CA1212332A - Hair conditioning compositions containing volatile silicone - Google Patents

Hair conditioning compositions containing volatile silicone

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Publication number
CA1212332A
CA1212332A CA000400817A CA400817A CA1212332A CA 1212332 A CA1212332 A CA 1212332A CA 000400817 A CA000400817 A CA 000400817A CA 400817 A CA400817 A CA 400817A CA 1212332 A CA1212332 A CA 1212332A
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Prior art keywords
weight percent
carbon atoms
hair conditioning
composition according
chain
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CA000400817A
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French (fr)
Inventor
Julius Wagman
Dale H. Johnson
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Helene Curtis Industries Inc
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Helene Curtis Industries Inc
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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585Organosilicon compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

Abstract

ABSTRACT
Hair conditioning emulsions providing improved detangling and combing ease and a creamy feel on wet hair are disclosed. The compositions contain water, a quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning agent and about 1 to 4 weight percent polydimethyl cyclosiloxane having an atmospheric boiling point of from about 150°C. to about 250°C.

Description

33'~

HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITIONS
CONTAINING VOLATILE SILICONE
DESCRIPTION
Technical Field The present invention relates to hair conditioning compositions, and more particularly to hair conditioners which contain volatile silicones and provide improved combing properties.
Background Art - 10 Hair conditioning compos;tions, including creme rinses, are will known in the art for improving combing ease for wet and dry hair. These compositions are typically aqueous emulsions which contain a quaternary amine compound as the principal conditioning agent. The quaternary nitrogen-containing compound can be a polymeric material having a plurality of quaternary nitrogen atoms per molecule or a molecule having at least one long carbon atom chain and an average of one quaternary nitrogen atom per molecule.
UOS. Patent No. 3,993,744 to Cella et al.
discloses that cationic compounds, such as quaternary nitrogen-containing compounds; and silicones can be utilized in conjunction with perfluorinated compounds in hair treatment compositions. The silicones specifically disclosed by Cella et al. are polyoxyethylene polymethyl siloxanes which are presumed to be water-soluble or dispersible. Both the quaternary nitrogen-containing compounds and silicones disclosed are utilized in relatively small amounts, e.g., at about 0.05 weight percent of the composition.
igh molecular weight silicones having viscosities greater Han about 100 centistokes at 3~ 25C. are also known to provide lubricity or sheen to ~L2~33~

various cosmetic preparations. This is shown in U.S.
Patents No. 2,942,008, No. 3,594,409, No. 3,824,303 and No. 4,014,995.
None of this art teaches or suggests that the low molecular weight, low viscosity, volatile silicones of the present invention would provide improved combing and creaminess of the composition when incorporated into hair conditioning compositions.
Summ_~y~ e Invention An improved hair conditioning composition is disclosed which contains water and a quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning agent, with the improvement comprising a polydimethyl cyclosiloxane having an atmospheric boiling point of about 150C.
to about 250C. present at about 1 to about 4 weight percent of the composition. A particularly preferred hair conditioning compositlon is an emulsion of water which includes about 1 Jo about 4 percent polydimethyl cyclosiloxane having an atmospheric boiling point of from about 150C. to about 250C., about 0.5 to about 5 percent of a qua~ernary nitrogen-containing condi~iQning agent, about 0.5 to about 10 percent of a long chain fatty alcohol having about 11 to about 18 carbon atoms in its fatty chain, and about 0.1 to about 2 percent of a tertiary amidoamine; all of the percentages being based upon the total weight of the composition. The tertiary amidoamine is a compound having a structure conforming to the formula Rl-C(=o)NH-R2-N(R3)2 wherein Rl is a fatty : chain having about 11 to about 17 carbon atoms, R2 is an alkylene group having 2 or 3 carbon atoms and each R is ethyl or methyl.

