US 3449765 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
June 17, 1969 R. BEARD ET AL 3,449,765
GARMENT CONSTRUCTLON Filed Dec. 20, 196'? Sheet of 2 INVENTORS RALPH L. BEA-RD JAMES F. HESTER ATTOR NEYS June 17, 1969 R ET AL GARMENT CONSTRUCTION/ Sheet Filed Dec. 20, 1967 INVENTORS RALPH L. BEARD JAMES F. HESTER ATTORNEYS United States Patent 3,449,765 GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Ralph L. Beard and James F. Hester, Winston-Salem,
N.C., assignors to Hanes Corporation, Winston-Salem,
N.C., a corporation of North Carolina Filed Dec. 20, 1967, Ser. No. 692,031 Int. Cl. A41b 9/06 US. Cl. 2-113 6 Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A collar edge construction includes a unitary multifold colret strip which frames a neck opening of a garment body portion. -A first longitudinal fold in the colret strip forms inner and outer layers between which the body portion is located. The outer layer is further folded to provide reinforcement layers. These folds produce a double layer positioned outwardly of the outer layer and an end layer positioned inwardly of the outer layer next to the body portion. The body portion extends well between the inner and outer layers of the colret to a position Where its edge lies adjacent the first fold. The inner layer may be folded inwardly to position the end thereof next to the body portion.
This invention relates to garment construction, and more particularly to a colret construction for the neck opening of garments of the slip-over type. While not necessarily limited to any specific garment, the invention is probably most useful in knitted garments of the type commonly referred to as T-shirts.
In the manufacture of T-shirts and related slip-over garments, it is common practice to form the body of the garment from a section of knitted tubular material. A neck opening is cut in the material and this opening is finished by applying to the body of the garment what is commonly called a colret. The colret is often made of a 1 x 1 rib knit material, the material being passed through a folding machine and doubled back upon itself to provide two layers before being applied to the garment. As applied to the garment the two layers are disposed on opposite sides of the garment body material, and the free edge of the outer layer is turned under and stitched to the garment so as not to leave a raw edge outwardly of the garment. The lower edge of the inner layer is commonly left with a raw edge, and this inner raw edge is substantially covered by crows-foot stitching which attaches the colret to the garment body. Other exemplary constructions are shown in commonly assigned U. S. Patents 2,728,080, 3,296,627 and 3,281,863.
In such garments, particularly T-shirts, repeated wearing and washing often result in the neck opening or colret becoming permanently distorted because of stretching or sagging. Substantial improvements have been made over the years, but these disadvantages still persist in varying degrees. Quite often proposed designs minimized the distortion problem, but substantially impaired the appearance of the garment. Other proposed designs required multiple parts or complex folds in the colret resulting in comparatively difficult and time-consuming manufacture, often raising the cost of the garment so as to render it non-competitive.
Accordingly, it is an object of this invention to provide a reinforcing strip or neck or colret construction which is durable, yet neat and attractive, and which will retain its shape and size after repeated washing and wearing, but which can be simply and easily constructed at the same or at a reduction in cost as compared to many other constructions which attempt to achieve the same or similar characteristics.
It is a further object of this invention to provide such a neck or colret construction by utilizing a folded colret which is unitary in structure, relatively simple to fold and easy to apply to knitted garments.
It is yet a further object of the invention to provide a neck or colret construction which can be formed into a rounded or an elongated oval shape that will not sag, stretch or become distorted at its lower extremity by utilizing a simplified and durable unitary reinforcing and protecting colret structure.
It is still another object of the present invention to provide a neck or colret construction which is exceptionally strong and durable and which lessens the strain on the seams resulting from use or laundering through use of multiple folds or layers of colret material.
It is yet another object of the present invention to provide a neck or colret construction wherein purokering, curling or other distortion of the outer edge of the garment adjacent the neck of the wearer is substantially precluded.
In US. Patent 2,728,080, referred to above, there is disclosed an advantageous colret arrangement wherein the colret itself is of two-piece construction.
Llt is still a further object of the present invention to provide a colret arrangement possessing the advantages of the patented arrangement wherein the colret is of a single piece construction. Because of this feature, manufacture of the colret arrangement of the present invention requires less cutting and manipulating of the stock material thereby resulting in time and labor savings.
