10
2/13/08
hypertrophy
cable chest flies - 27.5x12, 32.5x11, 32.5x11
incline dumbbell press - 40x12, 40x11, 40x11
shoulder side raise - 15x12, 15x11, 15x10
volume - 2/5, intensity - 3/5, joint pain - 0/10, energy level - 9/10
2/9/08
technical @ Pilot Mountain
5.6 warmup - TR
5.8 warmup - TR
Middle Bear 10.d - TR
Right Bear 11.a - TR
Middle Bear 10.d - TR
Devil in the White House 10.d - flash
Black Rain 11.a - TR
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5, elbow pain - 0/10, finger pain - 1/10, energy level - 7/10
2/7/08
stamina @ TRC
bouldering pyramid
4 V3, 2 V4 - brown yellow, green (failed), 1 V5 - dark green (failed), 1 V6 - pink (failed), 1 V5 - white, 2 V4, 4 V3
technical
pressing
movement initiation in lumbar
movement initiation in legs
volume - 5/5, intensity - 4/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 2/10, energy level - 9/10, felt very tired next day, muscles beat
2/5/08
climbing @ TRC
attempted hard sport routes
volume - 4/5, intensity - 5/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 1/10, energy level - 9/10
2/4/08
hypertrophy
ab cable crunches - 42.5x11, 50x10, 42.5x12
hanging side knee ups - 11
forearm curls - 50x12, 60x8, 50x11, 50x11
volume - 4/5, intensity - 3/5, joint pain - 0/10, energy level - 8/10
2/2/08
hypertrophy
cable fly - 40x12, 40x11
dumbbell incline press - 40x12, 35x10, 35x9
decline machine - 40x12, 40x10
volume - 2/5, intensity - 4/5, elbow pain - 0/10, finger pain - , energy level - 7/10
1/30/08
active rest - yoga
struggled, didn't eat well, volume - 2/5, intensity - 2/5, elbow pain - 0/10, finger pain - 2/10, energy level - 2/10
1/29/08
technical @ TRC
worked on initiating movement with legs
worked the Seth's new route
volume - 3/5, intensity - 4/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 3/10, energy level - 7/10
1/28/08
hypertrophy
barbell rows - 70x12, 70x11, 70x10
1/27/08
power @ Asheboro
warmed up
Lightning Bolt V3, 4th try?
crux move on Crimper's Paradise
worked moves on FUSP
worked moves on Flying Saucer sit start
volume - 3/5, intensity - 4/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 1/10, energy level - 7/10
1/24/08
active rest - TRC
white V5 problem
some hard 5.10's
some easier routes
volume - 4/5, intensity - 4/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 2/10, energy level - 7/10
1/24/08 - am
hypertrophy
cable flies - 45x12, 50x11, 50x10
incline dumbbell press - 40x11, 35x11, 35x10
shoulder side raise - 25x10, 25x9, 25x9
volume - 2/5, intensity - 4/5, elbow pain - 0/10, finger pain - 0/10, energy level - 5/10
1/22/08
technique
worked on initiating movement with legs - only tried a few times, then tried some hard boulder problems
did a couple lead routes, clipping technique is good
maximum strength
campus board up/downs - 3, 3, 3
pinch hangs - 4, 4
sloper hangs - 4, 4
intensity - 3/5, volume - 2/5, elbow pain - 0/10, finger pain - 2/10, energy level - 6/10
1/22/08 - am
hypertrophy
ab cable crunch - 55x12, 62.5x11, 62.5x10, 55x12
ab rotator machine - 90x12, 100x12
intensity - 2/5, volume - 1/5, pain - 0/10, energy level - 9/10
1/20/08
hypertrophy
triceps extension - 17.5x12, 20x11, 20x10
biceps curl - 20x12, 25x11, 25x11
intensity - 2/5, volume - 1/5, elbow pain - 0, finger pain - 0, energy level - 8/10
1/17/08
active rest @ TRC
intensity - 2/5, volume - 3/5, elbow pain - 0/10, finger pain - 2/10, energy level - 7/10
1/15/08
active rest @ Vertical Edge
intensity - 2/5, volume - 2/5, elbow pain - 0/10, finger pain - 2/10, energy level - 6/10
1/5/08
performance @ Moore's Wall
House warm up V0
House warm up V0
House arete left V3
worked House right of warm up V5