33~ :

It was unexpected that the low viscosity, low molecular weight, volatile silicones useful herein would provide either the improved overall combing or the creamy on~hair feel provided by the conditioning compositions of this invention. This finding was unexpected since both a very volatile silicone having a boiling point of about 100C. and a high molecular weight, non-volatile silicone both provided the hair with an oily feel and poorer 0 overall combing properties.
Disclosure of the Invention The present invention relates to improved hair conditioning compositions which contain water - and a quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning agent. The improvement to these conditioning compositions centers primarily around the use of from about 1 to about 4 percent by weight of a volatile silicone, i.e., a polydimethyl cyclosiloxane having a boiling point of about 150C. to about 250C. These compositions are preferably stable emulsions in which water comprises the external phase, although composi-tions containing phases which separate after standing for more than about one hour are also useful herein.
The volatile silicones utilized in this invention are water-insoluble cyclic compounds having an average of about 3 to 6 -1O-Si(CH3)2]-repeating group units per molecule and boil at atmospheric pressure at from about 150CC. to about 250C. The polydimethyl cyclosiloxanes having an average of about 4 to about 5 repeating units per molecule, the tetramer and pentamer, are particularly preferred.
The particularly preferred polydimethyl cyclosiloxanes have boiling points at ambient pressures in the range of about 170C. to about ~2~ff33~

220~C., and viscosities at 25C. of from about 2 to about 6 centistokes. These materials are commercially available under the designations Silicone SF-1173 and Silicone SF-1202 from General Electric, and Silicone 344 Fluid and Silicone 345 Fluid from Dow Corning Corporation, the tetramer being listed first in each instance.
Yolatile silicones are preferably present in the hair conditioning compositions of this inven-tion at from about 1 to about weight percent of the composition. More preferably, these polydimethyl cyclosiloxanes are present at from about 1.5 to about 3 percent by weigh of the conditioning composition Volatile silicones are said by one manufacturer to be useful in various cosmetic compositions such as antiperspirants, deodorants, hair sprays, hair coloring and hair grooming products, powder and color products and stick products, and because of their low visc:osity and 20 surface tension provide a light silky feel on hair and skin. These silicones, and a very volatile silicone (hexamethyl disiloxane, boiling point =
100Co ) are also reported Jo be non-greasy but to provide subtle lubrication. It has been unrecognized in the hair conditioning arts that the beforedescribed volatile silicones9 used in the amounts described, would provide the overall combing benefits which are observed herein.
In addition to water, which typically constitutes at least about 80 weight percent of the weight of the conditioning composition, and more preferably about 90 weigh percent, and the volatile silicone, the compositions of this invention also contain at least a water-soluble or water-dispersible quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning agent. A

long chain fatty alcohol is also present in more preferred compositions, and a tertiary amidoamine is additionally present in particularly preferred compositions.
The quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning agents are preferably present at from about 0.5 to about S percent by weight of the composition as an active ingredient. More preferablyt the quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning agent is present at from about 2 to about 3 weight percent, as an active ingredient.
Both polymeric quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning agents having a plurality of quaternary nitrogen atoms per molecule, and conditioning agents having one quaternary nitrogen atom and at least one long carbon atom chain per molecule are useful herein. Conditioning agents having one quaternary nitrogen atom and at least one long carbon atom chain containing from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms per molecule are preferred over the polymeric materials because the polymers tend to give the hair a greasier feel when wet than do the lower molecular weight compounds.
The preferred class of conditioning agents having one quaternary nitrogen atom and one long chain having from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms per molecule include a broad range of compounds.
However, the preferred individual conditioning agents can be broadly divided into three sub-classes based upon the structure of the groups bonded Jo the quaternary nitrogen atom, i.e., (a) compounds having one long carbon chain and three identical or different short chain alkyl groups containing one or two carbon atoms, (b) compounds having one long carbon chain, one benzyl group and two identical or i33~

