US 2153244 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
April 4, 1939. J. GALK|N ELASTIC TAPE ATTACHING MECHANISM 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Sept. 14, 1956 Pw 5 g E T m E R 1- 1 I m mm mm mm on N\ 1 m I 2 I L JOSEPH GALK/N INVENTOR.
ATTORNEY April 4, 1939. J. GALKIN 2,153,244
ELASTIC TAPE ATTACHING MECHANISM Filed Sept. 14, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 JOSEPH GAL/0N INVENTOR. M
A TTORNEY April 4, 1939. ALK 2,153,244
' ELASTIC TAPE ATTACHING MECHANISM Filed Sept. 14, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 A '7 JOSEPH GALK/N INVENTOR.
' ATTORNEY April 4, 1939. J K N 2,153,244
ELASTIC TAPE ATTACHING MECHANISM Filed Sept. 14, 1936 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 JOSEPH GALK/N INVENTOR. MW M A TTORNEY Patented Apr. 4, 1939 2,153,244
UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE ELASTIC TAPE ATTACHING MECHANISM Joseph Galkin, New York, N. Y.
Application September 14, 1936, Serial No. 100,778
6 Claims. (Cl. 1122) This invention relates to sewing machines dethickness of the elastic and to provide a dial for signed for attaching an elastic tape to woven controlling the pressure between the jaws. The fabrics, .and particularly to the waistbands of dial gives a visual set indication of the overall bloomers for the purpose of providing frictional length of the finished waistline of the bloomer engagement of the garment on the waists of perand makes it possible to exactly pre-determine 5 sons having difierent size waistlines. the size of the finished bloomers.
The elastic tape is in superposed relation with With the above and other objects in view, the the waitline edge of the woven fabric and is atinvention will be hereinafter more particularly tached to the fabric while under tension, so that described and the combination and arrangement when the stitching operation is finished the tenof parts will be shown in the accompanying 10 sinned and stretched elastic tape returns to its drawings and Pointed Out in the claims Which originally shorter length and gathers the waistform part of this specification. band portion of the woven fabric. Reference will now be had to the drawings,
It is a well known fact that when feeding two wherein like numerals of reference designate corsuperimposed fabrics through the usual sewing responding parts throughout the several views. 15
machine having a lower feed only, the lower ply in which: being engaged by the 4-motion feed dog tends to Figure 1 is a front view of a sewin m e feed faster than the superimposed ply which en embodying my tape guiding mechanism whereby gages the non-advancing r s r foot, h upan elastitc tape may be attached to waistbands per ply not being directly engaged by the lower of e sfeed dog has a tendency to drag. This tendency Figure 2 s a reel V w Of e sewing machine to unequal feeding is aggravated when one of the m dying my i vention.
fabrics to be fed is an elastic tape under tension. Figure 3 s a e V ew Of the ew machine- An object of this invention is to provide a pull- Figure 4 s a s de Vi w O t e p guide mechafeed mechanism or auxiliary feed located in the hism, P y n sec 25 rear of the main feed and in closely spaced rela- Figure 5 s a op V Of the upp means tion from the stitch forming mechanism, and defor the tape guide mec a d showing a tap vices cooperating therewith whereby an elastic threading p ure tape may be passed from the front of the machine Figure 6 is a P View Of the Dresser fOOtbelow the auxiliary feed so as to be engaged and Figure 7 s an elevation of t e ass mb ed seW- 30 pulled while fed to the stitiching mechanism in s ma ne. ta e guide. and a ve t ca y mounta tensioned condition. ed tape supply spool and shows two positions Another object of this invention is to provide Whieh my pe guide may e. a sewing machine having a duplex feedin meeh- Figure 8 is a cross-sectional view of the feed anism comprising an auxiliary t th pull feed roller and the roller housing, showing means for 36 roller mounted for vertical motion close to the preventing lemming 0f e e l e m c rear of the presser-foot, with means for moving Bismthe auxiliary pull-feed roller so that it may be ur 9 shows a m difi d m unt f t given a, feed stroke of th same length as t feed roller whereby the roller is supported from 40 main feed. below by the work supporting base. I 40 Another object of this invention is to mount Figure 10 s an nd V ew Of e p guidethe tape-guide in pivotal relation with the from; In the illustrated embodiment of the invention, of the presser-foot so as to permit said guide to the numeral iii indicates t Work pp be swung upwardly and away from the needl base of a sewing machine embodying my invento facilitate the threading of the needles, tion and which comprises the usual standard ll, 45
Another object of this invention is to groove having an overhanging With a head the pull-feed roller and to insert wires i th at its free end. In the head I3 is journalled the grooves, the ends of the wires being secured in the usual reciprocatory needle-bar carrying w roller housing and serving to throw off the fabric spaced needles l5. The needle-bar is reciprofrom the roller and prevent the fabric from becated by a lever I6 mounted on a pivot shaft I1. 50
ing carried into the roller housing and jamming A looper I8 is oscillated and cooperates with the the feed mechanism. two spaced needles. The looper thread inter- Another object of this invention is to make the looks with the needle threads to form stitching tape-guide with two spring-pressed jaws which as is well klluWll in the sewing machine art. The
automatically open and close depending on the material worked-upon is held down by a presser 55 the lower end of a presser-bar 25 vertically movable in the head |3 in the usual manner. Pressure is maintained upon the presser-foot |9 by a leaf spring 23 pressing upon the presser-bar 25.
