US 2106412 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
Jan. 25, 1938. l J. OVIATT 2,106,412 SHIRT I 2' Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Oct. 21, 1936 Inventor James 011/077 4&3
-Ac orney Patented Jan. 25, 1938 UNITED STATES SHIRT James Oviatt, Los Angeles, Calif. Application October 21, 1936, Serial No. 106,836 7 Claims. (01. 2-115) My invention has reference to shirts, pajamas, sack coats, jackets and overcoats, and although my invention is illustrated and will be described of the sport type, it is to be understood that my invention is not limited to this embodiment but may be incorporated in any of the aforesaid garments.
It is a purpose of my invention to provide a shirt which is characterized by its conformity to the small of the back of the wearer so as'to give a form fit thereto and thereby eliminate the excess material found at that point in the con ventional shirt, and yet, provide sui'flcient excess material uniformly distributed across the'sh'ouL der blade portion of the back to allow unrestricted movement of the shoulders and arms.
Another purpose of my invention is the provision of a shirt shaped at its back to conform to the buttocks sufficiently to prevent the shirt from creeping up above the trousers.
It is also a purpose of my invention to provide a shirt or the like, wherein the usual shoulder yokes of a shirt are eliminated and the shirt back material is extended over the crest of the shoulder portions and stitched to the shirt front, thereby so locating the resultant shoulder seams as to in no way restrict forward movement of the shoulders and arms.
I will describe only one form of shirt embodying my invention, and will then point out the novel features thereof in claims.
In the accompanying drawings:
Fig. 1 is a view showing in front elevation one form of shirt embodying my invention.
Fig. 2 is a view showing the shirt in rear elevation.
Fig. 3 is an enlarged sectional view taken on the line 3-3 of Fig. 2.
Fig. 4 is an enlarged sectional view taken on the line 44 of Fig. 1.
Fig. 5 is a reduced sectional view taken on the line 55 of Fig. 2 and applied to the back of a wearer.
Fig. 6 is a view on a reduced scale, showing the shirt applied to a wearer.
Fig. '7 is a plan view of a sheet of material having tucks therein superimposed upon, and thus contrasted with, a sheet of material before the tucks are made.
Referring specifically to the drawings, the garment embodying my invention comprises a front I5 of a design such as the sport type illustrated with an attached collar I 6, and a back I! connected to the front at its sides by seams IS. The
back and front are provided with arm holes in whichare stitched sleeves I9 defining seams 25.
Preferably but not necessarily, the back H is formed from one piece of material which as originally cut is greater in width than that required to form the back of a particular size shirt, as shown in Fig. 7, and-this excess width is such as to provide the necessary excess'material at the required point in the back of the shirt. Also, the material forming the back is of slightly greater length than that required for the conventional shirt, with the material for the front correspondingly shortened, in order that such back material may be made to form the crest of the shoulder portions of the shirt, or, in other words, to be extended to the forward side of the shirt so that a seam 2| (Figs. 1 and 4) will be formed at that point, rather than two seams at opposite sides of the crest of the shoulder portions for an inserted yoke as in the conventional shirt.
As best shown in Fig. 2, the shirt back I! at its waist portion is formed with tucks 22 along lines extending lengthwise of the back and spaced one from the other transversely of the back. The manner in which these tucks are formed is illustrated in Fig. 3, wherein, the material is gathered and stitched along the base of the gather to maintain the tucks permanent. These tucks 22 are for the purpose of taking up the excess material at the waist portion of the shirt back and to thereby eliminate that unsightly bagginess always present in the conventional shirt. Also, where the tucks extend considerably below the waist line and into that part of the shirt which is inserted into trousers, as shown in Fig. 6, the shirt conforms to the buttocks sufiiciently to prevent the shirt from creeping up above the trousers.