different short chain alkyl groups having one or two carbon atoms, and (c) compounds having two long carbon chains and two identical or different short chain alkyl groups having one or two carbon atoms.
The first of the above sub-classes can be exemplified by compounds such as cetyldimethylethylammonium bromide, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride and stearyltri12-hydr~xyethyl)ammonium chloride. These compounds are given the 7 ess cumbersome names Quaternium 17, Laurtrimonium chloride and Quaternium-16, respectively, in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 2nd ed., 1977, published by the Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Inc., hereinafter referred to as the CTFA Dictionary.
Illustrative conditioning agents of the second of the before-mentioned sub-classes include stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride. These conditioning agents are named Stearalkonium chloride and lauralkonium chloride, respectively in the CTFA
Dictionary.
Illustrative conditioning agents of the third of the before-mentioned sub-classes include distearyldimethylammonium chloride and dilauryldimethylammonium chloride. These compounds are named Quaternium-5 and Quaternium-47, respectively, in the CTFA Dictionary.
It is noted that the long carbon chain of the beforQ-mentioned conditioning agents need not be solely or primarily of one chain length, i.e., the long chain need not be cetyl, myristyl, lauryl or stearyl. Rather, conditioning agents whose long carbon chain contains a mixture of lengths can be used. Such conditioning agents are conveniently ~2~ 3~

prepared from naturally occurring materials, such as tallow, coconut oil, soya oil and the like, or from synthetically produced mixtures. Examples of conditioning agents having mixed carbon chain lengths include dimethyldi(hydrogenated tallow)ammonium chloride, dialkyldimethylammonium chloride wherein the alkyl group is a saturated group consisting primarily of 16 carbon atoms and N-(soya alkyl)-N,N,N- trimethylammonium chloride. These conditioning agents are named Quaternium-18, Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-9, respectively, in the CTFA Dictionary.
Useful water-soluble or dispersible polymeric conditioning agents include those prepared from polydiallyldimethylammonium salts as is described in U.S. Patents No. 3,288,770 and No.
3,412,091. These polymers can be prepared by polymerizing diallyldimethylammonium chloride or bromide, or other suitable diallyldimethylammonium salts, using a free radical generating polymerization catalyst, such as a peroxide or hydroperoxide, then employing a suitable anion exchange resin. The resulting polymers are polydiallyldimethylammonium salts, such as polydiallyldimethylammonium chloride.
The homopolymer so produced has been given the name Quaternium-40 in the CTFA DictionarY.
The copolymer formed using acrylamide and a diallyldimethylammonium salt is also useful herein.
The CTFA Dictionary name for the diallyldimethylammonium salt copolymerized with acrylamide is Quaternium-41.
Both Quaternium-40 and Quaternium-41 are commercially available under the respective designations MERQUA~-100 and MERQUAT-550 from Merck &
Company, Inc. MERQUAT-100 is sold as a 40 weight 33~

percent aqueous solution of the polymer, and has a Brookfield viscosity at 25C. in the range of about 8,000-12,000 centipoises (cps). MERQUAT-550 is sold as an 8 weight percent aqueous solutin of polymer, and has a Brookfield viscosity at 25C. in the range of about 7,500-15,000 cps.
Another guaternary nitrogen-containing polymer useful herein is a cationic guar. This material has 3-trimethyl-ammonium-2-hydroxypropyl groups bonded to the mannopyranosyl and galactopyranosyl units which make up the guar chains;
chloride ion being the anion usually associated with the polymer. The name adopted by the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragance Association for this material, although not appearing in the above CTFA DictionarY, is Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. A suitable cationic guar is supplied under the designation COSMEDIA GUAR*C 261 by Henkel, Inc., while a similar material is sold under the designation JAGUAR C-13-S
by Stein, Hall & Company, Inc.
A copolymer prepared from about 80 weight percent N-vinyl pyrrolidone and about 20 weight percent N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized wth dimethyl sulfate is also useful herein. This material is named Quaternium-23 in the CTF _Dictionary. Quaternium-23 is available from GAF
Corporation under the designation GAFQUAT-755 and GAFQUAT* 7 3 4 .
Yet another polymeric conditioning agent useful herein is a copolymer prepared from acrylamide and N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized with dimethyl sulfate. Viscosities of 1 weight percent agueous solutions of these polymers typically have Brookfield viscosities of about 35 to about 1200 cps.