The pull-feed roller 26 is rotated by a shaft 21. The roller 26 is mounted in a housing28. The housing 28 is fastened to a vertical lifter pin 29 having a head 34 and which is slidably mounted for vertical motion in bearings 3|. The housing 28 is also mounted for vertical sliding motion on a guide pin 32 secured in the head l3. The presser-bar 25 may be raised by a lever 31. When the presser-bar 25 is raised by the lever 31, it also contacts the collar 34 and raises the lifter pin 29, the housing 28 and the pull-feed roller 26, A leaf spring 38 bears at one end on a spring rest 39 and at the other end on a ball 48 seated in the top face of the housing 28 and this pressure is transmitted to the roller 26.
An adjusting screw 42 threaded in a bracket 43 acts against the spring 38 and forces the roller 26 yieldingly in a' downward direction against a concave and arcuate seat 44 extending upwardly above the work supporting base |8. The lowest level 'of the seat 44 is slightly above the upper level of the needle plate 28. As shown in Figure 7, it will be noted that the toothed roller 26 has three teeth 36 in pressure contact with the concave seat 44 which function to positively grip and feed the elastic tape at a plurality of points positioned in an arc of a circle.
The lifter pin 29 and the auxiliary guide pin 32 jointly maintain the roller 26 in vertical sliding relation and in alinement with the arcuate seat It is desired that a positive rotary step-by-step driving motion be imparted to the shaft 21, to a universal joint 58 and to the pull-feed roller 26 so that it may be given a feed stroke of the same length as the feed-dog 2|. For this purpose I employ an oscillatable clutch detent carrier 55 mounted within an annular casing 56, fixed to the shaft 21, as best shown in Figure 1. A cover plate 5| having an integral arm 58 has been fastened to the clutching detent carrier 55. As is shown in Figure 2, the arm 58 is pivotally connected at one end to a vibrating connection 59 operated by an eccentric 68-on the main shaft 6|.
In order to positively prevent reverse movement of the shaft 21, I have provided a braking detent carrier 65 mounted within the casing 56. A cover plate 66 having an arm 61 has been fastened to the braking detent carrier 65. The arm 61 is secured to the bracket 43 which is fastened to the base plate 41 of the sewing machine.
The clutch detent carrier 55 and the braking detent carrier 65 are'mounted on the shaft 21 to work in opposite directions and may be in the form shown and described in Patent No. 1,985,406 issued to Nathan B. Galkin, dated December 25, 1934. The clutch arm 58 is secured to the cover plate 5| and to the clutch detent carrier 55. The swing of the arm 58 imparts an intermittent rotation to the casing 56 and through a screw 68 to the shaft 21. The braking detent carrier being fixed to the sewing machine frame,
causes the shaft 21 to be gripped at the end of each feeding movement without any lost motion or back-lash at the feed roller 26.
Screwed to the head I 3 is a bracket 69 having an overhanging pivot 18 and a flxed collar in which are two diametrically positioned notches 1|, positioned about 180 degreesapart. An arm 12 has been rotatably mounted on the pivot 18 and a lever 13 has been fulcrumed on a screw 14 and has a lug 15 designed to seat in one of the notches 1| A spring 16 secured between the arm 12 and the lever 13 serves to press the lever into engagement with one of the notches 1| so as to lock the arm 12 on the pivot 18 in an operative position shown in full lines or in an inoperative position shown in dot-and-dash lines in Figure 7.
Pivotally mounted on a pivot 11 in the arm 12, shown in Figure 4, is a tape engaging element 18. Extending from the arm 12 through a suitable aperture in the element 18 is a tension post 19 carrying an adjusting nut 88 between which and the element 18 is disposed a leaf spring 8|. By adjusting the nut 88 a predetermined pressure is exerted'upon the arm 12 by the element 18.
