US 2548823 A
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April 10, 1951 w. RosENTHAL DECOLLETE BRAssIERE Filed July 2, 1948 w/L L /A M @OSEA/THA L .4 TTOQNEY Patented Apr. 10, 1951 DCOLLET BRAssIRE William Rosenthal, Bayville, N. Y., assigner t Maiden Form Brassiere Co., Inc., New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application July 2, 1948, Serial N o. 36,622
The present invention relates to improvements in brassires and more particularly to brassires of a dcollet type, that is adapted to be worn with dresses of the low-cut or dcollet type used principally for evening wear, and also with dresses having plunging necklines.
An important object of the invention is to provide a novel and advantageous form of brassiere.
Another object of the invention is to provide a novel and advantageous type of brassire adapted to prevent the breasts of a wearer from Slipping out of the breast pockets of the brassire.
Another object of the invention is to provide a novel and advantageous form of brassire adapted for wear ,under dcollet or low cut gowns. Y
Still another object of the invention is to provide a novel and advantageous dcollet brassire of inelastic material so constructed that when placed on a wearer, the breasts will be lifted upwardly and outwardly from a low cut Central portion and the inner edges of the pockets will be drawn against the chest of the wearer to prevent escape of the breasts into the gap between the breast pockets.
A further object of the invention is to provide a novel and advantageous brassire of which the front is of inelastic material and shaping is provided for by gathering the fabric at certain parts.
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the brassire is made of inelastic material except for short elastc parts or straps at the back equipped with suitable fastening devices, such as hooks and eyes. At the lower edge of the front of the brassire is a band which extends across the front of the body of the wearer and together with said front is connected to pieces which extend around the sides of the body, and partly across the back where their ends are connected together by means of the elastic back members or straps. From the middle point of said band, the inner edges of the breast pocket portions diverge upwardly to points at which vare attached the forward ends of shoulder straps whose rearward ends are attached to the rear ends of the inelastic parts of the brassire. Just at the outside of each of the breast pocket sections is a stifener' extending from the lower edge to the upper edge of the brassire.
Breast pockets of low cut brassires in general use have no suitable provisions for keeping the breasts from working out of the breast pockets at the inner edges thereof. According to the present invention, the breasts are urged upwardly and outwardly by gathering the fabric in folds extending upwardly and outwardly from upwardly and inwardly inclined lines extending from the part of the brassire beneath the pockets to the inner edges of said pockets. The gathered or that the purpose of the invention is served shirred material is held against extension. along these lines but may expand above the same. This expansion is accompanied by upward and outward pressure against the breasts.
Preferably the gathered effect is obtained by setting in a triangular shaping piece in the angle between the bottom of the brassire and the inner edge of a pocket. The gathered material of the breast pocket material is secured to the adjacent edge of the triangular piece. It is found particularly well by this arrangement. Other objects, features and advantages .will appear upon consideration of the following de.- tailed description and of the drawings, in which:
Fig. 1 is a perspective view illustrating a brassire embodying the present invention, as it appears on a wearer; v
Fig. 2 is a view in rear elevation of the brassire as extended, and partially broken away'nto show underlying structure; Y
Fig. 3 is a larger scale view of a part ofl Fig. 1 illustrating details more clearly and partially broken away to show underlying structure; Y
Fig. 4 is a section taken along the line 4--4 of Fig. 3;
Fig. 5 is la section taken along the line 5-5 of Fig. 3; and
Fig. 6 is a view illustrating the triangular in sert attached to the lower and inner edge ofa breast pocket.
The drawings disclose a brassire embodying the present invention. As best shown in Figs. l and 2, the brassire comprises a right portion It) `and a left portion Illa which -are symmetrically arranged on the opposite sides of a center line (not shown), the only exception to this symmetry residing in the different forms (right and left) of back straps II and I Ia. Said right backstrap II comprises an elastic portion and a shorter inelastic portion provided at its inner face with fastening means such as a hook I 2, and said left backstrap I I a comprises an elastic portion and an outer inelastic portion having at its outer face fastening means such as a plurality of eyes IZa. The right portion I t! of the brassire comprises a breast pocket I3 including a piece I4 of fabric at the top of the pocket and a lower piece I5 of fabric which extends around the front and sides of the breast of a wearer as well as beneath the same. The top piece I4 is four-sided or quadrilateral in shape and the two lower sides thereof are secured to the upper edge of piece I5, said upper edge being so :shaped as to provide a forward projection of the pocket I3 with a point I6 at the vertex of the angle between the two lower sides or edges of the piece I4. Preferably pieces I4 and I5 are connected by openwork stitchings. At its outer or right edge said piece or member I5 is stitched to the adjacent edge of an inelastic fabric piece or member I'I. At the seam thus formed the edges are turned to the rear so that at the front the piece H overlies the piece I5. A covered stiiening member i8 is placed over the rear turned edges and secured in positionby a strip of wide tape 33, fastened by lines of stitching I9. 1
Said fabric member l1 .gradually decreases in height from its inner end to-a point wjhereit is attached to the rear end of a shoulder v.strap y.2li and then decreases rapidly to a height just sufficient for attachment to back :strap il through the spread ends of a loop 2l of elastic which constitutes this back strap. The forward end of .said shoulder strap 20 is ladjust-ably connected .to ya loop 22,sec,ured tothe high point of the top ofmember I4.
