US 2347578 A
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April 25, 1944. H, RoHEg 2,347,578
METHOD OF MANUFACTURE OF GARMENTS Filed Nov. 23, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR flkrzyfiaer Am 25, 1944. H. ROHER 2,347,578
METHOD OF MANUFAQTURE OF GARMENTS Filed Nov. 25, 1942 2 Sheets- Sheet 2 IN VEN TOR Patented Apr. 25, 1944 UNITED STATES ATENT OFFICE METHOD OF MANUFACTURE OF GARMENTS Harry Roher, Brooklyn, N. Y.
Application November 23, 1942, Serial No. 466,690
My invention relates to a method of making a placket, said placket minimizing the need for buttons, Zippers or like means for the closure of said placket.
The method comprising the invention furthermore eliminates labor to a considerable degree in the construction of said placket, making it possible to obviate several operations heretofore necessary for the completion of a placket arrangement.
An object of my invention is to construct a placket pliably adaptable to the human figure, said placket providing free movement whereby the hip dimensions of the garment having said plackets are made to automatically adjust themselves to the dimensions of said hip in conformity to the different positions assumed by the wearer of said garment. Ordinarily, the placket of the garment has -a tendency to open when the wearer is in a sitting position, due to the pull caused by the increased dimensions of the hip of the wearer while in a sitting or squat position. In the instant invention this tendency to expose an opening at the placket portion of said garment is eliminated.
A further object of my invention is to intro: duce a simple method of manufacture whereby a much lower cost of manufacture is effected, and a greater speed in production of the garments is obtained.
Another object of my invention is to obviate any necessity for finish, hand sewing or zipper insertions, or the use of other fastening means or securing means which would call for the utilization of metals or synthetic items now difficult to obtain because of the present war exigency.
In further description of my invention, attention is called to the drawings included in this specification in which:
Fig. 1 is an outline of a gore showing the novel cut thereof which makes the present invention possible.
Fig. 2 shows the gore as illustrated in Fig. 1 doubled up and in readiness for further operation.
Fig. 3 shows the doubled up gore, joined on the inner lines of its perimeter and turned inside out, with the unstitched free ends of said gore now ready to be joined to the remaining half of the skirt.
Fig. 4.- shows a half portion of my novel back extended at one end beyond the usual width requirements of the conventional back; in other words, extending beyond the regulation width provided for side seaming of the conventional back. I
Fig. 5 shows a half front placed superimposingly upon a left half back and stitched together partially underarm, said joining being interrupted about three inches below underarm, leaving thereby the lower front portion free for movement.
Fig. 6 shows the stitched together half front and half back as illustrated in Fig. 5; it now being shown also stitched together to the skirt gore which is illustrated in Fig. 3, said gore now being shown in unfolded position; the broken through portion of Fig. 6, moreover, showing the extended back portion as secured half ways to the upper end of the gore portion C shown in Fig. 1.
Fig. 7 is another View of Fig. 6 in closed position without broken lines.
Fig. 8 is a view of Fig. '7 with the placket member in opened position.
Fig. 9 is a fragmentary view of the skirt member of a garment showing the placket in opened position with a fragmentary section of the waist portion of the garment attached thereto.
Referring to Fig. 1, the portions A and B have an integral portion C placed between them. The object of having these portions to consist of a single unit is, first, to obviate superfluous operations in stitching; second, to maintain the opposite gores A and B in perfectly and and in evenly conforming positions, thereby avoiding the possibility of the gores aforesaid from being assembled in an unevenly matched position.
While I illustrate my invention by showing the gores, A and B integrally a single unit in combination with C, it will be understood that this unit can be cut separately into portions thereof and joined in the manner illustrated in Fig. 1. Care, however, must be taken that the relative portions comprising said separately cut portions be in an evenly balanced position accurately matching when seamed.
In Fig. 2, there will be seen the folded portions A, B and C in position ready for stitching. I stitch these folded up gores at line ll-H) and line I2-I3. Next, I turn back the two stitched gores in the opposite direction and join the respective free upper ends of the gores, line IEi-l 5 and line Iii-I4 to the respective free ends of the doubled portion C, line Ill-24 and line Ill-23, shown in Fig. 2. Fig. 3 illustrates a thus completed half skirt.
Now, it can be seen that I have produced a half skirt of a garment ready to be assembled to the opposite half of a skirt by joining the half skirt to the free lines l6 to I? and lines E8 to 20.
When joining the opposite gores as above described to the gores herein illustrated as in Fig. 2, namely, portions A, B and C, I use, at option, any opposite conventional gore consisting of one or several pieces. It will be understood, however,,that the opposite gore may also be a like gore of my invention, namely, like, A, B and C. In such case, I would be forming thereby a skirt member of a garment having two plackets, one at each side of the garment.
The double placket arrangements would naturally respond with greater freedom to the body movement of the wearer and would tend to give the hip member thereof a flexible conformingly freer action, than would a single placket.
Fig. 4 of my novel garment illustrates a half back D, said back being extended at its left side or the side at which it is desired to form the placket. Care must be taken that the extended portion E must be in dimensions on line 22-2l no more than half of the line 2324 illustrated in Fig. 1.
The upper portion of extension E is conformingly shaped at underarm in compliance with the required measurements of the necessary dimensions of its afiinity half front.
Fig. shows the conforming half front placed super-imposingly onto the back and stitched together at lines 25-26 and 25-2l. It will now be seen that the interrupted stitch at 26 leaves the front free at side below 26 to form the upper portion of my novel placket.