Duck Soup Traverse V6
intensity - 2/5, volume - 1/5, elbow pain - 0/10, finger pain - 3/10, energy level - 6/10
1/3/08
performance @ TRC
sent V6 project
worked 5.12 project
strength endurance
4x4's, V3, V3, V2, V3; failed on final two attempts of second V3, 2:15 intervals
volume - 4/5, intensity - 5/5, elbow pain - 3/10, finger pain - 3/10, shoulder pain - 1/10, energy level - 7/10; maybe felt more tired because of great effort on projects, NEED SLEEP & low volume days
1/1/08
climbing @ Roxboro
3 problems on the warm up wall - V1, V1, V1
right side link up from far right stand start - V2
middle problem sit start - V3
left side sit start - V2
two pocket problems - V0, V2
tall easy - V0
short steep in the middle - V2
hard roof problem, not from the lowest start - V3
two main roof problems - V2, V2
short roof with hard mantel - V3
slappy problem down hill V0
volume - 4/5, intensity - 2/5, elbow pain - 0/10, finger pain - 0/10, energy level - 8/10, felt great, everything felt easy
12/30/07
active rest
swimming - 10 minutes
hypertrophy
machine rows - 12, 11, 10
cable flies - 10, 9, 8, 8
ab machine - 11, 10, 10, 10
volume - 2/5, intensity - 3/5 (chest), elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 0/10, energy level - 7/10
12/29/07
technical
movement initiation - lots and lots of routes, using legs to initiate movement
clipping and pressing
maximum strength
V6 project, one great burn, slipped off last move, felt too hot
volume - 5/5, intensity - 3/5, elbow pain - 0/10, finger pain - 0/10, energy level - 8/10
12/27/07
technical
movement initiation
clipping and pressing
strength endurance
4x4 - V3, V3, V2, V3, 2:20 intervals, failed on last go
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5, elbow pain - 1/10, finger pain - 0/10, energy level - 6/10
12/26/07
hypertrophy
narrow grip pulldowns - 100x11, 95x11, 95x10
dumbbell incline press - 45x12, 45x11, 45x10, 45x9
dumbbell shrugs - 60x12, 60x11
volume - 2/5, intensity - 3/5, elbow pain - 0/10, energy level - 7/10, finger pain - 0/10
12/24/07
maximum strength
metolius intro workout
metolius intermediate workout
volume - 1/5, intensity - 3/5, elbow pain - 1/10, energy level - 7/10, finger pain - 2/10
12/22/07
maximum strength
worked moves on V8 and almost finished V6
hypertrophy
dumbbell incline press, 45x12, 45x11, 45x10
t-bar, 55x12, 55x11, 45x12
volume - 3/5, intensity - 2/5, elbow pain - 2/10, energy level - 6/10
12/20/07
technical
did the dark green V5 in three tries
lots of easy routes, initiating movement with the legs, pressing
lots of V3 problems, pressing
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5, elbow pain - 1/10, energy level - 6/10
12/18/07
technical
pressing & clipping - was able to carry over the pressing technique into 4x4's, keeping core tension helped when tired
initiating movement with the legs - practice this more
strength endurance
V3, V3, V2, V2, ~2:45 intervals
volume - 4/5, intensity - 3/5, elbow pain - 3/10, energy level - 3/10
12/17/07
maximum strength
metolius intro hang board workout - easy
metolius intermediate hang board workout - almost got it
wrist extension - 15x7, 15x7, 15x7
external rotation - 4, 3
volume - 2/5, intensity - 2/5, elbow pain - 1/10, energy level - 9/10
12/16/07
hypertrophy
wide grip pulldown - 100x12, 100x11, 100x10
maximum strength
bench - 185x6, 205x4, 205x3, 185x6
incline one arm dumbbell press - 35x15, 45x10, 50x7
incline dumbbell flies - 30x10, 35x8
volume - 3/5, intensity - 4/5, elbow pain - 3/10
12/15/07
active rest
climbing @ TRC
some 5.7/5.8 climbs
overhanging 5.10
several V0's, V1's, V2's
volume- 1/5, intensity - 1/5, elbow pain - 1/10
