EP3207920A1 - Use of active agents for increasing the ceramide content of the lips, as a protection agent for fragile lips - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the field of the preventive and / or curative protection of fragile lips. More specifically, it relates to the cosmetic use of active agents to increase the ceramide content of the lips, such as a ceramide precursor based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine or ascorbic acid or the one of its analogues, as a protective agent for fragile lips. It also relates to compositions for lip application corresponding.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of the preventive and / or curative protection of fragile lips.

By "fragile lips" in the context of the present invention is meant lips that may be affected by a number of signs or disorders ranging from discomfort sensations to chapping, through tingling sensations and tugging, the appearance of scales, dry patches, cracks or bleeding. These signs are more particularly located on the part of the lips called vermilion or red lips. Epidemiological studies of hundreds of women in Europe, Asia, and North America show that brittle lips are a common disorder. For example, it affects 67% of women in France and 54% of women in Japan. This disorder is felt as severe (very fragile lips) by one in five women in France and one in three women in Japan.

The attached figure illustrates this area of vermilion and more generally the anatomy of the peri-labial region.

The term "lip" in fact covers an anatomical region of the face referenced in the attached figure, delimited at the top by the nose 2, laterally by the nasolabial folds 4 and at the bottom by the tassel of the chin 3. It comprises the upper lip 9 and the lower lip 10. The upper lip and the lower lip unite at their two lateral ends to form the labial commissures 1.

• une partie dont l'apparence est similaire à celle de la peau du corps. Il s'agit des « lèvres blanches »,
• une partie dont l'apparence est très différente de la peau du corps, il s'agit des « lèvres rouges », aussi appelée vermillon,
• une partie endobuccale, de type muqueuse.

Three well-differentiated parts can also be distinguished within this anatomical entity:

• a part whose appearance is similar to that of the skin of the body. These are the "white lips",
• a part whose appearance is very different from the skin of the body, it is about the "red lips", also called vermilion,
• an endobuccal part, mucous type.

The white lips consist of a conventional cutaneous tissue, orthokeratinized, covered with an epidermis and a dermis provided with pilosebaceous follicles and eccrine sweat glands.

The main function of conventional skin is to establish a protective barrier against environmental aggressions while allowing certain exchanges between the internal environment and the external environment. It consists of the interior towards the outside, by the hypodermis, the dermis and the epidermis. The epidermis is the most superficial layer of the skin, composed mainly of keratinocytes (90%). The differentiation of keratinocytes is accompanied by a set of morphological and biochemical transformations that lead to the formation of mature cells, the corneocytes. Corneocytes are anucleate and flattened cells. They are detached on the surface of the skin according to a desquamation process. This desquamation when it is physiological is unapparent and does not give rise to the presence of visible scales on the surface of the skin. During their corneal maturation, the keratinocytes migrate from the depth to the surface of the epidermis, and form four epidermal layers: the basal layer (basal stratum), the spiny layer (stratum spinosum), the granular layer (stratum granulosum) , and the stratum corneum, which is the outermost layer, composed of mature corneocytes. This layer builds the first line of defense of the epidermal barrier.

Vermilion 6 has a very special structure, which is not comparable with the structure of conventional skin, in many ways.

The vermilion area or red lips (lower 8 or higher 7) is a unique structure to homos sapiens. It is an intermediate zone between the orthokeratinized skin and the mucosa. It consists of a parakeratinized epithelium, that is to say with incomplete keratinization of corneocytes, some of which still contain nucleated elements. The dermis presents numerous and important dermal papillae (drawing a physiological hyperpapillomatosis on the histological sections).

In addition, the vermilion epithelium is thicker compared to conventional skin, especially with respect to the skin of white lips. On the other hand, the stratum corneum (SC) covering the vermilion is extremely fine. The vermilion keratinocytes have a turnover rate or turnover faster than in conventional skin. This rapidity induces an incomplete differentiation of corneocytes (incomplete keratinization), therefore an immature SC containing nucleated cells ( Hikima R. et al. Fundamental study of the lips (II): labial relief and gercement of the lips. JOURNAL OF JAPANESE COSMETIC SCIENCE SOCIETY 20 [4], 265-69. 1996 ). The level of these nucleated cells seems positively correlated with the degree of cracking of the lips.

The vermilion is richly vascularized and rests almost directly - without real hypodermic seated - on the orbicularis muscle of the lips, all giving this vermilion red color to this part of the lips. Vermillons, unlike other areas of the body's skin, do not contain hair follicles, sweat glands and little or no sebaceous glands. For the latter, only 50% of individuals have some sebaceous glands, which appear after adolescence.

As a result, the physiology of this very particular area of the skin is very specific and very poorly known. Given these numerous features (parakeratotic differentiation, muscular padding, absence of epidermal appendages), it is impossible to transfer the knowledge established for the rest of the skin to the epidermis of vermilion.

Finally, the mucosa is an inner zone covered with a thick epithelium, squamous non-keratinized, devoid of SC, and endowed with a high permeability. This area is kept continuously wet by saliva.

In the remainder of this description, for the sake of simplicity, and although the vermilion area is the area targeted by the present description, the term "lips" will be used. In other words, in the remainder of the description, unless otherwise indicated, the term "lips" refers to vermillons.

In order to fully understand the present invention, it is thus necessary to note the specificity of vermillons not only in histological terms as mentioned previously, in particular with respect to the skin, but also in terms of affections or signs of discomfort, or even of pathologies that can be associated with them.

In fact, it has been found that some women complain of fragile lips all year round. They are then considered to have "very fragile" lips. Others complain of fragile lips only during certain periods of the year, by the example of winter. They are then considered to have "fragile" lips.

Unless otherwise indicated in the following description, the term "fragile lips" used covers the "fragile" lips and "very fragile" lips defined above.

In any case, considering its location on the border of the digestive and cutaneous spheres, the many contacts with food and saliva and its particular structure with a thin and immature stratum corneum , vermilion represents in many people a zone of fragility recognized by the latter.

The signs associated with fragile lips are detailed below. They can exist separately from each other or be associated.

All of these signs can be uncomfortable, bothersome and uncomfortable when the lips move during speech or feeding. In addition, they can prevent the use of lipsticks. In the most severe cases where the woman has cracking or bleeding, these last signs can be painful: they therefore deserve attention in order to develop cosmetological methods of prevention and / or appropriate treatment .

Although all of these signs are frequently observed, the amplification of triggering phenomena is far from being controlled. We know in particular the influence of age on the occurrence of these signs. ( Arais S., et al. Normal surface condition of the lips (I): the gercement of the lips. Study on lip surface: Characteristics of chapped lip. JOURNAL OF JAPANESE COSMETIC SCIENCE SOCIETY 13 [2], 64-68. 1989 ).

In addition, the lips are permanently exposed to the external environment, directly undergoing environmental aggressions. For example, the cold and the wind could be drying factors for the lips and contribute to the appearance of fragile lips. The winter season has been shown to be a more palatable period on the lips. UV is also likely to be a cause of brittle lips. In today's society, the widespread use of air conditioning could also play a role in the occurrence of fragile lips.

Finally, the lips are directly in contact with different physicochemical stimulations. For example taking meals, lipsticks, smoking, language, etc., are some of the factors causing fragile lips.

Thus, when it is classically question of protecting the lips, it is generally intended to overcome only the problem of parched lips and the formation of cracks or crevices on the lips.

However, as previously described, the problem of fragile lips is a more complex concept. Thus, fragile lips not only cause mechanical and biochemical damage to the epidermal barrier and desquamation abnormalities, but also play on the neurosensory aspect of the lips.

Thus, all the persons concerned by the fragile lips in the sense of the present invention can not be satisfied by the products commonly used, namely in particular stick lip balms mainly aimed at moisturizing the lips which calms the immediate effects drying or cracking. One can also blame these lip balms of the prior art not even to show quick action, or even not to provide a real solution to the problem itself.

Typically, it is known to use lip balms containing fatty substances, in particular oils or waxes, for example of plant origin, petroleum jelly or even lanolin.

The main purpose of these substances is to slow down the loss of water from the lips.

These lip balms may also have the disadvantage of imparting an unattractive appearance due to cosmetic properties of poor application because of the fat and heaviness of the aforementioned moisturizing substances.

It is also known from the document EP 0 940 137 use of acexamic acid as an agent to treat and prevent drying and cracking and / or cracking of the lips.

Ceramides constitute about 47% of the total lipid weight of skin SC and are also present in large amounts in the lips.

They are composed of a sphingoid base which can be of four types: sphinganine (also called dihydrosphingosine), 4-sphingenine (also called sphingosine), phytosphingosine (also called 4-hydroxy-sphinganine) and 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine ( also called 6-hydroxy-sphingenine), and a fatty acid that can be saturated, α-hydroxylated or ω-esterified. The different combinations possible between bases and fatty acids lead to a dozen ceramides listed by Robson, KJ; Stewart, ME; Michelsen, S .; Lazo, ND; Downing, DT, 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenin in human epidermal ceramides, in J. Lipid Res. 1994 35: 2060-2068 ; and Chopart M., Castiel-Higounenc I., Arbey E., Guey C., Gaetani Q., Schmidt R., The Normal Human stratum corneum: a new ceramide profile, Perspectives in Percutaneous Penetration, 8th International Conference, Antibes Juan-Les Pins - France, April 2-6,2002 .

