US 3150621 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
p 1964 w. K. WARNOCK 3,150,621
EQUIPMENT FOR MANUFACTURING CORDED GARMENT WAISTBANDS 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed April 29, 1963 \/W/L/AM K. WARNOGK BY 33 53 ATTORNEY W. K. WARNOCK Sept. 29, 1964 EQUIPMENT FOR MANUFACTURING CORDED GARMENT WAISTBANDS Filed April 29, 1963 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 /V//V//V/ INVENTOR. W/L LIAM K. WAR/VOOK ATTORNEY United States Patent 3,150,621 EQUIPMENT F011 MANUFACTURENG CORDED GARMENT WAHSTBANDS William K. Warnoclr, Kenttieid, Calif, assignor, by mesne assignments, to Korati-on Company, Inc, a corporation of California Filed Apr. 29, 1963, Ser. No. 276,587 3 Claims. (Cl. 1122) The invention, in general, relates to outerwear, and more particularly relates to methods and apparatus for producing garments which are form fitting and neat appearing about the hips of a wearer as well as having enhanced attractiveness, and which are provided with expandable and contractible components at the waistline thereof to afford self adjustment in all wearer sizes including slightly under-size and slightly over-size wearers.
The present improvements are directed to and have as a primary object the provision of garments in which either individual elastic cords are incorporated and confined wi-thin the garment fabric at the waistline or a yieldable component is incorporated in the garment fabric at the waistline in a manner to simulate individual cords thereby affording a yielding waistline for all sizes of garments which will accommodate in-between sizes Within normal requirements of off-size wearers.
Another important object of my invention is to provide corded and simulated corded waistbands for removable attachment to a garment whereby not only is there afforded a self-adjusting waistline for a wearer thereof but also there is afforded a neat and attractive garment which can readily be altered by replacing a plain tightfitting waistband for the corded and simulated corded band, and vice versa, at will.
A still further object of the present invention is to provide improved equipment for facile and rapid manufacture of my improved corded and simulated corded garment waistlines, as well as removably attached waistbands, at minimum expense.
Other objects of the invention, together with some of the advantageous features thereof, will appear from the following description of a preferred embodiment and certain modified embodiments of my invention. It is to be understood, however, that I am not to be limited to the precise embodiments shown nor to the precise arrangement of the various components thereof or to the precise order of steps set forth, as my invention, as defined in the appended claims, can be embodied in a plurality and variety of forms and can be carried out in a plurality and variety of ways.
Referring to the drawings:
FIG. 1 is a fragmentary perspective view of a preferred embodiment of the present invention as exemplified in equipment for manufacturing garments with waistlines having individual elastic cords confined in the garment fabric at the waistline.
FIG. 2 is a fragmentary detail showing a portion of the equipment of FIG. 1 as well as showing the movement of garment fabric, lining and elastic cords at one stage of the method of manufacturing the garments with corded waistlines.
FIG. 3 is a bottom perspective view of one of the elements of my improved equipment for manufacturing garments with corded waistlines.
FIG. 4 is a schematic sectional view of a garment waistline incorporating individual elastic cords within a porous fabric of which the garment is made as well as a lining and a color-stop strip to prevent the color of the elastic cords being seen through the fabric.
FIG. 5 is a schematic sectional view of a so-called high rise garment and illustrating an exemplification of a preferred embodiment of the invention wherein the waistline of the garment confines individual elastic cords within a fold of the garment fabric at the waistline thereof.
FIG. 6 is a fragmentary perspective view of a modified embodiment of the invention as exemplified in a method of and equipment for manufacturing garments as well as adjusting waist bands embodying simulated corded finish at the waistline.
FIG. 7 is a fragmentary front elevational view of one component of the modified embodiment of equipment for making the modified embodiment of the invention, this view illustrating the materials at one stage of the process.
FIG. 8 is a schematic sectional elevation of a waistline construction for a garment made of porous fabric and with the equipment of FIG. 6.
FIG. 9 is another schematic sectional elevational view of a garment waistband made in accordance with my modified mode of production utilizing the modified embodiment of equipment shown in FIGS. 6 and 7.
FIG. 10 is a fragmentary perspective view of a preferred embodiment of the invention, as exemplified in a skirt with full corded waistline.
FIG. 11 is a fragmentary perspective view of an exemplifioation of the modified embodiment of my invention with a skirt waistline of simulated cord finish.
FIG. 12 is a fragmentary perspective view of a preferred embodiment of the invention, as exemplified in a skirt with partial corded or simulated corded finish and partly plain garment material.