12/14/07
maximum strength
25 pound laybacks- 5, 6, 5, 5
25 pound side bends- 5, 5, 5
leg curl- 55x7, 70x5, 70x6
hypertrophy
forearm curl- 60x12, 70x11, 70x10, 70x9, 60x12
incline dumbbell press- 45x12, 45x11, 45x10, 45x9
lying front shoulder raise- 15x12, 15x11
side shoulder raise- 15x12, 15x11
volume - 2/5, intensity - 2/5
12/13/07
active rest - technical
arching the back
drop knees
two lead routes - practice clipping with pressing
2 V3 boulder problems - as efficiently as possible
volume - 2/5, intensity - 2/5
12/13/07 - am
active rest
20 pilates pushups
metolius 10 minute fingerboard intro workout
20 spider pushups
wrist extension - 15x6, 15x5, 15x5
write external rotation - 5, 5, 5
20 triceps pushups
volume - 1/5, intensity - 1/5, elbow pain - 3/10
12/11/07
maximum strength
blue V4 on back side of boulder at TRC
power
mantle V7 underneath arch
volume - 2/5, intensity - 4/5, elbow soreness - 4/10, need to dial back volume, intensity, dial up rest
12/9/07
technical
leading at TRC
strength endurance
4x4 - v3, v2, v2, v1
3:30 laps/rests, next time do v3, v3, v2, v2
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5, back muscles sore 7/10, elbows feel great, cool water treatment two times 30 minutes
12/8/07
maximum strength
bouldering at TRC
technical
line and flag
movement initiation
volume - 3/5, intensity - 3/5
12/5/07 - am
morning workout
60 pushups
Metolius 10 minute moderate routine
1/5 volume, 2/5 intensity
12/4/07 - am
morning workout
60 pushups
Metolius 10 minute moderate routine
1/5
12/2/07
active rest
screwed around @ Roxboro
1/5, right elbow 2/10
12/1/07
performance @ Moore's Wall
worked 5.12c to complete failure, two tries
worked Duck Soup traverse to failure, two tries
intensity - 5/5, volume - 1/5, right elbow pain - 1/10
11/29/07
technical
line & flag exercise
pressing exercise
strength endurance
4x4
intensity - 3/5, volume - 3/5, excellent workout
11/27/07
maximum strength
biceps reverse curl, 50x7, 60x2, 60x2, 50x6
strength endurance
pilates
intensity - 4/5, volume - 4/5, hit a wall during Pilates, couldn't recover, need serious rest
11/26/07
technical
line & flag
pressing
maximum strength
boulder project, ease off when tired
intensity - 4/5
volume - 3/5
11/26/07 - am
morning routine
2/5
11/25/07
strength endurance
pilates
hypertrophy
forearm curl, 65x12, 75x12, 75x11, 70x12, 70x10
standing bar row, 80x12, 80x12, 80x12, 80x12
2/5
11/19/07
maximum strength
forearm extension - 40x5, 30x7, 30x7, 30x7, 40x5
power
clean & jerk - 115x10, 115x8
maximum strength
military press -
leg curl
hypertrophy
triceps
11/18/07
hypertrophy
forearm curls
incline dumbbell press
cable fly machine
11/17/07
maximum strength
climbing @ Moore's Wall
House Boulder
warm up V1
arete right V4
right of warm up V5
roof V5
worked Duck Soup traverse V6
Valley
worked Boulder B, right side start on block go up to right V6
3/5, slight tweak in left elbow, good forearm work today
11/15/07
technique
break down two routes
strength endurance
boulder 4x4, yellow auto belay, white with red diagonal stripe, white with red, balancey sequence on right boulder wall
3/5, perfect intensity level for a good endurance day, do slightly more difficult boulder problems for 4x4's next time
11/14/07
maximum strength
shoulder press - 95x7, 105x7, 115x6, 125x4, 125x3, 95x7
rear lever practice - 3, 3, right arm went numb, wtf?
front lever practice, bent knees - 4, 3, 3, 3
hypertrophy
forearm curl - 50x12, 60x12, 60x12, 70x11, 70x10, 70x10
dumbbell press - 50x12, 55x11, 55x10, 50x10
3/5, right elbow slight pain, overall body feels great, need low intensity day tomorrow.
