US 2138041 A
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Description (OCR text may contain errors)
NOV. 29, 1938. AGH- PRESTON 2,138,041
GARMENT Fiied Aug. 14, 195e 2 sheets-sheet 1 (ih/www Nov. 29, 1938. G. H. PRESTON GARMENT Filed Aug. 14?, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Nov. 29, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE GARMENT Application Augustli, 1936, Serial No. 96,078
The present invention relates to garments vand has more particular application to coats of the reversible type which may beworn with either face out.
It has been proposed in the past and at the present time coats are made which are reversible. In such coats it is customary to employ one type or color of fabric for one face and a contrasting type or color or fabric for the other face, such as, for instance, a tweed or dress coat material for one face and a gabardine or other waterproof or sport material on the opposite face. The demand for such coats while potentially large is not as great as might be expected due to the Vfact that in such coats, the material forming each side Vor face extends to the lapel portions so that when the coat is worn and the lapels are turned down in regular fashion the outer face of the lapels are in contrast with respect to the body of the coat. This is not objectionable when the coat is worn as a sport or raincoat with the gabardine side or face out, but it is aserious objection when the coat is worn with'the tweed side out as a dress coat, since it detracts from the appearance of the coat when so worn to have the lapels faced with a contrasting material, such as a gabardine or other waterproof material.
The primary object of the present invention is to provide a coat with an improved lapel construction which will overcome these objectionable features of the conventional reversible coat.
Another object of the invention is to provide a reversible coat in which the lapel portions formed with or carried by the respective face materials are made as separate plies, one at least of which is self faced.
A further object is to provide a reversible coat in which the lapel portions are formed as separate plies, detachably secured together so that one providing means whereby the coat may be worn as a self-trimmed coat or as a contrastingly- Fig. 4 is Aan enlarged sectional view of one of the lapels With one lapel portion folded inwardly out of sight;
Fig. A5 isla sectional perspective view through one of the lapels showing the manner of fastening the edges together;
Fig. 6 is an enlarged perspective view of one of vthe lapels with the plies separated;
Fig. 7 is a perspective View with parts broken away illustrating a 'modified form of the invention;
Fig. 8 is a sectional View through one of the lapel portions 'of 4the modified form showing the manner of folding one lapel out of sight;
Fig. 9 is a sectional View of the modified form showing the manner of attaching the lapel portions to the collar;
Fig. 10 isa perspective view of a further modied formfof the invention;
Fig. 11 is a sectional View lthrough the lapel of this latter form showing the manner of concealing `one of the plies;
Fig. 12 is an edge view illustrating a different type of fastening for' securing the edges of the lapels together;
Fig. 13 is a sectional View taken `on the line l.3-I3 of Fig. 12; and
Fig. 14is `a perspective View of a further modied construction.
In the description, .for purposes of convenience, the coat will 4be described as being made with tweed for -one face and gabardine for the other face, although 4it Vwill be understood. that this is merely by way Voi illustration, and that any other suitable fabrics could be substituted for these whenever desired.
In the form of `the invention illustrated in Figs. Al to 6., the reversible coat |63 comprises a fabric l I on one side vor face, which may be tweed or any other material from which such garments are. ordinarily made, and a 'fabric l2 on the other side which may bef'gabardine or any other contrasting material, and may be and preferably is a. waterproof fabric so that when the side I2 is turned outwardly, the coat'will serve as a raincoat.
VThe main body portion of the coat, the sleeves and collarproper may be of conventional construction.
As the lapelson each side of the coat in each instance are the fsame, only one will be described.
The tweed face' -I| is preferably extended andl cut tothe desiredshape to form a lapel portion I3hav-ing the edge Vthereof turned under as at I4, yand `enclosing a cord or filling strip kI 5 in the fold, the latter being held by a line of stitching I6 extending through the ply I3 and infolded edge I4. The lapel portion I3 is faced with a piece I1 of the same material which also has its edge turned in as at I8, and is likewise provided with an edge filling cord I9 secured by stitching 20. The infolded edges I4 and I8 are placed together and the plies I3 and I1 are secured together by a line of stitching 2|, said stitching passing through the plies I3 and I1 and the inturned edges thereof, and being spaced inwardly a short distance from the edges of the lapel portion thus formed so that the edges may be spread apart slightly for a purpose to be presently described. i
The tweed face and lapel portion are joined to the collar 22 along the line 23.