A number of natural or synthetic ceramides and their precursors have been proposed as active in compositions intended to treat cutaneous disorders such as damage caused by UV or hydration deficiencies.

So the document FR 2,855,049 teaches the use, for reinforcing the barrier function of the skin and in particular for combating cutaneous disorders such as dry, rough, damaged or aged skin, of a composition comprising a substance capable of specifically activating the synthesis in vivo ceramides containing 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine, such as for example ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its analogues, in combination with a sphingenine-based ceramide precursor or a derivative thereof.

For its part, the document FR 2,855,048 teaches the use of the combination of at least one phytosphingosine-based ceramide precursor and an activating substance of the 4-hydroxylase pathway also to enhance the barrier function of the skin and in particular to overcome the skin disorders of dry, rough, damaged, and / or atopic, even aged or sensitive skin type.

The document FR 2,835,430 relates to compositions useful for the care of sensitive skin, comprising at least one homopolymer or copolymer of meth (acrylamide) and an aqueous suspension of nanocapsules at least partially coated with lecithin.

The documents EP 0 500 437 and EP 0 647 617 describe synthetic ceramides for the treatment and care of the skin and hair.

As for the document EP 0 716 849 it describes a composition containing a mixture of ceramides, in particular for moisturizing the skin.

The document FR 2 759 902 discloses for its part lipstick sticks containing, among others, ceramides and also having moisturizing properties while having good resistance to makeup.

WO 01/75538 also discloses the use of a composition containing ceramides for the treatment of lips subjected to xeric stress.

Finally, the document EP 1 272 148 discloses the use of a mixture of ceramides, essential fatty acids and non-essential fatty acids in defined molar ratios, for the manufacture of a medicament for the prevention and the repair of the xeric stress of the lips of a human subject by applying to said lips an amount of said composition for maintaining the barrier function.

The inventors have found, surprisingly, that the appearance of fragile lips within the meaning of the present invention is linked to a deficiency of 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramides.

Among ceramides based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine, there may be mentioned ceramide type IV, ceramide type VII, ceramide type 5.5 and ceramide STAR.

dans laquelle a, b et c sont des entiers variant de 3 à 30, de préférence de 8 à 24, et en particulier dans laquelle a varie de 15 à 20, b varie de 7 à 18 et c varie de 10 à 18.By STAR ceramide is meant in the sense of the invention the compounds of structure:

wherein a, b and c are integers ranging from 3 to 30, preferably from 8 to 24, and in particular wherein a varies from 15 to 20, b varies from 7 to 18 and c varies from 10 to 18.

The inventors have thus found that it is possible to overcome this deficiency of 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramides in the lips by the use of a precursor of 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramides or ascorbic acid and its analogues.

Thus, a precursor of 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramides or ascorbic acid and its analogues act as active agents for increasing the content of ceramides in the lips, in particular the fragile lips.

Indeed, they have found that a precursor of ceramides based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine is likely to be transformed into corresponding ceramides, for example by hydroxylation of its position 6 by enzymes such as 6-hydroxylases and thus allows the restoration of the ceramide content in the lips.

In addition, the inventors have found, unexpectedly, that ascorbic acid and its analogues, in particular, make it possible to obtain faster access to an increase in the content of 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramides in the lipids, in particular by increasing the conversion rate of 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursors, naturally present in 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramides. In fact, ascorbic acid and its analogs make it possible to activate the 6-hydroxylase pathway, enzymes involved in the transformation of 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursors into 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramides. by hydrolysis at the 6-position of the constitutive base of at least one precursor mentioned above.

The invention thus relates, according to a first object, to the cosmetic use of an active agent enabling the content of ceramides in the lips to be increased, in particular ceramide based on 6-hydroxy-4-shingenin, chosen from a ceramide precursor with 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine base, ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogs as a protective agent for brittle lips, in particular the vermilion area.

According to a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor, as a protective agent for fragile lips, and in particular the vermilion area.

• R₁ représente un radical alkyle ou alcényle en C₃ à C₃₀, en particulier en C₇ à C₂₅, et de préférence, en C₁₁ à C₂₁, et
• R₂ représente un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical hydrocarboné en C₃ à C₃₀, en particulier en C₅ à C₂₅, et de préférence en C₈ à C₂₄, linéaire, éventuellement hydroxylé et le groupe hydroxyle étant en position alpha du carbonyle, et pouvant comporter une ou plusieurs insaturations éthyléniques, notamment une ou deux insaturations éthyléniques ou de l'un de ses dérivés, à titre d'agent protecteur des lèvres fragiles, en particulier la zone des vermillons.

More particularly, it relates to the cosmetic use of a 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor compound of formula (I) below:

R ₁ -CHOH-CH (NH-COR ₂ ) (CH ₂ OH) (I)

in which :

• R ₁ represents a C ₃ to C ₃₀ , in particular C ₇ to C ₂₅ , and preferably C ₁₁ to C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl radical, and
• R ₂ represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical C ₃ to C ₃₀ , in particular C ₅ to C ₂₅ , and preferably C ₈ to C ₂₄ , linear, optionally hydroxylated and the hydroxyl group being in position alpha carbonyl, and may comprise one or more ethylenic unsaturations, in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations or one of its derivatives, as a protective agent for fragile lips, in particular the vermilion area.

More particularly, the subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a ceramide V or a ceramide V derivative as defined below as a protective agent for fragile lips, in particular the vermilion region.

According to another embodiment, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogs, as a protective agent for fragile lips and in particular the vermilion area.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "analogue" of ascorbic acid is intended to mean salts, esters, sugars and derivatives of ascorbic acid capable of exhibiting the same activity as ascorbic acid with respect to -vis the protection of fragile lips, and in particular vis-à-vis the prevention and / or treatment of clinical signs associated with fragile lips.

• la sensation d'inconfort et/ou de picotements : il s'agit d'un état sur lequel il est souhaitable d'apporter une réponse, de traitement ou de soin, qui permette de mieux supporter une gêne.
• la sensation de tiraillements : il s'agit d'une sensation de tension gênante sur les lèvres.
• la présence de squames : il s'agit de petites lamelles de stratum corneum qui se détachent de façon visible de l'épiderme.
• les plaques sèches : il s'agit de petites zones du stratum corneum épaissies, durcies, qui se détachent en plaques.
• les fendillements : il s'agit de petites plaies, apparaissant spontanément, au sein de la partie superficielle de l'épiderme, qui ont un aspect de coupures superficielles perpendiculaires à la surface des lèvres ; elles n'entraînent pas forcément de saignement.
• les fissures : il s'agit de fendillements plus importants dont la profondeur atteint l'épiderme profond et le derme.
• les saignements : il s'agit de suintement de sang par les fendillements ou fissures des lèvres.

The signs associated with fragile lips are detailed below. They can exist separately from each other or be associated.

• the feeling of discomfort and / or tingling: it is a condition on which it is desirable to provide an answer, treatment or care, which can better withstand discomfort.
• the feeling of tightness: it is a feeling of awkward tension on the lips.
• the presence of scales: these are small lamellae of stratum corneum that are visibly detached from the epidermis.
• dry plates: these are small areas of the stratum corneum that are thickened, hardened, and come off as plaques.
• splitting: these are small wounds, appearing spontaneously, within the superficial part of the epidermis, which have an appearance of superficial cuts perpendicular to the surface of the lips; they do not necessarily lead to bleeding.
• cracks: these are larger cracks whose depth reaches the deep epidermis and the dermis.
• Bleeding: this is oozing of blood by cracking or cracking of the lips.

• stade 1 : inconforts et/ou picotements et/ou tiraillements ;
• stade 2 : aux signes du stade 1 s'associent des squames et/ou des plaques sèches ;
• stade 3 : aux signes des stades 1 et 2 s'associent des fendillements et/ou des fissures et/ou des saignements.

The expression "fragile lips", in particular the vermilion zone, includes within the meaning of the invention the lips, in particular the zone of vermilions affected by least one of those signs associated with fragile lips especially from the vermilion area. Three clinical stages of increasing severity can be schematically described:

• stage 1: discomfort and / or tingling and / or tightness;
• stage 2: the signs of stage 1 are associated with scales and / or dry plaques;
• Stage 3: Signs of stages 1 and 2 are associated with cracks and / or fissures and / or bleeding.

The 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursors or ascorbic acid and its analogs, used as a protective agent for fragile lips, in particular the vermilion area, make it possible to prevent the appearance of the lips. fragile of the aforementioned clinical signs and / or treat lips showing at least one of these signs, and thus to have a repairing effect.

Thus, a ceramide precursor based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine or ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogs makes it possible in particular to prevent and / or treat the signs associated with fragile lips, in particular the zone of vermilion, discomfort sensations and / or tingling and / or tightness

A ceramide precursor based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine or ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues also makes it possible to prevent and / or treat the signs associated with fragile lips, in particular the zone vermilion, manifested by the presence of scales and / or dry plaques.

Finally, a ceramide precursor based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine or ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues also makes it possible to prevent and / or treat the signs associated with fragile lips, in particular the zone of vermilion, cracking and / or fissure type and / or bleeding.