In its preferred mode, the method of my present invention for producing garments with corded finish at the waistlines thereof preferably comprises the steps of enclosing a plurality of individual elastic cords each maintained under slight tension and in spaced relation to one another within a garment waistline hem and a continuous strip of folded lining and simultaneously feeding the garment hem and folded lining with confined spaced apart elastic cords to a multi-needle sewing machine under a presser foot having a series of grooves therein for passing said elastic cords and for holding the same 'in spaced relationship and enclosed within said garment hem and said lining while effecting the stitching of the said garment hem and said lining together on opposite sides of said elastic cords by said multi-needle sewing machines.
The preferred mode of producing the modified embodiment of my present invention in a simulated cord waistline on garments preferably comprises the steps of -Wlt'lli1'1 the grooves of said presser foot.
A preferred embodiment of the invention in my im proved equipment for manufacturing garments with elastic cord finish at the waistlines thereof preferably comprises, in combination with a multi-needle sewing machine, a presser foot adjustably mounted on said sewing machine; said presser foot having a plurality of longitudinally extending grooves in its bottom surface arranged in spaced relationship and also having a plurality of needle passages extending from the top through the bottom thereof between said grooves, means for continuously feeding a plurality of individual elastic cords to said multi-needle sewing machine, means for maintaining said cords under tension during the feeding of said cords to said sewing machine, together with a guide through which said cords are passed, means in said guide for maintaining said tensioned cords in spaced parallel relation to one another in alignment with said grooves of said presser foot; said guide having a fiat upper surface over which a waistline portion of a garment fabric may be passed with a fold of said portion underlying the guide, means for feeding a length of lining to said sewing machine along with the passing of said garment fabric and said cords, a folder for passing and folding said lining adjacent to said presser foot and to present the same in underlying relation to said cords and to said garment fabric to enclose said cords between said lining and said garment fabric during the operation of said sewing machine and the continuous feeding of said garment fabric and said elastic cords and said lining whereby said garment fabric and said lining are stitched together with rows of stitching on opposite sides of said elastic cords to present an elastic cord finish about a garment waistline with the cords arranged in substantially parallel spaced relationship.
A modified embodiment of my invention as exemplified in equipment for manufacturing garments having simu lated cord waistlines preferably comprises, in combination with a multi-needle sewing machine, a presser foot adjustably mounted on said sewing machine; said presser foot having a plurality of longitudinally extending grooves in its bottom surface arranged in spaced relation to one another and having needle passages therethrough between said grooves, means for feeding a folded length of bias cut fabric to said sewing machine, a guide supported adjacent to said presser foot and upon which a portion of said folded bias-cut fabric is disposed during the feeding thereof to said sewing machine with a portion of said folded bias-cut fabric underlying said guide, together with means for feeding a continuous strip of elastic material through said guide to said sewing machine simultaneously with the feeding of said bias-cut fabric with the strip of elastic material confined between said portions of folded bias-cut fabric as it passes under said presser foot whereby the fabric and strip of elastic are stitched together with spaced rows of stitching during operation of said sewing machine and the elastic strip and fabric fills the grooves of said presser foot between each row of stitching.
As illustrated particularly in FIGS. 1 and 2 of the annexed drawings, my improved method is preferably carried out with a conventional multi-needle sewing machine, which is designated generally by the reference numeral 11 and which presents a working surface 12 at a convenient level for an operator. The number of needles 13 carried in the head 14 of the sewing machine can vary and is dependent upon the desired width of the waistline or waistband of the particular garment wherein my improved expansible and contractible waistline construction is incorporated. The sewing machine 11 includes all of the standard components for continuously feeding thread, not shown, to each of the needles 13 as well as mechanism, also not shown, for feeding materials beyond the needles after being stitched. A pair of conventional material-pulling rollers 16 and 17 are provided in overlying and underlying relation, respectively, to the working surface 12 of the machine, to draw the material taut while being sewn and for assisting in moving the material through the machine; the upper roller 16 being an idler roller and being rotatably mounted in a yoke 18 by means of a pin 19, while the lower roller 17 is driven from the power means, not shown, for operating the sewing machine 11. A suitable hand-operable lever 21 engageable upon any selected one of a plurality of jacking pins 22 is provided for adjusting the idler roller 16 in relation to the working surface 12 of the machine.
