US 2242665 A
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Description (OCR text may contain errors)
May 20, 1941. H. c. UNDERWOOD arm. 2,242,665
GARMENT TRIMMING AND TURNING APPARATUS Filed Oct. 20, 1939 /5 5 /5 Z9 Z9 .3/ 5/ i m 5/ 52 1 "52 AZ? f. 2.9
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4/ 45 J 4% a g I. 0 1mm 45 INVENTORS HOWARD O. fl/vospwooo' ATTORNEY.
Patented May 20, 1941 GARMENT TRIMMING AND TURNING APPARATUS Howard C. Underwood, Flushing, and Edward B.
Roby, New York, N. X, assignors to Phillips- Jones Corporation, Newyork, N, a corporation of New York Application October 20, 1939, Serial No. 300,344
This invention relates to improvements in garment trimming and turning apparatus, and more particularly pointed corners in garments having twoor more plies of material, such as collars, cuffs, bands, lapels, flaps and kindred products.
Objects Among the principal objects which the present invention has in view arez-to provide means whereby excess material at the corners of garments may be trimmed; to provide means whereby the trimmed corners of garments may be turned right side out; to provide an apparatus having means to retain a garment in place while the excess material at the corner thereof is being trimmed; to provide anapparatus having means for receiving a garment after a corner thereof has been trimmed and to receive the same right side out for producing a pointed corner; to utilize adjustable means for aligning the several means .used for the trimming and turning of the garment; to insure properly shaped corners in conjunction With the elimination of excess material; to secure simplicity of construction and operation; and to obtain other advantages and results as may be brought out in the following descriptlon.
Drawing Figure 1 is a side elevation of our improved apparatus embodying the invention;
Figure 2 is an enlarged front elevation of a portion of the apparatus; and
Figure 3 is a perspective view of a portion of the apparatus showing mechanism utilized for bringing a garment upwardly to be trimmed and for receiving the trimmed garment right side out.
Description Asseen in the drawing and illustrated in the several views, the reference numeral l indicates our apparatus having a base II, and a standard able position, that of trimming excess material from a garment. It is to be here noted that the cutters on the pressure die overlie the fixed die with the cushioning member engaging the top of said fixed die when in lowered position. Also, it
may be stated at this time that the present invention is an improvement of Patent No. 1,965,968 of July 10, 1934.
As here shown, operation of the pressure die I1 and the cutters I8, I8 is obtained by means of a foot treadle 20 connected by a link 2! to a second class lever 22, an intermediate part of which engages the upper end of the plunger l4. Link 2| attaches to one end of this lever 22, whereas theother end is fulcrumed as at 23 in a bracket 24 forming part of the head H of the apparatus. Preferably lever 22 provides a long arm between the plunger l4 and connection with link 2|, and provides a short arm between the plunger and the fulcrum 23, so that a moderate pressure exerted by the operator may apply a considerable pressure to the plunger and pressure die H. To insure return of the plunger M to its uppermost position and out of engagement with the work performed, a strong coil spring 25 may be suitably attached at one end to the standard l2 and at its other end fastened to the treadle 20. In the head I3 the plunger M as shown extends with full diameter only part way down, below which it is reduced in diameter forming a downwardly facing shoulder 26 shown in dotted lines (Figure 1) and at said reduced portion a spring 21 engages said shoulder 26. Spring 21 also. exerts a releasing pressure oppositely to the pressure exerted by the operator when depressing the treadle. This spring 2'! may be relied upon to also lift the treadle, if so desired, and spring 25 omitted. To the lower end or, reduced portion of the plunger is suitably attached the pressure die-l1 and cutters l8, l8 as by an adjustable set screw 28.
The fixed die IS in the present showing provides an upper flat surface which slopes forwardly downward and has its edge shaped to cooperate with the pair of cutters I8, I 8 so as to shear or trim excessmaterial projecting over the converging rear edges of said die. The die is shown pointed toward the rear, thus providing said converging edges which meet in a point and constitute the cutting edges 29, 29. It is these edges 29, 29 which cooperate with the cutters l8, 18, it being noted that the intersection of said edges is at an uppermost point of the die as well as a point most rearward of the die. This fixed die 16, in order to cooperate with other working parts of the apparatus, may be adjusted to be set either more to the frontor rear of the bed I5 as by a bolt 30 extending upwardly from the bottom of the bed, the bed being slotted for that purpose and the threaded hole for the bolt being shown as opening through the uppermost part of the said die.
The cutters l8, l8 are upright blades disposed at an angle to each other equal to the projected angle of the diverging rear edges 29, 29 of the fixed die I6 whereby lowering the cutters will cause them to have a shearing contact with the said edges of the lower or fixed die. The edges of the cutters l3, I8 which pass the cutting edges 29, 29 of the fixed die are preferably horizontal so the cutting action operates progressively from the rear and uppermost point of the fixed die.
It will be appreciated that when the cutters l8, l8 are in operation, a certain amount of vibration takes place during the lowering and raising of the plunger M. In order to overcome the vibration, we have secured to the bed I a pair of vertically disposed uprights or guideways 3|, 3| to the rear of the fixed die I6, pressure die H and cutters l8, [8 of substantially the same angular disposition as the cutters and shearing edges 29, 29 of the fixed die and secured to the bed by bolts 32, 32. It is preferable that the said uprights or guideways extend upwardly a sufficient distance and beyond the cutters l8, l8 so as to act as a guard as well as guideways during cutting operation.
