US 2999323 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
Sept. 12, 1961 J BOZZA 2,999,323
MOCCASINS AND FOOTWEAR Original Filed Dec. 17, 1956 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR. $055, 14 3- 30224 i L Arron/E 15.
P 1961 J. D. BOZZA 2,999,323
MOCCASINS AND FOOTWEAR Original Filed Dec. 17, 1956 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 l N V EN TOR. J55 5PH D 502 2A p 1961 J. D. BOZZA 2,999,323
MOCCASINS AND FOOTWEAR Original Filed Dec. 17, 1956 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTOR. JOSEPH D 50224 ATTORA/EVJ 2,999,323 MOCCASINS AND FOOTWEAR Joseph D. Bozza, Jersey City, N.J., assignor to The Jo-An Shoe Manufacturing Co. Inc, Fairlawn, N.J., a corporation of New Jersey Original application Dec. 17, 1956, Ser. No. 628,928, now Patent No. 2,946,069, dated July 26, 1960. Divided and this application July 3, 1958, Ser. No. 747,105 4 Claims. (CI. 36-11) The present invention relates generally to moccasin footwear, and is particularly directed to moccasin footwear having an improved vamp construction resulting from novel methods of manufacture. The present appli cation is a division of my prior application Serial No. 628,928, filed December 17, 1956, for Method of Manufacturing Moccasins and Articles Made Thereby, now Patent No. 2,946,069, issued July 26, 1960, which application in turn is a continuation-in-part of my prior application Serial No. 391,458, filed November 12, 1953, for "Method for Securing Together Moccasin Vamps and Plugs, which issued as Patent No. 2,774,087 on December 18, 1956.
Specifically, in one form, the invention relates to the manufacture of a true one-piece genuine moccasin by novel means that not only completely eliminate the onerous handwork until now inherent, but, do so at greatly reduced costs while yet enhancing the overall appearance of the shoe.
A true moccasin in which the sole and vamp portions are included in a single continuous piece of material brought together with an instep part or plug, has forever presented the problem of reducing the much greater peripheral length of the vamp piece down to coincide with the smaller peripheral length of the plug, so that the two can then be properly secured, thus forming the complete shoe.
Heretofore, this transformation was accomplished either by hand lacing, wherein the outer edge of the vamp was gathered, stitch by stitch, to the plug, or by means of various other ways known in the patented art, such as cementing the parts together to hold until sewing; molding the vamp piece with heat and pressure devices to force its perimeter to coincide with the line of the smaller plug; or, in a more recent patent, fastening the plug and vamp together by hand lacing as always but then stitching by machine underneath so that the original lacing margin could finally be trimmed off the top.
Other methods which have been employed to simulate the moccasin effect are legion. One in particular takes notches out of the front line of the vamp, then sews together the open Vs thusly drawing up the vamp to meet with the plug line. Another completely cuts out that part of the vamp piece which normally would become the sole in a genuine moccasin, and stitches in the plug first, since now the two lines will coincide, after which the sole is either sewed or cemented in place. These, of course, are only imitations.
The present invention, however, brings a true one-piece vamp and sole member to the proper size for exact juxtaposition with the plug in one simple sewing operation. The two parts are then fastened together with an overlapping type of machine stitch, which most neatly produces the effects of hand-sewing. When this shoe is completed it presents a much dressier, more uniform type of moccasin than ever possible by hand, and does so with great economies because of saving of time and reduction in required skill of the Workman.
The present invention also relates to further improved moccasin constructions having a greatly enhanced appearance and fit over conventionally produced moccasins, while retaining the advantages of simplicity and economy States Fatent G of machine manufacture. These further constructions are producible by adaptations and extensions of the method described and claimed in my said parent application Serial No. 391,458. I
Other objects of the present invention will become apparent upon reading the following specification and referring to the accompanying drawings which form a material part of this disclosure.
The invention accordingly consists in the features of construction, combinations and arrangements of elements, which will be exemplified in the construction hereinafter described, and of which the scope will be indicated by the appended claims.
In the drawings:
FIG. 1 is a perspective view showing oneforrn of true one-piece moccasin constructed in accordance with the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a plan view showing a one-piece sole and vamp blank before assembly in the moccasin of FIG. 1.
FIG. 3 is a plan view showing a plug blank before assembly in the moccasin of FIG.
FIG. 4 is a plan view showing the one-piece sole and vamp blank in FIG. 2 in an intermediate stage of manufacture.