According to one embodiment, the invention thus relates to the cosmetic use of a ceramide precursor compound based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine or ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues for agent capable of preventing and / or treating (i) the sensations of discomfort and / or tingling and / or tightness, (ii) the presence of scales and / or dry plaques, and / or (iii) cracks and / or cracks and / or bleeding, especially in subjects with fragile lips.

It relates preferably to the cosmetic use of a ceramide precursor compound based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine or ascorbic acid or from least one of its analogues as agent capable of preventing and / or treating (i) the sensations of discomfort and / or tingling and / or tightness and (ii) the presence of scales and / or plaques dry, especially in subjects with fragile lips.

The subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of subjects having fragile lips, in particular the vermilion area, comprising the application to the lips of said subjects of a composition comprising at least one 6-base ceramide precursor. 4-hydroxy-sphingenine or at least ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues according to the invention.

More specifically, it relates, according to a first embodiment, to a method of cosmetic treatment of subjects whose lips are affected by sensations of discomfort and / or tightness and / or tingling, or are predisposed to manifest these sensations, including application on the lips of said subjects of a composition comprising at least one ceramide precursor based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine or at least ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues.

According to a second embodiment, it relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of subjects whose lips are affected by scales and / or dry plates, associated or not with a feeling of discomfort and / or tightness and / or tingling , or are predisposed to manifesting these disorders, comprising applying to the lips of said subjects a composition comprising at least one 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor or at least one ascorbic acid or at least one one of his analogues.

According to a third embodiment, it relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of subjects whose lips are affected by cracks and / or cracks and / or bleeding, associated or not with dander and / or dry plates, and / or or a feeling of discomfort and / or tightness and / or tingling or are predisposed to manifesting these disorders, comprising the application to the lips of said subjects of a composition comprising at least one 6-hydroxy-4-based ceramide precursor -sphingenin or at least ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues.

The present invention furthermore relates to the use of a ceramide precursor based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine or ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues for the preparation of a composition , especially labial, dedicated to the protection of fragile lips and in particular the area of vermilion, and in particular intended for the treatment and / or prevention of clinical signs associated with fragile lips within the meaning of the invention.

The subject of the present invention is also a ceramide precursor based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine or ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues for their use as a protective agent for fragile lips and in particular the vermillons zone. for the treatment and / or prevention of clinical signs associated with fragile lips within the meaning of the invention.

The subject of the present invention is also the cosmetic use of a 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor or of ascorbic acid or of at least one of its analogues in order to overcome the deficiency of ceramides in the lips, in particular 6-hydroxy-4sphingenin-based ceramides, in subjects with fragile lips, and in particular to restore a physiologically acceptable ceramide content, especially 6-hydroxy-4sphingenin-based ceramides in the lips.

The present invention also relates to cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions, dedicated to a labial application, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium a ceramide precursor based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine or ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues as an asset for protecting fragile lips and in particular the vermilion area, and in particular for preventing and / or treating the aforementioned clinical signs.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "prevent" means decreasing the risk of occurrence of a phenomenon.

In general, as ceramide precursor based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine suitable for carrying out the invention, there may be mentioned ceramides V and their derivatives, as defined below.

6-HYDROXY-4-SPHINGENINE CERAMIDE PRECURSOR

• "céramides cibles", les céramides ou dérivés de céramide à base 6-hydroxy-4-sphingénine,
• "dérivés de céramide", les glycosylcéramides ou cérébrosides (soit l'association d'un céramide avec un sucre) ou les sphingomyélines (principalement céramide phosphorylcholine ou céramide phosphoryl éthanolamine), voir la forme hydrolysée du céramide c'est à dire la base sphingoïde seule ou phosphorylée, et par
• "précurseurs de céramide à base 6-hydroxy-4-sphingénine", ou encore "précurseurs de céramide cible", ou encore de manière plus simplifiée "précurseurs de céramide" des composés de type céramide ou dérivé de céramide capables d'être transformés en céramides ou dérivés de céramide à base 6-hydroxy-4-sphingénine, encore désigné sous le terme "céramide cible".

For the purposes of the invention, the term "designating" means:

• "target ceramides" means ceramides or ceramide derivatives based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine,
• "ceramide derivatives", glycosylceramides or cerebrosides (the combination of a ceramide with a sugar) or sphingomyelins (mainly ceramide phosphorylcholine or ceramide phosphoryl ethanolamine), see the hydrolysed form of ceramide ie the sphingoid base alone or phosphorylated, and by
• "ceramide precursors based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine", or "target ceramide precursors", or more simply "ceramide precursors" ceramide or ceramide-derivative compounds capable of being converted into "ceramide precursors"; ceramides or ceramide derivatives based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine, also referred to as "target ceramide".

A target ceramide precursor within the meaning of the invention thus designates a ceramide capable of being converted into a target ceramide, for example by hydroxylation of its position 6. Such hydroxylation may for example be carried out by 6-hydroxylases, which are enzymes which provide in vivo synthesis of 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramides or derivatives by hydroxylation at the 6-position of the sphingoid base of target ceramide precursors.

The ceramide or 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide derivative precursor may be a ceramide or a sphingosine-based ceramide derivative.

Said sphingosine base can then be advantageously of erythroid conformation (2S, 3R).

The ceramide or 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide derivative precursor may alternatively be a ceramide or a sphinganine-based ceramide derivative.

In general, it can be a compound of formula (I):

R ₁ -CHOH-CH (NH-COR ₂ ) (CH ₂ -OH) (I)

as defined previously.

It may especially be a compound of formula (I) in which R ₁ represents a C ₁₄ to C ₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl radical, especially C ₁₅ .

It may also be a compound of formula (I) in which R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon radical C ₁₁ to C ₁₉ , preferably C ₁₅ to C ₁₉ .

As a compound of formula (I) that can be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine (or 2-oleoylamino-1,3-octadecanediol) and ceramides V.

By ceramide V is meant within the meaning of the invention any 4-sphingenine or sphinganine acylated by an α-hydroxylated fatty acid having from 4 to 31 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, for example from 9 to 25 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 16 to 20 carbon atoms.

dans lesquelles n varie de 1 à 28, notamment de 3 à 23, par exemple de 6 à 22, de préférence de 9 à 17, voire de 13 à 17.The ceramides V may thus be chosen from the following compounds of formula (IV) and (V):

in which n varies from 1 to 28, in particular from 3 to 23, for example from 6 to 22, preferably from 9 to 17, or even from 13 to 17.

As ceramide V, mention may also be made of sphingosine acylated with 2-hydroxystearic acid, also known under the name 2- (2'-hydroxystearyl) amino octadecane-1,3-diol, or alternatively α-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine.

The invention relates, according to another of its aspects, to a composition for labial application comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least two compounds of formula (I) as defined above.

It may especially be a composition for labial application comprising at least N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine and α-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine.

According to another aspect, the uses and compositions according to the invention can use a ceramide precursor within the meaning of the present invention, as sole cosmetic and / or dermatological active agent or be associated with one or more other assets as defined in the following.

In the context of the present invention, a ceramide precursor based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine, and for example a ceramide V or one of their derivatives can be implemented in a cosmetic or dermatological composition and in particular in a composition for lip application.

A ceramide precursor based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine, and for example a ceramide V or one of its derivatives may be present in a composition for lip application according to the present invention in a content ranging from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, for example from 0.001 to 5%, and preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As indicated above, according to one embodiment of the invention, the ceramide precursor, such as, for example, a ceramide V, may be the only active ingredient useful as a protective agent for fragile lips.

According to another embodiment, it may be the only cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredient of the composition for labial application. In this case, the compositions according to the invention are especially free of other active agents, and in particular for example ascorbic acid or one of its analogues. Such compositions form part of the present invention.

As indicated above, according to another embodiment, a 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor may be combined in the compositions according to the invention with other active agents capable of participating in the manifestation of the effect. sought or to provide additional effects or even any other effect provided that it does not hinder the manifestation of the desired effect, as defined below. Such compositions form part of the present invention.

The subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for the care or non-therapeutic treatment of the lips of human beings, comprising the application on the lips of a composition as defined according to the present invention, comprising at least one ceramide precursor to 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine base.

As indicated above, ascorbic acid and its analogues also make it possible to increase the ceramide content in the lips, particularly in subjects with fragile lips.

Ascorbic acid and its analogues are defined in detail in the following.

ASCORBIC ACID (Vitamin C) AND ITS ANALOGUES

As indicated above, ascorbic acid and its analogs make it possible to activate the 6-hydroxylase pathway and thus to obtain an increase in the content of ceramides in the lips.