In accordance with the present invention, a specially constructed presser foot, generally designated by the reference numeral 23, is adjustably mounted by means of an apertured integral boss 24 and a set-screw 26 on a vertically disposed post 27 depending from the frame 28 of the sewing machine 11 so as to present the forward end of the presser foot in underlying relation to the row of needles 13 depending from the head 14. As shown particularly in FIGS. 2 and 3, the presser foot 23 is fashioned with a plurality of longitudinally extending grooves 29 arranged in parallel spaced relationship to one another on its bottom surface to define a plurality of toes 31 on the bottom thereof intermediate the grooves 29 and at opposite sides of the bottom of the presser foot. Moreover, the presser foot 23 is so formed as to provide a row of passages, not shown, opening through the top surface of the presser foot, as at 32, as well as opening through the bottom surface of the presser foot, as at 33, for the passage of the needles 13; it being especially noted that such passages extend through those portions of the presser foot as to open at the bottom surface through the toes 31 thereof. Thus, all stitching performed by the needles 13 is on opposite sides of each of the grooves 29 in the bottom surface of the presser foot 23, such lines of stitching being indicated by the dotted line showings of FIG. 2 and indicating spaced apart parallel extending lines of stitching designated by the reference numeral 34. In stitching operations, the presser foot 23 is so vertically adjusted that the toes 31 of the foot bear upon the work being stitched.
In addition to the unique presser foot 23 I also provide a specially constructed guide which is designated genererally by the reference numeral 36 and which is adjustably supported by means of a pin and slot adjustment to a flat strip 37 secured to the top 38 of a table 39 disposed in close proximity to the sewing machine with its top surface 33 at the same level as the working surface 12 of the sewing machine. To this end, the guide 36 is formed with an integral laterally extending arm 41 fashioned with an elongated slot 42 therein for passing a pair of threaded pins 43 which extend into the underlying strip 37, and I provide wing-nuts 44 for turning down upon pins 43 to engage the arm 41 of the guide 36 and secure the same in proper aligned position in relation to the presser foot 23. T o adjust the guide, it is only necessary to losen the wing-nuts 44 and move the arm 41 as well as its slot 42 in relation to the pins 43 to the desired extent and then re-tighten the wing-nuts 44. As illustrated in FIG. 1, the guide 36 supports in rearwardly extended relation a plurality of tubes 46 which are rigidly held in parallel spaced relation to one another by a strap 47, such tubes being bent downwardly at their outer ends, as at 48, for receiving a plurality of individual elastic cords 49. In accordance with my present invention, individual spools of elastic cord, not shown, are supported adjacent the table 39 and each individual cord 49 is unwound from its corresponding spool during the operation of the sewing machine to pass through a conventional tensioning device 51. As shown, a row of tensioners 51, one for each elastic cord 49, is mounted on a suitable supporting bar 52, and the individual cords, thus tensioned, are delivered individually to the series of parallel tubes 46 at their downwardly bent outer ends to be passed therethrough to the grooves 29 of the presser foot 23 which are aligned with the tubes 46 and which maintain the individual cords 49 in parallel spaced relation to one another during the stitching operations.
The improved equipment of my present invention to manufacture garment waistlines containing rows of individual elastic cords also includes a folder 53 which is supported at an incline below the guide 36 and which has its inner end supported in close proximity to the presser foot 23; such folder 53 serving to pass and to fold over the lateral extremities S6 and 57 of a strip 53 of lining as indicated in FIG. 2 of the drawings, as well as to deliver the strip of lining 58 to a point 59, see FIG. 1, between the inner end of the guide 36 and the presser foot 23 in underlying relation to the row of elastic cords 49 which, in turn, are delivered to the presser foot 23 in underlying relation to a length of garment fabric 61. The fabric 61 is manually positioned by an operator by tucking an edge thereof under the guide 36 to provide an inturned deep hem 62 thereon, and the operator, holding the same in line with the guide, feeds the sewing machine with the three components; namely, the garment fabric 61 on top with its underlying deep hem 62, the folded lining 58 on the bottom and the plurality of slightly tensioned individual cords 49 enclosed therebetween all directed to the presser foot with the cords 49 entering the grooves 29 of the foot. The operator starts the sewing machine to produce the series of lines of stitching 34 with the individual elastic cords 49 confined in pockets bounded on the upper or outer side of the garment by the garment fabric 61 and on the lower or inside of the garment by the lining 58. If the garment fabric 61 is porous, the waistline construction of my present invention can include a strip 63 of opaque material intermediate the fabric 61 and the cords 49 as a color stop, inasmuch as the individual cords 49 are usually fabricated of either black or white elastic; such color stop strip 63 conveniently being unwound from a roll, not shown, and fed to the presser foot 23 through an opening 64 formed in the top of the guide 36, see FIG. 1 and see FIG. 4 for a waistline construction incorporating such color stop strip 63.
