US 2740966 A
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April 10, 1956 BIHALY 2,740,966
COLLAR Filed Dec. 16, 1950 Q n \M i, L l' United StatesPatent O COLLAR Lajas Bihaly, London, Englandy "Application December 1e, 1950, serial No. 201,105
' 2 claims. (c1. 2-129) i It has been proposed to simplify and improve the mass production of garments or garment-parts where vclose ad'- herence to a pattern is required, by securing the fabric layers constituting these garments or garmentparts in a suitable frame and guiding the assembly by' pre-set mechanical means under the needle of a sewing machine.
One`such method and apparatus has been described in detailin our co-pending application Ser. No. 201,106
filed December 16, 1950, now Patent No. 2,684,651 while others have been proposed.
One ofl the diliiculties appearing when stitching accoi-ding to some of these methods is connected with the production of sharp corners, for example, those which are called points in collar-making, because they are required to form the pointed ends of a collar. l
This difficulty is due to the fact that the frame holding the fabric layers is usually guided in such a way as to cause the frame to move, and thus the stitch to run, in a variable direction. For example, the frame can move from right to left at a given moment, while it can move from front to back at another. to support the fabric assembly in such a way as to compensate for the pull of the stitch coming from varying directions.
Further, some of the methods possible for the mechanical guidance of fabrieassemblies under the needle of a. sewing machine are such that they make it altogether impossible or very diicult to produce sharp points, for example, if the frame is guided by pins along channels cut to the exact shape ofA the stitch to be produced, in which case jamming at sharp corners is likely to take place.
According to the present invention, this diliculty in the production of sharp corners by automatically-guided stitching is obviated by continuing the line of stitching beyond the apex point of the corners and returning to this point in a small loop, arriving in the right direction for steady continuance along Vthe other limb of the corner.
The additional small loop-thus formed can,if necessary, beremoved subsequently, but, for example, in the case of a collar point, it falls into the turned-in seam and can be disregarded in subsequent operations.
The attached drawing shows the application of the method according to the invention in connection with method and apparatus described in our co-pending application Ser. No. 201,106 filed December 16, 195,0, now Patent No. 2,684,651.
The constituent plies A of such a collar are secured'in frame 1 by clamp 2. Frame 1 is positioned in the apparatus by means of locating elements 3, as more fully described in the aforementioned application. The line Thus, it is dicult y t CC of stitching B realised with the apparatus comprises at both collar points small loops C formed by the continu ation of the line of stitching past the apex point and by a small loop connecting the two continuation lines.V
Once the collar assembly is turned inside out, the loops C are hidden between the outer plies.
- trolling means of the apparatus guiding the workpiece under the needle as described in application Serial No. 201,106 filed December 16, 1950, now Patent No. 2,684,- 651. As a result, the angle produced by any twoconsecutive stitches will deviate as little as possible from and the `pull of the second stitch will be taken up practically fully, by the anchorage provided by the first stitch.
l. A collar comprising in combination: at least two constituent plies superposed to each other, said collar having a contour comprising longitudinal outer and inner border lines and two transverse border lines, said transverse border lines forming equal predetermined angles with said outer longitudinal border line to denne the tips of the collar; each of said plies having an area slightly greater than that of the collar and defined by border lines extending substantially parallel to the contour of the collar so that the area of each of said plies is greater than the area of the collar by a narrow marginal zone of uniform width; stitchings connecting said superposed plies with each other, said stitchings forming a line extcndingfrom a point on one of said transverse border lines near said inner longitudinal border line along said transverse border line to the collar tip formed at the meeting point between said transverse border line and said outer longitudinal border line, then, as a continuation of said transverse border line, beyond said tip into said marginal zone, then in a small loop back to said tip, and from there along said longitudinal outer border line to the second collar tip formed at the meeting point between the other transverse border line and said outer longitudinal border line, then as a continuation of said longitudinal outer border line beyond said second collar tip into said marginal zone, then in a small loop back to said second tip, and from, there along said other transverse border line to a point on said other transverse border line near said inner longitudinaliborder line, said marginal zones on each of said plies being folded inwardly such as to be disposed between those areas of the outside plies of the collar which on three sides are surrounded by said linc of stitchings.
2. A collar as claimed in claim l, in which the stitch length is shorter in the loop than in the remaining portions of the line of stitching.
Proud et al. --.a Aug. 5, 1952 Patented Apr. 10, 1956