Fig. 6 shows my half back and half front as shown in Fig. 5 stitched to the unfolded two half gores shown in Fig. 3, the broken portion illustrating the inner structure of the placket in folded up position with lines 2i-22 secured by stitching to the half portion of the folded inner placket, leaving thereby the free remaining half of line i528 as shown in Fig. 3. The half front member of the garment on lines 253-39 shown in Fig. 5 is then attached to the upper end of gore shown in Fig. 3 on line i5i8. The designation 3! in Fig. 6 shows the stitching; 32 designates the placket opening; 33 designates the overlap portion; 34 designates the button; 35 designates the buttonhole; F is the front portion of the waist.
I now have joined up a half front and half back to two half gores, and the center portion of Fig. 6 illustrates the placket when the garment is in closed position.
It will be noticed in Fig. 6 that I use but a single button for the closing of the entire side, but while I illustratea button, a snap fastener, a hook and eye, or any other means for the retention of the side portion in closed position can be employed equally as well.
The underlay E is shown in Fig. 4 as of one piece with my half back, but if it becomes more convenient to mark in separate pieces, then such pieces could be of separate but conformingly matching units, to be seamed together into one piece. Now, the underlay E plus the disengaged portion of the inner fold form a self regulating placket, held taut but by a single button and the retention in the seams as indicated and act ing freely in accordance with the required movements of the human figure.
t will be see in Fig. 8 that the shoulder arm can easily slip through the disengaged opening as illustrated in said figure, but the opening can be made larger by interrupting the stitching on line 25-26 as shown in Fig. 5 at a higher point than point 26 and nearer to the armhole.
I have now illustrated the method for making a free movement placket for a garment, which placket when placed on both sides of the garment would give the wearer greater freedom of movement at all postures and at the same time keep the garment from riding up and down when the hips are expanded or contracted due to the body position of the wearer thus avoiding the tension on the sides of the garment and also adding thereby to the wearers comfort, as well as assuring a greater durability around the side seams of the garment, eliminating labor in the finishing and hand sewing, and obviating the consequent need of metallic and plastic contrivances ordinarily required for the closure of a garment, such materials as stated being difficult to obtain during the present war emergency period.
While I am showing as before stated the garment placket, it is also understood that the omission of the waist member portion of the garment obviates the need of the upper structural detail and tends to greater simplicity and manufacture.
Now, having described my invention, what I claim is the following:
1. In a method for forming a placket in a garment, said garment having two gore portions with an integral insert therebetween, and having an extensio at one side of the back of the waist member of said garment, and which consists in folding said gore portions and the insert integral therewith, and stitching one side of said doubled portion of the-insert to the extended side of said waist member of said garment at the relative adjacent ends thereof, the other end portion of the doubled integral insert remaining free, also stitching the mating front waist member of said garment to the adjacent skirt gore member of said garment at their relative adjacent ends, forming thereby a placket with a free end for spreading space for head and arm passage and a free opening and free closing of said placket.
2. In a method for forming a placket in a garment which consists in extending one side of the back of a Waist member of said garment and inserting an intervening piece inbetween the mating sides of two gores of said garment, doubling said gores and the intervening piece therebetween upon each other, and stitching one side of said intervening doubled insert to the extended side of the back. portion of the waist member of said garment at the relative adjacent ends thereof, and stitching the other side of said doubled gore portion to the mating front waist member of said garment at the relative adjacent ends thereof, leaving the second half of the doubled inbetween intervening insert free at the upper end thereof, forming thereby an opening for spreading space when receiving the wearers arm and shoulder as well as for free closing and opening means for said placket, in the garment aforesaid.
3. In a method for the forming of a garment with a placket therebetween, which method consists in doubling two skirt gores and an intervening insert, and forming an extension at the side of the back of said garment, the end of said extended back portion being stitched to the adjacent portion of the doubled placket piece of said garment, and the upper end of said extended back portion being secured at the armhole of said garment, the end of the mating side of the front waist member of said garment being stitched to the adjacent end of the second half of the doubled skirt gore member of said garment having thereby the upper end of the second half of the doubled placket piece of said garment free for spreading and forming thereby free closing and opening means for said placket in the garment aforesaid.
4. In a method of forming a garment from a pattern having two gore skirt portions with an insert therebetween to form a placket, which method consists in doubling said gore portions and insert therebetween upon each other, stitching said gore portions at the mating ends, thereby forming a half skirt, turning said half skirt inside out and thereupon joining the same with a like half skirt, forming thereby a skirt member of said garment with skirt placket means joining said skirt member of the garment to the relatively adjacent waist member thereof, said waist member having an extended piece attached to its back portion, said placket thereby forming a natural closing and opening means for the garment.
5. In a method for forming plackets in a garment which consists in extending two sides of a back of the waist member of said garment and inserting intervening pieces inbetween the sides of the mating gores on both sides of said garment, then doubling said gores and the intervening pieces therebetween upo each other and stitching one side of each of said double intervening piece of said garment to the extended sides of the back portions of the waist member of said garment at its relative adjacent ends thereof, and also stitching the other sides of said doubled gore portions to the mating sides of the front waist member portions of said garment at its relative adjacent ends thereof, leaving thereby the second halves of the doubled inbetween inserts free, and forming thereby a free means for opening and closing of said plackets at each side of the garment aforesaid.
6. In a method for forming a garment from a pattern having two skirt gore portions with an insert therebetween and integral therewith, a waist member adjacent thereto and a placket inbetween; said method consisting in folding said gore portions and said insert, and joining said gore portions at their adjacent mating sides, stitching the upper end portion of one half of said doubled insert to the adjacent lower end of the extended portion of the waist member of the garment forming a free closing means for placket of said garment, and having a free portion at the other upper end of said insert thereby providing space for head and shoulder passage.