US 1139318 A
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Description (OCR text may contain errors)
L. K, WHEELOCK.
APPLICATION FILED MAR. 10. m4.
Patented May 11,1915.
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APPLICATION FILED MAR. 10. 1914.
Patented May 11,1915.
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LYDIA KENDALL WHEELOCK, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.
T a?! 1071 om it may concern Be it known that I, LYDIA KENDALL WHEE- LOCK, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of the city of New York, borough of Manhattan, in the county and State of New York, have invented a new and Improved Hat-Pattern, of which the following,
is a full, clear, and exact description.
This invention relates to hat patterns for bat structures for ladies wear and more particularly to hats made in various deslgns from such patterns, and the invention further comprehends an improved pattern and method of designing the same as well as gen erally an improved system of constructing hats from such patterns.
Another object of the invention is to provide hat patterns which comprise a few pattern sections of novel shape and construction designed to greatly facilitate the cutting of the material for the making of the hat and for the trimming thereof, in such a manner as to permit a person supplied with the required pattern and materials to make a hat even though inexperienced in this particular art.
A still further object of the inventionis to provide hat patterns by following which hats can be constructed in such a manner that the foundation of the hat is cut from the pattern sections and so secured together as to be shaped in various ways to meet the prevailing styles and to be covered or decorated in numerous ways to accord with such styles and to adapt the hat for the different seasons.
With the above and other objects in View, the invention resides more particularly in the peculiar combination and arrangement of parts to be hereinafter more fully described, illustrated and claimed, it being also an object to provide an article which is simple in construction, durable and eflicient.
Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification, in which similar characters .of reference indicate corresponding parts in all the views, and in which- Figure 1 is a plan view of a pattern section adapted to form the outer brim of the hat; Fig. 2 is a similar view of a pattern section from which the inner brim is cut; Fig. 3 is a similar view of a pattern section from which the side of the crown is cut; Fig. 4'is a plan view of the bandeau section; Fig. 5
Specification of Letters Patent.
Patented Ma 11., 1915.
Application filed March 10, 1914. Serial No. 823,704.
brim with the inner brim or head size fixed thereto and indicated in dotted lines; Fig. 10 is a perspective view showing the parts assembled as in Figs. 6 and 9, in juxtaposition to indicate the manner of connecting the same, the reinforcing and shaping wires also being secured in position; Fig. 11 is a perspective view of a complete hat form or foundation; Fig. 12 is an enlarged vertical sectional view through a hat constructed in accordance with the invention and illustrating one method of covering the foundation; and Fig. 13 is a perspective view of the completed hat illustrating one of many styles to be produced.
In carrying out the present invention a frame or master pattern is first made from wire or otherwise, the wires being connected at such points so as to produce the intended or prevailing style of hat, and when shaped in the proper manner this wire. frame is covered with buckram or other similar coarse and relatively stiff fabric material which is capable of being shaped when wet and which when dry will retain such shape. This material is soaked in water and fitted to the frame so as to conform to the shape thereof, and after being so fitted is dried and removed. From this take-off covering, pattern sections are cut in accordance with the continuance of the improved system devised by me in such a manner as to render the construction of a hat as simple as possible. This pattern embodies several sections of suitable material such as tissue paper, there being an outer brim section 10 which consists of arelatively circular strip of uniform width or of irregular width de pending upon the particular style of the hat. This pattern section is marked to indicate the front thereof and the end portion 11 is designed to overlap the end portion 12 so as to meet a line 13 indicating the back portion thereof. A line 14 is preferably provided to indicate the front of the pattern section and the interior edge of the latter is provided with a series of notches 15 preferably equi-distantly spaced apart and disposed substantially radially with respect to a given or common center so as to prov de inwardly extending portions or tongues tapering inwardly to allow for bending, shaping or curving of the brim, as well as to permit the inner edge of the outer brim to exactly fit or conform to the size and shape of the inner brim or head size pattern section 16. This latter section is shown in Fig. 2 of the drawings and consists of a narrow strip the curvature of which conforms to that of a semicircle, the front