A lever 82, best shown in Figure 10, has been fulcrumed on a screw 83 in an angular extension of the arm 12 and has-a lug 84 extending under the thumb engaging portion 85 of the lever .13. The lower end 86 of the lever 82 is angularly bent, as shown in Figure 9, to engage the rear surface of the tape engaging element 18. It will thus be seen that when the lever 13 is actuated, the lever 82 forming a connection between the lever 13 and the tape engaging element 18, causes the said element to move away from the arm 12 and to release the tension on the tape. The lever 13 thus releases the tension on the tape at all times except when the tape guide 92 is in one of its two positions.
The arm 12 and the tension element 18 are directed parallel to and spaced from the line of seam formation but have angularly directed lower end portions 81 disposed crosswise of the line of seam formation and it is between these end portions that an elastic tape is directed in line of seam formation and under tension to the needles l5. As best shown in Figure 1, it will be seen that the means for releasing the pressure between the jaws is positioned to one side and clear of the tape engaging means.
On the pivot shaft 18 are slidable collars 88 and 89, best shown in Figure 5. The collars may be adjusted on the shaft 18 to provide between them a passageway for the tape to be stitched by the needles l5. A pin 98 fastened to the collar 88 and slidable in an aperture in the collar 89 is positioned in parallel spaced relation from the shaft 18 and forms a threading aperture 9| for the introduction of the tape into the tape guiding attachment 92. r
The presser-foot |9 has at its front end a turned-up toe 93 provided with needle apertures (not shown). On the upturned toe portion 93 of the presser-foot l9 are slidable members 94 and 95, best shown in Figure 6. The members 94 and 95 may be slidably adjusted on the presser-foot l9 to provide between them a threading guide 96 in alinement with the threading aperture 9| to guide the tape from the delivery end of the tape guiding attachment 92 under the presserfoot IS in properly spaced relation with the needles l5, As shown in Figures 1, 5 and 6, it is to be noted that the tape threading aperture 9| and the tape threading guide 96 are considerably wider than the distance between the needles and that the said aperture and guide are spaced in offset relation with the needles so that only one edge of the tape is directed between the needles.
Screwed upon the needle plate 20 is a hemmer 91 having a scroll providing a curved passageway to fold the margin of a body material in line of scam formation. Both needles I5 penetrate the elastic tape and the body fabric.
The outer face of the threaded member 80 has radial lines and numerals indicating equal divisions forming a dial. The dial 80 may be set by means of a pointer 98 to visually indicate the amount of tension between the arm I2 and the tension element I8. It is thus possible, by setting the dial and controlling the tension, to predetermine the length of the finished waist band and the size of the bloomers.
As shown in Figure '7, there has been provided a tape supply spool I mounted for rotation while supported endwise on a thrust bearing IOI. The bearing is supported on a bracket I02 secured to a stand I03.
A leaf spring I04 extends from the bracket I02 and has a ball-shaped elevation I05 struck-up therefrom and contacting with the lower side disk I06 of the tape supply spool I00. The pressureof the leaf spring I04 against the spool controls the rotation of the spool and prevents spinning. The spring controlled and thrust bearing supported spool slightly tensions the tape during its unwinding and prevents sudden unwinding of the tape I01. I
A bar I08 extends vertically from the sewing machine and carries a tape eyelet I09 at its upper end for receiving the tape from the supply spool.
The self adjustable tape guiding attachment 92 causes a uniform frictional grip on the portion of the elastic tape positioned close to the presserfoot I9 so that while the elastic tape is fed through the sewing machine, it is uniformly stretched between a point close to the front of the presser-foot and a point close to the rear of the presser-foot. The elastic tape is sewed on to the waist band portion of the fabric in a stretched condition. The elastic tape on the finished waist band draws back to its normal length and causes the waist band to be gathered.
To prepare for the stitching operation, the lever I3 is depressed at the thumb engaging portion 85 and an elastic tape is drawn through the tape guiding attachment 92, and inserted under the presser-foot I9 with the roller 26 nipping the end of the tape against the arcuate seat 44. The body material is then inserted into the hemmer 91 and under the tape. The feed dog 2| feeds the body fabric while the roller 26 feeds the elastic tape. The result of the combined action of the upper and lower feeding is that an equal length of fabric and tensioned elastic tape are simultaneously fed through the sewing machine. The pull-feed roller 26 assists in carrying away the stitched work and thereby prevents bunching of the work back of the presser-foot I 9 under the action of the tensioned tape.
As shown in Figure 2, the roller 26 has two peripheral grooves 30 to receive circularly bent roller. The fabric is disengaged from the roller by the guard wires and caused to move in an opposite direction to the circumfei'ence of the roller and continues in a straight line along the line of feeding of the sewing machine.