Applied in contact with the lips, ascorbic acid and its analogues will make it possible to specifically transform the target ceramide precursors naturally present in the lips. In order to determine whether a substance, such as ascorbic acid or its analogs, is an activator of the 6-hydroxylase pathway according to the invention, it is possible to use any analytical method making it possible to quantify the content of the lips in sphingolipids, advantageously in ceramides or ceramide derivatives, based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine and measure whether this content is increased following the labial application of said substance.

dans laquelle :

• R₆ représente un atome d'hydrogène, une chaîne hydrocarbonée ayant de 15 à 20 atomes de carbone, un reste de sucre, un groupe carbonyle, un groupe alkyloxycarbonyle ou un groupe carbamoyle, ou bien R₆O représente une fonction sulfate ou une fonction phosphate,
• R₇ représente un atome d'hydrogène, un reste de sucre ou un groupe -COR₁₀ où R₁₀ est choisi parmi :
  1. (a) un radical hydrocarboné en C₁C₂₀, saturé ou insaturé, linéaire, cyclique ou ramifié, éventuellement hydroxylé,
  2. (b) un radical aryle éventuellement hydroxylé,
  3. (c) un radical aralkyle de formule (III) :
     
• où R, R' et R", identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un radical hydroxy, alkoxy, fluoroalkoxy ou alkylcarbonyloxy, et
• R₈, R₉, identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe -COR₁₀ tel que défini précédemment ou encore, pris ensemble, forment un radical isopropylidène, ou un sel de ce dérivé.

Preferably, the ascorbic acid may be in D or L form, advantageously in L form, and its analogues chosen from its salts, preferably sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbylphosphate, and its esters, preferably its acetic, propionic or palmitic esters, or its sugars, preferably glycosylated ascorbic acid, and the derivatives of formula (II):

in which :

• R ₆ represents a hydrogen atom, a hydrocarbon chain having 15 to 20 carbon atoms, a sugar residue, a carbonyl group, an alkyloxycarbonyl group or a carbamoyl group, or R ₆ O represents a sulfate function or a function phosphate,
• R ₇ represents a hydrogen atom, a sugar residue or a -COR ₁₀ group where R ₁₀ is chosen from:
  1. (a) a linear or cyclic or branched, optionally hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon-based radical,
  2. (b) an optionally hydroxylated aryl radical,
  3. (c) an aralkyl radical of formula (III):
     
• where R, R 'and R ", identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy, alkoxy, fluoroalkoxy or alkylcarbonyloxy radical, and
• R ₈ , R ₉ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a -COR ₁₀ group as defined above or, taken together, form an isopropylidene radical, or a salt of this derivative.

By "sugar residue" is preferably meant a residue of glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose or N-acetylglucosamine.

By "saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms", is meant for example a radical chosen from the group consisting of methyl, ethyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl and iso-butyl radicals, tert-butyl, hexyl, heptyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, nonyl, iso-nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl and octadecyl, and preferably the undecyl radical.

In addition, the term "unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms" more particularly means a radical selected from the group consisting of radicals containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms and having one or more ethylenic unsaturations, in particular the allyl radical.

The preferred or unsubstituted aryl radical is the benzyl radical.

Examples of aralkyl radicals of formula (III) above are those in which the aryl group is substituted with: one or more hydroxy radicals; alkoxy such as a radical selected from the group consisting of methoxy, ethoxy and butoxy, and preferably the methoxy radical; fluoroalkoxy such as the trifluoromethoxy radical; and alkylcarbonyloxy such as a radical selected from the group consisting of acetoxy, propionyloxy and butyryloxy, and preferably acetoxy.

Suitable ascorbic acid analogs according to the present invention may be selected from ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl-2-phosphate, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, L-ascorbyl ascorbyl-2-sodium phosphate, ascorbyl tetra-iso-palmitate and cetyl ether of vitamin C (or vitamin C-3-O-hexadecane), and preferably among ascorbyl palmitate and ether cetyl vitamin C.

The cetyl ether of vitamin C is in particular commercially available from the company NIKKOL.

According to another aspect, the uses and compositions according to the invention can use ascorbic acid or one of its analogues as the only cosmetic and / or dermatological active agent or be associated with one or more other assets, as defined in the following.

As specified above, ascorbic acid and / or at least one of its analogs can be used in the context of the present invention in a cosmetic or dermatological composition, and in particular in a composition for lip application. .

The ascorbic acid and / or at least one of its analogs may be present in a lip composition according to the present invention in a total content of from 0.0001 to 20% by weight. , for example from 0.001 to 10%, and preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As indicated above, according to one embodiment of the invention, the ascorbic acid and / or at least one of its analogues can be the only useful active ingredient (s). ) as a protective agent for fragile lips.

According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may contain ascorbic acid or one of its analogues as a sole protective active agent with respect to fragile lips. In this case, the compositions according to the invention are in particular free of another active ingredient and in particular 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor as defined above.

As indicated previously, according to another embodiment, the lip composition according to the present invention containing ascorbic acid and / or at least one of its analogs may further comprise one or more other cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents which are detailed below in the description which follows. These additional active agents are likely to participate in the manifestation of the desired effect or to provide additional effects or even any other effect provided that it does not hinder the manifestation of the desired effect, as defined below.

The subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for the care or non-therapeutic treatment of the lips of human beings, comprising the application on the lips of a composition as defined above, comprising at least ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues.

According to another aspect of the invention, the uses and compositions according to the invention may use at least one of ascorbic acid or one of its analogues and at least one precursor of 6-hydroxy-4-based ceramide. -sphingénine.

ASSOCIATION OF A PRECURSOR OF CERAMIDES AND ASCORBIC ACID AND / OR ITS ANALOGUES

When applied in contact with the lips, a composition comprising ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues will make it possible to specifically transform the precursors of target ceramides present naturally in the lips, as well as those provided by the lip composition according to the invention, comprising 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursors.

By bringing on the lips ascorbic acid and its analogues and the precursor of ceramide as defined above, is thus directly available to the lips all the components necessary to obtain the target ceramides. Thus, the increase in target ceramides will not be to the detriment of ceramide precursors naturally present in the lips although it is not excluded that they are also mobilized by 6-hydroxylase enzymes. The provision of ceramide precursors thus makes it possible to gain faster and greater access to an increase in the lip content of target ceramides without the natural biosynthesis upstream of the target ceramide precursors being a limiting factor.

Thus, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least ascorbic acid or one of its analogues associated with at least one 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor, said association being dedicated to the protection of fragile lips, in particular the area of vermilion, and associated clinical signs, as defined above.

According to another embodiment, the invention relates to a composition, for labial application, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor, in particular a compound of formula (I) such as defined above associated with at least ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues as defined above.

A labial composition according to this aspect of the invention may in particular comprise, in a physiologically acceptable medium, ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues associated with at least one 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor. identical or different, and preferably different, ceramide precursors naturally present in the lips.

According to another embodiment, the use and composition according to the invention may use at least ascorbic acid or one of its analogues as defined above and / or at least one ceramide precursor based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine, in combination with one or more additional active agents as defined below.

As a cosmetic and / or dermatological active agent, which can be used in combination with a 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor and / or ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues such as As previously indicated, a substance providing an action at the level of the application support, in this case the lips, which by a mechanism of action of its own, modifies its structure and / or its metabolism. Some of these assets are detailed below. Thus, it may for example also be a protective action of fragile lips, but also a healing, soothing, moisturizing or even desquamating action. Typically, the physiologically acceptable medium as defined below, or the structuring agents, the film-forming polymers and dyestuffs are not active.

These assets are likely to participate in the manifestation of the desired effect or to provide additional effects, or indeed any other effect as long as they do not hinder the manifestation of the desired effect.

As indicated above, a composition according to the present invention, in particular a composition for labial application, may further comprise one or more other cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents which are detailed in the following.

ADDITIONAL ASSETS

The additional active agents that may provide additional effects may notably belong to the family of moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, anti-pollution or anti-radical agents, soothing agents and healing agents.

Moisturizing agents

• soit un composé agissant sur la fonction barrière, en vue de maintenir l'hydratation du stratum corneum, ou un composé occlusif. On peut citer les céramides distincts des précurseurs de céramide considérés précédemment, les composés à base sphingoïde, les lécithines, les glycosphingolipides, les phospholipides, le cholestérol et ses dérivés, les phytostérols (stigmastérol, β-sitostérol, campestérol), les acides gras libres, les acides gras essentiels, le 1-2 diacylglycérol, la vaseline et la lanoline ;
• soit un composé augmentant directement la teneur en eau du stratum corneum, tel que le thréalose et ses dérivés, l'acide hyaluronique et ses dérivés, le glycérol, le pentanediol, le xylitol, le polyacrylate de glycérol, l'ectoïne et ses dérivés, le chitosane, les oligo- et polysaccharides comme le produit commercialisé sous la référence Pentavitin, les alginates (notamment le produit Sobalg PH 154 commercialisé par la société Grindsted).

By "moisturizing agent" is meant:

• either a compound acting on the barrier function, in order to maintain hydration of the stratum corneum, or an occlusive compound. There may be mentioned ceramides distinct ceramide precursors considered previously, sphingoid-based compounds, lecithins, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols (stigmasterol, β-sitosterol, campesterol), free fatty acids essential fatty acids, 1-2 diacylglycerol, petrolatum and lanolin;
• a compound directly increasing the water content of the stratum corneum, such as thralose and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, glycerol, pentanediol, xylitol, glycerol polyacrylate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan, oligo- and polysaccharides, such as the product marketed under the Pentavitin reference, and alginates (in particular the product Sobalg PH 154 marketed by Grindsted).

In particular, ascorbic acid or one of its analogues and / or a ceramide precursor may be associated with a natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin as defined below.

