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Publication numberUS3594821 A
Publication typeGrant
Publication dateJul 27, 1971
Filing dateNov 5, 1968
Priority dateNov 6, 1967
Also published asDE1807123A1, DE1807123B2
Publication numberUS 3594821 A, US 3594821A, US-A-3594821, US3594821 A, US3594821A
InventorsPierron Claude Raymond
Original AssigneePierron Claude Raymond
Export CitationBiBTeX, EndNote, RefMan
External Links: USPTO, USPTO Assignment, Espacenet
Method for manufacturing trousers and the like
US 3594821 A
Abstract  available in
Images(9)
Previous page
Next page
Claims  available in
Description  (OCR text may contain errors)

United States Patent [7 2] lnventor Claude Raymond Pierron 7, Rue Albert ler, Eplnal, Vosges, France [21] Appl. No. 773,503 [22] Filed Nov. 5, 1968 [45] Patented July 27, 1971 [32] Priority Nov. 6, 1967,1-eb. 20, 1968, Oct. 15, 1968 [33] France [31] 127,079, 140,502 and 170,010

[54] METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING TROUSERS AND THE LIKE 58 Claims, 45 Drawing Figs.

[52] US. Cl 2/227, 2/243 [51] 1nt.Cl. A41d 1/06, A4ld 13/02 [50] Field of Search 2/243, 169, 227; 223/1 [56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 3,490,077 1/1970 Brown 2/243 1 A a l G E 11 Himan Primary ExaminerPatrick D. Lawson Assistant ExaminerGeo. V. Larkin Attorney- Nolte and Nolte ABSTRACT: A method of manufacturing trousers consisting in superposing at least two layers of fabric of equal width corresponding respectively to the legs of a pair of trousers; bringing said layers into engaging relationship and assembling them locally by their confronting faces at least along the back medial seal line and the fork perineal line connecting with the latter; forming two flattened blanks of tubular legs by superposing at least two additional layers and complementary longitudinal assembling thereof by pairs along at least the rear crease line, and severing the portions to be removed and lying outside the assembling lines PATENTED JUL2'! 19?;-

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EYS

PATENTED JUL27 1971 SHEET UF 9 I Z1- 1 Z2.

mvsmon I CLAUDE RAYMOND msnnou .d/ Slo EYS PATENTEU JUL27 1971 sum 5 OF 9 INVENTOR v CLAUDE RAYMOND PIERRON BY ATTOR EYS PATENTED JUL27 IHYI SHEET 7 [IF 9 '1 fig? 3B. 216 221 220 m m 0 um 3 3 om m 1 I I 2. z 8 i 2 O 7 0 m mm :l!?Zf-' 39.

INVENTOR CLAUDE RAYMOND PIERRON EYS PATENTED JUL? 7197i SHEET 8 BF 9 Wm QHWH mvsmon CLAUDE RAYMOND PIERRON BY INVENTOR CLAUDE RAYMOND PIERRON mmmumm SHEET 3 OF 9 a!) y MH MMkWWM WWHMMMMWH ATTORKEYS METHODFOR MANUFACTURING TROUSERS AND THE LIKE The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing trousers, breeches, shorts and like garments or articles of wearing apparel or the like, from any type of supple material such as sheet material, woven fabric, paper, knitted fabric, nonwoven or meshless fabric or the like, natural or artificial textile fabric, coated or non coated supple materials, cellulose materials, nonwoven" cellulose and/or polyamide products, synthetic materials such as plastics and, generally, any type of material capable of being used for wearing apparel and the various applications and uses resulting from the putting of the said method into practice.

It is known that at present in themanufacture of garments, even in the case of mass production, a precutting operation is required, followed by an assembling operation, resulting in considerable handwork in most of the manufacturing stages such as basting and assembling. 1

Such handwork necessitates considerable and costly labor, and this is the main cause of high-production cost of the garments.

It is an object of this invention to considerably reduce the production cost of garments of the aforementioned typeby providing a manufacturing'method, in particular a manufacturing method of a substantially continuous production line type comprising a sequence of preferably entirely mechanized or automatic operations, this practically completely avoiding handwork or reducing it as much as possible, notably. by first performing the assembling and folding operations and thereafter severing the garments.

To this end, the method according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises the stages of: superposing at least two lay'ersof supple sheet material of substantially equal width corresponding respectively to the two legs of the pair of trousers; bringing the said layers together into engaging relationship and locally assembling them by their mutually confronting and contacting faces at least along an outline corresponding to at least the back medial seat line and to the perineal fork line connecting therewith; forming two flattened blanks of tubular legs by superposing at least two additional layers; complementary longitudinal assembling of the four layers in two distinct pairsalong at least the back crease line; and severing the portions to be eliminatedand lying outside the assembling lines, at least. some of the operations being possibly performed according to various sequences.

In addition, garment accessories such as a waistband, pockets, reinforcing pieces, etc.... are advantageously precut and then fitted and secured to the trousers during the course of manufacture.