- , ,,, I

33~:

These copolymers are named in the CTFA
Dictionary as Quaternium-39, and are available under the designation RETEN from Hercules, Inc.
Commercially available polymers include those designated RETEN SPX*llQ4, SPX 1105 and SPX 1106.
Still another useful water-soluble polymeric conditioning agent for use herein is a quaternary nitrogen-containing hydroxyethyl cellulose having a backbone chain of anhydroglucose units with pendant substituent groups bearing a full positive charge spaced along the anhydroglucose backbone. The pendant substituent groups are spaced about the anhydroglucose units along the chain, thereby making the substituent groups themselves pendant and spaced along the chain. These hydroxyethyl cellulose derivatives contain a plurality of quaternary nitrogen-containing groups with each anhydroglucose unit having from zero Jo three quaternary nitrogen-containing groups; and their preparation is ~0 described in United States Patent No. 3,472,840.
These cationicy hydroxyethyl cellulose derivatives are named Quaternium 19 in the CTFA
Dictionarv, and are commercially available under the designation POLYMER JR from the Union Carbide Corporation. The presently available materials include POLYMER JR-125, POLYMER JR-400 and POLYMER
JR-3OM~
Long chain fatty alcohols having from about 11 to about 18 carbon atoms in the chain can also be constituents of the conditioning emulsions of this invention. These alcohols can be used alone, or in admixture with each other. When included in the compositions, the alcohol is preferably present at from about 0.5 to about 10 weight percent of the composition, and more preferably at from about 2 to about 5 weight percent.

~.33~

Lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and the like, and mixtures thereof are contemplated herein. In addition, mixtures of natural or synthetic fatty alcohols having fatty chain lengths of from about 11 to about 18 carbons are also useful. Several such mixtures are available commercially, and are exemplified by the material containing a mixture of synthetic alcohols with 12 Jo 15 carbons in the alkyl chain sold under the designation Neodo~ 25 by Shell Chemical Company, and the material containing a mixture of synthetic alcohols with chain lengths of 12 to 16 carbons sold under the designation AlfoI
1216 Alcohol by Conoco Chemicals.
Fatty alcohols of the above discussed carbon chain lengths which are ethoxylated to contain an average of one or two moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcshol can be used in place of the fatty alcohols themselves. Examples of such useful ethoxylated fatty acids include ethylene glycol cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether, and the like; the exemplary compounds having CTFA DictionarY
names of Ceteth-l and Steareth-2, respectively.
A tertiary amidoamine can also be present in the hair conditioning compositions of this invention, and is present in particularly preferred compositions at a soncentration of from about 0~1 to about 2 weight percent of the composition, and more preferably at from about 0.25 to about 1 weight percent.
The tertiary amidoamines useful herein have structures conforming to the formula Rl-C(=o)NH-R2-N(R3)2 wherein Rl is a fatty chain having about 11 to about 17 carbon atoms, R2 is an alkylene group having 2 or 3 carbon atoms and ~2~3~

each R3 is ethyl or methyl. Exemplar, useful, tertiary amidoamines include dimethylaminopropyl stearamide, diethylaminoethyl ~tearamide and dimethylaminopropyl myristamide~ The Rl group of the tertiary amidoamines can also be prepared from materials having differing chain lengths, and thus the Rl group can be prepared from coconut, soya and tallow ~a~ty acids, or the like.
The hair conditioning compositions of this invention suitably are near neutral to slightly acidic in pH value. Thus, the hair conditioners of this invention preferably have pi values of from about 4 to about 8, and more preferably from about 5.5 to about 6.5 Ingredients in addition to water and the previously discussed ingredients can also be present in the composition of this invention. These : ingredients include, but are not limited to, polyhydric alcohols, such as propylene glycol or glycerine, hydroxyethylated fatty alcohols having from about 12 Jo 13 carbon atoms in the Patty chain and an average of about 15 to about 30 moles of ethylene oxide added per mole of alcohol, inorganic salts such as sodium or potassium chlorides, perfume, colorants, preservatives and the like. Suitable hydroxyethylated fatty alcohols include the previously described fatty alcohols having from about 11 to 18 carbon atoms which contain the desired amount of hydroxyethylation such as polyoxyethylene (20) cetyl ether, polyoxye~hylene (30) stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene (15) lauryl ether, the polyoxyethylene glycol ether of synethic fatty alcohols having about 11 to 15 carbons in the fatty chain and an average of 20 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol, and the polyethylene glycol ~2~33~