11/14/07 - am
strength endurance
metolius hang board workout
2/5
11/13/07 - am
active rest
jogging
0/5
11/12/07
maximum strength
reverse biceps curl, 60x5, 50x7, 50x7
leg curl, 25x8, 35x8, 50x8
power
clean & jerk, 115x8, 115x8
hypertrophy
shoulder raise, 20x12, 20x11, 20x10, 20x10
dumbbell press, 45x12, 45x12, 45x11, 45x10
3/5, elbows are slightly sore, no pain during or after workout though, quality > quantity, muscles feel very sore
11/12/07 - am
strength endurance
metolius 10 minute hang board workout
2/5
11/10/07
maximum strength
climbing @ Moore's Wall
house boulder warm up V1
house arete right V3
house arete left V3
worked Duck Soup V6
worked Piss & Vinegar V7
worked Vandal V7
Valley warm up arete right V2
4/5, elbows feel great, tried lots of hard stuff, warmed up slow, good rests, quality > quantity
11/8/07
technical
routes @ VE
3/5
11/7/07
hypertrophy
narrow grip pulldown - 110x12, 100x11, 100x10
shrug - 135x12, 135x11, 135x10
cable row - 110x10, 100x10, 100x9
1/5
11/6/07
strength endurance
pilates
hypertrophy
shoulder press
forearm curl
3/5, epicondyles slightly tweaked the next morning, left shoulder tweaked
11/6/07 - am
power
medicine ball up downs (core), 12x10, 16x8, 16x7
maximum strength
reverse biceps curl, 40x7, 50x7, 50x7
shoulder stabilizers
wrist pronation, 7, 7
2/5, slight tweak in right epicondyle
11/5/07
maximum strength
metolius finger workout
2/5, everything felt perfect
11/3/07
maximum strength - bouldering @ Asheboro
good warmup on warmup boulder, 4-5 problems
dihedral problem V2, retro flash
lightning bolt V3
green seam V4, retro flash
crimper's paradise V4
flying saucer V3, retro flash
flying saucer V3
Larry King V5, 2nd try
4/5, joints felt fine, slightly inflamed, no real pain, left shoulder strained
11/1/07
Technique - Climbing
endurance - 30 minutes on wall
technique - broke down two routes
4/5, high volume, low intensity
10/31/07
Combo Strength
power
depth jumps
side jumps over step platform
max strength
max strength leg curls
hypertrophy
shoulder press
side raises
2/5
10/30/07
Maximum Strength
front lever practice, 3, 4, 5, 5
side bend, 25 pounds, 7, 6, 5, 5
ab machine, 3 sets
reverse curls, 40x8, 50x7, 50x7
pronation, 7, 6, 5
2/5
10/28/07
Routes @ Roadside Crag
Kampsight 5.9+
Kampsight 5.9+ TR
AWOL 5.10a
AWOL 5.10a TR
Routes @ Muir Valley
5th Bolt Faith 5.10c
3/5
10/27/07
Bouldering @ Hawksnest Dam
Warmup boulder
Ikea Solution V1
Son of Easy V0 -> four? different ways
Arch V0
worked Mortal Kombat V6
Leaving Las Fayetteville V5
Bouldering @ Burnwood
Super Happy Funball V3
Brain Fart V4
3/5
10/24/07
Strength Endurance - Yoga
3/5
10/21/07
Climbing @ Asheboro
lightning V3
arete next to slab V2
worked some other stuff
2/5, elbow was a bit sore
10/20/07
Climbing @ Inner Peaks, Charlotte
good warmup bouldering, some routes mostly for endurance
some very hard boulders, V7, V6, V6 lots of V0-V4
5/5, right elbow slightly tweaky
10/18/07
Climbing @ VE
lots of bouldering, some routes
4/5
10/17/07
Power
lock off pullups, 8, 8, 8, 6
power clean, 115x9, 115x8, 115x7, 115x8
external rotation, 7, 7, 6, 5
2/5
10/16/07
Maximum Strength
smith incline bench, 120x7, 130x6, 140x5, 140x5, 140x2
machine shoulder press, 80x7, 90x6, 90x5, 90x4
one arm cable row, 50x7, 57.5x5, 50x7, 50x6
3/5
10/13/07
Climbing at RRG, Muir Tectonic Wall
onsite 5th Bolt Faith 5.10c
onsite Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky 5.10c
onsite Plate Tectonics 5.9+
redpoint on tr Plate Tectonics 5.9+
3/5, elbows slightly inflamed, very minor damage
10/12/07
Climbing at RRG, Roadside
1 rest Kampsight 5.9+
onsite AWOL 5.10a
3/5
10/10/07
Max Strength
front levers, knees bent, 6, 6, 6, 5, 5
overhead side bends, 25x7, 35x6, 35x5, 35x4, 25x6
twist machine, 130x7, 140x6, 150x5, 150x5
3/5
10/08/07
Climbing at Vertical Edge
bouldering, worked project
some open hand training
4/5
10/7/07
Climbing at Moore's Wall - 2 Mile
hiked 2 miles in (obviously), did mostly low intensity stuff, didn't warm up too well, still felt fine
Mr Roboto Wall?
far right Roboto? Wall, V1
Mr Roboto? V4
two attempts on Roboto Traverse? V5
big dyno problem V3
First Boulder Near Euro Wall
arete V3
backside right V1
4/5
10/3/07
Strength - climbing at VE
4/5
9/30/07
Endurance - Climbing at Sauratown
worked Made In the Shade 5.8
worked Always Wet 5.9
red point Old Man Belay 5.10
worked left of Old Man Belay, 5.10
House Boulder Arete @ Moore's Wall
Sent House Arete Right V4
Second try House Arete Left V4
5/5, joints felt fine, next day slight soreness in elbows
9/27/07
Strength - Climbing at VE
Did a few routes, they felt hard. Then bouldered a lot, felt great, no pain in elbows at all, did some really hard stuff.