The gabardine face I2 ofthe coat is also eX- tended and shaped to provide a lapel portion 24, the edge portion thereof being turned under as at 25. In order to reinforce the edge of the gabardine lapel portion, a tape 26 is secured along the inner face of the edge by rows of stitching 21 and 28. A second tape 29 having a free inwardly extending edge is also secured to the inner face of this lapel portion, its secured edge preferably being disposed between the tape 26 and the infolded edge 25, all three being secured by the row of stitching 28.
The gabardine face is joined to the collar along the line 24', but the lapel portion 20 is free of permanent attachment to the collar.
A line of stitching 25 is preferably provided along the fold line of the lapels, joining the faces together at this point.
In order to provide for securing the tweed and gabardine lapel portions together when desired, hook fasteners 30 are secured vto the inner face of the upper edge of the gabardine lapel, these preferably extending from the line of fold to the edge of the collar and cooperating eyes 3| are secured to the tweed face along the corresponding line of juncture of the collar and lapel portion. From the edge of the `collar to the lower end of the lapel, the tape 26 is provided with spaced holes 32. The free edges of the plies of the tweed lapel portion are provided with a row of snap fasteners, the stem portion 33 being secured to one ply and the socket portion 34 to the other, these snap fasteners being spaced the same distance apart as the holes in the tape 29.
Now when it is desired to join the tweed and gabardine lapels into a single unit, the hook fasteners 30 are engaged with the eyes 3l and the tape 29 is inserted between the edges of the plies I3 and I1, with the stems 33 of the snap fasteners passing through the holes 32. Hook and eye fasteners are preferred for the upper edge as they will resist any downward pull on the lapel. If desired, one element of the snap fastener could be mounted on the tape and the other element between the edges of the tweed lapel or some other type of fastening means may be provided.
In the use of a garment embodying this form of the invention, when the same is worn with the gabardine side out, the two lapel portions will be secured together as above described. The effect will be a gabardine body with tweed lapels.
When the tweed face is turned out, the lapels may be left joined together, giving a tweed body with gabardine lapels, or the. lapels may be separated and the gabardine lapel folded inwardly under the coat out of sight thus exposing the tweed facing I1 and giving a self-trimmed coat. When the latter is done, the edgesof Athe `tweed lapel are secured together by the snap fasteners, the cords I5 and I9 in these edges causing them to t closely together giving a nished appearance.
In the modified form of the invention shown in Fig. 7, double faced lapels are provided for both faces of the coat. The lapel portion 35 formed with the tweed face 36 is provided with a tweed facing 31, the edges of the two plies being turned in and secured by a line of stitching 38.
The lapel portion 39 formed with the gabardine face 40 is provided with a gabardine facing 4I, the edges of the two plies being turned in and secured by a line of stitching 42.
In this form of the invention the upper edges of both the tweed and gabardine lapel portions are left free of the adjacent portion of the collar 43, each being providedwith a row of hook fasteners 44 and 45, respectively, and the adjacent collar portion being provided with a row of eyes 46 for cooperation with said hooks when desired. The hooks 44 and 45 are set in pockets in the edge of the respective lapel portions, as clearly shown in Fig. 9. p
Means may also be provided for detachably securing the free edges of the respective lapel portions together, although it is preferred in the use of a coat embodying this form of the invention to always turn the contrasting lapel in out of sight, as shown in Fig. 8.
In this form of the invention, a line of stitching 48 along the line of fold of the lapels passes through both face fabrics and the inner edges of the lapel facings 31 and 4I.
In the form of the invention shown in Figs. 10 and l1, double faced lapel portions are provided for each face of the coat. The tweed lapel 50 is provided with a tweed facing 5I and the gabardine lapel 52 is provided with a gabardine facing 53.
The upper edges of the lapel portions are detachably secured to the adjacent lower edge of the collar portion 54 by means of hookless fasteners, one track 55 and the slider 56 of which is fastened to the collar, mating tracks 51 and 58 being secured to the upper edges of the respective lapel portions. The type of hookless fastener shown more or less diagrammatically herein is of a well known type now in extensive use, wherein the tracks can be entirely separated from each other.
In this form of the invention, a pocket 59 is formed between the tweed face 69 and the gabardine face 6I of the coat for the reception of the lapel portions when it is desired to conceal one of them from sight, as shown in Fig. 1l.
In the use of this form of the invention, it is contemplated that the coat will be worn with one lapel portion concealed within the pocket 59, and itis obvious that different results may be obtained in the way of self or contrastingly-trimmed effects, depending upon which lapel portion is concealed and which one is secured to the collar and worn outwardly.