In accordance with the present invention these and other objects, features and advantages not specifically enumerated are achieved through the provision of a garment construction wherein a multi-fold unitary colret strip frames the neck opening of the body of a garment. The unitary colret construction includes a first fold which divides the colret in inner and outer layers and two additional folds in the outer layer which form reinforcing layers in the colret. An end fold is made inwardly so that an end portion of the outer layer of the colret lies against the body portion of the garment. The body portion extends well between the inner and outer layers of the colret to a position adjacent the first fold thus providing an exceptionally strong and durable colret construction.
Other objects and advantages of the invention will appear from the description of the accompanying drawings, wherein:
FIGURE 1 is a front view of a garment having a rounded neck opening incorporating the invention;
FIGURE 2 is an enlarged fragmentary front view of the neck portion of the garment;
FIGURE 3 is an enlarged fragmentary exploded sectional view of an embodiment of the invention, the structure being shown in perspective from the front side of the garment; and
FIGURE 4 is a cross-sectional view of the colret portion through section line 44 of FIGURE 2;
FIGURE is an enlarged fragmentary sectional view of a further embodiment of the invention similar to FIG. 3; and
FIGURE 6 is a cross-sectional view of the colret of FIG. 5.
Referring to FIGURES 1-4 inclusive, the body of the garment is shown at 1 and may be formed from any conventional and suitable material, such as flat knit fabric, jersey, etc. This material is usually knitted in tubular form and cut into appropriate tubular lengths to form the bodies of individual garments. The body is provided with a finished lower edge 2 and with sleeves 3 which are suitably attached to opposite sides of the upper end of the garment body. The body of the garment is cut away in the usual manner at its upper extremity to form a neck opening which is generally designated 4 in FIGURES 1 and 2. This general manner of construction is conventional.
The neck opening 4 is visibly framed by a strip of material generally designated 5. The colret material may be of any suitable construction, with a l x 1 rib knit material probably being the most advantageous for use in T- shirts. Colret 5 is formed as an elongate strip of constant width which extends around the edge of the neck opening 4 in closed endless configuration.
Referring to FIGURE 4, colret 5 is longitudinally folded at 7 into inner and outer layers 5a and 5b, respectively. Multiple folds in outer layer 512 provide reinforcement for colret 5. Outer layer 5b is folded to form two layers 50 and 5d outwardly thereof and an end layer 5e inwardly thereof as shown in FIGURE 4. End layer 52 is positioned between main outer layer 5b and body portion 1.
A preferred technique for folding the colret 5 to produce the configuration described comprises folding outer layer 5b inwardly and upwardly along a longitudinal fold line indicated at 9 so that a double outer layer is produced as indicated by dotted lines in FIGURE 4. This double outer layer is then folded upwardly and outwardly along a longitudinal line passing through points 8 and on colret 5, so that two layers 5d and 5c are produced outwardly of outer layer 5b. Thus, the multiple-fold configuration of FIGURE 4 can be realized through two simple folds of outer layer 5b as described.
One alternate method for producing this configuration may comprise folding outer layer 5b upwardly and outwardly along fold line 8 to form an intermediate layer 50. The intermediate layer may then be folded outwardly and downwardly along the fold line indicated at 9 to form a second outer layer 5d. Layer 5d may then be folded upwardly and inwardly at 10 to form the end layer 5e positioned between outer layer 5b and portion 1.
The lower edge of inner layer 5a is left unfinished or raw and is secured to the garment body 1 by stitching 6 in a manner to be described hereinafter. The edge of end layer Se is also left raw and is hidden from view in its position between outer layer 5b and body portion 1. Because the edge of end layer Se is not exposed to wear in this position, fraying thereof is substantially precluded.
The edge of the body fabric 1 extends upwardly between the layers 5a and 5b to a position adjacent longitudinal fold 7 in the colret strip 5. Lines of stitching 6 pass through the lower portions of the colret strip 5 and the body fabric 1 to complete the assembly. As shown in FIGURE 2, crows-foot stitching is used so as to prevent fraying of the raw edge of layer 5a. This type of stitching is well known in the art, and possesses a high degree of flexibility longitudinally of the rows, as pointed out in U.S. Patent 2,728,080 which is owned by the assignee of the present invention.
