US 2561783 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
July 24, 1951 M. H. BURR 2,561,783
UNDERGARMENT FOR FEMININE WEAR Filed Oct. 51, 1950 4 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR ATTORNEYS July I M BURR UNDERGARMENT FOR FEMINiNE WEAR Filed Oct. 31, 1950 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 J/azy'amklrhwiwz a Z244 #W ATTORNEYS July 24, 1951 M. H. BURR UNDERGARMENT FOR FEMININE WEAR Filed Oct. 31, 1950 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 j INVENTOR jilmmfi'mfrkm flw ATTOR NEYS July 24, 1951 I M. H. BURR 2,561,783
UNDERGARMENT FOR FEMININE WEAR Filed Oct. 51, 1950 i 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 F INVENTOR Mbwfik$iead I MEWF A'ITORNE A? Patented July 24, l l
UNITED s TATE-s PATENT orrici;
UNDliJRGr'ZliItIl/IENil FOEFEMININE WEAR,
Marian HalsteadBurr,washington DnC.
Application October 31, i950, Serial No. 193,091
I 1 This present invention relates to an undergarment for ieminin'e wear, and' has among its objects an undergarment oi such construction and des'ig-n tha't-the stresses and strains resulting from 'the movement 0f the legs and torso of the body and legs, regardless or whether or not stock ings-are worn inassociationtherewith.
isa further specific purpose and object of "the invention toprovide an undergarment having arear flap seat so constructed' anddesigned *as to havea 'formfittingcontour whichmateriallya'clds to thecomfort and useiulnessoi the garment.
It is a further obi ect and purpose of "the invention toprovid'e an undergarment which may be made from a wide variety of fabrics, so llongru'as.
the Warp a-nd the woof thereof are :of a iairl-y even strain' or. tension, whereby stress and strain encountered by the garment "will be correctly transmitted to those areas through which the axes for the major body'movements extend.
'Stiil more-specifically, it is the purp'ose and object of the invention to provide an undergarment which "gives great 'snugness of fit with extreme port to the wearer, improving posture and cont-iibuti-ng toappearance of the figure.
Still further objects and purposes of'the inyention reside in the provision of an undergar ment capable of mass production at low-cost.
Further and more detailedadvantages o'fthe invention will become apparent as the description thereof proceeds, which willbe given by ref- *erence tothe accompanying drawings, wherein:
Figure *1 is a "view of a garment conforming'to 'one'modifieationof the invention showin a rear side'viewth'ereof as it appears on thewearer;
Figure? is a front side view of that modification of the invention shown in Figure 1,'as it ap-- pears on the wearer.
' 'FiE'ure B-is a back*view of that modification or I 4: Claims.
. lightness of-construction, and which gives sup- .12 the invention as "shown in l igure 1, as it appears on-"the wearer.
Figure 4 iswa'view in side elevation of that modi-fication'of the invention shown in Figures lfto 3;"showin the flap seat in open. position.
-Figuretfi isran exploded view of that-modification :of the gaiun'entillustratedin 1""igures1 to 4, showing thecontourfland cut of the individual pieces of fabric which :are joined together. in the production. of the garment.
Figure 6 (is "a trontelevational view showing "the garment conforming to the tmodification of Figiures 1 to'4, withthe individual pieces .as shown in Figure 5 in'iully assembledrelationship, ready to beworn.
iFigure l is a tletailedwiew of one :of the "top liastener assemblies .fioritthetflap seat. I
izFh'gure "8 is a cross-sectional View taken along the line 8-8 of Figure Fl.
'Eigure'Q is a' front elevationalviewof the modiified form of thewinvention, susceptible of :Wear tindepend'entlyof an attached .bra.
Figure 1071s a in side elevation of the :modificati'on'of Figure 9yshowing the flap seat .openy'and,
Figure 11 is a'view -of the garmentconiorming #to themodification ofiFigure 9 shown in assembled form,;ready to be worn.
iBefore referring in detail tothe structuralelemerits and their arrangement, it is dl'esiredtto point out that the undergarment of the present invention hasbeen developed to harmonize with the anatomy. of. the feminine body, with emphasis placed upon the provision of interengaging fasteners inithe areas conforming to the axes about which the major body movements occur, Aswillbe seen by reference to Figure 2,"the1area it indicatedby the dotted line circle, surrounds atransverse axis through the body about which forward and backward bendin largely takejplace. Thusthat portion of the garment lying in this areavpartakes of minimum displacement ..during theva'rious movements of the body. Area B, as showniin Figure 2, embraces the axis about which the legs :swlingand that portion of the garment within this area likewiseiundergoes minimum displacementduring body and leg movements. The area C; surrounded :by the dotted line circle in Figure 3, embraces theaxes about whichmo'st of the major body movements occur, and thus elementswef the g-arment positioned within" this area likewise undergo minimum displacement during movements of the 'wearer.