5/5, finger pain (back of fingers) 5/10
9/25/07
Strength Endurance, Pilates
4/5
9/24/07
Technique, Climbing at VE
bouldered, focus on using core and open hand
4/5
9/23/07
Climbing at Grandmother
arete problem V3
small roof problem V2
bookshelf problem V1
next to bookshelf problem V2
bookshelf highball V2
Big Guns static V4
Stumpy static V4
9/18/07
Strength Endurance - Pilates
3/5, felt great
9/17/07
Technique - Climbing at VE
using back and core, open hand
9/16/07
Climbed at Moore's Wall - Valley
2nd try, easy roof problem, V2
sent face/corner problem on tall boulder, V2
2nd try, warm-up right, V2
sent warm-up center, V3
sent warm-up left, V3
sent warm-up roof left V3
sent warm-up roof right V1
sent warm-up slab right V1
sent warm-up slab left V1
worked Vandal V7
3/5, right elbow slightly sore next morning
9/14/07
Strength
climbed at Vertical Edge. Worked on using back more than arms, worked on long pressing moves, felt great.
did finger workout
4/5, elbows slightly sore
9/13/07
Active Rest
climbed at rock yard, 5 hours of sleep, felt very tired and weak
3/5, both biceps felt sore, more muscle than joint soreness
9/11/07
Strength Endurance
hypertrophy
forearms - 60x12, 70x12, 70x11, 70x10, 60x12
pilates
3/5, biceps felt tender after pilates, no noticeable pain in elbows or fingers
9/10/07
Technique
climbing at VE, very light day
2/5
9/9/07
Speed Strength
dip jump & campus pullups, 8, 7, 6, 5
depth jumps, 15, 12, 15
Hypertrophy
lie down front raises, 17.5x9, 12.5x11, 12.5x10
side raises, 15x10, 15x9
incline dumbbell press, 50x11, 45x11, 45x10
4/5
9/6/07
Strength
Core, 4 or 5 sets on extensions
Hypertrophy
wide grip pulldowns, 120x12, 120x11, 115x11, 110x10
bar rows, 45x12, 55x11, 55x10, 45x11
forearm curls, 70x12, 70x11, 70x11, 70x11, 70x11
4/5
9/2/07
Bouldering at Cotton Hill Bottom
Cross Section V5
Bouldering at Hawk's Nest
The Mangler V6
problem 114 Slab V3
Parochial Verbiage V3
failed Time of Death Low Start V6
retro flash Pucker Face Sit Start V3
Leaving Las Fayetteville V5
5/5, right elbow sore 5/10, right back ring finger sore 2/10
9/1/07
Sport at Bubba City - Sandstonia
didn't warm up enough, muscles weren't ready, joints felt OK, right elbow sore 1/10
warmed up on Celtic Sun 5.9+
onsite Hardcore Female Rash, 5.10a
1/5
8/29/07
Maximum Strength
clean & jerk, 95x6, 105x5, 105x5, 105x4, 95x5
decline press, 155x7, 185x5, 185x4, 185x4, 155x7
weighted pullups, 45x7, 55x5, 55x4, 45x7
Hypertrophy
dumbell shrugs, 65x12, 70x11, 70x10
bicep curls, 30x12, 30x11, 30x9, 25x9
4/5
8/25/07
Climbing at Grandmother
sent a ton of stuff, felt great, slight join pain in left elbow, dissipated quickly
projected Left Roof, close to send
three routes opposite side of Decpticon V0-V2
slopey problem left of Decepticon V3
Right Roof V2
Big Guns V4
Far Right on Chainsaw boulder V1
Middle of Chainsaw boulder V2
The Gift V2
Piss Clam Left V4
slopey lip problem V2
5/5
8/22/07
Strength
max strength
core
hypertrophy
dumbbell press, 50x12, 60x10, 60x9
t-bar, 70x11, 70x10, 45x12
wide grip pulldowns, 110x12, 120x11, 120x10
shoulder press, 25x12, 25x12, 25x11
high reps
biceps curls, 7.5x60
4/5, felt tired, poor sleep and eat this week
8/20/07
Technique - Climbing at VE
light workout, did some fun dyno stuff
2/5, elbow felt fine
8/18/07
Climbing at Duke Forest
retro-flashed right side V1
flashed left side V1
sent '57 Heels V4 on third try
sent Victory Jug V4
4/5, slight left elbow tweakage
8/16/07
Active Rest - Climbing at Rock Yard
crushed many routes
3/5
8/14/07
Strength Endurance
Circuit Training
clean & jerk, pullups, ball pushups
