US 1115674 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
M. P. JACOB. BRAssnmE.
APPLICATION FILED FEB. 12, 1914 1,1 15,674. Patented Nov. 3, 1914.
M. P. JACOB. BRASSIERB.
-APPLIOATION FILED FEB. 12, 1914.
Patented NOV. 3, 1914.
2 SHEETS-SHEET 2 MARY P. JACOB; 0F MAMARONECK, NEW YORK.
Specification of Letters Patent. l
Application filed February 12, 1914. Serial No. 818,372.
To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, MARY P. JACOB, a citizen of the United States, residing at Mamaroneck, in the county of Westchester and State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Brassieres, of which.
the following is a specification.
This invention relates to improvements in brassieres.
More particularly it relates to garments of the general type known as corset covers,
worn for the purpose of covering the top of the corset and holding the wearer in proper form. These garments, in order to serve their purpose with low corsets, require to be snug fitting in order to shapethe figure;
properly above the waist, to confine the and conceal the corsettop. hitherto proposed for this purpose have required lacing or other fastening of parts across the back of the wearer or have been otherwise arranged so high as to interfere with the wearing of evening gowns out low in the back. The necessity of a snug fit has also made it necessary that the brassiere be made with special regard to the size and shape of the wearer in order proper fit.
It is among the objects of the present invention to provide a garment in which a number of features of novelty and utility are combined, among which are the provision of a garment which has no back and therefore does not interfere with any design ofevening gown that may be chosen; one whichis capable of universal fit to such an extent that for commercial handling it need be made in but few sizes, with reasonable certainty that the size and shape ofa single garment will be'suitable for a considerable variety of different customers; and to provide a garment which is characterized by.
extreme simplicity by freedom from bones so that it may be finished with laces or embroideries for wear beneath a sheer waist or diaphanous gown, and which when worn is both comfortable and cool and so etficient that it may be worn even by\ persons engaged in violent eziercise such as tennis; and which f has other advantages that are characteristic of the invention herein set forth, some of which may be summarized by saying that it does not confine the person anywhere except where it is needed.- These ob ects are attained by the very'simple construction of 1 Garments to obtain a garment hereinafter described, and especially by the features pointed out in the appended claim, the purpose ofwhich is to cover whatever features of atentable novelty exist in the invention disc o'sed.
In the accompanying drawings: Figure 1 represents an embodiment of the invention, and Fig. 2 shows themanner of wearing the same.
Referring to the drawings, the garment is seen to consist-of a front composed of two pieces of cloth, 10, 10, joined to etherby a seam extending vertically. in e middle. These two vpieces are out on a slight'bias, not according to the usual cutting on the bias, whichordinarily means at an angle of 45 to the selvage, but at a less angle. The best form so far as I have discovered is substantially that illustrated in the drawings, where each piece 10 has top and bottom edges that are parallel to the selvage. Each of these pieces 10 has a relatively shorttop edge 11 and arelatively long bottom edge 12, the bottom edge being in fact about twice Patented Nov. 3, 1914;
mately equal in length; I he'se two pieces are ut together and joined by the seam 13 on t eir adjacent oblique sides. Their other oblique sides, remote from each'other, are each finished by hemmingby any ordinary or suitable method. 'As these edges'are on a bias, this forms a somewhat yielding binding 14. At the lowerend of the seam13 a tab 13' is provided. At the bottom of each binding 14 a tie 15, which, as illustrated, v
consists of a tape or string, is attached. A
suitable'ta'pe 16, which is (preferably e1astic,
is also attached to the bin mg of each piece 10, extending from the u per outer corner .to the lower outer corner 0 the piece. V When the garment is worn these tapes pass upward over the shoulders, down behind, under the arms of the wearer, one on each side. This substantially completes the description of the article, except that. it should be said that the width between the places where the two tapes 16 are'attached at the top may vary according to the width of the -shoulders'of the wearer, so that these ta es in, passing over the shoulder will con orm approximately to the lines or shoulder straps of an evening gowns The length of the bottom edges of the pieces 10 is such that when the 50 draft on the single pair of. strings 15- acts backward and downward upon the upper.
garment is=worn they will extend around the side under the arms, the particular location not being important except that-they stop short of going around the back.
