US 2022760 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
Dec. 3, 1935. K. ENGE| l 2,022,760
SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Dec. 30, 1952 v2 Sheets-Sheet l Flgl.
Dec. 3, y192.5.
SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Deo. 30, 1932 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 lliajzenteol Dec.-3, `19,35,V f l f 4 i I l,
UNITEDYLSTATS pero` band 55 corresponding marginal portions to thin edges at and sole piece; 55
Fig.7isaviewsimilartorig.5,showlng an upper made up without awelt; and
Fig. 8 is a fragmentary view in cross section of a shoe made without a welt.
In carrying out my invention, a band I8 of upper leather or the like is first cut or died out in-size and shape to form the forepa'rt of the particular shoe in hand. The band il is of` sufficient length to make up the walls of the entire forepart of the shoe, extending rearwardly substantially to the heel-breast line. The band Il is of suiiicient width to form the upright side walls ofthe forepart, thatistosay, itisofsuch width that its upper edge I2 in the iinished shoe is inturned somewhat over the upper face of the last and its lower edge il is inturned somewhat beneath the bottom of the last. A band thus shaped is represented in Fig. 4 of the drawings.
In carrying out the invention in the manufacture of a welt shoe, a welt strip 22 is brought into face-to-face engagement with the lower margin of the upper band il. the edge faces of the two pieces are brought into registration, and are butted' against the edge face of a soie piece 2l somewhat smaller than the last bottom. The welt strip 22 and the upper band Il may then be united to the margin of the sole piece 2l by a zigzag seam 24 or otherwise secured in butting relation. 'Ihe sole piece 20 corresponds in thickness substantially to the combined thicknes of the band I l and welt 22 or, as suggested in Pig. 5, the margin of the welt or the margin of the sole piece or both may be skived or beveled so that the thickness of the welt andy band will equal that of the sole piece. I prefer to employ a Zigzag stitch, such as that herein shown, because it may be sewn with a straight needle machine at high speed and while the parts are in condition to be vflattened out by the presser foot at the sewing point. Such an operation may be performed in the stitching room 'and does not require the exercise of any particular sh skill. In Fig. 6, the operation of securing an upper bandA Itoasole piece l2llisshown,andinthiscase the welt strip is omitted, as I propose in certain embodiments o! my invention.
Preparatory to attaching the vamp insert Il to the upper inturned edge I2 of the band Il, this edge is preferably beveled at substantially a 45 angle to a thin edge at its outer surface and the marginal 'edge of the insert Il is correspondingly beveled. Having secured the lower edge of the band Il as above outlined. a iilier 2l approximating the shape of the last is inserted in the forepart for the purpose of supporting the upper edge l2 of the band il and the marginal edge of the vamp insert I 8 while they are brought into registration and secured together by cement. The contour of the filler 2l thus acts as a surface gage for locatingl the meeting edges of the shoe parts in registration and supporting them in such position without imparting any stretching thereto.
When the adjacent` edges of the band il' and the vamp insert lo have been united by cement,
they may be permanently stitched together with a lockstltch seam II sewn by a curved needle machine of the construction suggested in Fig. 2 or by any other machine suitable for this purpose. As illustrated, the machine is provided with a presser'roll 40 mounted to rotate freely upon the end of a curved arm 42 by which the roll may be conveniently positioned within the shoe behind the sewing point. Apair of slotted work clamps M are arranged to. engage the outer surface of the work and cooperate with the roll lIll in seaoaavso curelyholdingthewm-kinpositimiitlnawl andneedle. Theawlandneedlesrebothcurved andarrangedtoswingahoutthemmeaxisot movement. Theawlisnotshowninylk.2,butis arrangedtomoveupwardly,perforatingthework 5 from the side nearest themachine,andthenfeed ing the work towardtheleft into t with thepath ofthe needle which entersthework fromabove,movinginaneedieguidell.` Arotaryshuttledisposedinashuttlecaseisb-Io catedadjacenttothepathofthel'ieedleandaV looper 5l adiacent totheneedle 4l servesgits usualpurposeinformingthelockstchseamll which permanently unites theparof the vamp.