Below the fixed die l6 and preferably pivoted with respect to bed I5, is a template 33 for receiving and holding the garment to be trimmed during the trimming operation. This template is shown as of hook-like formation with its forward end pointed and adapted to be swung into substantial juxtaposition upon the upper face of fixed die l6 with the point of the template and point of the die substantially coinciding. Intermediate of the length of the template is a handle 34 by which the operator may raise andlower the same. At the rear end portion of the template are laterally extending trunnions 35 aligned with and rotatably supported by adjustable bolts 36 passing through lugs 31 shown integrally formed and projecting forwardly from the vertical portion of bed l5. Adjustment of bolts 36 enables the template to be moved sidewise to properly adjusted position for bringing the points of the template and die into registration. Upward swinging of the template is adjustably limited by an adjustable stop here shown as a set screw 38 projecting downwardly toward the template through a lug 39 also shown integrally formed with and projecting forwardly from the vertical portion of bed 15. The operator places the garment to be trimmed upon the template when in a lowered position such as shown in Figure l, the garment at that time preferably being wrong side out. The template is then swung upwardly to the position shown in Figure 3, thereby properly placing the garment upon fixed die I6. With the garment thus held, treadle is operated and sponge rubber I9 comes in contact with the garment and presses the same securely upon the die holding it while cutters I3, [8 proceed to shear the margins of the garment protruding upon cutting edges 29 of the fixed die. The sponge [9 has been omitted from the lower end of die I! in plate and that the plies of material are secured together by converging lines of stitching which lie upon the sloping face of the fixed die so as not to be severed when the edges of the material are trimmed. Therefore, after the trimming is completed the garment is still carried upon the template.
In order to enable the operator to turn the garment right-side out and fully protrude the point of material, we provide a turning andshaping template 4!], the upper end of which is pointed, and mounted so that the point of the twotemplates 33 and 40 may be brought into substantial contact when the two templates are moved to their lowermost positions, as shown in Figure 1. It will accordingly be observed that we provide template 40 in the form of a first class lever having laterally projecting trunnions 4| intermediate of its length, said trunnions being pivot-ally and adjustably supported by alined bolts 42 which extend inwardly toward the ends of the trunnions through a bracket 43 integral with and extending forwardly from the vertical portion of bed [5. By proper adjustment of bolts 42, the template may be adjusted laterally for exact positioning of its point to contact the point of the other template. Upward movement of the shaping template 40 is limited by contact of the lower arm thereof with a stop 44 and forward movement to the point contacting position is limited by an adjustable means such as set screw 45. This set screw extends upwardly through a lug 46 here shown as part of bracket 43. The lower forward end of the lower arm of template 40 is connected by a link 41 to a treadle 48. The treadle and template are normally held raised by a suitable spring 49. After the trimming operation above described has been completed, the operator swings the trimming template 33 to its lowered position, it preferably also engaging stop 44, and then the operator depresses treadle 48 thereby bringing the turning and shaping template 40 to its most forward position where its point contacts the point of the other template. While the templates are in this position of contacting points, the operator reverses the garment from the one template to the other, the point of the tuning and shaping template insuring that the point of the garment will be protruded and present a sharp point in its turned condition. As the operator then releases the depression of treadle 48, the garment is pulley off of the turning and shaping template as the said template returns to its retracted or idle position shown in Figure 3. The machine is then in position for the operator to apply another garment to be trimmed, turned and shaped, to the trimming template 33.
1. An apparatus as characterized, having a die for trimming a. garment, a swinging template for receiving the garment thereover with edges of the garment to be trimmed protruding laterally from the template, said template being movable into juxtaposition with respect to said die for holding the garment upon the said die for trimming purposes, and a second swinging template movable substantially into endwise contact with the first said template for enabling the garment to be reversed in passing from one to the other, adjustable means for limiting upward movement of said first template, and means for limiting downward movement of said second template,
2. An apparatus as characterized, having a die for trimming a garment, a hook-like template for receiving the garment thereover with edges of the garment to be trimmed protruding laterally from the template, said template having means for swinging it upwardly and being movable into juxtaposition with respect to said die for holding the garment upon the said die for trimming purposes, and a second template, both said templates being pointed and pivotally mounted with the points in substantial engagement with each other at one position of the said templates and out of contact at other positions thereof, and a stop for limiting upward swinging movement of said first template whereby when the said second template is in its uppermost position each said template will be out of engagement with the other,
3. An apparatus as characterized comprising a standard having a die for trimming a garment, a hook-like template having a pointed end for receiving the garment thereover with the wrong side out with the edges of the garment to be trimmed protruding laterally from vthe template, said template having means approximately midway and extending laterally thereof adapted for swinging it upwardly into juxtaposition with respect to said die for holding the garment upon the said die for trimming purposes, means for ad-justably supporting said template and adapted to shift the template to a lateral position with respect to the die, a second template pivotally mounted to the standard, said second template having a pointed end adapted to engage the point of the pointed end of the first said template at one position of the said templates and out of engagement at other positions thereof, and a stop for limiting upward movement of said second template whereby when swinging the said first template to its uppermost position it will clear the point of the said second template.
HOWARD C. UNDERWOOD. EDWARD B. ROBY.