85x12, 10, 20
85x11, 12, 16
85x10, 10, 20, 12 pullups
Hypertrophy
dumb press, 50x12, 50x11, 50x11
narrow grip pulldowns, 100x12, 110x11, 110x11
calf machine, 90x12, 105x12, 110x12
Shoulder exercises
external rotation, 15x10
internal rotation, 20x10
high reps
biceps curl, 10x45
4/5
8/13/07
Technique
bouldering @ VE
4/5
8/6/07
Technique
bouldering @ VE
3/5
8/4/07
Speed Strength
Clean & Jerk, 85x11, 85x12, 85x10
medicine ball crunch & stand ups, 8x12, 10x12, 16x10
hypertrophy
dumbbell press, 45, 50, 50
laying shoulder front raise, 20, 15, 15
8/2/07
Technique
bouldering @ Rock Yard
2/5
8/1/07
Special Endurance
Interval training @ NCSU Traverse Wall
6, 6, 6
5
3/5
7/31/07
Strength Endurance
Pilates
Hypertrophy
chest fly, 55x12, 55x11, 50x10
forearm rolls , 70x11, 70x10, 70x10
biceps curls, 25x12, 25x11, 25x10
4/5
8/2/07
Technique
Bouldering at VE
4/5
7/26/07
Technique
Top roping at VE
made progress on red roof route
did all moves on red slab route
4/5
7/25/07
Special Endurance
NCSU Traverse Wall, 5:00, 5:00, 5:00
2/5
7/23/07
Maximum Strength
Bench Press
T-Bar
Military Press
Forearm Curls
Triceps Extension
Biceps Curls
4/5
7/22/07
Top Roping @ Pilot Mountain
flashed Dirty Rotten Scoundrel, 5.7 top rope
flashed Black Rain, 5.8 top rope
flashed Vegomatic, 5.8 top rope
sent Thin to Win, 5.10a
2/5, elbows slightly inflamed & sore
7/21/07
Technical Day
bouldering @ Rock Yard
3/5, elbows slightly sore
7/19/07
Active Rest
set routes @ Rock Yard
5/5, for elbows and campus muscles only
7/17/07
Strength Endurance
Pilates
Hypertrophy
chest cable flies, 50x12, 50x12, 45x10
calf raises big machine, 0x11, 0x10, 0x10
bar rows, 70x12, 90x11, 90x10
5/5
7/16/07
Technical Day
climbing at VE
open hand training, forearms sore following day
elbows slightly inflamed next day
4/5
7/14/07
Active Rest
Put up new routes at Rock Yard
7/13/07
Strength
Single Reps
Bar Curl, 80, 80, 80, 80, 80
Hypertrophy
Machine Press - 55x11, 45x12, 35x12, 35x11
T-Bar - 55x11, 45x12, 45x11,
Narrow Grip Pull Down- 100x12, 100x11, 100x10
Shrugs - 145x11, 135x12, 135x11
incline good mornings - 12, 12
3/5
7/12/07
Active Rest
Put up new routes on Circus Wall at Rock Yard
1/5
7/11/07
Strength Endurance
2 circuits
1st circuit
Dumbbell Press, 40x25
Shoulder Dumbbell Press, 20x20
Triceps Extension, 12.5x18
Barbell Row, 70x25
Wide Grip Pullups, 10
Bar Curls, 35x22
2nd circuit
Dumbbell Press, 35x25
Shoulder Dumbbell Press, 15x20
Triceps Extension, 10x20
Barbell Row, 60x22
Wide Grip Pullups, 6
Bar Curls, 30x20
Hypertrophy
Incline Front Shoulder Raises, 15x10, 15x10, 15x9
Incline Dumbbell Press, 35x12, 35x11, 35x10
4/5
7/9/07
Technical Day
Put up v5 route on coffin at Rock Yard
3/5
7/8/07
Speed Day
Clean & Jerk, 85x15, 85x12
Campus one arm ups, 12, 12
Depth Jumps, 12, 10
Hypertrophy
Calf raises, 45x11, 45x10, 45x10
triceps extension, 25x11, 20x10, 20x10
biceps curls, 25x12, 25x11, 25x10
narrow grip pulldowns, 3 sets
4/5
7/6/07
Strength Day (still light)
Hypertrophy
abs, first machine @ North Hills, 3 sets
25 pounds overhead side leans, 3 sets
forearm curls, 80, 80, 70
seated chest cable flys, 3 sets
3/5
7/5/07
climbing at VE
great warm up, felt weak from food poisoning
practiced open hand technique
2/5
6/24/07
Bouldering at Blowing Rock
down hill behind mushroom boulder
flashed two V0 slabs
flashed V1 crack/slabby problem
mushroom boulder
sent V5 starting from big knob moving left, middle of wall, 4th/5th try
sent V5/6 starting from big knob going straight up on slopey features, 5th/6th try
flashed V2 on far left
projected V6 on far left, adjacent to V2