Thequartermaybesewntotherearendsls ofthebandllatanyconvenienttimeinthenmnufachireoftheshoe,preferablyafter the formation of the lock-stitch seam Il, and thisoperationiseectedwiththeassistaneeofa straightneedlemachinebeforetheurperisplaced 20 uponthelast. Theshoeinthisconditionrep- IesentedInFigSothedmWings. Havingcompletedtheupperinthemanneraboveexpiained, aisstllmaynowbeforcedintotheshoetretchingthe upperand'imparungthedeshedlhapezs thereto. Preparatorytoinseridngthelastlla heel-seatpieceumaybeinsertedwitlnthe upper and the heel-seatthenlastedby'm'king the lower margin of the quarter, counts and ofthe last. Theoftheheel-seatis inaccordance with well-known methods of shoemaking, as illustrated in Pig. 3.
chinesuitableforthispurpose. Theontmamll 4o mayextendforthefulllengthofthewdtuand theheel-seatoftheshoemaybesecuredbyheei- 'seatnailsdriventhroughieouisolatlnmtumedmarginsotthequarterand solell. Itwillbeapparmtthatthellmetlll shownlnlllgaandwherethehwethllhlllnaiedge Ilofthebandlgisshownubtedmd stitchedbyalineoi'sutchingtoihe marginoiasolepieeel2l,withoui:iihell'meneliI ofaweltstrlp. Incompletingashoedb tom thus formed and stitched by a seamfl directlytotheinturnedmarglnottheupp'er band-Ilwhlchisadjacenttotheinsole |20. a -Itwillbeapparenttromthefdenulption that the diiiicuit operation of smoothly cmfonning aiiat vamp of'large to the smaliercontour ofaiinishedshoehasbem obviated by employing a narrow upright band in the periphery ofthe forepart and ting this with an insert which substantially covers the forepart. Moreover, the employment of such aband, which maybecutto i'ltits plaoeinie shoe without substantial strethlng. permits the 70 welt strip to be registered with its'edge as a i preliminary step of the shoe-making method lnstead of being secured at an indeterminate line depending to someextent on the degree of stretch in the vamp, as in prior commercial practice. i5
Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:
1. A method of making shoes, which consists in registering one edge of a band of upper leather with an edge of a welt strip, securing said registered edges to the margin of a sole piece, supporting the other edge of said band and simultaneously securing the margin of a vamp insert thereto, and subsequently inserting a last'in the upper and stitching an outsole to the welt strip.
2. A method of making shoes, which includes the steps of shaping a band of leather to form the upright peripheral walls of the vamp, beveling the upper longitudinal edge of said band', supporting said edge about its contour without stretching the band, cementing a beveled edge vamp insert to the edges of the band while so supported, and then stitching together the adjacent edges of the band and insert.
3. A method of making shoes, which consists in shaping a narrow band to constitute the peripheral walls of the forepart of a shoe, cement coating the upper longitudinal edge thereof, inserting a filler `within the forepart to support the upper cement-coated edge of the band without substantially stretching the same, and then uniting to said cement-coated edge a vamp insert completing the forepart of the shoe.
4. A method of making shoes, which consists in shaping a band to constitute the peripheral walls of the forepart of a shoe, inwardly beveling the upper edge of the band and applying cement thereto, temporarily supporting the. cemented edge from the inside, butting a correspondingly beveled and cemented vamp insert to the edge of the band while so supported, and then stitching through the band and insert within the butted line to form a V-shaped ridge.
5. A method o! making shoes, which consists in shaping a band of upper material to form the walls of the torepart, applying cement" to the upper longitudinal edge of the band. temporarily supporting the cemented edge by a iiller member which supplies a gage for locating a vamp in- 5 sert, butting the edges of the band and vamp insert while both are positioned by the filler, removing the ller, and stitching the butted edges together while their line of juncture is locally supported from inside the forepart.
6. A method of making shoes, which consists in shaping a band of definite width to constitute the walls of the forepart without widthwise stretching of the band, securing a welt strip to the lower edge of the band in edge-registering relation, temporarily supporting the upper edge of the band, butting the edge of a vamp insert thereto and lightly attaching the same while the band and vamp insert are temporarily supported against collapsing inwardly, securing the butted edges by a lineof stitching, inserting a last, and stitching an outsole to the welt.
7. A shoe of the mocassin type having a vamp which comprisesv a substantially upright band of upper material with its upper longitudinal margin turned inwardly and stitched to a centrally located insert, an insert shaped to flt the contour of the lower longitudinal edge of said band and forming a part of the shoe bottom, and an outsole stitched to the margin of the band outside 3 said bottom insert.
8. A shoe of the moccasin type havinga vamp which comprises a substantially upright band of upper material with its upper longitudinal margin turned inwardly and stitched to a centrally located insert and its lower longitudinal margin turned inwardly and secured to the edge of a shoe-bottom insert, and an outsole stitched to the lower inturned margin of said band.