US 1965995 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
July 10, 1934.
OVEGOAT, RAINCOAT, AND LIKE GARMENT F. R. TRIPP 1,965,995
Filed Dec. 7, 1932 4 sheets-sheet 1 July 10, 1934. F R TR|PP 1,965,995
OVERCOAT, RAINCOAT, AND LIKE GARMENT Filed Deo. I7, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Ju'ly 1Q, 1934. ER WPP 1,965,995
OVERCOAT, RAINCOAT, AND LIKE GARMENT Filed Deo. 7, 19,32 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 \NVENTOR July 10, 1.934.v
F. R. TRIPP 1,9
OVERCOAT, RAINCOAT, AND LIKE GARMENT Filed D'ec. 7, 1952 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 s'ags to form unsightly folds under the arm when a 55 the coat shown in Figui;
Patented July 10, 1934 ITED fsTrEs PArENTfLoI-'Flc-E ovEacoA'r, mmcoA'r, Aim 1.11m
' GARMENT Francis Randolph Tripp, Bristol, England 'Applicaties necmbef-v, 1932, serial No. '646,061 In Great Britain December 16, 1931 My invention relates to overcoats, raincoats,
and other garments of the raglan type,and to the' 10 tion even if worn with a belt round the waist,
" 'while any tendency to produce drag or'interfere 4 with the set of the garment by reason ofsuch movement is .reduced to a minimum or entirely avoided. In garments of the ready been proposed-to cut thev sleeve with a long -tapering piece from near the elbow portion reaching well down under the armpit, so that' the tapering piece is very full under, the armpits. .The
sleeve has'a flared out appearance when the arm to-'form 'folds'when the arm is lowered. This construction gives a certain added freedom, but.
at the expense of the appearance of the garment by reason of the fact that the added material the arm is lowered.
The' present invention accordingly consists in type first above referred to, the upper portion of provided with al grown-on. portion 'or portions whereby the sleeve is ared outward when the .arm is inthe raised position-the grown-on material automatically forming one or more folds when the arm is -in the lowered position, and is I'characterized in that' these folds. pass closely be-. neath the' armpit of the wearer, being at their.
maximum directly beneath the armpit, and gradually diminishing in an upward direction'on both the front and back of the arm, whereby the garment presents the general appearance -of a wellcut raglan coat or the like, very high degree of freedom of movement 'to the '45 wearer.
Other fea ures of the invention will be apparent ,from thefollowing descriptionz- In order that my understood and readily carried into practice, two forms thereof will ow be describedwith referenceto theaccompanying drawings where1n:'
' Fig. lis a view of one form of the invention applied toa belted overcoatz Fig. 2 is a side viewof the upp'er s claims. cl. '2 933.
invention is to prokind referred to it has al` is in the raised position; the tapering piece sags.
anovercoat, raincoat, o r other garment, of the 30 the part or parts constituting vthe sleeve being whilst allowing a to edge invention may be .clearly portion of `Fig. 3 shows the three patterns for a threepiece sleeve made according toV Figs.- 1 and 2, the hatched portion indicating the grown-on portions;
Fig. 4 is a side view of the upper portion of' a 60 lmodifled'form of sleeve andattachmentutilizing two pieces forthe sleeve;I
Fig. 5 shows; patterns of the two-pieced sleeve Vshown in' Figure 4, the hatched portion indicating the grown-on` portions;
Fig."6 is a view`showing the pattern of a three-i' piece sleeve made according to the present invention in its relation to a squarel and superpose'd over the raglan sleeve o f the usual type; I
Fig. 7 is a view similar to Figure 6 showing more 70 particularlythe relative' proportions of the va- .rious parts in a three-piece` sleeve;
Fig. 8 is a view. similar to Figure 7 showing the relative proportions of the various parts in a twopiece sleeve; A
Fig. 9 lis a view showing the upper portion of the back and forev part of the body of the coatto which the sleeves are secured. f
- Referring now to Figures l to 3 of the draw- I form my improved coat -with a main bodyportion 1 and sleeves 2, the top part of each of which is formed with grown-on portions. In this particular formthe sleeve 2 comprises three '.pieces', an underside sleeve piece 6 and two' pieces 85'A 'Tand 8 (see Figure 3) forming the top side .sleeve piece, the grownon portion 3 being con-.
4stituted bythe hatched .upper part of the un- Vderside sleeve piece 6, andthe pieces '7 and 8 with grown-on portions 9' and 10' respectively.l 90 In piece 7 it should be noted that thel length of theed'ge a b inthe new form of garment is equal-to the length of the line of the edge a -c in theold. form of garment. Similarly in the piece marked 8 the length ofthe new edge d e 95l isequal in length to the line of the old edge d f.