The method of manufacturing a preferred embodiment of garment waistline, which is indicated in schematic cross-section in FIGS. 4 and 5 of the annexed drawings, one with color-stop strip 63 and one without such strip, and which is designated therein generally by the reference numeral 66, is substantially continuous and it is only necessary to maintain the supplies of thread for the sewing machine needles 13, of the elastic cords 49, of the lining strip 58 and of the fabric 61 to avoid stoppages. It is to be understood that the waistline construction 66, as shown in FIGS. 4 and 5, is embodied in so-called highrise garments with the upper portion of a skirt underfolded as at 62 to provide the inturned hem and further that the method and equipment is entirely suitable for manufacturing separate waistbands of substantially similar construction as the integral waistline 66 of the garment using instead, however, pre-cut garment band of both fabric and lining. I have shown in perspective view in FIG. of the annexed drawings a waistline construction affording expansion and contraction and manufactured with parallel rows of confined or enclosed individual elastic cords 49 extending entirely about the waist, each of which protrudes slightly, as indicated at 49' in FIG. 2, from the base plane of the waistline to lend an attractive corded appearance to the garment at such waistline.
It is within the scope and purview of my present invention to provide a waistline construction for garments as indicated in FIG. 12 of the drawings and designated generally by the reference numeral 66. In this waistline construction a portion 71 thereof is made expansible and contractible by embodying in such portion 71 of the waistline either the waistline construction 66 as manufactured with the equipment shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 or a waistline construction of the type shown in FIGS. 8 and 9 and manufactured with the equipment shown in FIGS. 6 and 7 as hereinafter more particularly described. The remainder 72 of the waistline construction illustrated in FIG. 12 may be of plain fabric preferably similar to the fabric of which the garment is made.
In accordance with my present improvement, I provide a method and equipment for producing a garment with a modified embodiment of the invention as exemplified in a simulated corded waistline construction, shown schematically in FIGS. 8 and 9 and in fragmentary perspective view in FIG. 11 of the annexed drawings; such modified embodiment of waistline being generally designated by the reference numeral 166. As shown in FIGS. 6 and 7, I provide a standard multi-needle sewing machine 111 having a working surface 112 at a desired level and operable with a plurality of needles 113 which depend in spaced relationship to one another from a head 114. The machine 111 may be equipped with the usual pulling rollers, not shown, for aiding in the passage of work to be sewn under a specially constructed presser foot 123 which is in all respects similar to the presser foot 23 shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 and which is adjustably mounted by means of an apertured integral boss 124 and a setscrew 126 on a post 127 depending from the frame 128 of the sewing machine 111; said specially constructed presser foot 123 being formed with a plurality of longitudinally extending grooves 129, arranged in parallel spaced relation in the bottom of the foot, which define a plurality of toes 131 for engaging the work as it is stitched by the operation of the sewing machine. Passages, not shown, for the needles 113 are provided in the presser-foot 123 for effecting the stitching of the work while being held down under the presser foot, the passages opening to the bottom of the foot in the areas of the toes 131, not shown, and opening to the top as indicated at 132.
The equipment for manufacturing the modified embodiment of the invention as depicted in FIGS. 8 and 9, includes a guide 136 which is preferably made of metal and which defines a guide passage 136' through which is passed under slight tension by means of a tensioner 151, a strip 153 of elastic webbing, or similar elastic material, during the operation of the machine. The tensioner 151 may be adjustably supported from the top surface 112 of the machine. A length of bias cut garment fabric 161 is draped over the guide 136 and folded under the same to provide a deep hem 162, and the hemmed garment fabric 161 together with the elastic strip 158, is fed manually to the sewing machine 111 with such fabric and underlying or enclosed elastic strip 158 passing underneath the presser foot 123. As the sewing machine needles 113 'sew the strip 158 and bias cut fabric 161 together to provide lines of stitching 134 at spaced apart locations transversely of the two strips, the lines of stitching enter the fabric and elastic webbing on opposite sides of the grooves 129 of the presser foot 123 with the result that successive portions of the two work pieces; namely, the elastic strip 158 and the bias cut fabric strip 161, enter into the grooves 129 of the presser foot thereby creating in said work pieces a series of transverse bulges simulating a series of cords 149, see FIG. 8, in transversely spaced relationship of the waistline. The lines of stitching 134 are indicated in dotted lines in FIG. 6 between the simulated cords 149' which are anchored on opposite sides thereof by such stitching 134.