main area, easy topout boulder
flashed V0 slab
flashed V1 arete
sent V3 to right of arete, 3rd/4th try
flashed V2 starting at right/middle and go straight up
flashed V1 starting at right/middle and go left
4/5, right elbow sore, right hand pulleys slightly sore
6/23/07
Bouldering at Grandmother
boulder adjacent to throttle
flashed VB slab
sent V3 slab, starting on underclings, 3rd try
flashed V1 slab+corner
projected slopey arete
warm up boulder
sent V4 throw problem, 2nd try
2/5, slight tweak in right elbow
6/21/07
NCSU Traverse Wall
circuit training
4:00/4:00, 5:00/5:00, 5:00/5:00
25 minute rest
4:00/4:00, 3:00/3:00, 4:00/4:00
2/5
shoulder joints still sore from yoga, probably from wrapping arms around back and stuff. ring finger pain still present but doesn't bother climbing
6/20/07
active rest, yoga class
hypertrophy
chest cable flys, 3 sets
shoulder side raises, angle- 20x12, 20x11, straight- 15x12
high rep, biceps, 12.5x45
3/5
6/18/07
technical day
hard climbing at Raleigh Rock Yard, great warm up, right ring finger sore in new way, maybe from clean & jerk day before
4/5
6/17/07
tired from late night drinking
speed day
jump/pull ups
clean & jerk
hypertrophy
straight arm pulldown
front shoulder raises
side shoulder raises
ab cable curl
2/5
6/16/07
Duke Forest Boulders
did short warm up, not long enough, slight tweak in left elbow.
onsite FA '05 Heels V1, Roy Williams Boulder, sit start on two small ledges, work up to the left
flash FA Jackie Manuel V1, Roy Williams Boulder, sit start at crack, work straight up
retro flash roof problem V5, Al McGuire Boulder, start at far left under roof, feet on slab on ground, hands on big match jug, start backwards to the left, reach arete and go up
6/15/07
hypertrophy
incline bench, 145x12, 145x10, 145x10
decline bench, 145x12, 145x10, 145x10
cable row, 110x12, 110x11, 110x10
rear delt raises, 12.5x12, 12.5x11, 12.5x10
calf raises, 12, 12,12
high reps
biceps
leg curls
6/14/07
active rest climbing
good warmup, mostly easy routes, felt great
6/12/07
Strength Endurance
pilates, lots of abs, doing better, getting more flexible
hypertrophy
seated cable fly, 55x12, 50x11, 50x10, 45x9
strength shoulder raise, 65x12, 65x11, 60x10
high reps
biceps curl
3/5
6/11/07
climbing @ Rock Yard
did lots of easy problems, didn't work any one problem too much, didn't do much crimpers
elbows felt great, slight tendosinovitis
3/5
6/10/07
speed/strength
deep jumps/two pullups, 12, 11, 12
clean & jerk, 85x13, 85x12, 85x12
hypertrophy
seated calf raise, 35x10
standing calf raise, 135x11, 135x11
traps, 155x12, 155x11, 155x11
ab cable pulldown, 14x12, 14x11, 14x12
right shoulder slightly sore after workout, elbows felt fine
4/5
6/8/07
hypertrophy
t-bar, 80x9, 65x12, 65x11, 65x10
pulldown, 110x12, 110x11, 110x11
low row, 55x11, 55x10, 55x9
biceps curl, 25x12, 25x11, 25x9
max strength
bench press, 175x6, 185x5, 185x4, 185x4, 190x3
military press, 115x6, 115x4
high reps
biceps curl
4/5
6/6/07
Yoga as active rest
2/5
6/5/07
Pilates
thighs burned, flexibility felt good, abs getting more endurance
hypertrophy
bench press, 155x12, 155x10, 155x9
military press, 95x11, 95x10, 95x9
triceps extension, 20x12, 20x11, 20x9
shoulder raises, 12.5x12, 15x12, 15x10
high reps
biceps, 12.5x40
forearms, 75x40
felt pumped, strong, still fresh after workout
shoulder joints slightly sore
4/5
6/3/07
warmup with dumbells, felt good
hypertrophy
calves
traps
high reps, 30+
curls
wrist curls
plyometrics
leaps to box, three sets of 15
3/5
6/2/07
swimming 20 minutes
1/5
5/31/07
low weight high rep weights, joints felt good