FIG. 5 is an enlarged, fragmentary perspective view illoGwing a detail of the construction of the moccasin of FIG. 6 is a fragmentary, greatly enlarged view showing in detail a feature of construction of one embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 7 is a fragmentary perspective view of an inter mediate stage of manufacture of a modification of the moccasin structure of FIGS. 1-6, with a different manner of joining the plug to the one-piece sole and vamp blank.
FIG. 8 is a fragmentary view of a portion of the con struction of FIG. 7, showing a cross-section of the seam thereof.
FIG. 9 is a fragmentary perspective view showing a true one-piece moccasin constructed in accordance with the modification of FIGS. 7 and 8.
FIG. 10 is a fragmentary sectional view of the coristruction of FIG. 9 showing the seam thereof.
FIG. 11 is a plan view showing a one-piece lower blank for a further modified form of moccasin construction, the blank serving to form the sole and part of the vamp of the completed moccasin.
FIG. 12 is a plan view showing an upper blank to he used together with the blank of FIG. 11, and forming a portion of the vamp and the upper of the modified form of moccasin.
FIG. 13 is a top perspective view showing the blank of FIG. 11 in an intermediate stage of manufacture and before assembly in the completed moccasin.
FIG. 14 is a fragmentary view of a portion of the blank of FIG. 12 in an intermediate stage of manufacture and before assembly in the completed moccasin.
FIG. 15 is a top View of the blanks of FIGS. 13 and 14 sewn together in an intermediate stage of manufacture.
FIG. 16 is a side view of the complete modified moccasin construction according to FIGS. 11-15.
Referring now more particularly to the drawings, the embodiment of the invention illustrated therein comprises a moccasin, generally designated 20, including a sole, a 1
vamp or upper 21, a plug 22 secured in the fore part of the vamp, and a collar 23 extending along the edge of the vamp rearwardly of the plug 22 and enclosing the lace 24.
The vamp 21 is formed from the blank 30 which has a curved front portion 31 and a scalloped rear portion 32. The margin of the front portion 31 is adapted to be drawn up from the sole portion to form the moccasin vamp or upper 21, the rear portion 32 being laced or otherwise secured together to form the moccasin back. The fore 3 part ofpl-ug 22 is then arranged with its diverging edges 33 and 34 and front curved edge 35 secured to the drawnup front edges 36 and 37 of: the vamp and sole blank 39, as by the. stitching 38. V
' More particularly, the curved front edges 36 and 37 of the blank 30 are provided with aplurality of relatively minute, contiguous substantially uniform gathers or crimps 39, and a cord ortape 40 is. secured alongthe gathered edges; 36 and 37 by stitching 4'1,,to permanently retain the curved front edges of the blank 30' in their gathered condition and the front margins of the blank drawn up.
The cord or tape 40 must be non-elastic, or inextensible, providing a maximum of restraining; force;
Referring to FIGS. 7-10, the present invention also" includes a modified form of construction and method of fabrication, in which by minor changes in steps'from the method described above, a genuine moccasin is formed without the ridged seam extending around the plug as in thecaseof the embodiment shown in FIG. 1.
The method followed to form this modified construction starts with the blanks of FIGS; 2 and 3, the onepiece sole and vamp blank of FIG. 2 being gathered to gether at its toe end and sewn to the cord as described above and shown in FIG. 4. The present modification resides in the manner in which the plug blank ofFIG. 3 is" assembled to the-sole and vamp blank of FIG. 4.
In this modified construction, the processed blank of FIG. 4 is assembled with and sewn to the plug blank 22 in the same manner as in FIG. I but in an insideout condition: that is, the cord 40 is on the outer face of the pocket formed in. the toe portion of the blank so, and the plug 22 is placed within the pocket formed in the vamp blank 30, with its inside surface facing outwardly and with the edges 33 and 34 of the plug 22 and itsfront edge 35 placed flat against and aligned with the front edges 36 and 37 of the sole and vamp blank 30. In this position what will ultimately become the outwardly facing surfaces of the plug, sole and vamp are flat together in juxtaposition. In this position the vamp and plug are sewn together in a conventional simple overlapping or over-edge type of sewing machine, such as Singer Model 176-34 furriers machine. The resultant intermediate stage of the manufacture thus obtained is illustrated in FIGS. 7 and 8. Each stitch then has a single thread running through-the vamp and plug pieces, and the locking loop 82 of each stitch is then preferably located on the side where the cord 48 islocated. This unfinished product is then turned inside out. In so doing, the stitches finally appearing on theoutside will then ap pear as short straight threads 61 extending substantially vertically and in parallel spaced relation around the sewn periphery of the plug.
in addition, by suitably selecting the tightness of stitching, the edges of the vamp and plug can be made to abut rather than to overlap or be parallel, so that the plug forms a smooth continuation of the vamp and is joined thereto by the stitches 61, shown in FIGS. 9 and 10.
