US 1089036 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
R. E. BARTELS.
BOOT OR SHOE.
APPLIOATION FILED SEPT. 4, 191s.
11,089,036, Patented M3113, 1914.
i ance or wearing UNITED STATES PATENTOFFICE.'
REINHARD E; BARTELS, 0F NEWTON, MASSACHUSETTS.
BOOT OR SHOE.
Specicationof Letters Patent.
u Patented Mar. 3, 1914.
Application filed September 4, 1913. Serial No. 788,100.
To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, REINHARD Ef BAR- TELs, a citizen of the United States, and a' l@ne-of the factors of increased cost has been the increasing cost of the upper leather which must'be used since no effective substitute has beenv found -whichwill take the place` of leather in shoe making. The use or omission of a small amount of leather varies the cost of the' shoe, particularly in shoes of high grade.
rllhe object of the present invention is to effect a material saving in the cost of construction ofa. given boot` or shoe by decreasing the amount of leather used in its manufacture, without detracting from its appearqualities, ,and at the Same time to provide va better shoe by eliminating the stretching which permits a shoe to become mis-sli'apen inthe .course of a short time.
According to the usual process of manufacture, the upper and ,the lining, which is usually of relatively light material, are placed upon the last, and attached temporarily to the inner sole, after which the shoe is either welted and stitched or turned stitched or is McKay stitched to secure the outer so-le thereto. In the preliminary pulling-over operation, the fringe lor loose marginal port-ions of the upper are overlapped upon the inner sole, and tacks or fastenings are driven therethrough into the inner sole. rllhen the edge of the leather upper andthe .welt are sewed to the inner sole by-'stitches passing through the leather upper, or the sole is sewed on by a- McKay machine or a turn machine, the stitches passing through the marginal portion of the' leatherupper.
According to' my invention, I cut the u per so that the edge or margin thereof will not be piercedu by the stitching or welting operation, and so that it will terminate short of the line of the welt stitches'or the McKay stitches. lIn this way, I effect a material saving'of the leather. Further, between the lining andthe leather I place one or more layers of flexible, substantially non-extensible material, suchas heavy drill or canvas,
which are secured at their upper edges to the leather by the usual seams which are employed in forming the upper. This-layer or layers has a marginal portion which projects materially beyond the bottom "margin of the upper leather, so that it can receive the fasteners and the stitches which are used in soling or bottoming the shoe. And the-n,
the marginof the leather is secured by one or more lines of stitches to the non-extensible layer, so that it will be secured in place and hidden by 'the welt or by the sole according to the character of the shoe.' In this way, Ido not have to consider thestretch of the leather, and the uppers may therefore be cut from any portion of the skin. Consequently the entire skin may be used to the greatest advantage.
As a direct consequence of my invention, I am able to effect a material saving since I am able touse very thin leather of fine texture which would be otherwise practical-ly`impossible to employ because of its limpness and liability to stretch. On the accompanying drawing,-Figi 1re 1 represents a pump or slipper embodying the invention. Fi of before it and flic other parts are assembled on the last. Fig 3 represents a section on the line 3--3Y of Fig. 2.' Fig. 4 slows the .pump or slipper afterthe upper has been pulled over or lasted and secured to the insole, preparatory to the attachment of theouter sole by an McKay sewing machine. Fig. 5 represents a transverse sectionL 2 shows the upper therethrough the ball ofthe completed pump.4 Fig."6 represents a longitudinal sectionv through the toe of a 4shoe embodying the -invention. Fig. 7 represents a transverse sec-1.
tion through a welt shoe embodying the invention- By the use of the term appended' claims, I meanto include footwear of' all kinds,boots, shoes, pumps, slippers, etc.
shoe in the place by a line of stitches indicated at 12 *which pass through both the outer sole and the inner sole. The upper consists of an Kouter layer, 18 ofl leather which forms the vamp of the shoe. Within the vamp is the usual thin lining 14e which, at its upper edge, is secured to the ed e of the vamp in any of the ,usual ways. therleatherva-mp there is a layer of flexible 'non-elastic material, drill, canvas or the like, as indicated .at"l5. Only one layer may be utilized, or, if desired, I may employ two layers as shown in Figs. 3 and 5. There the upper. is to be employed in aYIcKayy shoe, the leather portion 13 is cut so that its marginwill extend a. short distance into the y f space betweerrthe inner sole and the outer sole, as shown in Fig. 5, and yet not far enough so as to be penetrated by the line of stitches 12. By reference to Fig. 2, it Will. i
bc seen that a relatively large marginal area of the layers 15 is exposed to View, this exposed,` portion indicating the amount of leather which'is saved by thus cutting the leather vamp.' The exterior -margin of the leather vamp is secured to the interior layer or layers l5 by` one or more lines of stitches 1 6. Hence, when the `upper is pulled over thelast andpthe intermediate layer 15 is drawn taut about the last and is secured in place, the leather vamp isxther'eby drawn over the edge of thev inner sole and is likewise secured in place. rlhe line of stitches 16 is so located that it is Concealed when .the shoe is finished /the edge of the upper being likewise concealed.