In manufacture, the colret strip 5 can be folded in a folding machine or machines and applied to the neck opening of the body 1 for sewing. Any of several fabrics can be used to form the components of the completed assembly. In a particularly satisfactory T-shirt construction, the body fabric is a flat knit or jersey structure and the colret strip is a 1 x 1 rib knit structure.
Referring to FIGURES 5 and 6, an alternate embodiment of the invention is shown in which certain elements therein are given the same numbers primed as corresponding elements in FIGS. 3 and 4. Colret 5' frames the neck opening of body portion 1 and includes an inner layer 5a and multiple outer layers 51), 5c, 5d and Se positioned as shown in FIGS. 5 and 6. The basic difference between the colret of FIGS. 5 and 6 and that of FIGS. 3 and 4 is that the former includes an additional inner layer 5 Layer 5 is formed by folding inner layer 5a along a longitudinal fold line denoted 11 in FIG. 6 inwardly to a position adjacent body portion 1. The layer 51 extends upwardly for a distance such that stitching 6 also passes through layer 5) during the stitching process. Layer 5) thus serves to further reinforce the opening formed by colret 5. An additional function of layer 5 is to insure that the inner layer of colret 5' is stitched at a location other than the edge so that the raw edge is concealed. This location of the stitching 6' provides greater durability in that direct contact by the Wearer with the raw edge is precluded.
Garments embodying the present invention are very satisfactory in actual wearing and laundering. The multiple folded layers of colret material, assembled as shown in the previously described embodiments exhibit exceptional strength and durability, as well as a marked resistance to sagging, stretching, or other distortions. Durability and strength is enhanced by the positioning of the body portion well between the inner and outer layers of the colret. This feature also aids in preventing puckering or other distortions of the outer edge of the colret adjacent the neck of a wearer. The multiple folding of the colret material together with the positioning of the body portion preclude any tendency of the colret to curl relative to the body material, which curling might be expected in the case of more simply constructed colrets.
It will be appreciated that the improved functional features have been achieved without effecting any substantial change in the outward appearance of the garment. Further, with the colret being formed as a unitary construction manufacture of the garment is simplified as compared with other constructions which attempt to achieve the same or similar characteristics. Finally, it will be apparent that the assembly according to the invention can be manufactured without substantial additional expense even over very simple colret structions because no additional sewing operations are required.
Having described the invention in the manner required by the Patent Statutes, we wish it to be understood that the foregoing disclosure is illustrative rather than definitive, and that the scope of the invention is defined by the subjoined claims interpreted in the light of the specification and drawing.
1. A collar edge construction for a garment comprising: a body portion having an edge defining a neck opening and a colret member extending around said edge in a closed endless configuration to frame said opening, said colret member comprising an elongate strip folded longitudinatlly along a first fold line to form a downwardly extending inner layer and a downwardly extending outer layer, said outer layer being further folded to produce a separate double layer outwardly of said outer layer and a separate single layer inwardly of said outer layer, said single layer terminating said outer layer and being positioned between the outside of said body portion and said outer layer, said colret being fixed to said body portion by stitching.
2. A collar edge construction in accordance with claim 1 wherein said inner layer is folded inwardly to produce an inner end layer positioned between the inside of said body portion and said inner layer.
3. A collar edge construction in accordance with claim 1 wherein the edge of said body portion extends well between said inner layer and said single layer to a position Where said edge lies adjacent said first fold line of said colret.
4. A collar strip construction in accordance with claim 1 wherein said stitching passes successively through said double layer, said outer layer, said single layer, said body portion and said inner layer.
6. A collar edge construction in accordance with claim 1 wherein said outer layer is folded outwardly and upwardly and outwardly and downwardly to form said double layer.
References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,136,889 11/1938 Richards 2274 X 2,728,080 12/ 1955 Beard 2113 3,281,863 11/1966 Beard et al. 2113 3,296,627 1/1967 Beard et al. 21 13 ALFRED R. GUEST, Primary Examiner.
US. Cl. X.R. 2274; 112-419