The stitches 61 can thus be made part of the decorative aspect of the moccasin. The plug 22 and the vamp 21 may be made of'contrasting materials or colors, and the stitches may be made to contrast with the materials of the plug and vamp so asto adda decorative aspect to the moccasin.
The moccasin of FIG. 9 is then finished in the same manner as shown in FIG. 1, with a collar 23 extending around the remaining portion of the vamp 21. to which the plug 22 is not sewn. A lace 24 may be added.
In moccasins of the type described above, the vamp along the side of the foot, particularly at the arch of the foot, is formed of the same piece of material as the sole. This material while flexible, is not elastic, and accordingly cannot conform well to the foot, particularly around the-arch and the side of thefoot. Accordingly, in conventional moccasins aswell asin the moccasins described above,.there isv no closeconformity between the moccasin and the foot at the arch or side of the foot intermediate the toe and heel portions.
The further modified construction shown in FIGS. 11 through 16 overcomes this, and provides a construction which conforms more closely to the foot while permitting further decorative aspects to be added or included. It further contributes a swivel action? which maintains the moccasin in betterv conformity with the foot during walking.
In this modified construction, a line of stitching sin1- ilar to that shown at 61 in FIG. 9, is utilized not only around the part of the moccasin corresponding to the junction between the plug and the vamp but also completely around the sides and back. In effect, the regular vamp and upper is separated horizontally into two sections, one above the other. For this purpose only the lower part of the vamp and upper is integral with the sole. The upper part of the vamp is integral with the plug and is continued integrally around the back and sidesof the moccasin as part of the upper. Nevertheless, since the sole is integral with the lower vamp portion end with, the lower part of the shoe upper, the genuine moccasin construction is retained. This will be more clearly apparentfrom FIGS. 11 and 12 which show respectively the flatsole blank. and the flat upper blank.
The fiat sole blank 60 generally conforms to the outline ofthe foot or. the impression of a foot on a fiat surface. The center portion 62 forms the sole of the completed moccasin while the periphery. 63 forms part of the lower portion ofthevamp and upper as will be described. Lo eating tipsor points 64 may be formed in each blanki60 or 65 to assist in the further steps of fabrication.
The. upper blank, 65, shown in FIG. 12 includ'esa front-central portion 66. serving the same functionas the plug or the previousconstruction. This plug portion 66 is nearly surrounded by a peripheral portion 69 forming the upper part of the vamp of the completed moccasin. Thetongue portion. 67 is contiguous with the plug portion 66, and bothof them. together with the peripheral portion 69 form an upper piece serving the func tion.0f a conventional plug and of part of a conventional vamp. Furthermore a pair of upper strips or tabs 68 extending backwardly fromthe peripheral vamp portion 69. These strips 68 form part of the upper of the.
The blank of FIG. 11: is processed in amanner similar to that shown in FIG. 4 and described above to 'form a pocket around the toe portion between the two locatv ing points 64' and to formasecond similar pocket between the two locating points 64 of the heel portion. This is shown in FIG. 13, showing the toe pocket 78 and the heel pocket 79' formed in the sole blank 60. Asia the caseof FIG. 4, the cord 40 is sewn near the periph-- zag stitching, as: shown in FIG. 14, and this seam is then; reenforced. by a reenforcing piece 74 sewn by stitching 73 to to' both strips 68 and illustrated again in FIG: 14. In this way the back is closed.
The two operations illustrated'in FIGS. 13 and 14 are designed so that the periphery of'the partially formed blank" 60 of FIG. 13' is equal to that of the partially formed blank 65 of FIG. 12. These'two partially formed blanks are then juxtaposed with their edges aligned and with what will be their outer surfaces flat againstoncf another. In effect the blank. 65 ofFIG. 12 is placed inside the. blank 60 ofFIG. 11 with their edges aligned and their surfaces in contact. The two blanks are then sewn together about their complete periphery in. the
same manner as described with respect to FIG. 7 with an.
over-edgeor overlapping stitclu The article thus formed isshown in FIG; 15.
It is then turned inside out and the edges of the two blanks are made to abut one another so that the upper blank forms a smooth continuation of the sole blank as seen in FIG. 16. The blanks are so cut that the line of stitching 75, as shown in FIG. 15, extends completely around the entire side of the foot, and preferably uniformly spaced above the sole, so that an ornamental row of parallel stitching 75 as shown in FIG. 16 appears completely encircling the moccasin.