attempted front presses and front levers
3/5
5/30/07
swimming, 40 minutes
shoulder slightly sore from pilates
1/5
5/29/07
15 walk/job warmup
Pilates, very hard workout, joints felt fine, muscles had high energy and felt strong
4/5
5/27/07
80 degrees while climbing
Hawk's Nest, 11:30 am
Pilates warm up, felt good, should have done more fingers and pulling
sent 1st try Ikea Solution V1
sent 1st try Son of Easy 0 V2, elbows slightly tender
flashed Birdland V0, elbows achey, took 1 aleve
flashed Frog's Head V0, elbows screaming
Frog's Head and Birdland are both overhanging, was over gripping with arms, wasn't warmed up enough yet in arms
flashed #61 V2, slab route, felt fine
flashed Leg Compactor V1, felt fine
sent 2nd try Leaving Las Fayetteville V5, fingers and elbows slightly sore
3/5, muscles very tired, joints slightly sore
5/26/07
70 - 75 degrees while climbing this day
Bubba City, 9:30 am
waited for food to digest, warmed up very well, pilates and hanging, felt loose and warm
flashed Plumber's Crack 5.6
sent Lieback and Enjoy It, 5.10d, three falls, bad beta and/or no friction on slopers
flashed Shady Lady, 5.7
was mentally tired at this point
Cotton Hill Bottom, 4:00 pm
warmed up well, felt pretty fresh & strong
flashed Feeverish Child V0
failed Gradient V7, bad beta or bad friction on slopers
failed Slity Titty Traverse V4, made progress, need one more move to get to arete
sent Cross Section V5, cool problem, want to try right hand/foot match next time
3/5, felt tired but good
5/24/07
no exercise, was up late night before, slight tightness in elbows, no pulley pain, no tendosinovitis pain in right hand, slight tendosinovitis pain in left hand.
0/5
5/23/07
warmed up with dumbells, same as 5/22, felt great, loose, warm
power endurance sets, rest - "/" = 30secs, ", " = 2mins
clean & jerk
65 pounds x 15/
30 second rest
65 pounds x 8
2 mins rest
95 pounds x 10
30 seconds rest
95 pounds x 6
ball pushups
15/12, 12/10
leg lifts (core work)
10/8
4/5, felt great afterwards, very little joint pain, elbows not quite 100%, finger feeling good
5/22/07
warmed up great with dumbells, no rest between warm up sets, felt very loose
did pullups and dips as power endurance sets
pullups, attempting to press up
one set of 15
30 seconds rest
one set of 8
2 mins rest
one set of 10
30 seconds rest
one set of 10
dips, in pike
similar sets as pullups
felt tired
pilates
felt tired overall, yet pretty strong, easier class
3/5
5/21/07
elbows still slightly sore, 1 advil
active rest - jogged 15 minutes
1/5
5/20/07
active rest - played basketball in N&O tournament, elbows still sore, still taking advil
1/5
5/19/07
woke up with slightly sore elbows, slightly sore fingers
took two advils before climbing
Cotton Hill Bottom Boulders
warmed up well, felt good
flashed Juggernaut V2
flashed Walk the Dog V1
failed Slitty Titty Traverse V4
Hawk's Nest Boulders
failed Southern X Posure V6 - not enough power/contact strength
failed Precious V5 - not enough reach/power
sent Son of Easy 0 V2
sent Arrow V1
flashed #114 V3
flashed Beginner's Luck V4
sent The Mangler V6 2nd try
flashed Pucker Face V2 (with SDS, V4ish)
failed Leaving Las Fayetteville V5 - tired
was very tired after 4+ hours bouldering, elbows very sore, skin very worn, finger joints 2/5 soreness
5/5
5/18/07
sent Voodoo Surfing 5.10b, felt pumped quickly, didn't warm up enough, needed higher heart rate & more warm up for pull up motion and fingers
sent Narcissus 5.12a, flash (no missed moves), hang dogged, felt strong
3/5
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