Improvement in sweats for hats and caps
US 218220 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
J. BIGELOW. Sweats for Hats and Caps.
No. 218,220. Patented Aug. 5,1879
2 Wmws UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.
JOHN.BIGELOW, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.
IMPROVEMENT IN SWEATS FOR HATS AND CAPS.
Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 218,220, dated August 5, 1879; application filed January 29, 1879.
To all whom it may concern:
Be it known that I, JOHN BIGELOW, of the city and county of Philadelphia, and State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Sweats for Hats or Gaps, of which the following is a specification.
Figure 1 shows the manner in which the work is presented to the machine to be united. Fig. 2 shows the manner in which the attaching-slip and edge of the leather are folded back when ready for use. Fig. 3shows a method of attaching the leather and attaching-slip without the use of spring-reed. Fig. 4 shows appearance of Fig. 3 when folded over for use. Figs. 5 and 6 show second method of attach ing the leather and attaching-slips by straight or zigzag sewing. Fig. 7 shows the appearance of the prepared sweat without the flare, without the attaching-slip folded back so as to cover edge of the leather. Fig. 8 shows another method of folding back without havin g the attaching-slip cover edge of the leather.
The object of this invention is produced by mechanical means, prepared sweat leathers for hats and caps, made independent of the same, and afterward to be attached by a tacking-slip, said tacking-slip being united to the leather at a short distance from its edge by either straight or zigzag sewing in such a manner that when ready for use the sewing and edges of the leather shall be concealed; again, the preparation of a prepared sweat leather without the use of a spring-reed.
The state of the art previous to my Letters Patent of January 1, 18Z, is fully set forth therein, since which time hand-sewing is being rapidly superseded by the method therein described.
In the drawings, Fig. 1, Ais the sweat-leather. B is the attaching-slip of oil-cloth, or in any suiflable material, and C is the spring rod or ree The attachin g-slip is folded around the sprin g rod or reed, and laid sufficiently over the edge of the leather to allow the two being united by either zigzag or straight machinestitches, which pass down close to the reed C, but through the attaching-slip, and a short dis tance within the edge of the leather A. The
parts of the prepared sweat-leather having been thus united, the attaching-slip is brought around parallel with the back face of the leather, thus folding the edge of the leather back upon itself, and concealing the stitches completely on the upper or outer side, Fig. 2.
Fig. 3 is made by lapping the leather over the attaching-slip, and stitching within and without the edge of the leather, but each time through the attaching-slip. By feeding acord, D, along the edge of the leather and allowing it to be secured by the stitching, as described, when the attaching-slip is folded back, as in Fig. 4, the cord can be used to secure the leather to the hat-body, and is especially adapted to stiff or silk hats.
Figs. 5 and 6 show still another method of preparingaleather without the reed, still using an oil-cloth in combination, while Figs. 7 and 8 show the Figs. 5 and 6 respectively folded back for use with the stitching covered from sight.
For silk hats the leather can be attached to the cassimere lining, as is shown in Fig. 3, the cassimere taking the place of the attachingslip B. Instead of using either attachingslip or reed certain classes of goods will require the leather alone. This can be overedge seamed by an overseaming-machine, such as the American button-hole, Goodes, or the Blanchard. In the former two the thread is woven in such a manner that it can be used for tacking the leather to the hat with long stitches. With the Blanchard a cord might be attached by the sewing, which would cover the edge of the leather, and furnish a hold for the tacking-stitches.
The edge of the leather can be flared if desired, so as to project slightly over the brim of the hat.
The leather as prepared in Figs. 1, 5, and 6 can be attached to the hat by long tackingstitches through the hat-body and its attaching-slip. While the stitches are concealed and the oil-cloth is used perspiration cannot reach the hat-body.
I do not claim the use of oil-cloth or perspirationproot' lining for the sweat-leather, nor the making of a prepared sweat by mechau ical means, nor a prepared sweat with a flared edge, since my patent of January 1, 1878, de scribes all of these; but
What I do claim to have invented, and de sire to secure by Letters Patent, is-
1. A sweat for hats or caps of any kind,
having a cord, reed, or spring-rod attached to the body of the sweat or band by means of a covering lapping over the reed, and secured to the band by a row of stitches passing through the lapped portion of the covering and through the band at a distance from its edges, substantially as shown and described.
2. A sweat for bats and caps composed of a band of leather, or other equivalent soft material, and a lining of oil-silk, or other suitable material, said lining being secured to the band by a row of stitches, and provided with at'lap adapted to be folded over the row of stitches and protect the body of the hat or cap against the perspiration which may follow the threads composing the stitches, substantially as described.
3. A sweat-leather prepared by machinestitching with a suitable attaching-slip of a water-proof or other suitable material, but without the use of a reed or hatters varnish, substantially as described and set forth.
4. A sweat-leather with eithera water-proof or other lininginaterial, haviugits parts united by over-edge stitch, substantially as described.
5. A sweat-leather with or Without a waterproof lining, but having an attaching-cord united to its edge by an overstitch, substantially as described.
In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my own 1 aflix my signature in presence of two witnesses.
Witnesses AMos W. PAGE, HENRY N. LYON.