A very important feature of the invention resides in the construction at the Ylower and inner `parts of the pieceor member i5. Here the corner kof piece .15 `has been l`cut away and a triangular' kfabric piece or member 23 inserted 'for shaping purposes. YSaid :member 23 is very closein shape to a right angle trianglehaving oneleg extending along the bottom of ,the brassire, that is substantially in 1alignment .with ,the lower edge of part l5, and the other, `somewhat shorterleg extending upwardly in alignment with the inner edge of the pocket. The side or edge 2,4 corresponding to the hypotenuse may be somewhat curved with its concave side directed upwardly 3 and outwardly. Said edge 24.of said triangular piece is turned under and is attached to the Aadjacent gathered edge lof the `piece or member L5. At the inner face of the brassire aandalong said -edge ,24, there is a reinforcing strip or binding tape or binder 25 Yof which the edges are attached to the par-ts I5-and 23 by lines of stitching 2G (Fig. 3) It will beevident that the folds-of the gathered material extend upwardly and out- -wardlyfrom'saidedge,25, and that the edge 21S of the shaping insert 23 and the binding ltape 25 maintain Va iXed distance between a point onthe inner edge of the breast pocket and the lower edge of part l5 of the brassire.
The edges of said part l0 'abovethe bottom'edge are reinforced by a binding strip or tape '32 which, vif considered as startingatthe lower right hand corner or base angle of triangular member -23 where it is tacked under vthe band 28, extends upwardly and inwardly to the other `base angle member 23, where it is tacked under a strip of tape 21, lwhich starts at the bottomcentral corner of member I1, runs outwardly and encircles the entire garment as far as the bottom central corner of member I'l. The ends of the loop "22 'and the lrear end of shoulder strap 20 are secured between said binding strip or tape 2'! and -thepieces I4 and I1, respectively.
.by adding a vto the numerals representing corresponding parts in the right portion or part Hl.
The two parts l0 and Ia are illustrated as completed and held together by a fabric strip 2E folded about its longitudinal medial line and with turned in edgesengaging the lower edges of parts 23, l5., 23arand 15a, the ends of tape 32 and 32a, and the central point of tape 21 where it is folded back on itself, and secured thereto by a line of vstitching 29. Said folded fabric strip 23 constitutes .in effecta strap or band terminating at the junction of yparts i5 and H. The ends `o1.the-elastic inthe loop2i of the .back strap li are secured against the outer ends of part H by 4 the peripheral binding ,tape v2l, with vtwo lines of stitching k3 l.
Referring to Figs. 1 and 3, it will be evident 4that the strip or band 28 will be held close to the body beneath the breast, the shoulder strap '20 will faid in keeping the inner edge of the ,breastapocket close to the body and the triangular `shaping piece 2,3 will also be held close to the body. The .gathered portion of member I5 will be expanded and the inner part of the breast pocket ll3 Vmay 'spread across and to the front `of the inner edge of the pocket thus cooperating .may be made and that certain features maybe used without others, without departing'fromthe true scope and spirit of the invention.
What is claimed is:
1. A brassire comprising two breast pockets. side pieces adapted to extend to the back ofthe wearer, the pockets having inner edgesseparated fromeach other and diverging upwardly and outwardly, Vand a band Y'attached `.along the lower edges of the pockets, each pocket comprising a diagonally-extending 'edge leading upwardly vand inwardly from saidband to the lower end of the pocket inner edge, land an inelastic triangular element having one side secured along said diagonally-extending pocket edge, a second side-extending from said 'band upwardly to said lower end of the pocket inner edge, and a base secured along said band.
2. A brassire as set forth in claim 1 wherein the material of each pocket is gathered in `folds adjacent said diagonally-extending pocket edge, said folds being secured to said one side of said triangular element and extending transversely thereto and upwardly and outwardly therefrom.
3. A brassire comprising two Vbreast pockets, side 'pieces adapted to extend to the back of the wearer, the pockets'having inner edges separated from each other and-diverging upwardly and outwardly, and a band attached Yalong lthe lower edge of the pockets, each pocket having a diagonally-extending reinforcing strip leading upwardly and inwardly from said band to the pocket inner edge, the material of each pocket being gathered in folds adjacent said diagonally-extending reinforcing'strip, said folds'being'secured to said strip and extending in adirection transversely thereto and upwardly and outwardly therefrom, whereby the-gathered material of the pocket is prevented from expanding in a direction along said folds but is free from limited expansion in a direction transverse to said folds.
REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record-in the file of this patent:
UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,023,612 Park et al. Dec. 10, 1935 2,185,159 Rubinstein Dec. 26, 1939 2,202,058 Malnick May 28, 1940 2,278,332 Rasch Mar. 31, 1942 2,454,154 Glick Nov. 16, 1948 2,487,210 Barco Nov. 8, 1949 FOREIGN 'PATENTS Number Country Date 495,600 France July 5, 1919