US 2798225 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
July 9, 1957 s JACbBSQN 2,798,225
SHIRT CONSTRUCTION Filed Oct. 18. 1954 Q INVENTOR Hoary $.J61CO6S0 27/ United States ce 4 SHIRT CONSTRUCTION Harry S. Jacobson, New York, N. Y. Application October 18, 1954, Serial No. 462,894
1 Claim. (Cl. 2-115) This invention relates to sport shirts and the construction thereof.
It is an object of my invention to provide a sport shirt characterized by the provision ofcomfort in action, simplicity of design, and which is flattering in appearance.
More particularly, it is an object of my invention to provide a sport shirt construction characterized by the features that the discomfort of the known set-in sleeve is avoided, and the inclusion of a composite shirt construction of simple panels for making of the rear panel, the front panel and a combination integral yoke and sleeve panel, in which the balance point for suspension of these panels is oflset from and below the crest of the shoulders by the provision of the seam line forming the connection between the yoke and the front panel, which extends transversely from about the quarter mark of the neck band opening and below the crest of the shoulders, above the armpit opening.
Still more particularly, it is an object of my invention to provide a shirt construction in which the yoke and sleeves are made of a unitary panel of the fabric, the yoke serving as the point of suspension for the front panel assembly along a seam line below the crest of the shoulders and extends transversely into the front neck opening and to the sleeve opening above the armpit, where a flattering appearance is achieved, and comfort secured during action characterized by the avoidance of pull in action.
To attain these objects and such further objects as may appear herein or be hereinafter pointed out, I make reference to the accompanying drawing, forming a part hereof, in which- Figure 1 is a front perspective view of a shirt embodying my invention, with portions broken away to reveal the armpit construction;
Figure 2 is a rear perspective view;
Figure 3 is a magnified plan view of a pattern blank for making the combination yoke and sleeve.
Making reference to the drawing, there is disclosed a sport shirt 10, having a turndown collar 11. In the illustration, one of the collar points 11a is turned up to show the neckband. The shirt has full length front panels 12 and 13, and a rear panel 14, joined to each other at the sides by longitudinal seams 15 and 16, running to the armpit opening. The front and rear panels are joined by a yoke panel 17, the blank for which is shown in magnified form in Figure 3.
The yoke panel 17 has a substantially rectilinear rear panel suspending edge 18 and a forwardly directed collar opening 19, positioned between forwardly directed suspension edges 17a-17a. The yoke panel 17 is integrally formed with sleeve portions 20-20, outlined by forward arcuate edges 17b-17b, for forming the forward armpit seam, as will appear as this description proceeds.
Opposed edges 17c-17c may each be joined to the diametrically opposed edges 17d-17d, to form the sleeve seam longitudinally thereof and thus outline the cuff 2,798,225 Patented July 9, 1957 17e-17e or arm opening for a short sleeve construction which is the preferred form which is illustrated.
The yoke edge 18 is attached to the uppermost edge of the 'rear panel 14 to provide the rear panel suspending edge'seam 22 between the armpit seams 23-23 formed by sewing the edges 17f-17f to the correspondingly curved edge of the rear panel 14. The yoke edges 17a-17a are joined to the uppermost edges of the front panels 12 and 13 to form a transverse seam line 24.
The edge of the blank defining the collar opening 19 is connected to the neckband 25 adjacent the balance point 26, providing a transverse seam which extends below the crest of the shoulders 27, entering the neckband forming opening 25 about one quarter rearwardly from the medial point of the front half of the edge of the neckband defining opening, i. e., the front quarter point of the edge defining the neckband opening and providing a balance point for the suspension of the front panel assembly above the armpit forming opening defined by the front armpit edges 17b and the rear armpit edges 23. The usual closure fly 28 runs downwardly from the neck opening to the lower edge 29 and may be closed by separable fasteners, such as buttons and buttonholes 30 and 31 or other suitable means. The uppermost portion adjacent the neckband may be closed by a button and loop assembly 32, 33, as will be readily understood.
While I have described the front closure fly 28 running between the uppermost buttonhole 30 to the bottom of the garment, where the fly may be a full length front closure for the panels 12 and 13 I may make these panels integral to the point outlined by the button and buttonhole 30 and 31, thereby to provide a slip-over shirt.
By the construction described and illustrated, it will be found that the shirt in accordance with the construction described eliminates the usual set-in sleeve and provides a unitary yoke and sleeve in which the balance point for suspension of the front panels is ofi-set from the normal and outlines a seam line medial between the normal, i. e. the crest of the shoulders, and is disposed transversely to supply a flattering elfect, as well as to avoid the pulling tendency and discomfort of a set-in sleeve or a dolman or'Raglan sleeve.
Further, economies in manufacture, as well as comfort in fit, are effected by the construction described, particularly where the transverse seam line providing the balance point for suspension of the front panels is rearwardly about one quarter between the medial point of the neckband and the crest of the shoulders, but above the armpit opening.
Having thus described my invention and illustrated its use, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:
In a sport shirt or the like having a separate collar portion and having a separate, substantially full length front panel assembly and a separate, substantially full length rear panel joined to each other at their sides, the combination having a yoke panel including an integral rear panel suspending edge and having an edge defining a collar opening forwardly between suspension edges for the upper edge of the front panel assembly, said yoke panel being integrally formed with sleeve portions and joining the upper portion of the rear panel at one rear edge portion thereof along a transverse line and outlining a portion of the armpit portion, the yoke at its front edges being attached to the front panel assembly and being sewed to the collar portion along a seam line outlining the collar opening and entering the edge defining the neckband forming opening, the front panel assembly consisting of spaced panels, each being shaped to define a substantially horizontal seam at each of the upper edges thereof which is joined to the yoke, the
seams each running from a point rearwardly approximately one quarter between the medial point of the neckband and covering the crest of the shoulder covering portion and transversely along the Width of the panel to a point above the armpit .opening,-.;thereby providing ".a seam having a balance point for the gsuspension of the front panel assembly extending from :the edge defining the collar opening and laterally to -each side-below the crest of the shoulder'form-ing portion and above the armpit informing openin References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS