US 2945238 A
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Description (OCR text may contain errors)
D. WEISER PLEATING July 19, 1960 Fned April .15, 1957 DAV/o wE/sER Per S5010 Agent July 19, 1960 D. WEISER PLEATING 3 Sheets-Sheet 2.
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N z H H Inventor DA v/D .WE/SER Per gon Agent D. WEISER July 19, 1960 PLEATING u m Nw@ M MN Q nhhmilbmlild m .mm
SN, NS f Filed April l5, 1957 Agent PLEATING David Weiser, V2515 Bathhurst St., Toronto, Gaiarin, Canada Filed Apr. 15, 1957, Ser. No. 652,767
4 Claims. (Cl. 2-243) The present application is a continuation-in-part of application 592,375 filed June 19, 1956, by the same inventor and entitled Box-Pleated Skirt.
The invention herein disclosed relates generally to improvements in pleating with special reference to pleated panels constituting a part, at least, of a larger fabric formed or adapted to be formed into an article of apparel.
The invention is deemed to be of particular utility and advantage in association with womens skirts and will be Iso described although it is not entirely inconceivable that it may be usefully employed in other garments as well.
The problem which the invention mainly seeks to resolve arises from the dimensional factors requiring consideration in the making of pleated skirts. As is well known, such skirts which are normally unfoldable and expandable, have inexpandable bands of optional height and substantially reduced circumference next adjacent their upper edges. The specific problem heretofore encountered has therefore been to achieve the necessary circumferential reduction in this region in a smoothly fitting andv attractive manner and without introducing excessive bulk therein.
One of the main objects of the invention is, therefore, to provide a method of pleating for the band portion of a panel whereby such dimensional reduction can be achieved in an eiiicient, economical and expeditious manner, with an attractive result on both the inside and outside surfaces of the panel.
It is also an important object of the invention to provide a method for pleating the said panel band portion whereby excess material can be conveniently removed to avoid accumulation of excessive bulk therein.
A still further and quite important object of the invention is to provide such pleating method which is applicable to a variety of pleating modes such as box pleating and knife pleating as well as to several variations and combinations thereof.
It is, Yof course, an object of the invention to provide a panel whose band portion has been pleated pursuant to the present methods.
A pleat, as is well known, is basically constituted by a multiplicate folding of fabric creating a set of pleat ele- -ments comprised of inner and outer pleat faces, or reveals, which appear on the respective sides of the pleat and an intervening, interconnecting, underlay -or gusset. A pleated panel will therefore exhibit a series of `consecutive pleat reveals on each of its inside and outside surfaces; the reveals being interconnected by gussets as aforesaid.
The above stated and other objects of the invention which will duly become apparent are achieved by cutting `into the band portion of theV panel to be pleated so as to liberate the terminal portion of at least one reveal from each .proposed pleat set; the same '(i.e. .inside4 or outside) reveal being liberated from consecutive sets.
The thus liberated reveals may then be conveniently 'tapered and grouped or otherwise pfprwrned into a relativeice ly independent band; the same being done with their companion reveals whereby the superuous material may be either cut away or arranged between the two resulting bands to minimize bulk, as will appear from the hereinafter following description of a preferred embodiment of the inventive idea which is illustrated by way of example only in the hereunto annexed drawing wherein like reference devices refer to like parts throughout the several views and wherein:
Fig. 1-A plan view of a panel as contemplated by the invention which has been ruled to indicate areas which will be respectively formed into knife pleats as well as to indicate the band zone.
Fig. 2--An isometric view looking down on the ends of knife pleats formed pursuant to the invention both above and below the band zone.
Fig. 3-An elevational view of a panel pleated pursuant to the invention and folded to show both its inside and outside surfaces.
Fig. 4A detail\showing a stage in the method of forming the reveal terminals into the bands aforesaid.
Fig. S-A view corresponding to Figure 1 and showing a panel ruled for box pleats.
Fig. 6--A top plan View looking down on the band l Zone of the panel of Fig. 5 after it has been box-pleated pursuant to the invention; the broken lines appearing therein indicating certain portions which have been cut away.
Fig. 7--An isometric view corresponding to Fig. 2 showing the same details as Fig. 2 with respect to box pleats.
Fig. 8A view in elevation of a skirt formed of a panel pleated pursuant to the invention.
Fig. 9-An enlarged view of a fragment of the panel shown in Fig. 1.
Figs. 10, l1 and lZ-Schematic views showing successive stages by which knife pleats are formed in the band zone of the panel fragment shown in Fig. 9.
Fig. l3-An enlarged view of a fragment of the panel shown in Fig. 5; and
Figs. 14 and lS-Schematic views showing successive stages whereby box pleats are formed in the band zone of theV panel fragment of Fig. 13.