Tho -elements 'of the garment can perhaps be best initially-described by reference *to Figures'5 which are adapted to be sewn to the complemental edges I6 and I? of the flap seat portion indicated generally at I8. It will be observed that the angularly disposed edges I4 and I5 of the crotch portion I3 intersect at a smaller angle than do the angularly disposed edges I6 and I1 of the flap seat portion IS. The arrangement is such that when edges I4 and I5 are sewn to edges I6 and H, the seat portion I8 is cupped in somewhat along the seam. w I
Returning to the front or abdominal portion ID it will be observed that it flares outwardly for a short distance from the crotch portion I3 along the curved lines I9 and 20. From the outer'ends of the curved lines I9 and the portion I0 continues'to flare outwardly alon curved lines 2| and 22 which, it will be observed, are of a'lesser degree of curvature than lines i9 and 20. The opposite sides of the abdominal portionID continue to flare outwardly or diverge to the point of maximum transverse dimension of the abdominal portion. This dimension is predetermined in relation to the size of the particular garment, so as to be adequate to substantially completely encircle the torso of the wearer.
Again referring to the flap seat portion I8, it will be observed that what becomes the lower edges of the opposite halves thereof curve outwardly from their points of attachment to the the bottom edges 23 and 24 of the flap seat diverge outwardly along the curved lines to the point of the maximum transverse dimension of the flap seat portion I8, and from that point the flap seat portion I8 is defined by the converging straight lines 25 and 26', which become the sides of the flap seat when worn. The top edge'of the flap seat 26 is cut on a curve for a purpose'that will hereinafter more fully appear. The lower chest bridging portion indicated generally at 21 is adapted to be received in cut outportions of and sewn to the abdominal portion I!) between the side'portions II and I2 thereof, which are opened to receive the opposite edges of the lower chest bridging portion 2?. When the lower chest brid ing portion' 21 is sewn in position with the abdominal portion ID, the curved portions 28 and 29 of theside portions II and I2 of the abdominal portion II] constitute respectively continuations of the curved portions 30 and 3I of the lower chest bridging portion 21, to thereby provide substan tially semi-circular lines of attachment for receiving the respective breast cup portions 32 and 33 which are provided withsuitable cut-out or gores indicated at 34 and 35 to permit gathering on attachment to the abdominal portion I0 and lower chest bridging portion 27 so as to yield breast cups giving the desired uplift effect.
By reference to Figure sshowing all of the elements in assembled relation with the garmentready for wear, it will be noted that fastener tabs 36, each provided with a plurality of spaced open-e ings, are attached to one side of the abdominal portion I0 along the line of its maximumtransverse dimension, and that complemental fastenerhooks 31 are attached to the abdominal portion In at the opposite side thereof along the line of its maximum transverse dimension. Duplicate;
V crotch portion I3, as indicated at 23 and 24. Thus 4 fastening elements 38, each arranged for selective attachment at any one of several points are affixed to the abdominal portion ID, at points substantially vertically disposed from the points of juncture of the curved lines I9 and 2!! respectively with the curved lines 2| and 22. A second set of duplicate fastener elements 39 are afiixed to the abdominal portion I 0 adjacent the side edgesthereof, and nearthe points ofjuncture respectively of the curved lines .19 and-20 with the curved lines'ZI and 22. Duplicate fastener hooks 40 are carried at the opposite sides of the rear flap II at the point of its maximum trans-' verse dimension. A further set of duplicate fas tener elements 4| are carried at the opposite sides of the rear flap I8 adjacent the upper edge 26' thereof. The arrangement is such that fastener elements M on the rear flap I8 interengage with a selected opening 42 in the fastener members 38 secured to the abdominal portion I 0 as above described, and the fastener elements 46 on therear flap I8 interengage with the fastener members, mounted on the abdominal portion II). I
While not essential, it has been found desirable to incorporate a section of elastic in that portion of the curved lower edges 23 and 24 of the rear flap I8 adjacent the crotch portion I3... .These sections of elastic at these points act to draw in the bottom of the rear flap I8 to give a smooth, form-fitting effect that will be apparent by reference to Figure 3. r
In the modification of the invention shown in Figures 1-6, shoulder straps 43 extend from the rearmost upper corners of the side portions II and I2 of the abdominal portion I0 to the upper..- most points of the breast cups 32 and33. The garment-may be worn either with or without stockings and for this reason conventional detachable garters 44 are illustrated. as applicable to the garter attaching tabs 45. The points at which the garter attaching tabs 45 are secured tothe garment are important-and it will be noted that the front garter attaching tabs 45 are secured to the abdominal portion I0 along the curved lines I9 and 20 adjacent their intersection respectivelywith the curved lines 2I and 22, Whereas the rear garter attaching tabs 45' are secured to the curved lower edges 23 and 24 of the rear flap I8 inapproximate alignment with the intersection of the curved edges 23 and 24 with the crotch portion I3. The arrangement is such that the pull on the stockings in leg movement of the wearer is transmitted to th garment along lines designed to minimize displacement and disturbance of the garment.