ether of fatty alcohols containing primarily cetyl and ætearyl alcohol and an average of 20 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol. These exemplary hydroxyethylated fatty alcohols are given the following CTFA Dictionary names, respectively:
Ceteth-20, ~eareth-30, Laureth-15, Pareth-15-20 and Ceteareth 200 The invention is further illustrated by the Examples which follow.
Example 1: Hair Conditioning Emulsion A
A hair conditioning compositisn according to this invention was prepared having the ingredients and amounts listed below.
Amounts Ingredient (Weight percent) 1) Quaternium-31 3.3 ; ~68% active)
2) Cetyl alcohol 3.25
3) volatile ~iliconel 2.0
4) Promulgen ~2 1.0 ; 5) Dimethyaminopropyl 0~5 stearamide 6) Propylene glycol 0.5 7~ Perfume 0.4 8) Potassium chloride 0.3 9) Panthenol dl 0.1 10) Citric acid 0.1 11) Preservative soultion 0.2 (7 ppm active) 12) Deionized water ~.s. 100.00 A polydimethyl cyclosiloxane having a boiling point of 176 C. sold under the designation Silicone SF-1173 by General Electric was used.

~2~,33~

2 Promulgen G is the designation given my Robinsnn-Wagner Company, Inc. for its mixture of stearyl alcohol and Ceteareth-20. Ceteareth-20 i5 defined in the CT~A Dictionary as the polyethylene glycol ether of Cetearyl alcohol that conforms generally to the formula R(OCH2 CH2)n OH where R represents a blend of cetyl and s~earyl radicals and n has an average value of 20.

The conditioning emulsion was prepared by addition of the citric acid, Quaternium-31, propylene glycol and dimethylaminopropyl stearamide to the water with agitation. The resulting admixture was heated to a temperature of 145F. with continued agitation. After a substantially homogeneous admixture was achieved, cetyl alcohol and Promulgen G
were added with agitation, and the temperature oE Abe new admixture was raised to 155F. Agitation at 155~F. was continued for 30 minutes and the temperature of the mixture was lowered to 115F.
Potassium chloride was thereafter added with the agitation continuing until a substantially uniform admixture was obtained. Panthenol dl, the volatile silicone, perfume oil and preservative solution were then added with agitation. Agitation was continued while allowing the emulsified hair conditioning composition to cool to 90~F at which time the composition was packaged.
Hair was treated with a composition of this Example following usual conditioning product evaluation methods. The composition provided the wet hair with a creamy feel and good combing. Combing studies example 3) indicated superior wet and dry combing and detangling properties were imparted to the hair by this composition.

~2~33~

Example 2: Hair Conditioning Emulsion B
A second emulsified hair conditioning composition of this invention was prepared which contained the ingredients and their amounts as are listed below. This composition was prepared in a manner substantially identical to the composition of Example 1 with the following exceptions:
Stearolkonium chloride replaced Quaternium-31, glycerine replaced propylene glycol, diethylaminoethyl stearamide replaced dimethylaminopropyl stearamide, Promulgen D replaced Promulgen G, and panthenol dl was absent from the composition.

:

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Amount In~red~ent (Weiqht percent) 1) Stearalkonium chloride 10.5 ~20 percent active) 2) Cetyl alcohol 3.25 3) Volatile siliconel 2 4) Promulgen D3
5) Glycerine
6) Diethylaminoethyl stearamide 0.5
7) Perfume Oil 0.4
8) Potassium chloride 0.2
9) Preservative solution 0.2 (7 ppm active)
10) Citric acid 0.08
11) Water q.s. 100.00 1 See Example 1.

