US 2086908 A
Abstract available in
Claims available in
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
July 13, 1937.
H. B. csolFzM/m MANUFCTURE OF FOOTWEAR Filed Aug. 51, 1935 PATENT OFFICE 2,086,908 l s c MANUFACTURE OF FOOTWEAR` f Henry B. Gorman, Lynchburg, Va., assignor to Compo i `Shoe Machinery Corporation, New ,c
York, N. Y.,` a corporation of Delaware Application Augustfsi, 1935, serial No. sasso f 2 claims. c (o1- 12-142) invention relatesto `the ,manufactture"` of footwear and morel particularly to the making of welted shoes; i y ,Y A, u
A general objectof the invention is to provide af welted` shoe of `improved construction which may be maderapidly and economically.
` More particularlv`,`` objects'` of the invention are to provide methods "of making welted shoes in` which a weltedupper may be quickly and efficient- 10,` lyr lasted bymeans of cement .to provide allasted upper lconstruction which is well suited to have an outsole afxed theretqalso preferably by means of cement. f
Dther objects of theV invention will in part be 15 obvious `and will .in part appear hereinafter.
` The invention accordingly comprisesthe several steps and the `relatonrof one or more `of such stepswith respect to each ofjthe others, and the article possessing` the "features, properties, and
20 the relation of elements; which are exemplified in the following detai1eddisclosure,"and thescope of the invention-Will` be indicated in the claims.
For a'fullen understanding of the nature and `objects ofthe invention reference should be had 25 to the following detailed description taken in connection withV 4the `accompanying drawing, in which:
Fig. 1 is a bottom plan view of a completed shoe i constructed in accordance with the principles of 3o this invention, parts thereof being broken away better to show the construction;
Fig. 2 is a fragmentary sectional view through the edge of an assembled upper used in the construction of Fig. 1;4 y
i 35 Fig. 3 is a` fragmentary transverse sectional View through the inseam portion of a shoe;
Fig. 4 is a fragmentary transverse vertical sectional view corresponding to Fig. 3, but showing an outsole attached; 4o Fig. 5 is a plan view of a fastening piece used in another forinoit` shoe embodying principles of this invention;`
Fig. Gis` a fragmentary sectional view oi the edge of an assembled upper, utilizing the fasten- 45 ing piece of Fig. 5;
Fig. 'l is a fragmentary transverse vertical sec` tional view across the inseam portion of a shoe; and,
i Fig. Sis a fragmentary transverse vertical sec-A 50 tional view similar to Fig. '1 but showing an outsole attached.
Referring more `particularly to the drawing, and rst to Fig. 2, there is shown a portion of an assembled upper I0 which may be of any conven- 65 tional plied arrangement of upper and lining mathat no filler is necessary."
terials., Thislupper I0 is trimmed yso as to appreach but preferably not overlapv an insole when pulled 'over a last on `which such insole is located. That is, it has a very slight lasting allowance. Prior to` lasting operations, such upper has a welt I I, preferably of leather, superposed along its outside face, anda Vfabric fastening strip I2 issuperposed along the outside face of such welt. This stripmay be of heavy canvas, duck or other suitable strong flexible material. These superposed partsvar'e sewed together by aline of stitching I3, located closely Vadjacent'. the Vedge ofthe upper;r s s An insole I4 is then located on the bottom of a last l5, and theupper withv its attached welt and fastening strip is pulled over the last. In this pullingoveroperation, `the fastening strip I2 is doubled baci; on itselfso` as to overlap the insole, and this overlapped portion is cemented thereto. preferably by means of pyroxylin cement. The fabric I2 affords a good base for cement and is adapted to providea'firm bond`,'and may be so thin that it permits close contact of the juxtaposed leather parts as shown in the drawing, so
The welt II is nent roughed or,`if desired, this operation may be 'performed prior to its assembly with` the upper. If the welt is roughed after the upper has been lasted, the fasteningstrip I2 may also be roughed at the same time to provide a Wide roughed attaching surface to which an outsole may be cemented. Cement is next applied to the welt II and the under surface of the fastening strip I2, and an outsole I6 having its marginal portions similarly roughed and coated with l cement is placed against the bottom of the welted upper and aixed thereto under pressure in a suitable sole afxing press. Preferably pyroxylin cement is used for this operation as well as for the lasting operation, although it is contemplated `that `other suitable `adhesives may be used in either case.