The embodiment of the invention shown in Figs. l2 and 13 is somewhat similar to that shown in Figs. 1 to 6. In this form, the tweed lapel 62 is provided with a tweed facing 63, each having inturned edge portions 64 Vand 65 between which are mounted a row of socket or sheath elements 66. These socket elements are secured in position in any suitable manner, such as by prongs 61 struck from the sides thereof, and are concealed from sight by reason of being inset from the edges between the plies of the lapel.
The gabardine face is provided with a lapel portion 68 as in Fig. 1, and this portion has a turned under edge 69 reinforced by a tape 10 secured by a double row of stitching 'Il and 12. A row of pronged fasteners or bayonet elements 'I3 each has its base portion 'I4 secured under the turned under edge 69 of the lapel portion 68. The pronged portion 'l5 passes outwardly through the turned under edge 69 and is bent upon itself as shown in Fig. 13, projecting inwardly toward the fold of the lapel. l
When using the lapel portion 68, the pronged elements 13 are engaged in their mating sockets 6E being held therein by frictional engagement and the tendency of the tweed lapel to lie flat.
In Fig. 14 a further modification is shown in which the gabardine face 'I6 of the coat is terminated just short of the line of fold of the lapel, being turned under and secured to the tweed face at this point by a line of stitching 11 which also secures the inside edge of the facing 18 of the tweed lapel portion 19 in position.
While preferred embodiments of the invention have been shown and described for purposes of illustration, it is to be understood that various other modifications of the invention as well as changes in the details of construction and materials may be resorted to and are contemplated without department from the spirit of the invention within the scope of the appended claims.
l. In a reversible coat having faces of different material, a lapel portion for each face of said coat, one of said lapel portions being faced with the same material of which it is formed, fastening elements disposed between the plies of said last mentioned lapel portion adjacent the edge thereof, and fastening elements carried by the other lapel portion for engagement with said rst mentioned fastening elements for detachablysecuring the edges of said lapel portions together.
2. In a reversible coat having faces of different material, a lapel portion for each face of said coat, one of said lapel portions being faced with the same material of which it is formed, the other lapel portion having an inturned edge portion, and means for detachably securing said inturned edge portion between the edges of the plies of said first-mentioned lapel portion.
8. In a reversible coat having faces of different material, a lapel formed of two separate flaps, each of said flaps comprising an extension of the body material of the respective faces, and means for detachably securing the free edge portions of said flaps together.
4. In a reversible coat having faces of different material, a lapel formed of two separate flaps, one of said flaps constituting an extension of the body material on one side and being faced with the same material, the other of said flaps constituting an extension of the body material on the other side, and means for detachably securing the free edge portions of said flaps together.
5. A garment of the coat type comprising two lapel portions, one of said lapel portions formed of two plies of material, and means carried by the other lapel portion for engaging between the edges of said plies of material for detachably securing the edges of said lapel portions together.
6. A reversible coat having faces of different material comprising a collar portion, a lapel portion formed with each face, and means comprising fastening means on said collar portion and fastening means on each of said lapel portions selectively engageable with the fastening means on said collar portion for selectively detachably securing the upper free edge portions of a selected one of said lapel portions to the adjacent portion of said collar.
7. In a reversible coat comprising a body portion having faces of different material, a collar portion, and a lapel portion formed with each face of said body portion, each of said lapel portions being faced with the same kind of material of which it is made, and means for selectively detachably securing the upper edges of said lapel portions to theadjacent portion of the collar.
8. In a reversible coat having faces of different material, a separate lapel portion formed with each face and said faces forming a pocket therebetween adjacent lsaid lapel portions, whereby one of said lapel portions may be folded into said pocket.
9. In a garment according to claim 5, said means comprising a strip of flexible material secured along one edge thereof to the under surface of said other lapel portion, and means for detachably seeming the other edge of said strip between the edges of said plies.
1G. In a garment according to claim 5, said means comprising a pronged element carried by said other lapel on the under side thereof, and a sheath for frictionally engaging said pronged element mounted between said plies.
11. In a reversible coat having faces of contrasting material, a collar portion, a lapel portion for each face of said coat, said collar portion and said lapel portions having adjacent edge portions, a track element of a hookless fastener secured to the edge portion of said collar, complementary track portions carried by each of said lapel portions and selectively engageable with thetrack portion carried by said collar to detachably secure a selected one of said lapel portions to said collar portion.
12. In a reversible coat having faces of contrasting material, a collar portion, a lapel portion for each face of said coat, said collar portion and said lapel portions having adjacent edge portions, fastening elements carried adjacent the last mentioned edges of each of said lapel portions and complementary fastening elements carried by said collar portion selectively engageable with the fastening elements carried by said lapel portions for detachably securing either of said lapel portions to said collar portion as desired.
GERALD HARLAN PRESTON.