Because of the fact that part of the vamp is integral with the sole blank, and part is formed of the upper blank by suitably shaping or designing the shapes of the edges of the blanks, the moccasin may be made to conform more closely to the arch and side of the foot intermediate the toe and sole portions than was formerly the case When the vamp and sole were one piece. As a result a better fitting and better appearing article of footwear is produced while preserving all the advantages and desirable appearance of the genuine moccasin, since the sole is integral with the vamp. In addition, the line of stitching 75 provides a hinging or swiveling action between the two pieces of the moccasin, which causes the moccasin to remain in better relation with the foot during flexure in Wearing and walking.
To finish off the remaining cut edges of the upper blank a suitable edging 76 may be sewn completely around the aperture formed by the upper part of the blank and the top. Sock linings, innersoles, outersoles and heels may be attached as desired. This article of footwear therefore not only lends itself to the simple processes and steps described above, requiring no handstitching whatever, but in addition provides a better fitting moccasin which can be fabricated for style in two-tone effects and with a desirable ornamental appearance.
It will be understood that the novel features of the present invention may be employed in connection with genuine moccasins with or without hard soles, such construction being omitted from the drawings for purposes of clarity.
From the foregoing, it is seen that the present invention fully accomplishes its intended objects, and provides a construction well adapted to meet practical conditions of use.
Although the prment invention has been described in some detail by way of illustration and example for purposes of clarity of understanding, it is understood that certain changes and modifications may be made within the spirit of the invention and the scope of the appended claims.
What is claimed is:
1. A genuine moccasin footwear construction comprising an integral sole and peripheral upper portion, said peripheral upper portion having its edge gathered to form a pocket at each end, a non-extensible cord secured by stitches to the gathered edge of and on the inner surface of each of said pockets to retain the shape of said pockets, a front-central upper piece contiguous with a pair of upper strips extending rearwardly from said upper piece said strips being joined at their rear ends in abutting relation to form a closed peripheral edge, the peripheral length of the edge of said upper portion in gathered condition being substantially equal to that of said upper piece and strips, said upper portion being joined in edge-abutting relation with the upper piece and strips throughout their entire peripheries by equally spaced substantially parallel stitches extending across the line of abutment of said edges.
2. A genuine moccasin footwear construction comprising an integral sole and peripheral upper portion, said peripheral upper portion having its edge gathered to form a pocket at each end, a non-extensible cord secured by stitches to the gathered edge of and on the inner surface of each of said pockets to retain the shape of said pockets, a front-central upper piece, a pair of upper strips extending rearwardly from said upper piece, said strips being joined at their rear ends to form a. closed peripheral edge, the peripheral length of the edge of said upper portion in gathered condition being substantially equal to that of said upper piece and strips, said upper portion being joined in edge-abutting relation with the upper piece and strips throughout their entire peripheries by equally spaced substantially parallel stitches extending across the line of abutment of said edges.
3. A footwear construction comprising a unitary sole and peripheral upper portion, said peripheral upper portion having its edge gathered to form a pocket at each end, a cord secured by stitches to the gathered edge of and on the inner surface of each of said pockets to retain the shape of said pockets, a front-central upper piece, a pair of upper strips extending rearwardly from said upper piece, said strips being joined at their rear ends to form a closed peripheral edge, the peripheral length of the edge of said upper portion in gathered condition being substantially equal to that of said upper piece and strips, said upper portion being joined in edge-abutting relation with the upper piece and strips throughout their entire peripheries by equally spaced stitches extending across the line of abutment of said edges.
4. A footwear construction comprising a sole and peripheral upper portion, said peripheral upper portion having its edge gathered to form a pocket at each end, a cord secured to the gathered edge of and on the inner surface of each of said pockets to retain the shape of said pockets, a front-central upper piece, a pair of upper strips extending rearwardly from said upper piece, said strips being joined at their rear ends to form a closed peripheral edge, the peripheral length of the edge of said upper portion. in gathered condition being substantially equal to that of said upper piece and strips, said upper portion being joined in edge-abutting relation with the upper piece and strips throughout their entire peripheries by stitches extending across the line of abutment of said edges.
References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS D. 62,687 Baxter July 24, 1923 910,677 Hanson et a1. Jan. 26, 1909 1,052,133 Curtin et al Feb. 4, 1913 1,370,643 Hadaway Mar. 8, 1921 1,665,763 Wiel Apr. 10, 1928 2,302,579 Shields Nov. 17, 1942 2,774,087 Bozza Dec. 8, 1956 FOREIGN PATENTS 651,121 France Oct. 8, 1928 365,641 Great Britain Ian. 25, 1932 7,882 Australia Feb. 23, 1933 851,798 France Oct. 9, 1939