US 2058367 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
Oct. 20, 1936. M. STEINER 2,058,367
SHIRT Filed Feb. 20, 1956 Patented Oct. I 20, 1936 UNITED STATES SHIRT Max Steiner, Vienna, Austria Application February'20, 1936, Serial No. 64,961 In Austria October 23, 1935 3 Claims.
The invention relates to a shirt which can be worn either with a closed or with an open collar and has for its object so to design the shirt that in the open as well as in the closed position, it has a well-fitting, attractive appearance giving the impression of a jacket or sports shirt so that at any time it can if desired be worn without a jacket. According to the invention, the shirt has, instead of the front buttoning strip, wing-like lapels which, when the shirt is closed, overlap each other by an increasing amount from the bottom point of the shirt opening up to the collar band, so that in the opened position, they have the form of coat lapels or revers. When worn with the collar closed, the shirt, according to the invention, by the omission of the buttoning strip and the replacement thereof by the overlapping lapels, presents the advantage of a shirt opening which closes completely and is at the same time of attractive appearance, making it impossible for the opening to gape, as frequently takes place with the usual buttoning strip. Since with the improved shirt, no button is visible between the points of the collar, this can be worn not only with a tie but also without one, without its appearance in the closed position suffering. In the opened position with the revers thrown open,.the shirt having its collar cut in coat form, forms a becoming and light article of clothing which is particularly adapted for mens and childrens wear in summer-time. A further object of the invention consists in a new form of collar making an adjustment of the width of collar possible, so that the collar can be adapted to different sizes of neck without suffering in appearance in one or the other position, or giving rise to the formation of creases. For adjusting the size of the collar, there are arranged at the upper ends of the lapels or revers, or laterally under the collar, two buttons along side of each other. It is also advisable to provide for the connection of the two lapels with each other, with buttons arranged along side of each other in order that when alter-.
ing the size of the collar, it be possible also to alter correspondingly the connection of the lapels.
The invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawing wherein:Fig. 1 shows the improved shirt in the closed condition with collar arranged according to the closed style of wearing. Fig. 2 shows the same shirt with collar thrown open. Fig. 3 represents a shirt according to the invention in a position in which the right-hand collar. and rever portion is thrown so far back that the whole of its inner side is visible, the left-hand rever part lying freely exposed so that its outer side can be seen. Figs. 4 and 5 show collar blanks for the improved shirt.
The improved shirt, which otherwise can have the appearance and. the cut of an ordinary shirt with collar attached, has, instead of the buttoning strip serving for closing the front of the shirt, wing-like lapels 2, 2 arranged to overlap each other which start at the two ends of the collar 3 and extend down to the piece 4 (Fig. 1) closing the opening of the shirt at the bottom. The edge lines of the lapels 2, 2', one only of which will be visible when the shirt is in the closed position, run from the bottom part 4 outwards in an obliquely curved line so that the two lapels increasingly overlap each other in the upward direc- 15 tion. At their upper end 5, they come underneath the ends of the collar and can be buttoned underneath the collar. With collar thrown open, the lapels 2, 2 have the form of a coat rever so that the shirt worn opened has the appearance of a coat or sports shirt. The left-hand lapel or rever 2' has in a perpendicular line under the collar opening, buttons 6, whilst the right-hand lapel 2 has correspondingly placed button holes 1. At the upper end of the left-hand lapel 2', and also laterally under the adjacent portion of the collar, are sewn pairs of buttons 8, 8' to which there corresponds button holes 9, 9' on the righthand lapel 2 or respectively on the ends of the collar adjacent to these lapels. According to which button of the pairs of buttons 8, 8', the button holes 9, 9' are buttoned over, so will the size of the collar be smaller or larger, so-that the collar can be adapted to different sizes of necks as will be understood. In order that the connection of the revers or lapels 2, 2' can be varied with the alteration of the size of the neck, the buttoning points 6, l and in particular the top buttoning point that is the point adjacent to the collar closure, are also made in pairs (Fig. 3). In order to make the buttoning points for connection the lapels 2, 2' invisible from the outside when the shirt is closed, the buttons can be sewn on to the inner face ID of the outer (right-hand) lapel. This is particularly advisable when the shirt is to be worn with- 4 out a tie or with a scarf.
The collar only attains its correctly fitting shape when its lower edge is cut in an arc and is sewn on with a seam 14 corresponding to this arc, unlike an ordinary shirt collar which is cut to join by a straight seam on to the body of the shirt. The improved shirt can be made both with turned-down collars in the nature of sports shirts or with raised or so-called stand-up collars. In the former case, a collar blank ll (Fig. 5) is 55 used and in the latter case a collar blank l2,
I: (Fig. 4), l3 being the strip of the stand-up collar. The improved form of shirt can naturally also be used with shirts having detachable collars. With a shirt according to the invention having detachable collars, the collar band must have button-holes in the usual manner at the front where the collar closes for Joining its ends and for fastening the collar. If with such shirts the size of the collar is also to be adjustable, then both the collar band as also the collar must be provided at one end with double button-holes.
The front part of the shirt according to this invention can, as with the ordinary shirt, be cut out of one piece but if this is done when the lower parts of the lapels 2, 2' which are adjacent to thepiece l are cut it is necessary that they are at such a distance from each other that the in wardly curving upper ends of the lapels do not overlap. This means a certain waste of material as the whole of the material which is below the comparatively wide front cut-out portions must, with the finished shirt, be folded together in the fold running downwards from the part 4. If the front part of the shirt is made out of two parts, this waste of material can be avoided but in this case, va seam running down the shirt from the point '4, will be necessary, this, however, does not represent any disadvantage. When the front part of the shirt is made out of two parts the fold below the point 4 is preferably formed by means of the extended inner face ID of the lapel or rever running over the part 4 and down to the end of the material or shirt.
1. A shirt having a two piece bosom and a turn down shirt attached collar adjustable to at least three positions,- the upper meeting edge portions of said bosom having upper ends formed into peaked extensions, each having its extremity extending upwardly above the plane of the collar closure portion of the shirt, fastening means for each of said extensions, and cooperating means under the collar at each side of the collar closure portion of the shirt for adjustably securing each of said extensions in a plurality of overlapped positions to adjust the size of the neck opening, the collar being seamed to the shirt on a line convex to the collar whereby the collar portion of the shirt maybe folded into afold over collar position or-a lapel forming position.
2.. The structure of claim -1, said collar comprising a unitary collar blank extending from the seam line to the outer edge of the collar whereby the intermediate portion of the collar is free from exposed seams.
3. 'I'hestructure of claim 1, said collar including an under section comprising a collar strip formed of two pieces seamed together along the fold line of the collar, and a unitary outer collar blank extending from the said first named seam to the outer edge of the collar whereby the intermediate portion of the collar is free from exposed seams.