As shown, the tucks 22 at either side of a line extending medially of the length of the back, are curved in the general direction of the respective shoulder. This is for the purpose of causing the back at this portion to be shaped inwardly to conform substantially to the concavity of the small of the wearers back and to thereby give a form fit to the shirt. Also, the two groups of tucks at opposite sides of the said medial line are spaced less apart as they proceed toward such line. This is for the purpose of taking up more material at the center than at the sides of the back and to thereby absorb the excess material uniformly transversely of the back and in the amount necessary to render the back form fitting at this point.
The tucks 22 may terminate at their lower ends at a point above that region of the wearers back above the buttocks, but the upper ends of the tucks must terminate below the shoulder blade portion of the back in order that the excess material at this point may remain undisturbed insofar as taking up any part thereof.
From the shoulder seam 2! of the shirt the material forming the back I1 is tucked along lines 23, and these tucks extend over the shoulder portions of the shirt and downwardly of the back thereof, terminating above that portion of the back transversing the shoulder blades of the wearer. her as the tucks 22, but from the shoulder portions of the shirt they converge toward the center 0 the tucks shown within the a of the back. From neck portion of Fig. 1, it is to be noted that the tucks are widest toward the top of the shirt and taper to points adjacent the shoulder blades. By
means of these tucks that excess material of the shoulder portions is taken up to reduce this part of the shirt to the proper size, and by reason of the convergent arrangement of the tucks, the shirt is rendered form fitting over the shoulders. As with the tucks 22, the tucks 23 are spaced less apart as they proceed toward the center of the back in order to uniformly take up that excess material at the shoulder portions of the shirt,
From the preceding description it will be manifest that the tucks 22 and. 23 by reason of their position and arrangement, take up excess material at the respective parts of the back leaving the intervening part of the back or that part transversing the shoulder blades of the wearer, of uniform fullness from side to side. By maintaining this back fullness, unrestricted movement of the arms and shoulders of the wearer is permitted, and particularly forward movement as in the act of swinging a golf club.
While attaining this freedom of movement, the shirt is also body-conforming in respect to the small of the back and the shoulders of the wearer. It has been found in practice that by constructing a shirt in accordance with my invention the arm holes of the shirt may be made smaller and more snugly fitted to the wearer without restraining arm and shoulder movements, and thus that excess material below the arm pits ever present in the conventional shirt can be eliminated. This is because the material of the shirt is rotated about a center, shown approximately at 28, Fig. '1, due to the gathering across the shoulders. As a result the arm scye is raised These tucks are formed in the same manfrom its original position at 30 to the position at 30. Also, the position of the shoulder seam 2| of the shirt to the forward side thereof eliminates the yokes found in the conventional shirt and prevents the shoulder seam from restraining forward movements of the arms and shoulders.
1. A shirt-like garment comprising front and rear portions joined together adjacent the shoulder of said garment, and arm scyes, said rear portion being oversize for a garment of any given size across the shoulder blade region, and tucks in said rear portion extending from the line of juncture between said front and rear portions and terminating substantially at the upper line of said. shoulder blade region, said tucks bringing the shoulder portion to a desired size, the arm scyes of said rear portion being raised by the gatheringof the material of said rear portion in said tucks.
2. A garment as in claim 1, said rear portion being continued over the shoulder of said garment and being joined to said front portion in front of said shoulder.
3. A garment as in claim 1, said tucks converging in a direction towards the middle of said back portion.
4. A garment as in claim 1, said tucks converging in a direction towards the middle of said back portion, and said tucks being spaced progressively closer towards the vertical center line of said back portion.
5. A shirtlike garment having a back portion normally oversize for any given size garment and having arm scyes, tuck means gathering the material of said garment above the. shoulder blade region of said garment and thereby raising said arm scyes, and second tuck means gathering said material in the waist region of said garment, said tuck means bringing the shoulders and waistv regions to size, and the shoulder blade region of said garment being free of either of said tuck means.
6. A garment as in. claim 5, each of said tuck means comprising a plurality of tucks spaced progressively closer together towards the vertical center line of said back portion.
'7. A garment as in claim 5, each of said tuck means comprising a plurality of tucks spaced progressively closer together towards the vertical center line of said back portion, and said tucks being inclined with respect to said center line.