It will be recalled that a pleat has been described asa 'multiplicate fold producing a set of pleat elements comprising inner and outer pleat faces or reveals and Van interconnecting intervening underlay or gusset. lf a said reveal exhibits two lateral edges on each side of the panel, it is usually termed a box pleat. Conversely, if it exhibits only one such edge it is known as a knife pleat.
vAnother distinguishing characteristic of thegknife pleat is that its two reveals are more or less squarely rsuperposed over each other while its one interconnecting gusset is, perforce, approximately as wide as either of the reveals. In the box pleat, on the other hand, the reveals are offset relative to each other and the gusseting consists or' two half gussets which are, in turn, separated by reveals. 4
It will be understood, of course, that the foregoing pleat characteristics have been set forth for purposes of identification and by `no means as limitations.
`*Proceeding now with the description-of the invention in relation to knife pleats, P is a panel on which it is proposed to form a complement of knife pleats.
Although it will hardly be necessary to do so in actual practice, the panel 'P of Figs. 1 and 9 has herein been ruled both vertically and horizontally to plot the pleats and the various elements thereof which will hereinafter be discussed. Thus the double vertical line's xdenote the boundaries of the several areas A respectively proposed vtobe folded into pleats while the broken vertical-lines):
in each area A denote the lateral margins of the pleat elements, namely: the outer and inner pleat reveals 10 and the gusset 12 of each proposed knife pleat.
'Ihe .horizontal VYzone line z marks the bottoms of .the bands 14-14 and isolates theterininals16-16 which are those portions of the reveals 11i-lijf within the bands 14.-14'. Needless to say, the said line z may theoretically occur at any desired levelof the .panel P between its bottom edge and itsk upper edge 18. j
Having plotted therpanel P into pleat areas A, its
band zone which is disposed between the zone line z and the panel edge 18 is then incised as at 22-22 on each side of one of the reveal terminals 16 or 16' in each pleat area A to release or liberate the former from the remainder of said pleat area A within the band `zone 20 although not from the panel P to which it remains attached at zone line` Z; Ythe terminal 16 of the outer reveal 1t) having been so liberated in the present embodiment. Inasmuch as the gusset terminal 24 serves no useful purpose in the band zone 20 of the panel P, the cut 22 may be made anywhere therein and, in fact, said cut 22 may be of such character as to remove gusset terminal 24 in its entirety, as suggestedby the broken line in the drawing, to reduce bulk in this region. The second cut 22 may then be made along the juncture line x of abutting reveal terminals 16-16' in adjacent pleat'areas A. i It is most desirable,`of course, that the corresponding reveal terminals 16 be so liberated in each pleat area A; being all planned to occur on the same side of the panel P when the latter is iinally'pleated.
The thus liberated terminals 16 are then grouped into a first band 14 which may be 'effected by seams 26 interconnecting the lateral margins 2S of each pair of adjacent terminals; the length of the seams 26 corresponding preferably to the depth of cuts 22-22 which is, in turn, related to the specific distance of zone line z below the edge 18 of the panel P.
The seam 26 which interconnects two adjacent terminals 16 may be sloped or slanted, with respect to the axes of the pleats in a manner well known in the art to taper said terminals 16 as in Figs. 2 and 4. j The foregoing operation is then duplicated in respect of terminals 16 which are grouped into a second, superposed, band 14 by seams 26'. Incidentally, it need hardly be pointed out that both in plotting and cutting the panel P, allowance is herein contemplated and should be made for sewing edges as shown in Figs. 9` and 1l; such provision having been omitted from Fig. 1 for the sake of clarity and to avoid complicating this view.
At this stage it may be noted that the hereinV devised concept of liberating the terminals as a step in the process permits subsequent operations to be carried out on two substantially separated bands 14-'14 as n Fig. 4 and are resultantly, radically simplified.
Bearing in mind, as hereinbefore stated, that a knife pleat is one in which the pleat reveals are superposed, it will be understood that seams 2.6-2.6 in the bands 14-14' may tend to coincide and thus create unwanted and noticeable promontories between the said bands 14- 14'. It is therefore desirable that the said seams 264-26' be offset relative to each other and this is achieved by varying the width of gusset 12 relative to the width of the pleat reveals. In the present example, the gusset width has been actually increased over that of the reveals 10-10; an extension of this proportioning into the zone 20 ensuring that the seams in one band are concealed by the reveals in the other band. Y
Pleating of the panel P may now be completed by ironing below the zone line z and/or by such other steps as are well known in the art. If desired, or appropriate, the bands 14-14' may also be interconnected at their ends.
The panel Pb of Fig. 6 and 15 proposed to be provided with box pleats is ruled, plotted and zoned in the same manner as in the case of the panel P to dene pleat areas 4 A, pleat reveals 11G-110', and pleat terminals 116-116 which correspond to the equivalent parts of the panel P and, in fact, bear the same reference devices distinguished, as will be noted, by preiixing the numeral l thereto. However, in this example, the gusseting is provided in the form of two half gussets 112-112 which are respectively arranged to occur between each pair of pleat reveals 1111- whether or not such reveals are in the same pleat area A.
In this case, too, a corresponding reveal terminal 116 is liberated from each area A by cuts 122-122' which, however, are effected in the gusset terminals 124--124 which may also be entirely removed if desired as indicated by the phantom lines in the relevant views.
