US 2984918 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
y 1951 J. smssmmu 2,984,918
Filed Nov. 24, 1958 3/ Jaw 4 inwensy United States Patent SHOE Joel Glassman, Nashville, Tenn., assignor to Genesco, Inc., Nashville, Tenn., a corporation of Tennessee Filed Nov. 24, 1958, Ser. No. 775,797
1 Claim. (Cl. 36-195) This invention relates to shoes, and more particularly to a process of making a lasted shoe which permits substantial reduction if not partial elimination of the insole.
The principal object of the invention is to provide a method of making a light-weight flexible shoe having the advantages in appearance, fit and good life of a lasted shoe but with a more flexible and lighter weight sole. It \m'll be understood that the conventional lasted shoe involves the steps of temporarily securing an insole to a last, stretching the upper around the last, the upper having a lasting allowance extending entirely around its bottom, securing the lasting allowance to the insole, and then attaching an outsole. Such a shoe tends to be stifi because the upper is secured along its entire bottom periphery to a full-length insole.
There are various methods of eliminating the insole, although they generally result in a less satisfactory appearance, fit and shoe life. For example, the turned shoe has a thin flexible outsole to which the upper is attached when inside-out and then turned. Moccasins represent another type of shoe without insole, the upper extending substantially continuously across the bottom, the forepart then being shaped by a sewn moccasin plug and the instep portions sometimes being shaped by a cutout, which is drawn in and stitched.
Although other features of the invention will be apparent in the accompanying detailed description, briefly, the upper is cut so that side edges thereof may be brought together along a seam extending longitudinally along only a part of the bottom. Preferably, this bottom seam terminates short of both the toe and heel leaving a lasting allowance at both the toe and heel portions of the upper. The partially completed upper is then slipped over a last, preferably one of the type which can be shortened before opening so as not to stretch the upper in removing the last. A small triangular toe piece of fiberboard or other insole material is then temporarily secured over the toe portion of the last. The lasting allowance at the toe is stretched in the usual manner and secured by adhesive. Accordingly, the toe portion of the shoe has the advantages of a lasted shoe.
A heel seat or insole piece is similarly secured temporarily over the heel portion of the last and the lasting allowance at the back of the upper is similarly lasted thereto and secured with adhesive. Accordingly, both the toe and heel portions of the shoe are constructed in a manner similar to that of a cemented-lasted shoe, but the insole is interrupted and is free of the upper in a region between the toe and heel, thereby providing flexibility and comfort with a shaped toe and heel. The bottom seam of the upper is ironed out and a conventional outsole and heel are attached by adhesive in the conventional manner. Finally, the last is removed, and the heel may be further fastened by nailing from the inside.
More specifically, in utilizing this construction, it is preferable to use a light weight leather upper, for example 1.5 to 2.0 ounces, and a relatively heavy lining which is ice initially cemented to the upper. The lining should be of suificient weight to give body to the upper, and it may be a fleece-back lining, cotton-print lining or faille.
Other features will be in part apparent from and in part pointed out in the following detail description, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:
Fig. 1 is a perspective view illustrating a complete shoe manufactured in accordance with the process of this invention;
Fig. 2 is a longitudinal vertical section of the shoe illustrated in Fig. 1;
Fig. 3 is a plan view of the upper before sewing;
Fig. 4 is a perspective illustrating the upper in a partially completed condition; and
Fig. 5 is a perspective view illustrating the upper secured around the last and certain steps in the process of lasting the toe and heel.
Referring to the drawings, there is shown a slipper having an upper 1, an outsole 3 and heel 5. The .toe and heel portions of the upper are shaped on a last, but the manner of construction is somewhat difierent from that commonly employed in lasted shoes. Referring to Fig. 2, the insole is formed in two parts, there being a small toe piece 7 and a longer heel and instep portion 9.
In manufacturing this shoe, a piece of leather upper material 11 is cut to proper shape and secured, as by adhesive to a similarly cut lining 13 (Fig. 3). Preferably, the lining is of rather heavy material, in order to provide strength, whereas the leather upper is lightweight. In outline, the upper has a center cut 15 and curved end margins 17. The end margins 17 are adapted to be secured together, as by a zig-zag back seam, with a heel stay strip 19, whereupon the upper assumes a cone-like shape similar to that of a conventional upper before lasting. The center opening 15 has a binding applied in the conventional manner, and a counter (not shown) may be provided in a suitable counter pocket at the back.
The outer margin of the upper has indented cuts 21 near the heel, the lining being inset further as indicated at 23. Curved edges 25 then lead forwardly to notches 27, which define a toe portion 29, wherein portions of the lining are again inset from the edge of the leather.
The curved edges 25 are adapted to be brought into abutting relationship with one another and secured by a line of zig-zag stitching 30, which extends from an inch or so short of the toe back to the beginning of the instep. The indented edges 21 are spaced apart a half inch or so, thus leaving an opening at the heel and instep for receiving the insole part 9. As such, there is a lasting allowance at the toe 29, heel and instep 21.
This partially completed upper is fitted over a last L and lasted to the insole pieces 7 and 9. The top piece 7 is a small triangular member formed of stiff fiberboard or the like. It is of a length such as to extend back and overlap with front of the upper defined by notch-forming edges 27, this back portion of the toe piece being skived or feathered at 31 for better comfort. The skived lap margin 31 is adhesive secured to the outer part of the upper over the line of stitching 30, whereas the pointed part is temporarily fastened to the last in the customary manner, as by tacks T. The lasting allowance 29 at the toe of the upper is then stretched over the last and adhesively secured to the toe piece 7 of the insole.
The heel and instep are lasted in the same way, the insole piece 9 first being inserted through the opening between edges 21 and temporarily secured to the last. Actually, both insole pieces 7 and 9 are inserted and tacked, and cement is then sprayed under the toe piece lap margin 31 and around the lasting allowance of the upper. The seam 30 and other portions of the bottom may be moistened and ironed out, and thereafter, a pretrimmed outsole and heel are applied, as by heat-sensitive adhesive. When the last is removed, the heel may be secured by nailing from the inside. Preferably, the last is of the type that can be shortened, thereby avoiding distortion, in removing the last.
From the above, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the shoe and method of constructing same oifer certain advantages over more conventional shoes and methods of shoe construction. The sole is light in Weight and very flexible, as compared with a conventional full insole lasted shoe, yet the appearance and fit are substantially the same as a conventional lasted shoe. While only one embodiment is disclosed in detail, various modifications 'are possible, without departing from the spirit ofthe invention or scope thereof, as set forth in' A light flexible shoe comprising an upper having an innerlining and an outer layer secured thereto, said outer layerhaving bottom marginal portions projecting beyond said inner liner at the front and back thereof to form front and back lasting allowances, the intermediate bottom edges of said inner liner and outer layer being substantially coextensive and being sewn together in substantial abutting relationship, separate front and back insole members, said front and back lasting allowances of the upper being cement lasted to said front and back insole members, respectively, and an outsole secured to the bottom of said shoe.
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