thereof being indicated by a line 17 and the end portion 18 being adapted to overlie the end portion 19 to meet a line 20, the front portions of the outer and inner brims being adapted to be placed in alinement so that the parts will properly fit together. The pattern further comprises a side crown section 21 which is slightly wider than the inner brim section and which has a less distinct curvature, but this section is further provided with a front line 22 and its end portion 23 is adapted to overlie the end portion 2% to meeta transverse line 25. Adapted for attachment to the side crown section 21 is a crown proper 26, the same consisting of a substantially circular section provided with darts or radial cuts :27 located at suitable spaced intervals and extending well into the pattern section toward the center thereof. The intermediate portions thus provided between the darts are marked adjacent to common edges by curved lines 28 indicating the extent to which the adjacent or opposite edges are overlapped or folded in order to shape the crown, while small radial notches 29 which are also of uniform depth the same as the notches 15, are provided in the surrounding edge of the pattern section 26 with an equal number between each pair of darts or radial cuts so as to allow the side crown section 21 to snugly receive and conform thereto when the two are fitted together in the manner indicated in Fig. 6 of the drawings after the foundation material has been cut from the respective pattern sections. It is of course understood that the foundation material which is cut from the buckram or like material is cut to conform to the pattern sections, and in constructing the hat forming the foundation the outer brim is overlapped at its ends, the section of buckram cut from the outer brim section being indicated by the numeral 30 and being shown with its ends secured together by sewing the same as at 31. The ends of the inner brim or head size foundation section 32 are sewed together as indicated at 33 and with the inwardly taper ing portions or tongues between the notches 15 bent at an angle to the outer brim section as shown in Fig. 9, the inner brim or head size is secured thereto by sewing along a line connecting the inner ends of the tongues. Flexible wires 34: are sewed to the outer edge of the outer brim and the outer and inner edges of the inner brim, preferably by means of buttonhole stitching as indicated at 35, said wires being of such flexible nature as to permit the shaping of the brim, as for instance in the manner shown in Figs. 11, 12 and 1-3 of the drawings, so that the same will stay in the shape in which it is bent.
The crown section of the foundation is indicated by the numeral 36 and the material forming the same, which is cut from the pattern section indicated in Fig. 5 of the drawings, has the edge portions of the sections between the darts or radial cuts 27 folded over along the curved lines '28 and stitched firmly as 3110mm 3?, thus shaping the crown convexly. The side crown section of the foundation is indicated by the numeral 38 and has its ends overlapped and stitched as shown at 39 so as to form, as in the case of the inner brim section, a band the outline of which is substantially that of a frust-o-cone or which is of larger diameter at the bottom than at the top whereby, when fitted to the crown section 36 so as to fit over the notched portion of the latter, the same will conform to each other when stitched together as indicated at to, the notches allowing for the proper shaping of the crown in addition to the darts and causing the crown proper or top of the crown and the side crown to conform to each other. A shaping and reinforcing wire :21 is then secured to the bottom edge of the side crown section and to the inner face thereof, there being preferably a covering 52 of soft crinoline or other suitable material over the wire and free edge of the side crown section for the purpose of doubly securing the wire in position, covering the rough edge of the ma terial and also forming a binding to assist in the secure attachment or sewing of the crown of the hat to the brim, as shown in Figs. 10 and 11 of the drawings. lVhcn the parts are thus secured together the inner brim or head size will extend inwardly or diverge from the crown of the hat as is clearly shown in Fig. 12 of the drawings, the top edge of the inner brim or head size being designed to fit the head of the wearer and the remaining'parts being cut on any desired scale so that the patterns may be ordered in sizes to suit various persons. All of the reinforced wires will overlap each other at the back as shown at 43, thus permitting them to be made from a continuous length of wire without a special uniting means. It will be further observed that in the pattern sections illustrated in Figs. 1 and 5 of the drawings lines parallel to the free edges or tapered portions or tongues between the notches will serve the purpose of causing the connected sections of the foundation of the hat to be properly secured together, and in lieu of the lines and indications on the pattern sections, any desired corresponding markings may be placed upon the pattern sections to determine the exact manner in which they are to be