3 Promulgen D is the designation given by Robinson~Wagner O Inc. for its mixture of Cetearyl alcohol and Ceteareth-20.

Hair was treated with the composition of this Example. Evaluation of the treatment again indicated a creamy consistency on wet hair and good detangling and combing properties resulting from thè
use of this composition.
Comparative, Quantitative Example 3: Combinq Studies . _ . .
Comparative quantitative combing studies were performed using an Instron Tensile Testing apparatus adapted with a comb. Standard 6 inch tresses of brown or bleached/waved hair (De Meo Brothers; New York) were used for the determinations. Measurements were taken of the ,-,'.1 ,e ~9 ~2~33~

maximum force or peak load to comb through the tress, as well as of the total energy required to comb through the tress. Of these measurements, the total energy measurement is believed to provide a more reliable indication of a composition's combing ease or detangling ability because it provides a total combing picture rather than just a portion.
In each determination, a standard amount of conditioning composition in proportion to an amount which would be used on a whole head was applied to wet, freshly shampooed hair, allowed to remain in contact with the hair for about 1 minute and then rinsed from the hair with tap water. Wet combing measurements were made directly after the rinsing step, while dry combing measurements were made after the hair had been equilibrated for about 15-24 hours in a room kept at 72F. and 60 percent relative humidity. The first combing stroke through each tress is considered to be a measure of ease of detangling, while a subsequent comb;ng stroke is considered to measure the conditioning properties of the com2osi~ion The five compositions compared were as follows:
A) A composition substantially like that of Example 1, but containing water in place of the volatile silicone, thereby simulating a commercially available hair conditioner.
B) The composition of Example l;
C) The composition of Example 1 in which the volatile silicone of that composition was replaced with a volatile silicone having a boiling f point of about 190-210C. sold under the designation Silicone SF-1202 by General Electric;

3~2 D) The composition of Example 1 in which the volatile silicone of that composition was replaced by a non-volatile silicone (polydimethylsiloxane) sold under the designation 5 - 5ilicone SF 96-50 by General Electric; and E) The composition of Example 1 in which the volatile silicone of what composition was replaced by a very volatile silicone (hexamethyl disiloxane, boiling point lOO~C.) sold under the designation Q 2 1096 by Dow Corning.
A creamy feel was noted when Compositions B
and C, of this invention, were applied to wet hair.
Compositions containing the very volatile and non-volatile silicones appeared and felt somewhat oily on the wet hair.
The data from each measurement of total energy or peak force required to comb through the tresses were ranked on a scale of 1 through 5; the number 1 being given to the lowest value and the number 5 being given to the highest value. The rankings were then summed over all of the eight determinations made to obtain an overall picture of the effectiveness of each composition. Thus, the lowest overall sum reflects the composition providing the best overall combing properties. the rankings and Ranking Sums are listed in Tables 1 and 2 below for total energy and peak force to comb, respectively.

- \

table 1 Ranking of Total Energy to Comb Brown Hair Bleached/Waved Hair Wet Dry Wet Dry Compo- Ranking sition I* S** I S I S I S Sums l C 4 4 1 5 4 4 1 1 24 D 2 3 4 3 5 2 5 2 2~

*I = initial combing stroke, related to ease of detangling.
**S = subsequent combing ætroke, related to conditioning.
; Table 2 : Ranking of 20Peak Force to Comb Brown Hair Bleached/Waved Hair Wet Dry Wet Dry Compo- Ranking sition I* S** I S I S I S Sums_ * and **, see Table 1.

Examination of the above Tables, and particularly the Ranking Sums, demonstrates what the compositions of this invention, B and C, provided ~2 easier over-all combing than any of the other compositions studied. This superiority was found when either total energy or peak force measurements are examined.
Thus, one or the other of compositions B or C was thy best in seven of the eight determinations of the total energy measurements (Table 1). In addition, hair treated with Compositions B or C
required the least peak force in five of the eight determinations (Table 2).
The above results demonstrate the superior and unexpected results achieved when the volatile silicones of the invention are incorporated into hair conditioning composition. The selected volatile silicones useful herein provide superior detangling and subsequent combing ease Jo wet and dry brown and beached/waved hair compared to similar silicones which are more or less volatile (Compositions E and D, respectively), or when compared to a ~0 commercial-type conditioner which contained no - silicone (Composition A). In addition, while use of the non-cyclic, but otherwise similar silicones produced oily looking and feeling conditioners, the volatile silicones useful herein provided pleasant, creamy compositions when placed on wet hair.
Further Comparative Example 4: Quantitative Combing Studies he efficacy of using volatile silicones in hair conditioning preparations was further demonstrated by a comparison of combing forces between a first composition containing only deionized water and a quaternary nitrogen conditioning agent and a second composition of this invention containing the same two ingredients with the addition of a volatile silicone. The first composition contained 3~