When the garment is worn, it will be observed that the various fastening elements lie in the areas of the axes of the major movements of-the body.- For example, the fastener elements 36 and 3'! lie in the area C of the back as may be seen by reference to Figure 3. The fastener elements 38 and 4| lie in the area A-and the fastener elements 39 and 4!} lie in the area B, as will be seen by reference to Figure 2. I Due to the fact that the abdominal portion Ill, including the side portions I I and I2, and the crotch portion I3 are cut straight with the. cloth, whereas the remaining portions of the garment are cut on the bias, the garment yields in those I areas wherethe greatest accommodation to body terengagement of the portions of the garment 5 occur in the areasof the axes f the major" body movements, "they aresubject to minimum diseplacement during bodvmovement of 'thewearer. "For this-reason, among others, the garment does 'notcreepgbind or pull at anypoint, regardless or the position assumed by "the wearer. The few "seams required in "the assembly of 'the'limited number of pieces making up-the garment are 'so z'spositioned that they do not occasion puckering of the fabric or discomfort-to the wearer.
Referring to the modification shown in Figures 9--11,'-Whi0h modification. is adapted to be worn independently "of an affixed bra, it will be 'observewthat the abdominal portion lfi corre- "sponds in "construction to the abdominal portion s H! oft-he modification of Figures 1-=6 with the 'exoeption that it terminates in the upper edge '41 at its point of maximum tran verse' dimension at --apl roximately the waistline of "the wearer.
In this modification the sides of the abdominal i pOrTtionAB diverge from the "relatively narrow crotch portion-ds along the curved lines '49 and E! and "thence 'along'the curved linestl and 52 which are of lesser curvature than the lines 4'3 and 50. Corlrrplemental'fastener tabs -53 and 54 1-6, like reference characters have been applied its like parts in these figures. It will be observed that in the modification of' Figures *9-11 the points of interengagement and fastening of the portions of the garment when worn fall...in the areaslof the axes of the major body movements and arelsubject to minimum displacement by mod-y movements of the wearerj'ust as herein- ;abovepointed out in respect to the modification of the invention illustrated inFigures 1-6.
, l'I-o ltheend that a garment according -to--.cither modification may be accommodated to variations in the build and contours of *th'e wearer, the complemental fastener tabs uu21lnd 31 are arranged iopXOVidBv-fi. selection of points 10f interchan ement and the fastening members 38 are provided with triangularly disposed openings 42 to permit 6 :on the upper-abdomen as well as to i create an axis "for the 'completedreedoin of move-mentof the "wearer iii-all forms of activities without in any "way pulling the garment out of shape or disturb ing the back garters. The lower side fasteners for' the rear flap serve to maintaintension npwardly "inwardly on the lower part of the disturbance to theremain'der ofthe garment,
axes of the rear flapbeing the spaced fastenings at each side which lie in the areas of'the axes of the major-movements of the legs andhips.
1.An 'undergarm'ent'for feminine wear com prising, a front abdominal portionyla relatively narrow crotch portion, said abdominal portion flaring outwardly along a pair'of concave curved "lines from said :crotch portion fora relatively short distance and thence along lines lot less curvature to a point upwardly ofthe waistline at which point said. abdominal ,portion has its maximum transverse dimension, fasteningmeans secured. tosaid abdominal. section .at the, opposite extremities of its maximum transverse.dimension adapted, when worn, .to be interengaged.lat-..the hack of the torso .ofa wearer, area-r .flap con- ..nected to said abdominal 1 section, :b lsaid rela- .-tivel narrow crotch section, the lower edges of -the oppositehal-ves of said .flap being .convexly curvedso asto he snugly drawn under the butltocks of na wearer, -thelsideoedges of said .rear flap convergin valong.substantially straight rlines from its point of maximum transverse dimension towardlthesunper edgethereof, a fastener cartriedlat .each end loin-each of said converging side .edges vofsaid rear l flap-to provide upper and lower spairs of fasteners for 2' said rear flap, upper. and lower pairs :of complomental fasteners carried by said rabdominal .-se:ction,=-the upper lpairwlof said engagement of the fastener members 4| carried on the rear flap at any one of several selected points of attachment. In this way the variations in body contour within the limits of the given size garment can be accommodated without sacrificing the form-fitting and smooth effect of the garment.