By "natural hydration factor (or NMF for" natural monthtering factor ") deriving in particular from the degradation of filaggrin" is meant in the sense of the invention a derivative compound, that is to say derived directly or indirectly, proteolysis of filaggrin.

NMFs derived from degradation of filaggrin useful according to the invention include serine, tryptophan, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urocanic acid, and their salts and derivatives.

The term "derivatives" is intended to denote the isomers, the esters and the ester salts of these compounds, when they exist.

For example, the serine considered according to the invention may be chosen from L-serine, D-serine or (D, L) -serine.

According to one embodiment, the natural factor (s) of hydration deriving from the degradation of filaggrin can be chosen from pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), its salts, in particular of sodium, of lysine, of arginine, of aluminum, of magnesium, of copper, of zinc, of manganese, and its derivatives, for example, its lipophilic derivatives, in particular the pyrrolidone carboxylate of menthyl, its esters of C ₂ to C ₂₄ , branched or linear, and more particularly C ₈ to C ₁₄ , and especially lauryl, cetyl, octyldodecyl, and tetradecyl and the salts of its esters, for example PCA cocoyl and sodium.

Use may in particular the PCA esters octyidodecyl tetradecyl marketed by Solabia respectively under references Ceramidone Myristidone ^® and ^®, or the PCA cocoyl and sodium marketed by the company and SCHWARZ ZSCHIMMER under reference protelan NMA ^® .

According to one embodiment, the invention thus relates to the cosmetic use of ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogs as a protective agent for fragile lips, in which it is associated with a natural hydration factor derived from the degradation of filaggrin.

In particular, it relates to the cosmetic use according to the invention in which the ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues is associated with serine.

It also relates to the cosmetic use according to the invention in which the ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues is associated with tryptophan.

These compounds These active agents can represent from 0.001% to 30% and preferably from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Desquamating agents

• soit directement sur la desquamation en favorisant l'exfoliation, tel que les β-hydroxyacides, en particulier l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés (dont l'acide n-octanoyl 5-salicylique) ; les α-hydroxyacides, tels que les acides glycolique, tartrique, malique ou mandélique ; l'acide gentisique ; les oligofucoses ; l'acide cinnamique ; l'extrait de Saphora japonica ; le resvératrol et certains dérivés d'acide jasmonique ;
• soit sur les enzymes impliquées dans la desquamation ou la dégradation des cornéodesmosomes, les glycosidases, la stratum corneum chymotryptic enzym (SCCE) voire d'autres protéases (trypsine, chymotrypsine-like). On peut citer les agents chélatant des sels minéraux : l'EDTA ; l'acide N-acyl-N,N',N' éthylène diaminetriacétique ; les composés aminosulfoniques et en particulier l'acide 4-(2-hydroxyéthyl)piperazine-1-propane sulfonique (HEPES) ; les dérivés de l'acide 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylique (procystéine) ; les dérivés de sucre tels que l'O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose et la N-acétyl glucosamine.

By "desquamating agent" is meant any compound capable of acting:

• either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as β-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid); α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives;
• or on enzymes involved in desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of the chelating agents for mineral salts: EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N', ethylene diaminetriacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.

Anti-pollution or anti-radical agent

By the term "anti-pollution agent" is meant any compound capable of trapping ozone, mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds such as benzopyrene and / or heavy metals such as cobalt, mercury, cadmium and / or nickel. By "anti-radical agent" is meant any compound capable of trapping free radicals.

As ozone-trapping agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular; phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing it; olive leaf extracts; tea extracts, especially green tea; anthocyanins; rosemary extracts; phenolic acids, in particular chorogenic acid; stilbenes, in particular resveratrol; chelating agents such as N, N'-bis- (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine or a salt thereof, metal complexes or esters; carotenoids such as crocetin.

As scavengers for mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of tannins such as ellagic acid; indole derivatives, in particular indol-3-carbinol; tea extracts especially green tea, water hyacinth extracts or eichornia crassipes.

Finally, as scavengers for heavy metals that may be used in the composition according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular chelating agents such as EDTA, the pentasodium salt of ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonic acid, and N, N'-bis- ( 3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine or a salt thereof, metal complexes or esters; phytic acid; chitosan derivatives; tea extracts, especially green tea; tannins such as ellagic acid.

The anti-radical agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, in addition to certain anti-pollution agents mentioned above, vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone; certain enzymes such as catalase, superoxide dismutase and wheat germ extracts containing it, lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and quinone reductases; glutathione; benzylidene camphor; benzylcyclanones; substituted naphthalenones; phytantriol; gamma-oryzanol; guanosine; lignans and melatonin.

Soothing agents

As soothing agents that may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of: pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra) containing them, for example β-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts and / or derivatives thereof glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid), ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, plant extracts such as Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, Laminaria saccharina, Boswellia serrata, Centipeda cunnighami, Helianthus annuus, Linum usitatissimum, Cola nitida, Epilobium Angustifolium, Aloe vera, Bacopa monieri, salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, oil canola, bisabolol and chamomile extracts, allantoin, sepivital EPC (vitamin E diesterphosphoric acid) from Seppic, unsaturated omega 3 oils such as rose uscat, cassis, ecchium, or fish, plankton extracts, tocotrienols, piperonal, clove extract, phytosterols, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta methasone.

Healing agents

Examples of healing agents include extract of fern leaves sold under the reference Mamaku Vital Essence ^® by Lucas Meyer, rice peptides obtained by hydrolysis of rice protein sold under the name Nutripeptide® ^® by Silab, oxide zinc, vitamin B5.

• les composés favorisant la microcirculation sanguine tels que les agents favorisant la production de monoxyde d'azote ; les agents anti-hypertenseurs en particulier les ouvreurs de canaux potassium ; les agents inhibiteurs de phosphodiestérases ; les flavonoïdes ou les flavoglycosides ; les glucosides tels que le C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane ; les extraits végétaux aux propriétés vasodilatatrices ; d'autres agents vasodilatateurs et les agents modulateurs de la température,
• les composés myorelaxants tels que le gluconate de magnésium, le gluconate de manganèse et l'extrait de Rose.

Among the active agents that do not provide a complementary effect but provide effects other than the protective effect of fragile lips, as long as they do not hinder the manifestation of the desired effect, there may be mentioned in particular:

• compounds that promote blood microcirculation, such as agents promoting the production of nitric oxide; antihypertensive agents, in particular potassium channel openers; phosphodiesterase inhibiting agents; flavonoids or flavoglycosides; glucosides such as C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; plant extracts with vasodilating properties; other vasodilating agents and temperature modulating agents,
• muscle relaxant compounds such as magnesium gluconate, manganese gluconate and Rose extract.

As other particular combinations that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may also be made of the combination of an active agent for increasing the ceramide content as defined according to the present invention, in particular chosen from ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues or a ceramide precursor in the image, for example a ceramide V or a ceramide V derivative, with at least one additional active agent chosen from the extracts of Centella Asiatica, madecassoside, vitamin B5, hydroxyethyl urea, zinc oxide and C-β- D - xylopyranoside - 2-hydroxypropane.

The additional active agent (s) that may be associated with the ceramide precursor or with ascorbic acid or its analogues may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 20% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In general, ascorbic acid and / or one of its analogues or the precursor of 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine, in association or not with another active agent, in particular as defined above, is used. in a physiologically acceptable medium in the form of a composition.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE ENVIRONMENT

By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium compatible with the lips, such as oils or organic solvents commonly used in cosmetic compositions.

These oils may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 90%, and better still from 0.1 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The physiologically acceptable medium of the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more physiologically acceptable organic solvents (acceptable tolerance, toxicology and touch).

The non-aqueous organic solvent is preferably a non-water-soluble compound and liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

The physiologically acceptable medium may comprise a hydrophilic medium comprising water or a mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvent (s) such as alcohols and in particular lower linear or branched monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, diglycerine, propylene glycol, sorbitol, penthylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols, or alternatively C ₂ ethers and C aldehydes; ₂ -C ₄ hydrophilic.

The composition according to the invention may also be substantially free of such a hydrophilic medium. The composition according to the invention may comprise less than 5% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition and may in particular be anhydrous.

SOLVENT PHASE

The non-aqueous solvent phase formed by the oils and solvents is capable of forming a continuous phase.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile compound" means any compound (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the lips in less than one hour, room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile compound is a volatile cosmetic compound which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^-3). at 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg), Hg).

By contrast, the term "non-volatile compound" means a compound remaining on the lips at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

The volatile compound, which is insoluble in water and liquid at ambient temperature, is in particular an oil (liquid substance at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure) or a physiologically acceptable organic solvent.

The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or mixtures thereof.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes, for instance C ₈ -C ₁₆ isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethyl) isodecane and isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names "Isopar ^®" or "Permethyl ^®" branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name "Shell Solt ^®" by the company Shell, may also be used.

As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity of less than 8 centistokes, and especially having from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 22 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane and heptamethyloctyl. trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

The non-aqueous solvent phase may also comprise at least one non-volatile compound, which is not soluble in water and which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular at least one non-volatile oil, which may in particular be chosen from hydrocarbon and / or silicone oils and and / or fluorinated nonvolatile and preferably bright.