3.3 weight percent Quaternium-31 (68% active) dissolved in water. The second composition of this invention contained the same amount of Quaternium-31 with 2 weight percent Silicone SF-1173 (Example 1) replacing an equal amount of water.
Bleached/waved hair tresses were treated with either of the two compositions as is described in Example with comparisons being made for both wet and dried, treated hair. Data for the peak force to comb through the tresses for the average of the first 8iX strokes of the comb (detangling and subsequent strokes) were analyzed using a Student's t testO The reductions in force using the composition of this invention were determined to be significant at at least the 95 percent confidence level. These data ore repor ted below in Table 3 .
Table 3 Peak Force (in grams) Wet combing Dry combing Force Force Composition 1* 11.27 8.48 Composition 2** 7.55 6.01 Percent force reduction*** 33 29 *Composition 1 contained only deionized water and 3.3 weight percent Qua~ernium-31 (68% active).
**Composition 2 contained deionized water 3.3 weight percent Quaternium-31 (68% active) and 2%
Silicone SF-1173 (Example l ***Percent force reduction was obtained by subtracting the force obtained using Composition 2 from that using Composition 1, dividing the resulting number by the force from using Composition 1 and multiplying that number by 100.

3Z~

The above data and reductions in peak force to comb through the tress amply illustrate the efficacy of the instant invention.
The present invention has been described with respect to the preferred embodiments of the invention. It will be clear Jo those skilled in the art that modifications and/or variations of the compositions can be made without departing from the scope of the invention set forth herein. The invention i defined by the claims which follow.

Claims (18)