When the garment is worn, it is put in place on the shoulders and, the tab at the bottom being tied or pinned down to other garments, the tapes 15 are drawn together around the waist of the wearer at the back.
Preferably they are crossed at the back and brought around tothe front where they are tied together. When these strings are drawn tight, the outer lower corners of the trapezoid shaped pieces 10 are drawn backward and downward, the line of draft passing diagonally through each trapezoid to its 11 per inner corner. Owing to the peculiar s ape of these pieces as above described, this line of draft is substantially on a true or v bias across the warp of the cloth while, simultaneously, draft applied by the strings 15 is transmitted along the side edge 14 to the upper corner, which is along a bias of less degree;' and along the'bottom edge of the iece 10 to the central fastening 13" arrow 0. The lower edge 12 cannot be elongated because it extends lengthwise of the .cloth, and therefore it draws tight around the waist. The center of the piece 10, however, can stretch in direction of the arrow d as much as the figure of the wearer requires, because the main draft of the string extends diagonally across the piece, which is on the bias, and because the draft along the outeredge 14 is also somewhat on the bias, though less so, so that that line also can stretch somewhat, thus enabling the garment to be drawn so tight as to fit snugly, and yet to accommodate itself to movements of the wearer without drawing or cutting too tightly into the flesh. The
part of the piece; and upward on the lower part. This will be understood by consideration of Fig. 2, noticing that the place where the tie 15is joined tothe otherpart of the garment, (behind the backcand shown in dotted lines, and being the same point to whichthe arrows c, a, b, point),-is below the line 14 and is above the line 12, so thatwhen' one pulls upon the string 15 it tends to draw thetupper part of garment toward'the'back and downward rather than upward; and it likewise tends to draw the lowerart of thegarment around toward the bac and upand arm.
ing a front form ward rather than downward because the ,as this draft of the string is the sole means behind the back for holding the garment: in place it is not particularly important how far around the side of the wearer the lower outer corners of the garment reach.
Conse uently the same garment ma; be worn y persons differing considerab y in size. This makes the arment well adapted for commercial handling, because an adequate stock may consist of only a few sizes. A double benefit results: First, if carried by -a shop the garment ordinarily will not recplire the careful individual fitting by a s flled corsetiere which has hitherto been necessary for obtaining the best results; and
second, the garments can be carried in stock "by dressmakers whose business is so small that they would not be justified incarrying a stock of the numerous sizes that ordinarily have to be'lgept on hand by any one who has garments for sale to the public in general.
It will be understood-that the dimensions of the different lines in the garment can be varied both to make the garment larger or smaller or to change its shape sli tly according to need of an individualwearer 1 and that any such. adjustment can be easily made.
A further feature-which contributes-to the ease and comfortof the garment when worm-especially when worn at tennis or 1 5 other violent exercise, is due to the fact that the piece 10 is stretchable in the direction of the arrow e,' which is at right angles to arrow (1 and is e ually on the bias. This, when coupled wit the shoulder stra s 16 'allows free play whether the latter 0 tape or elastic; it is to be-noted'that I if the latter beelastlc it makes, in combina- ,tion with the yieldin' edge '14 a complete ban flexibly yielding around the shoulder .115
- The garment as awhole is easy, comfortable and cool because while held down rigidly at the bottom tab, 13', and along the bottom edge it is held somewhat flexibly at its top and side edges, and does not cover the person of the wearer where it is not needed; This makes the, garment particularly suitable for use in tropical subtropical count'riesv" I claim as my invent1on:- V
' Abrassiere corelfrisin'g" a garment havof two portions joined vertically in the middle of the front on a line hav ng means at its lower end forholdaround the waist, and shoulder straps; t e
ing the garment doivn said joined portions said. tie being on the bias at right angles 10 extemlmg sidewise to the front of the shoulthereto. der, and to under arms, combined wlth tles, Signed b me at Mamaroneck, N. Y. this attached under the arms and adapted to 0 28th day 0 January, 1914. Y a line from the bottom ofsaid middle line to I A JACOB the shoulder strap being on the bias throu h Witnesses:
- the cloth and the line from the to of said BRADFORD Rflonns,
middle line to the place of attac ent of R. G. BREWER.