US 2231436 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
Feb. 11, 1941. D. J. CIERI ADJUSTABLE PATTERN Filed June 18, 1938 3nventor DOM/NICK J 675m JM'AZML Gttomeg Patented Feb. 11, 1941 ETENT OFFECE 3 Claims.
This invention relates to apattern for the cutting of garments and is particularly intended to provide a pattern which is adjustable to different sizes of forms, and a novel method whereby garments may be pre-fitted by the use of such patterns.
The primary object of the invention is to provide a pattern which is made in the form of a loose fitting garment, which may be fitted to a w person and then used for determining the size and shape of the various sections that are to be out for making up the garment.
Another object of the invention is to provide such a pattern which may be used for fitting 5 various sizes of garments and to obtain all of the sizes necessary for cutting a garment to fit a particular form in a minimum amount of time.
A further object of the invention is to provide a method having novel advantages over methods heretofore used in the cutting of garments.
Further objects and advantages of my invention may be clearly understood from the follow- 25 ing description and from the accompanying drawing in which:
Figure 1 is a front view, in elevation, illustrating my improved adjustable pattern and the manner in which it is used.
30 Figure 2 is a back View of the same also in elevation.
Figure 3 is a plan view showing the sections forming one-half of my improved adjustable pattern.
35 Figure 4 is a plan view, in elevation, illustrating the manner in which the sections of my improved pattern are used in the cutting of a piece of material.
Figures 5 and 6 are plan views, in elevation,
40 illustrating templates which are used in connection with my adjustable pattern for obtaining the neck and arm sizes of a garment.
Figure '7 is a front View in elevation, illustrating my adjustable pattern and templates and the 45 manner in which they are used.
As illustrated in the drawing, the numeral 5 denotes my improved adjustable pattern as made for the coat of a garment. The said pattern comprises front sections 6 and I, side sections 8, 9,
50 I and II, and back sections I2 and I3.
The said sections are joined together by means of separable fasteners Id, of a suitable type, whereby they may be joined together to form the complete pattern and separated from each other 55 when desired. Each of said fasteners is provided with a stripper I5, of well known construction, which is commonly used in such devices.
All of the sections above mentioned are first joined together by means of the separable fasteners I 4 to form a loose fitting coat as illus- 5- trated in Figures 1 and 2. The shoulders of the said coat are fastened together by means of snap fasteners, indicated at I6, and downwardly hanging strips I! are provided at the centers of the front, back and sides of the said coat. These strips are divided longitudinally by the fasteners M which extend for the full length thereof.
As illustrated in Figure 3 of the drawing, each of the sections forming the pattern are lined with lines I8 for the purpose to be hereinafter de- 15.
The arm size template, illustrated in Figure 5, consists of two sections I9 and which are formed in the shape of an arm opening and adjustably secured. together by means of adjusting 20 nuts, indicated at ZI and 22, which are threaded to screws extending through the slots 23 and 24 to provide means whereby the said template may be adjusted to various sizes of arm openings.
The neck size template, illustrated in Figure 6, 25 consists preferably of four of the sections 25, which are secured by means of adjusting nuts 26 having screws threaded thereto which extend through a slot 21 in each of said sections. When the said sections are joined together they form a 30 template in the shape of a neck opening.
In the use of my improved pattern, all of the sections are first joined together by means of the separable fasteners I4 and the snap fasteners It to provide a loose fitting pattern in the form of a garment such as the coat illustrated. The said pattern is then applied over the person for Whom a garment is to be cut, and fitted by folding the different sections of the pattern, as indicated at 28, and pinning the said folds with pins 29 until the proper fit is obtained.
After the pattern has been adjusted to the fit which is desired of the garment that is to be out thereto, it is stripped apart, into the different sections forming the same, by separating the separable fasteners by means of the strippers I5, so that the said sections will each provide a separate pattern for each section which is to be cut for the garment.