THE EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION IN WHICH AN EXCLUSIVE
PROPERTY OR PRIVILEGE IS CLAIMED ARE DEFINED AS FOLLOWS:
1. A hair conditioning composition comprising an emulsion of water, about 1 to about 4 percent by weight polydimethyl cyclosiloxane having an atmospheric boiling point of from about 150°C. to about 250°C. and having a viscosity at 25°C. of from 2 to about 6 centistokes, from about 0.5 to about 5 weight percent of a quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning agent, from about 0.5 to about 10 weight percent of a long chain fatty alcohol having about 11 to about 18 carbons in said long chain, and about from 0.1 to about 2 weight percent of a tertiary amidoamine having a structure conforming to the formula R1-C(=O)NH-R2-N(R3)2 wherein R1 is a fatty chain having about 11 to about 17 carbon atoms, R2 is an alkylene group having 2 or 3 carbon atoms and each R3 is ethyl or methyl.
2. The hair conditioning composition according to claim 1 wherein said water comprises at least about 80 weight percent of said composition.
3. The hair conditioning composition according to claim 1 wherein said polydimethyl polysiloxane boils at a temperature of from about 170°C. to about 220°C. at atmospheric pressure.
4. The hair conditioning composition according to claim 1 wherein said polydimethyl cyclosiloxane is present at about 1.5 to about 3 percent by weight of said composition.
5. The hair conditioning composition according to claim 1 wherein said quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning agent contains one quaternized nitrogen atom and one carbon chain having about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms per molecule.
6. The hair conditioning composition according to claim 1 wherein said quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning agent is present at about 2 to about 3 percent by weight of the composition.
7. The hair conditioning composition according to claim 1 wherein said long chain fatty alcohol is present at about 2 to about 5 weight percent of said composition.
8. The hair conditioning composition according to claim 1 wherein said tertiary amidoamine is present at about 0.25 to about 1 weight percent of said composition.
9. A hair conditioning composition comprising an emulsion including at least about 80 weight percent water, from about 1.5 to about 3 weight percent polydimethyl cyclosiloxane having an atmospheric boiling point of about 170°C. to about 220°C.
and having a viscosity at 25°C. of from 2 to about 6 centistokes, from about 2 to about 3 weight percent of a conditioning agent containing one quaternized nitrogen atom and one long carbon chain having about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms per molecule, from about 2 to about 5 weight percent of a long chain fatty alcohol having about 11 to about 18 carbon atoms in said long chain, and from about 0.25 to about 1 weight percent of a tertiary amidoamine having a structure conforming to the formula R1-C(=O)NH-R2-N(R3)2 wherein R1 is a fatty chain having about 11 to about 17 carbon atoms, R2 is an alkylene group having 2 or 3 carbon atoms and each R3 is ethyl or methyl.
10. The hair conditioning composition according to claim 9 wherein said tertiary amidoamine is dimethylaminopropyl stearamide or diethylaminoethyl stearamide.
11. The hair conditioning composition according to claim 9 wherein said long chain fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
12. The hair conditioning composition according to claim 9 wherein said quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of (a) compounds having one long carbon chain and three identical or different short chain alkyl groups containing one or two carbon atoms bonded to the quaternary nitrogen atom, (b) compounds having one long carbon chain, one benzyl group and two identical or different short chain alkyl groups having one or two carbon atoms bonded to the quaternary nitrogen atom, and (c) compounds having two long carbon chains and two identical or different short chain alkyl groups having one or two carbon atoms bonded to the quaternary nitrogen atom.
13. In a hair conditioning composition containing water and a quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning agent, the improvement comprising a polydimethyl cyclosiloxane having an atmospheric boiling point of about 150°C. to about 250°C. and having a viscosity at 25°C. of from 2 to about 6 centistokes present at from about 1 to about 4 percent by weight of said composition.
14. The conditioning composition according to claim 13 wherein said polydimethyl cyclosiloxane is present at about 1.5 to about 3 percent by weight of said composition, and boils at from about 170°C. to about 220°C.
15. The conditioning composition according to claim 13 in the form of an emulsion having water as the external phase.
16. The conditioning composition according to claim 15 additionally containing about 0.5 to about 10 weight percent of a long chain fatty alcohol having about 11 to about 18 carbon atoms in said long chain.
17. A hair conditioning composition comprising an emulsion of water, about 1 to about 4 percent by weight of a polydimethyl cyclosiloxane having an atmospheric boiling point of from about 150°C. to about 250°C. and having a viscosity at 25°C. of from 2 to about 6 centistokes, from about 0.5 to about 5 weight percent of a quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning agent having two long aliphatic chains each of which contains about 12 to about 18 carbons and two identical or different short chain alkyl groups having one or two carbon atoms each bonded to the quaternary nitrogen, from about 0.5 to about 10 weight percent of a long chain fatty alcohol having about 11 to about
18 carbons in said long chain, and about from 0.1 to about 2 weight percent of a tertiary amidoamine having a structure conforming to the formula R1-C(=O)-NH-R2-N(R3)2 wherein R1 is a fatty chain having about 11 to about 17 carbon atoms, R2 is an alkylene group having 2 or 3 carbon atoms and each R3 is ethyl or methyl.
CA000400817A 1981-07-29 1982-04-13 Hair conditioning compositions containing volatile silicone Expired CA1212332A (en)

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US286,877 1981-07-29

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IT1189286B (en) 1988-02-04
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SE8204415D0 (en) 1982-07-21
AU556260B2 (en) 1986-10-30
JPS5821610A (en) 1983-02-08
JPH0314285B2 (en) 1991-02-26
GB2102288A (en) 1983-02-02
DE3228444A1 (en) 1983-02-17
DE3228444C2 (en) 1990-03-15
IT8248550A0 (en) 1982-05-31
SE8204415L (en) 1983-01-30
ES8400027A1 (en) 1983-10-16
FR2510403A1 (en) 1983-02-04
MX157439A (en) 1988-11-23
GB2102288B (en) 1985-09-25
ES514477A0 (en) 1983-10-16
AR227978A1 (en) 1982-12-30

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