• les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine végétale telles que les triglycérides constitués d'esters d'acides gras et de glycérol dont les acides gras peuvent avoir des longueurs de chaînes variées de C₄ à C₂₄, ces derniers pouvant être linéaires ou ramifiées, saturées ou insaturées ; ces huiles sont notamment les huiles de germe de blé, de tournesol, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de maïs, d'abricot, de ricin, de karité, d'avocat, d'olive, de soja, l'huile d'amande douce, de palme, de colza, de coton, de noisette, de macadamia, de jojoba, de luzerne, de pavot, de potimarron, de sésame, de courge, de colza, de cassis, d'onagre, de millet, d'orge, de quinoa, de seigle, de carthame, de bancoulier, de passiflore, de rosier muscat ; ou encore les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique comme ceux vendus par la société Stéarineries Dubois ou ceux vendus sous les dénominations de "Miglyol 810^®" , "812^® " et "818^® " par la société Dynamit Nobel ;
• les éthers de synthèse ayant de 10 à 40 atomes de carbone ;
• les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale ou synthétique tels que la vaseline, les polydécènes, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que le parléam, le squalane, et leurs mélanges ;
• les esters de synthèse comme les huiles de formule R₁COOR₂ dans laquelle R₁ représente le reste d'un acide gras linéaire ou ramifié comportant de 1 à 40 atomes de carbone et R₂ représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée notamment ramifiée contenant de 1 à 40 atomes de carbone à condition que R₁ + R₂ soit ≥ 10, comme par exemple l'huile de Purcellin (octanoate de cétostéaryle), le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'isopropyle, le benzoate d'alcool en C₁₂ à C₁₅, le laurate d'hexyle, l'adipate de diisopropyle, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, le palmitate de 2-éthyl-hexyle, l'isostéarate d'isostéarate, des octanoates, décanoates ou ricinoléates d'alcools ou de polyalcools comme le dioctanoate de propylène glycol ; les esters hydroxylés comme le lactate d'isostéaryle, le malate de di-isostéaryle ; et les esters du pentaérythritol ;
• les alcools gras liquides à température ambiante à chaîne carbonée ramifiée et/ou insaturée ayant de 12 à 26 atomes de carbone comme l'octyl dodécanol, l'alcool isostéarylique, l'alcool oléique, le 2-hexyldécanol, le 2-butyloctanol, le 2-undécylpentadécanol ;
• les acides gras supérieurs tels que l'acide oléique, l'acide linoléique, l'acide linolénique et leurs mélanges.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, mention may notably be made of:

• hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths of C ₄ to C ₂₄ , the latter possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names "Miglyol 810 ^®", "812 ^®" and "818 ^®" by the company Dynamit Nobel;
• synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
• linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof;
• synthetic esters such as oils of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R ₁ + R ₂ is ≥ 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C ₁₂ alcohol benzoate, C ₁₅ , hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols like the dioctanoate propylene glycol; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;
• branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;
• higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

The fluorinated oils that may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers and fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752 .

THICKENING / STRUCTURING AGENT

The compositions in accordance with the invention can be in thickened form, especially anhydrous form, for example in the form of a stick. They may be thickened with at least one thickening agent chosen from fatty phase gelling agents, waxes, pasty fatty substances, fillers and mixtures thereof.

Fatty phase gelling agents that may be mentioned are optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl-dimethyl ammonium chloride. ; silica; partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16, KSG18 by Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C from Dow-Corning, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR DMF gel, SR DC 556 Grant gel General Electric Industries, SF 1204 and JK 113; galactomannans having one to six and preferably two to four hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated with C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl chains and better still C ₁ to C ₃ and more particularly ethyl guar having a degree of substitution of 2 to 3 such as that sold by Aqualon under the name N-HANCE-AG; gums, especially silicone gums, for instance polydimethylsiloxane PDMSs having a viscosity> 500,000 centistokes and / or a molecular weight greater than or equal to 200,000 g / mol; silicone polyamides.

It is also possible to use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in the documents US Patent No. 5,874,069 , US Patent 5,919,441 , US Patent 6,051,216 and US Patent No. 5,981,680 .

• des polyorganosiloxanes comportant au moins deux groupes capables d'établir des interactions hydrogène, ces deux groupes étant situés dans la chaîne du polymère, et/ou
• des polyorganosiloxanes comportant au moins deux groupes capables d'établir des interactions hydrogène, ces deux groupes étant situés sur des greffons ou ramifications.

These silicone polymers can belong to the following two families:

• polyorganosiloxanes having at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or
• polyorganosiloxanes having at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, both groups being located on grafts or branches.

These gelling agents are used for example at concentrations of 0.05 to 15% of the total weight of the composition.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may contain at least one wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than 30 ° C. that can be used. up to 200 ° C, a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixed.

The waxes that can be used in the invention are solid compounds at room temperature, intended to structure the composition, in particular in the form of a stick; they can be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. In particular, they have a melting temperature of greater than 40 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C.

As waxes that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of those generally used in the cosmetics field: they are in particular of natural origin, such as beeswax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, fiber wax, cork or sugar cane, rice, Montan, paraffin, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, hydrogenated oils such as jojoba oil; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene and Fischer-Tropsch waxes or fatty acid esters such as octacosanyl stearate, glycerides concretes at 40 ° C and better at 45 ° C. ° C, silicone waxes such as alkyl- or alkoxydimethicones having an alkyl or alkoxy chain of 10 to 45 carbon atoms, esters of poly (di) methylsiloxane solid at 40 ° C whose ester chain comprises at least 10 atoms of carbon; and their mixtures.

The compositions in accordance with the invention advantageously contain polyethylene wax with a weight-average molecular weight of between 300 and 700 g / mol, in particular equal to 500 g / mol.

As an indication, the wax may represent from 0.01 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 40%, and better still from 5 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also contain at least one pasty compound.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising at the temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. "Paste" is also understood to mean vinyl polylaurate.

• les composés fluorés polymères ou non,
• les composés siliconés polymères ou non,
• les polymères vinyliques,
• les homopolymères d'oléfines,
• les copolymères d'oléfines,
• les homopolymères et copolymères de diènes hydrogénés,
• les oligomères linéaires ou ramifiés, homo ou copolymères de (méth)acrylates d'alkyles ayant de préférence un groupement alkyle en C₈-C₃₀,
• les oligomères homo et copolymères d'esters vinyliques ayant des groupements alkyles en C₈-C₃₀,
• les oligomères homo et copolymères de vinyléthers ayant des groupements alkyles en C₈-C₃₀,
• les polyéthers liposolubles résultant de la polyéthérification entre un ou plusieurs diols en C₂-C₁₀₀, de préférence en C₂-C₅₀,
• les esters, et
• leurs mélanges.

The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from:

• polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds,
• polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds,
• vinyl polymers,
• homopolymers of olefins,
• olefin copolymers,
• homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes,
• linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl group,
• homo- and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having alkyl groups of C ₈ -C _30,
• homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups,
• liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C ₂ -C ₁₀₀ and preferably C ₂ -C ₅₀ diols,
• esters, and
• their mixtures.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C ₆ -C ₃₀ long-chain alkylene oxides are preferred, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene. -oxide and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22). mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) marketed under the tradename ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

• les esters d'un glycérol oligomère, notamment les esters de diglycérol, en particulier les condensats d'acide adipique et de glycérol, pour lesquels une partie des groupes hydroxyle des glycérols ont réagi avec un mélange d'acides gras tels que l'acide stéarique, l'acide caprique, l'acide stéarique et l'acide isostéarique et l'acide 12-hydroxystéarique, à l'image notamment de ceux commercialisé sous la marque Softisan 649 par la société Sasol
• le propionate d'arachidyle commercialisé sous la marque Waxenol 801 par Alzo,
• les esters de phytostérol,
• les polyesters non réticulés résultant de la polycondensation entre un diacide ou un polyacide carboxylique linéaire ou ramifié en C₄-C₅₀ et un diol ou un polyol en C₂-C₅₀, différent du polyester décrit précédemment,
• les esters aliphatiques d'ester résultant de l'estérification d'un ester d'acide hydroxycarboxylique aliphatique par un acide monocarboxylique aliphatique, et leurs mélanges, comme
  • l'ester résultant de la réaction d'estérification de l'huile de ricin hydrogénée avec l'acide isostéarique dans les proportions 1 pour 1 (1/1) ou monoisostéarate d'huile de ricin hydrogénée,
  • l'ester résultant de la réaction d'estérification de l'huile de ricin hydrogénée avec l'acide isostéarique dans les proportions 1 pour 2 (1/2) ou le diisostéarate d'huile de ricin hydrogénée,
  • l'ester résultant de la réaction d'estérification de l'huile de ricin hydrogénée avec l'acide isostéarique dans les proportions 1 pour 3 (1/3) ou triisostéarate d'huile de ricin hydrogénée,
  • et leurs mélanges.

Among the pasty esters, it is particularly preferred:

• esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid; , capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially in the image of those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol
• arachidyl propionate marketed under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo,
• the phytosterol esters,
• non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C ₄ -C ₅₀ diacid or polycarboxylic acid and a diol or a C ₂ -C ₅₀ polyol, other than the polyester described above,
• aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof, such as
  • the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1 to 1 (1: 1) or hydrogenated castor oil monoisostearate,
  • the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 2 (1/2) or hydrogenated castor oil diisostearate,
  • the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 3 (1/3) or hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate,
  • and their mixtures.