The assembly of such a shoe is much easier than that of most welted shoes wherein the upper and 'welt are lasted to a ribbedinsole. Further, 45 the step of sewing both the welt and fastening strip along the outside face of the upper is quite simple and facilitates handling of the materials, and the doubling back of the strip pulls the Welt and upper neatly into position against the side of the insole, as is indicated in Fig. 3, and at the same time provides a strong sewed joint at I3v which is so arranged that the strip can not readily pull out from its attaching threads.
ing tabs (not shown) may be used, each of which can be sewed to the outer face of the welt and doubled back over the insole.
Another form of shoe embodying this general construction is shown in Figs. 5 to 8. Here, a fabric attaching material of canvas, duck or the like, is provided in the form of an insole ply II2 which is substantially co-extensive with the insole to be employed in the completed shoe. This ply is longitudinally slit at I1 from its heel nearly to its toe, and is provided with a plurality of lateral slits extending from such longitudinal slit toward the edge of the ply. The ply is also provided with marginal locating notches I9 which are adapted to be registered with similar notches (not shown) in the edge of an upper to which the described insole plyy is adapted to be attached. This upper III), like that described above, is trimmed at its lasting allowance edge so as to approach but not materially overlap. the insole to which it is lasted. A welt III is superposed along the outer lace of the upper and the insole ply I I2 is positioned along the inner side thereof, this operation being facilitated by the slits I I and I8. These parts are sewed together by a line of stitching I I3 located closely adjacent the edge of the upper.
An insole H4, which may be slightly thinner than a conventional insole, is located on the bottom of a. last II5 and the upper with its associated welt and insole ply is pulled thereover, the ply affording a gripping means for the pulling over machine. Cement is applied between the insole and the attaching fabric H2, and the latter is affixed to the insole with its various slit sections reassembled in substantially the position indicated in Fig. 5 to provide a composite insole including the parts IM and II2.
A suitable filler material IIB is packed in the bottom of the forepart of the thus formed lasted upper interiorly of the inseam, and an outsole I I 6 is attached to the welt I I I, either by stitching or cementing.
This form of shoe also provides substantial economies, and is capable of rapid and easy manufacture.
It will be seen that a method of manufacturing welted shoes has been provided which is well suited to fulfill its intended functions.
Since certain changes in carrying out the above process, and certain modifications in the article which embody the invention may be made without departing from its scope, it is intended that all matter contained in the above description or shown in the accompanying drawing shall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.
It is also to be understood that the following claims are intended to cover all of the generic and specific features of the invention herein described, and all statements of the scope of the invention which, as a matter of language, might be said to fall therebetween.
Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:
1. In a method of making a shoe, the steps comprising locating a thin insole on a last, providing an assembled upper of a size to approach but not to overlap said insole when pulled over said last, superposing a welt along the outer face of the margin of said upper, providing a fabric insole ply corresponding in shape with said insole, longitudinally slitting said ply from the heel nearly to the toe, slitting said ply lateraly from said first slit toward but not to its edges in a plurality of places, stitching the edges of said ply to said upper and welt closely adjacent the edge of the upper, pulling said upper and ply over the last, cementing said ply, and sticking it to said insole with its slit portions closely reassembled.
2. In a method of making a shoe, the steps comprising locating an insole on a last, providing an assembled upper of a size to approach but not to overlap said insole, superposing a welt along the outer face of the margin of said upper, providing a fabric insole plycorresponding in shape with said insole, slitting said ply so as to enable it to be pulled oversaid last when attached to said upper, stitching the edges of said ply to said upper and welt closely adjacent the edge of the upper, pulling said upper and ply over the last, cementing said ply and sticking it to the insole with its slit portions closely reassembled but not overlapping, and attaching an outsole to said Welt.
HENRY B. GORMAN.