fitted together so as to form the complete hat foundation or form in the proper shape or design which it is desired to obtain. After securing the parts together as specified and shaping the same through the instrumentality of the reinforcing wires, the top of the crown is provided with an. interior lining section 44 and a lining section 45' is secured to the interior of the inner brim or head size band intermediate its width or about midway between its top and bottom edges, the top edge of the lining which is preferably cut lengthwise of the goods, being provided with a hem 46 producing a casing through which a draw string or ribbon 47 is passed for the purpose of restricting the top opening of the lining and also the latter to cause the hat to properly fitthe head of the wearer, taking into consideration different styles of hair dress. In addition to the lining thus provided, if the hat does not properly fit the head of the wearer, or more especially if it is too large in the head size, the pattern section 48 illustrated in Fig. 4 is made use of, the same consisting of a straight strip of narrow width having a line marking 49 near one end to indicate the'extent to which the ends are overlapped. The bandeau proper is indicated by the numeral 50 and is preferably of velvet cut on the bias, the same being folded at each edge with one edge 51 attached to the head size simultaneously with the attachment of the lining section 45, while the free edge or fold 52 produces a casing. designed to receive a draw string or ribbon 53 for restricting the size of the bandeau, the ends of the material cut from the pattern section shown in Fig. 4 forming'the bandeau being secured together before or after the bandeau is secured in the hat, as shall be found most convenient.
The manner of decorating the hat may vary in many ways, but in the present instance the same is shown covered with braid, as indicated at 54, the crown and brim being separately covered from a continuous strip, preferably by sewing on the braid beginning at the back of the outer edge of the brim and continuing to wind the same on the brim until the same is totally covered before cutting, while the braid is sewed on the crown beginning at the bottom edge and ending at the top. Other material may be used for the covering of the hat, depending upon the prevailing styles and the particular season of the year, as well as any other preferred ornamentation.
Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters atent is 1. A hat pattern, comprising an outer brim section, an inner brim section, a domeshaped crown formed of a disk and a side crown formed of a strip, said parts being cut and marked to indicate the manner of assemblage of the foundation material of a hat to be constructed, said assemblage in accordance with said marks, enabling-the production of a duplicate of the original hat.
2. A hat pattern, comprising an outer brim section, an inner brim section, a crown proper anda side crown, said outer brim embodying a substantially circular strip with free end portions adapted to overlap each other and with interior notches producing tongues, the inner brim and side crown embodying curved strips also adapted to overlap at their end portions, and the crown proper embodying a substantially circular fiat section having spaced radial darts providing intermediate portions adapted to overlap each other at certain edges to produce a convex shape and also having edge notches, said notches first and last mentioned permitting formation between the crown proper and the side crown, and the inner and outer brims respectively when secured together, all of said parts being marked to indicate their inter-relation in the reproduction of a duplicate of the original.
3. A hat pattern, comprising a series of strips and a disk having slits, said strips and disk being adapted to be fitted together to produce a hat of the required design.
4. A hat pattern comprising an outer brim section normally in the shape of an arcuated strip, an inner brim section also normally in the shape of an arcuated strip, a crown normally in the shape of a circular blank and a side crown normally in the shape of an arcuated strip, said parts being adapted to be assembled to form a hat shape.
5. A hat pattern, including in part, a crown having radial slits whereby the portions intermediate said slits are adapted to be overlapped to shape the crown of a hat the crown proper embodying a flat section having spaced radial darts providing intermediate portions adapted to be shaped to produce the desired crown, said crown and side crown being designed to be secured together and then attached to the inner and outer brims.
8. A hat pattern comprising a series of arcuated strips and a circular disk or blank adapted to be fitted together to produce a. hat of the required shape.
9. A hat pattern including in part a circular disk or blank having radial slits extending from the margin thereof, the portions of said blank at the slits being adapted to overlap vwhen said blank is shaped into a. crown.
10. A hat pattern including in part a circular disk or blank adapted to have overlapping portions extending from the margin 20 LYDIA KENDALL WHEELOCK. Witnesses:
JOHN'E. BURCH, PHILIP D. ROLLHAUS.