As shown in Figure 9, the roller 26 may be mounted with the roller shaft 48 secured in a bearing 49. The bearing 49 may be suitably secured in any manner in the work supporting base I0. The shaft 48 may be housed in a sleeve 50 vertically movable in a guideway 52 in the bearing 49 and pressed down against the arcuate seat 44 by the leaf spring 38.
I claim: I
1. In a sewing machine for attaching elastic tape, comprising in combination a head having a tape threading aperture, a work supporting base having a concave and arcuate seat fixed thereto, a toothed pull-feed roller having a plurality of teeth in pressure contact with said arcuate seat and downwardly engaging and feeding a tape across said work supporting base, a four-motion feed member below said work supporting base and upwardly engaging a body fabric in spaced relation from the engagement thereof by said pull-feed roller, a presser-foot downwardly and forcibly engaging the work while it is being fed by said feed members said presser-foot having tape threading means on its front end for guiding a tape thereunder, an edge-folder, a tapeguide having spring-pressed jaws extending to said edge-folder and close to the front of said presser-foot for directing a tape in tensioned condition on top of a marginal fold formed in a body material by said edge-folder, said toothed tape pulling roller being mounted close to the rear of said presser-foot, means for rotating said roller and a vertically disposed and spring-tensioned tape supply spool supported endwise on a thrust bearing for supplying an elastic tape in slightly tensioned condition-to said tension tape guide,
said tape threading aperture and tape-guide and threading means being in alinement and causing said elastic tape to move in a line through porting base and upwardly engaging a body fabric in spaced relation from the engagement thereof by said pull-feed roller, a presser-foot downwardly and forcibly engaging the work while it is being fed by said feed members, said presser-foot having a tape threading means in its front end, an edge-folder, a tape-guide having springpressed jaws extending to said edge-folder and close to the front of said presser-foot for directing a tape in tensioned condition on top of said body material, said toothed tape pulling roller being mounted close to the rear of said presser-foot whereby the stretched length of said tape is reduced to substantially the length of said presserfoot, means for rotating said roller and a vertically disposed and spring-tensioned tape supply spool supported endwise on a thrust bearing for supplying an elastic tape in slightly tensioned condition to said tape guide, said tape threading aperture and tape-guide and threading means being in alinement and causing said elastic tape to move in a line through said sewing machine, said tape threading aperture and threading means being spaced in offset relation with the sewing machine needles so as to cause only one edge portion of the tape to be attached on top of said body material.
3. In a sewing machine for attaching tensioned elastic tape to a body fabric, a two-position tape guide comprising a pivot supported from the head 10 of said sewing machine, a tape threading member slidably mounted on said pivot, springpressed jaws rotatably mounted on said'pivot in spaced relation from said threading member, said jaws having angular extensions, said tape thread- 15 ing member and said angular extensions being jointly designed for guiding a tape in alinement with the line of stitching, and means for adjusting the pressure between said jaws, said jaws being adapted for movement from ;-an operative a position to an out-of-the-way position, said pivot having amember of irregular outline fixed thereon for raising one of said jaws and releasing the tension of said jaws on the tape during motion between said two positions, said jaw teng sion releasing means being positioned to one side and clear of said tape engaging means.
4. In a sewing machine for attaching tensioned elastic tape to a body fabric, a two-positioned tape guide comprising a pivot supported from the 30 head of said sewing machine, spring-pressed jaws rotatably mounted on said pivot, said jaws having angular extensions, said angular extensions being designed for guiding a tape in alinement with the line of stitching, means for adjusting the 35 pressure between said jaw extensions and indicating the amount of tension, said jaws being adapted for movement from an operative position to an out-oI-the-way position, said pivot having a member oi irregular outline fixed thereon for raising one of said jaws and releasing the 5 tension of said jaw extensions on the tape during motion between said two positions, said jaw tension releasing means being positioned to one side and clear of said tape engaging means.
5. In a sewing machine for attaching tensioned elastic tape to a body fabric, a two positioned tape guide comprising a pivot supported from the head of said sewing machine, spring-pressed jaws rotatably mounted on said pivot, said jaws being designed for guiding a tape in alinement with the line of stitching, means for adjusting the pressure between said jaws and indicating the amount of tension, said jaws being adapted for movement from an operative position to an outof-the-way position, said pivot having a member of irregular outline fixed thereon for raising one of said jaws and releasingthe tension of said jaws on the tape during motion between said two positions, said jaw tension releasing means being positioned to one side and clear of said tape engaging means.
6. The invention as defined in claim 2 wherein said roller has peripheral grooves and said roller mounting has circularly bent wires secured thereto, said wires being disposed in said grooves and forming a guard which causes the fabric passing underneath said roller to continue in a straight line along the line of feeding.