As illustrated in Figure 4, a section with the folds 28 pinned thereon is laid upon a sheet of material 30 from which a section, conforming with the pattern section, is to be cut. This sheet of material 30 may be either a sheet of paper for cutting a finished pattern therefrom, or a sheetof textile material from which a garment is to be cut. The edges of the said pattern section are traced on the said sheet and then the pattern section is removed therefrom leaving an outline indicating the sewing lines for the garment section which is to be cut from the sheet 3|]. The said sheet is then cut at a suitable distance from the said sewing lines to leave sufficient material for forming the seams.
It Will, therefore, be seen that when my improved pattern is separated into sections, each of the sections will leave a complete pattern of the proper form and size for each section needed to cut a new garment and that the periphery of the said section will indicate exactly the lines on which the garment sections are to be sewn.
In order to obtain the desired length for the garment, marks such as indicated at 3i are applied on the strips l1. When the said pattern is being used for outlining the garment section which is to be cut, a line is located from the said point 3! on the strip thereof and applied on the sheet of material 30 as indicated by the dotted line 32. This will give the correct length for each section that is to be cut for the garment. If desired, the lengths may be also obtained by measurements from the bottom edge of' the adjustable pattern while it is being adjusted.
In order that the garment section may be cut with the warp of the material 30 running in the correct direction to correspond with the warp in the material of the pattern which as it was fitted to the person, I have provided the lines 18 which are disposed vertically on the pattern, or longitudinally upon each section thereof. When the section is being used as a pattern as, illustrated in Figure 4, the said lines l8 on the pattern are placed so that they will run parallel with the lines 33 on the sheet 30. After a garment section has been cut to the said pattern, with the warp of the textile material running in the same direction as the lines 33, and sewn into a garment, the said warp will run in the same direction as the warp in the pattern did when it was fitted and, thereby, insure that the finished garment will fit in the same manner that the pattern was fitted tothe form of the person.
The lines l8 on the pattern will also visibly aid in properly distributing the adjustments of the pattern 5 so as to avoid pulling in the material thereof. To facilitate the procurement of the proper sizes for the arm opening of the garment, the temp-late illustrated in Figure 5 is slipped on over the arm of the person and adjusted into a properly fitting position upon the pattern, adjacent the arm opening therein, as clearly illustrated in Figure 7. The pattern is then marked, along the periphery of the said template, with a chalk line 34, after which the said template is removed.
The collar size template, illustrated in Figure 6,
is then applied around the neck of the person, as clearly illustrated in Figure '7, adjusted into the proper fit and used in the same manner as the template for the arm size.
When the pattern section is to be cut from the sheet of material 30, a line 36 is drawn for the arm size, at a distance from the line 34 to compensate for the width of the template sections and the same procedure is followed for neck size on the respective pattern sections.
From the above description it will be clearly understood that I have provided, by my invention, a novel adjustable pattern whereby pattern sections of the correct size and form may be obtained by actually fitting the pattern to the form before using the same, in sections, as patterns for cutting a material from which a garment is to be made.
By means of my improved adjustable pattern and the novel method of procuring the pattern sizes, the operation of accurately fitting a garment and the time required for such operation is greatly reduced. Furthermore, a garment may, in effect, be fitted to a person before it is even cut from the material from which it is to be made; this being effected by the novel method of fitting my improved pattern directly upon the person by means of folding the said pattern as necessary to obtain the fit desired and then retaining the patterns as adjusted by said folding until after the textile material, or a finished pattern, ,has been cut therefrom.
It is to be understood that while I have illustrated and described my invention as embodied in a pattern for coats or the like, the said invention may also be applied in patterns for other garments such as skirts, pants and the like, without departing from the scope of the invention as set forth in the appended claims.
1. In combination with a pattern in the form of a garment, a template adapted to be positioned around the arm of a person and against said pattern for defining a line on said pattern to indicate a line of cut and means for adjusting said template to properly fit said arm.
2. In combination with a pattern of the character described, a template adapted to be fitted around the neck of a person and against said pattern for defining a line on said pattern to indicate a line of cut and means for adjusting said template to properly fit the neck.
3. For a pattern of the character described, means for defining a line on said pattern to indicate the fit around the neck and arm of a person, said means comprising a template including a plurality of curved strip sections joined together by adjustable means and forming a concaved ring shaped member adapted to fit the surface of the body of a person adjacent to the neck and arms.
DOMINICK J. CIERI.