The upper edge of thereinforce is also secured to the upper, edgevof .the vamp by the line of stitches which secure the lining thereto, assh'own at 21 in Fig. 1.d
It Will be observed that the vamp is provided with a toe' cap -19 which is connected n to the front endfthereof by one or more lines of stitches 20 extending across the upperfromone `side edge to the other. Thse stitches penetrate the reinforce or intermediate layer so that the toe cap is secured thereto. The line of stitches 16 extends around the curved margin of the toe'cap so that the latter is attached to the reinforce around its entire margin or edge. The extremity ofthe toe cap, as shown'm Fig. 6,
' terminates short of the stitches which conneet the upper to the bottom of the sol/e. Frequently the toe cap is made of enameledleather, and the cracking of the cap, which etween the lining and absence is dueto the lasting operation, entails considerable expense or loss. 'IUhis isdue to the fact that Ythe leather is flexible and expansie ble, whereas the enamel is fnonexpansible, and consequently,l when the leather is stretched, cracks are formed where the leather is drawn over the inner sole. By
securing the edges of the toe cap tothe re inforce, \the leather `is "prevented n from'Y stretching, and@ thus eliminate the cracking and injuring of the enamel,L This is a valuable yfeature of the invention whiclu may be utilized independently of the otheiffeatures; that is to say, whether or not the ball andshank portions of the upper be provided with the reinforce, the toe cap may be provided with the reinforce and be stitched' thereto along its margins for the purpose of saving the toe cap from cracking.
ln- Fig. G, I have shown the invention as embodied in a welt shoe. In this case, the
line of stitches 16 is hidden by the welt 17,
the edge of the leather vamp terminating just short of the stitches 18 which secure the welt, the upper and the inner sole together.-
l inasmuch as Athereinforcing layer 15 of textile material is secured at its upper and V4lower'edges to the leather vamp, it will be of the shoe becoming distorted or mis-shapen after wear. It prevents the bulging of the upper laterally beyond the edges of the soley as frequently happens when the leather ist soft and spongy. By the use ofthe reinforced layer, therefore, it is possible to utilize substantially the entire skin in making the uppers, and there is no necessity for a careful spacing of thepatternsv on particular portions of the skin as is-nowthc case.
Having thus explained the nature of my said invention and described a way o-f mak-v` ing and using the same, although Without attempting ton set forth' all of the forms in which it may be made or all of t-he modes of f its use, what I claim is y f 1. A shoe having a vamp, anon-elastic reinforce substantially coextensive in area With the vamp but ,projecting beyond the bottom of the vamp, stitchesconnectingthe upper and lower margins of the. vamp to'the reinforce, and means yfor securing the projecting marginal portion of the reinforce to the bottom of the shoe.
'2, A shoe having the usual inner andv of the vamp and is Secured to the inner sole, and stitches connecting the margin of the yamp to the reinforce.
3. A leather upper for shoes comprising .a vamp, a lining, an intermediate reinforce projecting beyond the bottom edge of the vamp, and stitches securing the upper und bottom margins of the vamp to the reinforce, whereby the projecting marginal portion of the reinforce may be pulled over and secured to u sole, und by its connection with the i'anip secure the leather vamp in place with- -out. unduly stretching the leather vznnp.
of the stitches which secure the `reinforce to the sole.
A shoe having a leather vamp terminait-ing inv :1 toe cup, the bottom margin of the' vnmp and toe cap beingconcealed but terminating short. vor' the Seam connecting' the upper and the sole, a non-elastic reilliorce whose hottomf portion projects beyond the margin of the vamp and toe cap and is secured to the solo, and stitches connecting the upper and lower margins of the vamp and toe cap to the reinforce.
In testimony whereof I lmve' ullixel my signature, in presence oi' two witnesses.
v REINHARD E. BARTICLS. 'itnesses MARCUS 13. MM', P. lV. PEZZI-irri.