Among the pasty compounds of plant origin, a mixture of soybean sterols and oxyethylenated (5OE) oxypropylene pentaerythritol (5OP), marketed under the reference Lanolide by the company VEVY, will preferably be chosen.

The pasty compound preferably represents 1 to 99%, more preferably 1 to 60%, more preferably 2 to 30% and more preferably 5 to 20% by weight of the composition.

As specified above, the compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more fillers, especially in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight.

By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.

The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of polyamide (Nylon ^® ) (Orgasol ^® from Atochem), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, polymer powders of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon ^® ), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, microspheres hollow polymers such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel ^® (Nobel Industry), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap ^® 603 from Dow Corning) and silicone resin microspheres (Tospearls ^® from Toshiba, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads ^® from Maprecos), glass or glass microcapsules ceramic, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium or lithium, the zinc aurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore ^® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation). Mention may also be made of silica-based fillers such as Aerosil 200 and Aerosil 300; Sunsphare L-31, Sunphare H-31 marketed by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen marketed by Asahi Chemical; silica and titanium dioxide composites such as the TSG series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass. Finally, mention may be made of polyurethane powders, in particular crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400 ^® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800 ^® from the company TOSHIKI.

COLORING MATERIAL

According to a particular embodiment, the compositions in accordance with the invention comprise at least one dyestuff which may be chosen from dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and their mixtures. This dyestuff may represent from 0.001 to 98%, preferably from 0.1 to 85% and especially from 0.5 to 60% of the total weight of the composition.

For obvious reasons, these dyestuffs are used in the compositions according to the invention, so as not to damage the effect. more particularly sought according to the invention and which aims in particular to provide a protection of fragile lips.

For a composition in the form of paste or casting such as lipsticks, use is generally made of 0.5 to 50% of dyestuff, preferably 2 to 40% and especially 5 to 30%, relative to the weight total of the composition.

The dyes are preferably fat-soluble dyes, although water-soluble dyes can be used. Liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C orange 5, yellow quinoline, annatto. They may represent from 0 to 20% of the weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 6%. The water-soluble dyes are in particular beet juice, methylene blue and may represent from 0.01 to 6% by weight of the composition (if present).

By pigments must be understood white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the liquid fatty phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition. By nacres, it is necessary to understand iridescent particles, in particular produced by some shellfish in their shell or else synthesized.

The pigments may be present in the composition in a proportion of 0.05 to 30% by weight of the final composition, and preferably in a proportion of 0.1 to 20%. As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, and lacquers of barium, strontium, calcium (D & C Red No. 7), aluminum.

The nacres may be present in the composition in a proportion of 0.001 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, preferably at a rate of the order of 1 to 15%. Among the nacres that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride such as colored titanium mica.

The compositions may also advantageously contain gonio-chromatic pigments, for example interferential multilayer pigments, and / or reflective pigments. These two types of pigments are described in the document FR 0 209 246 whose contents are incorporated by reference in this application.

FILMOGENE POLYMER

The composition may further comprise a film-forming polymer.

According to the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on the lips.

Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the composition in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. As film-forming polymer, there may be mentioned in particular acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulose polymers such as nitrocellulose.

The polymer may be associated with one or more auxiliary film-forming agents. Such a film-forming agent may be chosen from all the compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function, and in particular be chosen from plasticizers and coalescing agents.

The composition in accordance with the invention may furthermore comprise any ingredient usually used in the field of lip care, such as essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, liposoluble polymers, in particular hydrocarbon-based polymers such as polyalkylenes or vinyl polylaurate, aqueous phase gelling agents, surfactants, emollients, tensors, vitamins, essential fatty acids, lipophilic or hydrophilic sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

Of course those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their amount so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.

A composition of the invention may be in the form of a paste, in particular of soft paste, solid, cream, foam, spray, powder or even liquid. It can be an oil-in-water (O / W), oil-in-polyol, water-in-oil (W / O), water-in-polyol, multiple emulsion (W / O / E or polyol) emulsion. / H / E or H / E / H), an anhydrous gel, a solid or a soft paste, a liquid oily phase, a suspension, a dispersion or a solution. Preferably, it is in the form of an anhydrous solid composition, and more particularly in the form of a stick.

Those skilled in the art may choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of its general knowledge, taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand, of the application envisaged for the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may be in anhydrous thick form. Also, the invention relates more particularly to an anhydrous makeup or care composition of fragile, thickened lips containing at least one thickening agent chosen from fatty phase gelling agents, waxes, fillers and mixtures thereof as detailed hereinabove. after.

A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a dermatological composition or lip care, or in the form of a sun protection composition of the lips. It is then in uncoloured form, optionally containing cosmetic or dermatological active agents, other than the ceramide precursor, as detailed below. It can then be used in the form of care base for fragile lips. It can especially take the form of a lip balm, including protecting the lips intrinsic and external factors that may promote the occurrence of fragile lips. These external factors include cold, UV radiation, wind and physico-chemical stimulation such as eating, lipstick, smoking and language.

The composition according to the invention may also be in the form of a colored product for making up the lips, such as a lipstick or a lip gloss or gloss, having care and / or treatment properties.

Of course the composition according to the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, namely non-toxic and may be applied to the lips of humans.

According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention may be in a form compatible with oral administration. According to this alternative, it is applied to the lips by bringing it into contact with the saliva containing it.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care or non-therapeutic treatment of the lips of human beings, comprising the application to the lips of a composition as defined above.

The invention is further illustrated by, but not limited to, the following examples. The percentages are given by weight.

Example 1

Stick of colored lipstick for fragile lips Castor oil 3% Vaseline oil 9% Lanolin 15% Beeswax 9% ozokerite 10% α-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine 0.24% Ascorbyl Palmitate 0.2% Soy lecithin 7% Glycerin 8% Talc 3% D & C RED 27 5% D & C RED 7 6% Black iron oxide 2% Polybutylene qsp 100% perfume qs

Example 2

Non-colored lipstick for fragile lips Castor oil 20% Jojoba oil qsp 100% Isopropyl lanolate 28% Microcrystalline wax 8% Carnauba wax 8% Trioleoyl phosphate 1% 2-oleoylamino-1,3-octadecanediol 0.5%

Example 3

Moisturizing cream for fragile lips Water qsp 100% α-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine 0.2% methylparaben 0.2% Sorbitan tristearate 1.4% Cetyl alcohol 5.5% Glyceryl stearate 4.8% Polyethylene glycol stearate (40OE) 3% Parlam oil 23% Potassium cetyl phosphate 1% Perfume + colorant qs

Example 4

Comfort balm Triglyceride in C ₂₄ 10% Dioctyldodecyl dimeriloleateate 24% octyldodecanol 15% Triglyceride of caprylic / caprylic acid 10% Lanolin oil 12% Propoxylated lanolin 6% Acetylated lanolin 6% Polyethylene wax 10% Octaconasylstéarate 5% Zinc oxide 0.5% α-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine 0.2% Ascorbyl Palmitate 0.2% Dye and perfume qs

Example 5

• hectorite modifiée par du chlorure de di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium 0,5 %
• lanoline liquide 27,2 %
• cire micro cristalline 10,5 %
• cire d'abeille polyglycérolée (3 moles) 4,2 %
• lanoline acétylée 6,7 %
• huile d'arara (esters d'acide oléique) 13,5 %
• cire de lanoline oxypropylénée (5 OP) 6,7 %
• érucate d'oléyle 13,5 %
• triglycérides d'acides oleique-linoleique-linolenique 1,7 %
• triglycérides d'acides palmitique-oleique-linoleique 14,5 %
• tétraisopalmitate d'ascorbyle 1,0 %

Repairing stick sensitive lips

• hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride 0.5%
• liquid lanolin 27.2%
• micro crystalline wax 10.5%
• polyglycerolated beeswax (3 moles) 4.2%
• acetylated lanolin 6.7%
• arara oil (oleic acid esters) 13.5%
• oxypropylenated lanolin wax (5 OP) 6.7%
• oleyl erucate 13.5%
• oleic-linoleic-linolenic acid triglycerides 1,7%
• palmitic-oleic-linoleic acid triglycerides 14.5%
• ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 1.0%

Example 6

• polybutène (Indopol H1500^® de Amoco) 43,9 %
• benzoate d'alkyle en C₁₂-C₁₅ (FinsolvTN^® de Finetex) 33,0 %
• copolymère PVP/hexadécène 22,0 %
• octyldodécyl PCA (céramidone^® de Solabia) 0,5 %
• α-hydroxypalmitoylsphingosine 0,1 %
• éther cétylique de vitamine C (NIKKOL) 0,5 %

Soothing gloss

• polybutene (Indopol H1500 ^® from Amoco) 43.9%
• alkyl benzoate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ (FinsolvTN ^® Finetex) 33.0%
• PVP / hexadecene copolymer 22.0%
• octyldodecyl PCA (Solabia ceramidone ^® ) 0.5%
• α-hydroxypalmitoylsphingosine 0.1%
• cetyl ether of vitamin C (NIKKOL) 0.5%