In the modification of Figures 9-1]. only one of the back fastening connections is required since it is so positioned as to completely control the stresses and strains of movement and to maintain the garment in perfect control when worn with or without stockings, while permitting the flap seat to be fastened and unfastened at will. The provision of the flap seat has many advantages over closed garments and the cut of this portion of the garment allows the garters, when attached to the stockings, to take the strain on the warp and woof of the material diagonally across the buttocks and hips which is transmitted to a natural pivotal point of the body on each side just below the waistline. The uppermost fastoners at each side of the rear flap, apart from permitting easy opening, serve to draw in and up complemental fasteners being spaced inwardly a substantial distance from the marginal edges of said abdominal portion to provide a substantial overlap of said rear flap and abdominal portion at the opposite sides of said garment.
2. An undergarment for femine Wear comprising, a front abdominal portion, a crotch and a rear flap, the sides of said abdominal portion diverging along concavely curved paths from the crotch to the point of maximum transverse dimension of said abdominal portion, tabs aifixed to the opposite sides of said abdominal portion at its point of maximum transverse dimension to effect interengagement thereof at the back of a wearer, a seam securing said rear flap and said crotch together, said rear flap diverging outwardly and upwardly from said crotch along convexly curved paths to the point of maximum transverse dimension of said rear flap and then converging along substantially straight lines toward the upper edge of said rear flap which lies below the point of interengagement of said tabs carried by said abdominal portion, a fastener near each end of each of said converging side edges of said rear flap to provide upper and lower pairs of fasteners for said rear flap, upper and lower pairs of complemental fastener-engaging elements secured to said abdominal portion, the
upper pair of said complemental fastener-engaging elements being. spaced inwardly a substantial distance from the marginal edges of said abdominal portion to provide a substantial overlap of said rear flap and abdominal portion at the opposite sides of said garment, all of said fasteners, when engagedlying in areas of limited displacement during body movements of a wearer.
3, An undergarment for feminine wear comprising, a front abdominal portion, a crotch, and a rear flap, the sides of said abdominal portion diverging along a, pair of concavely curved paths from the crotch for a relatively short distance and thence along lines of less curvature to the point of maximum transversedimension of said abdominal portion, means positioned at the opposite sides of said abdominal portion at its point p of maximum transverse dimension to effect inter- I ward the upper edge of said rear flap along substantially straight lines, the upper edge of said rear flap lying below the point of interengagement of said means carried by said abdominal portion, fasteners near the ends of the converging side edges of said rear flap, complemental fastener engaging elements on said abdominal portion, said abdominal portion carrying upwardly extending rear side portions which project above and flare outwardly from said interengaging means, a lower chest bridging portion sewn to said abdominal portion intermediate said rear. side portions and breast cups secured around their lower portions to said bridging portion and to said rear side portions, said abdominal por tion and the crotch being cut straight with the cloth and the remaining portions of the garment being cut on the bias.
4. An undergarment for feminine wear com prising, a front abdominal'portion, a crotch and a rear flap, the sides of said abdominal portion diverging from the crotch for a short distance along a first pair of concavely curved paths then continuing said curvature along a second pair of ooncavely curved paths of lesser curvature than said first pair to the point of maximum transverse dimension of said abdominal portion, means aflixed to the pposite sides of saidabdominal portion at its point of maximum transverse dimension to effectinterengagement thereof at the backof a wearer, means securing said rear flap and said crotch together along lines permitting said crotch to extend above the lowermost part of said rear flap, saidrear' flap diverging'outwardly and upwardly from said crotch along conveXly curved lines to the point of maximum transverse dimension of said rear flap and then converging along straight lines to the upper edge of said rear flap which lies below the point of interengagement of said means carried-by said abdominal portion, the lengthof said converging straight lines being less than the second pair of concave curved paths defining the side edges of said abdominal portion, fasteners near the ends of said straight lines and complemental fastener engaging elements on said abdominal portion, said abdominal portion embracing upwardly extending rear side portions which project upwardly and flare outwardly from said interengaging means, a chest bridging portion sewn in said abdominal portion intermediate said rear side portions and breast cups secured around their lower portions to said bridging portion and said rear side portions and shoulderstraps connecting the upper edges of the breast cups to theupper edges of said rear side portions. r V
' MARIAN HALSTEAD BURR.
REFERENCES. oI'rED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:
UNITED STATES PATENTS Number FOREIGN PATENTS Country Date Great Britain June 19, 1939 Number Morgan June 15, 1948