The showing in FIGS. 6 and 7 depict the production of a simulated cord finish to a waistline of a so-called high rise garment. It is to be understood, of course, that predetermined lengths of a bias cut fabric 161 and of elastic material 158 can be stitched together in a similar manner on a multi-needle machine 111 using the specially constructed presser-foot 123 to provide a separate waistband for attaching in position at the top of a skirt 180, see FIGS. 10, 11, and 12. In constructing such a separate waistband, the fabric strip 161 is folded underneath the opposite sides of the guide 136 to provide inner hems 162 and 162' on the fabric, with the result that upon stitching the lines of stitching 134 will pass through the top or outer section of the fabric as well as the elastic strip 161, all as schematically shown in FIG. 9 of the accompanying drawings.
Upon constructing waistlines on a so-called high rise skirts, the waistline may be opened at the center rear thereof along with the adjacent upper portion of the skirt, and then closed with a conventional openable zipper 181, see FIGS. 10 and 11. If a separate waistband is manufactured in accordance with the method hereinabove described, it may be attached to the upper edge of the skirt and it may be lapped as shown and provided with a button hole and button 182 at the lapped ends thereof in the front of the garment as shown in FIG. 12. As indicated above, the skirt 180 can be manufactured with a waistline constructed as depicted schematically in FIGS. 4 and 5 wherein the individual elastic cords 49 extend entirely about the waistline 66 incased within pockets bounded by the garment fabric 61 on the exterior of the waistline and the lining 58 on the inside thereof next to the body of the wearer. Or, the waistline can be constructed on the garment as depicted in FIGS. 8, 9 and 11 wherein the stitching 134 anchors bulged portions 149' of the garment fabric 161 and an elastic strip 158 at a series of locations transversely of the waistline 166 to provide a simulated cord finish 14-9 entirely about the waistline; such simulated cord finish 149' being effected by stitching the fabric 161 to the elastic strip 158 while the latter is held under an adjustable tension by the tensioner 151 to attain a desired waistline measurement for the different sizes of garments. Or, the waistline construction can be as that depicted in FIG. 12 wherein the waistline, designated generally by the reference numeral 66' can comprise a rear section 71 made either with a series of individual elastic cords 49 in spaced parallel relation to one another, as in the case of the waistline construction 66 or with a simulated cord finish 149' as indicated by the waistline construction 166, see FIGS. 8, 9, and 11, while the remaining or front section 72 of the waistline 66 may be made of plain fabric.
It is to be understood that the appended claims are to be accorded a range of equivalents commensurate in scope with the advances made over the prior art.
1. Equipment for manufacturing expandable and contractible waistlines on garments; said equipment comprising, in combination, a multi-needle sewing machine, means for causing a plurality of needles in said sewing machine to be operated in unison to effect a stitching operation of a series of lines of stitching, a presser foot adjustably mounted on said sewing machine; said presser foot having a plurality of passages therethrough for passing said needles and also having a plurality of grooves in its bottom surface on opposite sides of said passage a guide supported in proximity to said presser foot over which a waistline section of a garment may be draped for feeding to said plurality of needles of said sewing machine and under said presser foot and through which a plurality of individual elastic cords may be fed into said grooves in the bottom surface of said presser foot, and a folder supported with its inner end in proximity to said presser foot and through which a continuous strip of lining may be fed in folded condition to the needles of said sewing machine in underlying relation to said individual elastic cords whereby the said cords will be confined between the waistline section of the garment and said strip of lining upon the stitching together thereof by said plurality of needles during operation of said sewing machine.
2. Equipment as defined in claim 1, and a tensioncr device for each individual elastic cord through which each of the elastic cords pass and by which it is tensioned as it is fed through said guide.
3. Equipment as defined in claim 1, and a plurality of individual tubes supported in spaced parallel relationship on said guide for receiving and maintaining the individual elastic cords in parallel spaced relationship to one another while being fed to said needles of said multi-needle sewing machine.
References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,175,322 10/39 Seaman 112-262 2,183,257 12/39 Hardie et al. 2-237 X 2,374,529 4/45 Everitt 112-2 2,633,132 3/51 Kligler et al 2-237 X 2,700,946 2/55 Stanley et al. 112-2 R 2,761,401 9/56 Dolney 112-25 X 2,843,156 7/58 Schwartz 112-2 3,064,269 11/62 Scheitlin 2-237 JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner.
ROBERT V. SLOAN, Examiner.
UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION Patent No, 3,150,621 September 29'', 1964 William Ka Warnock It is hereby certified that error appears in the above numbered patent requiring correction and that the said Letters Patent should read as corrected below.
In the grant, lines 2 and 3, and line 12, and in the heading to the printed specification, line 5, for "Koration Company, Inc. read Koratron Company, Inc
Signed and sealed this 9th day of February 1965.
ERNEST W. SWIDER EDWARD J. BRENNER Attesting Officer Commissioner of Patents