Example 7

• dispersion aqueuse de polyuréthanne (NEOREZ R-981) qsp 100,00 %
• pigment 1,00%
• agent plastifiant (glycérine) 1,25 %
• PCA de sodium 1,00 %
• acide glycorpyranosyl-L-ascorbique (hayashibara) 0,50 %

Liquid lipstick for fragile lips

• aqueous dispersion of polyurethane (NEOREZ R-981) qs 100.00%
• pigment 1.00%
• plasticizer (glycerin) 1.25%
• Sodium PCA 1.00%
• glycorpyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid (hayashibara) 0.50%

Example 8

• hectorite modifiée par du chlorure de di-stearyl di-methyl Ammonium 0,5%
• lanoline liquide 26,2 %
• cire micro cristalline 10,5 %
• cire d'abeille polyglycérolée (3 moles) 4,2 %
• lanoline acétylée 7,7 %
• huile d'arara (esters d'acide oléique) 13,5 %
• cire de lanoline oxypropylénée (5 op) 6,7 %
• érucate d'oléyle 13,5 %
• triglycérides d'acides palmitique-oleique-linoleique 15,2 %
• lauryl PCA 1,0%
• tétraisopalmitate d'ascorbyle 1,0 %

Soothing stick

• hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride 0.5%
• liquid lanolin 26.2%
• micro crystalline wax 10.5%
• polyglycerolated beeswax (3 moles) 4.2%
• Acetylated lanolin 7.7%
• arara oil (oleic acid esters) 13.5%
• oxypropylenated lanolin wax (5 op) 6.7%
• oleyl erucate 13.5%
• palmitic-oleic-linoleic acid triglycerides 15.2%
• lauryl PCA 1.0%
• ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 1.0%

Claims (38)

Cosmetic use of an active agent for increasing the ceramide content in the lips, chosen from a 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor, ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues, protective agent of fragile lips, in particular the vermilion area. Cosmetic use according to the preceding claim, of a 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor as a protective agent for fragile lips, in particular the vermilion area. Cosmetic use according to claim 2, wherein the 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor compound is a compound of the following formula (I):

R ₁ -CHOH-CH (NH-COR ₂₎ (CH ₂ OH) (I)

in which : R ₁ represents a C ₃ to C ₃₀ , in particular C ₇ to C ₂₅ , and preferably C ₁₁ to C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl radical, and - R ₂ represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical C ₃ to C ₃₀ , in particular C ₅ to C ₂₅ , and preferably C ₈ to C ₂₄ , linear, optionally hydroxylated and the hydroxyl group being in position alpha carbonyl, and may include one or more ethylenic unsaturations, including one or two ethylenic unsaturations, or one of its derivatives. Cosmetic use according to the preceding claim, in which R ₁ represents a C ₁₄ to C ₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl radical, especially C ₁₅ . Cosmetic use according to Claim 3 or 4, in which R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon radical with C ₁₁ to C ₁₉ , preferably C ₁₅ to C ₁₉ . Cosmetic use according to the preceding claim, in which the compound of formula (I) is chosen from N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine and V ceramides. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 2 to 6, wherein the 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine ceramide precursor compound is a V ceramide or a V ceramide derivative. Cosmetic use according to claim 6 or 7, wherein a ceramide V is a compound of formula (IV) or (V):

in which n varies from 1 to 28, in particular from 3 to 23, for example from 6 to 22, preferably from 9 to 17, or even from 13 to 17. Cosmetic use according to claim 1 of ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues as a protective agent for fragile lips. Cosmetic use according to the preceding claim, in which the ascorbic acid analogues are chosen from its salts, its esters, its sugars and the derivatives of formula (II):

in which : R ₆ represents a hydrogen atom, a hydrocarbon chain having 15 to 20 carbon atoms, a sugar residue, a carbonyl group, an alkyloxycarbonyl group or a carbamoyl group, or R ₆ O is a sulfate function or a function phosphate, R ₇ represents a hydrogen atom, a sugar residue or a -COR ₁₀ group where R ₁₀ is chosen from: (a) a linear or cyclic or branched, optionally hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon-based radical, (b) an optionally hydroxylated aryl radical, (c) an aralkyl radical of formula (III):

where R, R 'and R ", identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy, alkoxy, fluoroalkoxy or alkylcarbonyloxy radical, and R _8, R _9, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a COR ₁₀ group as defined above or, taken together form an isopropylidene radical, or a salt thereof. Cosmetic use according to any one of Claims 9 or 10, in which the ascorbic acid analogues are chosen from ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl-2-phosphate and glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate, ascorbyl tetra-iso-palmitate and cetyl vitamin C ether. Cosmetic use of ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues or a ceramide precursor compound based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine, as an agent capable of preventing and / or treating (i ) sensations of discomfort and / or tingling and / or tightness, (ii) the presence of scales and / or dry patches, and / or (iii) cracks and / or cracks and / or bleeding, especially in subjects with fragile lips. Cosmetic use of ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues or a ceramide precursor compound based on 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine, as an agent capable of preventing and / or treating (i ) sensations of discomfort and / or tingling and / or tightness and (ii) the presence of scales and / or dry patches, especially in subjects with fragile lips. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine ceramide precursor and ascorbic acid are combined. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor compound or ascorbic acid and / or at least one of its analogues is / are used in a composition for labial application. Use according to the preceding claim, wherein the composition is in the form of a paste, in particular of soft paste, solid, cream, foam, spray, powder or liquid. Use according to any one of claims 15 or 16 wherein the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W), oil-in-polyol, water-in-oil emulsion (W / O) , water-in-polyol, a multiple emulsion (W / O / E or polyol / H / E or H / E / H), an anhydrous gel, a solid or a soft paste, d a liquid oily phase, a suspension, a dispersion or a solution. Use according to any one of claims 15 to 17, wherein the composition is in the form of an anhydrous solid composition, and more particularly in the form of a stick. Use according to any one of claims 15 to 18, wherein the composition comprises the 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine ceramide precursor in a content of from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, for example from 0.001 to 5 % by weight, and preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Use according to any one of Claims 15 to 19, characterized in that the composition comprises ascorbic acid and / or at least one of its analogues in a total content of from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, for example from 0.001 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Use according to any one of claims 15 to 20, wherein the composition is in the form of a dermatological or lip care composition, in the form of a sun protection composition of the lips, in the form of a base of care for fragile lips, in the form of a lip balm or under the form of a colored lip makeup product, such as a lipstick or a lip gloss or gloss. Use according to any one of Claims 15 to 21, in which the composition is thickened with at least one thickening agent chosen from fatty phase gelling agents, waxes, pasty fatty substances, fillers and their mixtures. Use according to any one of claims 15 to 22, wherein the composition comprises at least one dyestuff selected from dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof. Use according to any one of claims 15 to 23, wherein the composition further comprises at least one additional active agent chosen from hydrating agents, desquamating agents, anti-pollution or anti-radical agents, soothing agents and agents. healing. Use according to the preceding claim wherein the moisturizing agent is chosen from among the natural moisturizing factors deriving from the degradation of filaggrin. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues in combination with a natural hydration factor derived from the degradation of filaggrin. Use according to any one of claims 24 to 26, wherein the natural hydration factor deriving from the degradation of filaggrin is selected from serine, tryptophan, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urocanic acid, as well as their salts or their derivatives. Use according to any one of claims 15 to 23, wherein the composition further comprises at least one additional active agent selected from the extracts of Centella Asiatica, madecassoside, vitamin B5, hydroxyethyl urea, zinc oxide and C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane. Use according to any one of claims 15 to 28, wherein the composition further comprises one or more additional active ingredients in a total content of from 0.001 to 30% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 20% by weight with respect to total weight of the composition. Use of a 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor or ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues for the preparation of a composition for the treatment and / or prevention of clinical signs associated with fragile lips, especially the vermilion area. Use according to the preceding claim, wherein the composition is as defined in any one of claims 15 to 29. Composition for labial application comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least two compounds of formula (I) as defined in claims 3 to 6. Composition according to the preceding claim comprising at least N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine and α-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine. A composition for lip application comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound of formula (I) as defined in claims 3 to 6, associated with at least ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues, such as defined in claims 10 and 11. A composition according to any one of claims 32 to 34, wherein the composition is as defined in any one of claims 15 to 29. A process for the cosmetic treatment of subjects with fragile lips, comprising applying to the lips of said subjects a composition comprising at least one 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramide precursor as defined in claims 3 to 8 or less ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues as defined in claims 10 and 11. A method of cosmetic treatment of a subject whose lips are affected by scales and / or dry plates, associated or not with a sensation of discomfort and / or tugging and / or tingling or are predisposed to manifest these disorders, comprising the application on the lips of said subject of at least ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues as defined in claims 10 or 11 or a precursor of 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramides as defined in claims 3 to 8. A method of cosmetic treatment of a subject whose lips are affected by cracks and / or cracks and / or bleeding, associated or not with dander and / or dry patches, and / or a feeling of discomfort and / or tightness and / or tingling or are predisposed to manifesting such disorders, comprising applying to the subject's lips at least one of the acid ascorbic acid or at least one of its analogues as defined in claims 10 or 11 or a precursor of 6-hydroxy-4-sphingenine-based ceramides as defined in claims 3 to 8.

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