The corresponding pleat terminals 116 and 116 of the respective pleat areas A are also then grouped into bands 114-114 and the panel Pb completed in the same manner as the panel P.
As has been stated, the panels P or Pb may be of sucient size to form a skirt or other garment. Alternately, they may be incorporated in and made part of a fabric of appropriate dimensions or they may constitute areas in such fabric.
As hereinbefore set forth, the method of the invention comprises, amongst other things, the liberation of certain selected pleat terminals .and the grouping thereof into bands. However, there is another Way in which the same inventivel idea can be expressed although, in its broad concepts, it constitutes nothing more than a reL phrasing of the method already defined.
It will be noted that the general eifects of the cuts 22-22 and 1224-122 in the band zones 20 and 120 is to divide the said band zones into discrete aps; each constituting and/or incorporating a reveal terminal denoted by lines y.
Practice of the method hereinbefore disclosed results in alternate flaps being grouped together to form said bands.
Thus the inventive idea may be alternately summarized and embodied in the following steps, namely, dividing the band zone of the panel into a series of discrete flaps, each incorporating the terminal of a proposed pleat reveal and grouping alternate reveal terminals into a pair of superposed bands.
It will also be understood that the cuts, generically identified as 22` (which here includes 22-122-122') are not necessarily mere splits of the band zones 20 (and They may be broadened in appropriate instances, as has already been indicated in connection with the gusset terminals Z4 (and 124) to eliminate excess material between the bands 14 (etc.) and/or may be inclined with respect to the reveal axes as parallel guides for the seams 26. Y
These expedients are thought not only to be productive of better results but also to obviate the need for expert seamstresses in the manufacture of the panels and/ or garments herein contemplated; such obviation being also rendered still more feasible by the present concept of forming the band zones 20 into independent bands 14 which are more readily accessible for fabrication.
It will, of course, be understood that although they are herein referred to as independent or separate members, said bands 14 are always nevertheless interconnected at Vthe level denoted by the zone line z being otherwise free of attachmentto each other.
It should, perhaps, also be stressed that while, in the best lform thereof known to the inventor, the invention contemplates that the reveal terminals 16 be sewn into the bands 14 in the described manner, it is yet conceivable that an acceptable result may be achieved in certain circumstances by limiting the length of the seams 26 and even by omitting them altogether whether on onel side or on both; such omission being theoretically passable in the case 4of box-pleating, for example, if the upper edge 118 of the pleated panel Pb be provided with the conventional waist band 30 appealing on S in Fig. 8.
The foregoing seeks to make it clear that the inventor is well aware that many variations and modifications are possible in the mode of pleating contemplated and set forth herein. The fact that such variations and modiications have not been specifically noted should not, therefore, be construed as an abandonment thereof; they having been purposely excluded for the sake of brevity and clarity; the true scope of the invention being set forth in the appended claims.
What I claim as my invention is:
1. In the pleating of a fabric panel to produce groups of consecutive pleat faces on the respective inner and outer sides thereof, the method of Ifabricating a zone of the panel between an edge thereof and a zone line spaced from said edge which includes the steps of incising said panel to release the portions of the said pleat faces within said zone from the remainder of said panel zone, each said pleat face remaining attached to said panel at said zone line and of assembling the released portions on each panel side into a band which is relatively -free of attachment to the band comprised of the released portions on the other side of the panel within said zone.
2. In the pleating of a yfabric panel to produce groups of consecutive pleat faces on the respective inner `and outer sides thereof with pleat underlays interconnecting pleat faces on one side to pleat faces on the other, the method of fabricating a zone of the panel between one of its edges and a zone line arbitrarily spaced from said edge which includes the steps of cutting the panel to release the portions of the pleat faces on one side, at least, of the said panel within said zone from the remainder of said panel zone, each said pleat face remaining attached to said panel at said zone line, of re-assembling said released portions into `an inexpandable band, and of forming the portions of the other pleat faces within said zone into another superposed and inexpandable band; said cutting releasing said face portions being such -as to remove substantial sections of at least some of the said underlays.
3. A pleated panel having a band zone between one of its edges and a zone line spaced from said edge; pleat faces on the respective inner and outer sides of said panel; portions of the said pleat `faces extending into said band zone, and a pair of inexpandable `and superposed bands within said band zone meeting and merging with each other at said zone line and being otherwise free of attachment to each other; each said band being comprised of the pleat face portions on that side of the panel including each said band.
4. A pleated panel having a band zone between one of its edges and a zoneline spaced from said edge; pleat faces on the respective inner and outer sides of said panel; portions of the said pleat faces extending into said band zone, and a pair of inexpandable and superposed bands within said band zone meeting and merging with each other at said zone line and being otherwise free of attachment to each other; each said band being comprised of the pleat face portions on that side of the panel including each said band and each said pleat face portion being sewn to those -neXt adjacent thereto by seams which 4are inclined towards each other substantially from said zone line to said edge.
References Cited in the le of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,434,398 Koret July 22, 1947 2,530,678 Brennan NOV. 21, 1950 2,573,871 Pleet NOV. 6, 1951 2,818,575 Hills Ian. 7, 1958