In assembling the three pieces shown in Figure 3, the edge 1 2 of piece 'l is sewn to the edge 13 of piece 6 andthe edge piece 14 of piece 7 15 of piece 8, the edge 16 of-piece 8 be- 100 ing sewn to the edge 1'7 of piece 6, the outer seam thus passing over the shoulderof the coat as will be readily lar form of attachment a' square-shouldered sleeve seam and is more particularly suitable for use with belted coats.v y
When th'e sleeve is in the raised position, the particular shape of the pieces forming the'sleeve gives4 the desired areto the upper end portion no seen' in Figure 2.v This particuforms what is'termed dueto the central of the sleeve thus giving the desired freedom of arm movement to the wearer while when the sleeve is in a lowered position the grown-on pieces form folds or yields passing closely beneath the armpit of the wearer without sagging, these folds being at their maximum immediately beneath the arm and passing upward in gradually diminishing manner on the front and rear of the sleevewhereby the garment presents the general appearance of a well-cut raglan coat.
In the modication shown in Figures 4 and 5, the sleeve 2 is formed of two pieces only, the underside sleeve-piece 6 andthe top-side piece 20; the piece 6 being shaped with a grown-on portion 3 shown hatched in Figure 5, and the outer piece 20 being shaped with grown-on portions 21 and 22. 'In this particular form the edge k Z in the piece 20 is equal to the length of the line lc m, yand the new edge n o is equal in length to the line n p.
The two edges 23 and 24 are sewn together to form the forearm seam of the sleeve and the two edges 25 and 26 are sewn together to form the hindarm seam of the sleeve, the upper edges 27 and 28 of the piece 20 extending over the shoulder of the coat to form an overcoat or raincoat of the raglan type. A side View of a coat formed in this way is shown in Figure 4.
It will be seen therefore, thatv when the sleeve is in the raised position, the upper part of the sleeve is flared outward to the line where it joins the body portion of the coat, while when the sleeve is lowered the grown-on material forms folds or yields which pass closely beneath the armpit of the wearer and are at theirA maximum immediately thereunder and extend upward on each side of the -arm of the wearer in gradually diminishing fashion thus giving the general appearance of a well-cut raglan coat.
Figure 6 is intended more particularly to in- -dicate the method of laying out a three-piece sleeve with reference to a square, a term wellknown in the trade.
The term scale, also referred to in the specification is defined as a factor used in cutting a garment and, in the case of an overcoat or raincoat, is obtained by taking the chest measurement in inches over the waistcoat, adding two inches, and dividing the sum so obtained by two. Thus, in a 42 inch chest over the waistcoat, the number 42 is taken, 2 added and the sum divided by two, giving 22. This factor of 22 is the scale for a 42 inch chest measured over the waistcoat, and is the scale used in the specic embodiments of the invention hereinafter described.
v In the drawings the two pieces forming the top side sleeve piece of a raglan sleeve of thel known type are shown by dot and dash lines and marked 30 and 31 respectively, while the two pieces forming the top side portion of a raglan sleeve made according to the present invention are shown in full lines and marked 32 and 33 respectively. The hindarm seam of the underside sleeve piece is shown dotted and marked 34.
The two pieces 30 and 31 forming the top side of the old type of raglan sleeve are laid down within the square, one side of the square being constituted by the line passing through the points A and B. The line A. B. is then produced to C, the length B. C. being from about one to oneand-a-half inches to give the hindarrn drop. The width A. D. of the square is equal to onehalf the scale plus about one-sixth or less than one-sixth scale. The square A. C. D. E. having a. width A. D. equal to half scale (11 inches) plus 4 21A, inches is thus completed and parts 31 and 32 in a raglan sleeve of the old type will be drawn within the square, it being understood that the edge 36 is sewn to the edge- 37 to complete the sleeve, the edges D38 and A.39 being sewn to the body of the coat.
It will now be seen that the grown-on portions forming the sleeve which is the subject of the present invention are mainly external to the square, and as the length of the edge B'39 of the new. pattern sleeve is equal to the length A39 in the old pattern sleeve, the point B' is raised above the point A partly by reason of the greater concavity of the edge vB'39, and partly by reason of the draught being laid down external to the square. Similarly, as the edge D238 is equal in length to the edge D'38 in the old pattern sleeve, the point D2 is raisedy partly as a result of the increased concavity of the edge D238, and
partly by reason of the draught being laid down external to the square.
The underside sleeve piece 6 is formed with a grown-on portion H. F. J. A' with the portion J completing this `part of the sleeve, the double dot and dash line indicating the old form. The edge 36 is sewn to the edge 37, the edge 33 is sewn to the edge 40, and the edg'e 32 to the edge 34, the
point Bbeing thus attached to the point A' and the point D2 to the point F to complete the sleeve for sewing to the coat.
It will be noted that when the sleeve is completed the edges 32 and 33 are turned towards the underarm, the sideof the arm being thus constituted by a crease and not by a seam, and that the top part of the underside sleeve piece is turned downward to form a crease or fold.
In the foregoing disclosure I have shown how my improved raglan coat differs broadly from raglan coats of the known type, and I will now describe two specific embodiments of the invention with reference to the drawings showing the actual key pattern of a two-piece and three-piece sleeve respectively, and also of the associated body portion of the coat.
All three drawings, (Figs. '7, 8 and 9) show the relative size and shape of the pattern for a 42 size coat corresponding to a scale of 22.
The parts corresponding to those shown in Figure 6 are indicated where possible by like reference numerals in Figure 7.
In Figure 72 Length A to D=%4 scalelplus 2 1@ inches',
Length D' to D3=4% inches,
Length D3 to D2=1/6 scale-5/8 inches,
Length A to B=1/6 scale-S/a inches,
Length 39 to 50:1/3 scale plus 1 inch,`
Length 39 to 51=1% inches,
Length 38 to 50=1% inches,
Length 52 to 53=T1 scale plus 1A inches,
Length 54 to 55:35 scale plus inch,
Length A' to B=According to length of arm,
Length B to C=11/8 inches,
Length 56 to 57:1/2 inch bare,
Length 58 to 59=1% inches,
Length 60=Centre line of square,
Length A to 61:1/3 scale plus 1 inch,
Length A' to 62:1/6 scale plus 1/2 inch,
Length 62 to 63=5% inches bare,
Length 64 to 65=1 scale less 1A,
Length 66 to 67:12 inch,
Length 70 to 71:54; inch,
Length 70 is centre of arc '72 joining 39 to 50,
Length 71 to 73=% inches,
Length 73 to 74:1 inch.
-In Figure 8:
Length 81 to 82:1/2 scale, Length 82 to 83:4% inches, Length 83 to 84:1A; scale-$41 inch, Length 81 to 85:1/6 scale-1A inch,
Length 86 to 87:1% inches, Length 88 to 89:11; scale, Length 90 to 91:11, scale-1A; inch, Length 81 to 92=According to arm of wearer, Length 92 to 93:11/8 inches, Length 94 to 95:11/2 inches, Length 96 to 97:1% inches, Length 81 to 98:1/3 scale plus 1 inch, Length 81 to 99:1/8 scale, plus 1/2 inch, Length 99 to 100:51@ inches. In Figure 9: Length 110 to 111:D2 53. 38 plus 3A, inch: 84.89.87- 1A; inch Length 112 to 113:B 39 plus 11A inches:
85.91.86 plus 1%" 1 inch variation of chest measurement arms of the wearer absolutely free and unre- Length 120 to 121:% inch, Length 111 to 122:% inch, Length.122 to 123:1/5 scaleplus' 1/2 inchl bare Length 123 to l24:.% inch, Length 116 to 125:1/2 scale-1A; inch.
124 is vertically above 125.
I By constructing my improved garment in this way, I provide an arrangement which allows the strained movement in every possible direction, while an elegant and graceful eiect is produced when the garment is in use without any tendency to interfere with the set of the garment.
I wish it to be understood that while my invention has been shown in its application to an overcoat or raincoat, its application is not to be limited thereto, as it may be employed with equal effect and like advantage to golf jackets, dressinggowns, mechanics overalls, boiler suits, and other garments for either men or women.
What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:-
1. An overeoat, raincoat, or other garment of the raglan typ',"wherein`the shoulder endof the part or parts constituting the sleeve is provided with a grown-on portion or portions, whereby the sleeve is flared outward when in the raised position, the grown-on material automatically forming one or more folds when in the lowered position, characterized in that the two points forming the extreme lateral ends of the grown-on portions of the top side sleeve are external to the square.
2. An overcoat, raincoat, or other garment according to claim 1, characterized in that the two points forming the extreme lateral endsof the grown-on portions of the topside sleeve are raised, and with the scye or armhole are so shaped that when the parts are united, the said folds pass closely beneath the armpit of the wearer, being at their maximum directly beneath the armpit and gradually diminishing in an upward direction on both front and back of the arm.
3. An overcoat, raincoat, or other garment of the raglan type, wherein the shoulder end of the parts constituting each sleeve is provided with a grown-on portionor portions, the extreme lateral ends of which are external to the square and raised, which results in an increased concavity of the edges constituting the shoulder seams, and with the scye or armhole are so shaped that when the parts are united, the sleeve is ared outward when in the raised position, the grown-on material automatically forming one or more folds when in the lowered position, the said folds passing closely beneath the armpit of the wearer, being Aat their maximum immediately beneath the armpit,` and gradually diminishing'in an upward direction at both front and back of the arm.
4. An overcoat, raincoat, or other garment of the raglan type', wherein the shoulder end of-the parts constituting each sleeve is provided with a grown-on portion or portions, the extreme lateral ends of which are external to the square and raised, which results in an increased concavity of the edges constituting the shoulder seams, and wherein the front of the end of the sleeve is of greater curvature than the curvature of the armhole.
5. An overcoat, raincoat, or other garment of the raglan type, wherein the shoulder, end of the parts constituting each sleeve is provided with a grown-on portion or portions, the extreme lateral ends of which arev external to the square and raised, which results in an increased concavity of the edges constituting the shoulder seams, and wherein the concavityof the curved edge forming the back of the top-side armhole seam, is. at least one twenty-fourth scale greater than the convexity ofwthe curved` edge ofthe back part of the .1
coat to whchthe sleeve sews in.
FRANCIS RANDOLPH TRIPP.