The assembling of the various parts of the trousers may be carried out by conventional sewing, stitching or overcasting methods, or, preferably, by using known industrial techniques such as sticking (self-sticking, heat sealing), welding (heat welding, ultrasonic welding, high frequency welding), or by any other suitable method.

The invention will be better understood and further objects, characteristics, details and advantages thereof will appear as the following explanatory description proceeds with reference to the accompanying diagrammatic drawings given by way of example only, illustrating several embodiments of the invention and wherein:

FIG. I shows a plan view of one of the two superposed pieces from which a pair of trousers is obtained according to a first embodiment of the invention, the said piece being in a flat spread state;

FIG. 2 is a section taken upon the line II-II of FIG. 1;

FIG. 3 shows a plan view of a pair of trousers after folding and assembling;

FIGS. 4 and 5 are sections taken respectively. upon the lines IV-IV and V-V ofFlG. 3;

FIG. 6 diagrammatically illustrates the first operations in a trouser production line according .to the invention;

FIG. 7 diagrammatically illustrates'the subsequent operations in the production line;

FIG. 8 is a section taken upon the line VIII-VIII OF FIG. 7;

FIG. 9 diagrammatically illustrates the final operations in the production line;

FIG. 10 is a section taken upon the line X-X of FIG. 9;

FIG. ll, 12 and 13' show respectively right-hand side, front and back views of a pair of trousers according to the first embodiment represented in FIG. 9;

FIGS. l4, l5 and 16 show respectively right-hand side, front and back views of a pair of trousers according to a second embodiment of the invention;

FIGS. l7, l8 and 19 show respectively right-hand side, front and back views of a pair of trousers according to a third embodiment of the invention;

FIGS. 20, 21, 22 show respectively right-hand side, front and back views of a pair of trousers according to a fourth embodiment of the invention;

FIGS. 23 and 24 show two sectional views corresponding respectively to FIGS. 4 and 5 and illustrating a modification of the folding and assembling of a pair of trousers made from tubular blanks;-

FIGS. 25a and 25b show complementary perspective view of the two layers of material with diagrammatic indications of thevarious successive operations performed on the layers during a. complete cycle ofmanufacture of the trousers according to a modification avoiding any snippets, waste or trimming of material;

FIGS. 26, 27, 28 and 29 are cross-sectional views taken respectively upon the lines XXVI-XXVI, XXVlI-XXVII, XX- VIII-XXVIII, XXIX-XXIX of FIG. 25a;

FIGS. 30, 32, 33 and 34 are cross-sectional views taken respectively upon the lines XXX-XXX, XXXII-XXXII, XXXIII-XXXIII, XXXIV-XXXIV of FIG. 25b; FIG. 31 is a fragmentary cross-sectional view taken upon the line XXX- l-XXXI of FIG. 25b;

FIG. 35 shows a perspective view at a larger scale, illustrating two finished pairs of trousers severed along their longitudinal line of transverse connection;

FIG. 36 is a cross-sectional view on the line XXXVI-XXX- VI of FIG. 35;

FIG. 37 is a cross-sectional view on the line XXXVII-XXX- VII of FIG. 35;

FIG. 38" is a cross-sectional view on the line XXX- VlIl-XXXVIII ofFlG. 35; i I v FIG. 39 is a crosssectional view on the line XXXIX-XXX- IX ofFlG. 35; v

FIG. 40 shows a cross-sectional view at a smaller scale, illustrating a modification of the method of the invention, using four superposed webs of equal width for continuous manufacture of trousers;

FIG. 41 shows a similar view of another modification of the method of the invention using four superposed webs, the two intermediate webs being wider and having folded edges;

FIG. 42 is a similar view of still another modification of the method according to the invention, using two superposed webs longitudinally folded in two equal halves to form two half-sheaths;

FIGS. 43:: and 43b are views similar to FIGS. 25a and 25b, illustrating a modification ,of the method of the invention, using four superposed webs and transverse arrangement of the trousers.

The present invention provides a novel method of basting and assembling trouser legs for entirely mechanizing or renderingautomatic the production of trousers or like garments. This method is illustrated in FIGS. 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5.

As shown in these figures, the pair of trousers is obtained from two superposed layers of material 1 and I of-substam tially rectangular shape ABCD. The two superposed layers 1 and l have their right sides turned, for instance and preferably, inwardly in mutually confronting relationship.

The first manufacturing stage consists in assembling the two superposed layers by any appropriate means along a curve EF corresponding to the back or seat medial line, the fork or perineal line and the front medial line of the trousers.

The following stage consists in defining on each of the superposed layers 1, l, the inner face of the leg Gl-IIJ, on the one hand, and, on the other hand, the two portions which are to form the outer face, namely BI-IIC (front outer half-face) and AGKD (back outer half-face). It should be noted that the line GJ corresponding to the back crease of the trousers is symmetrical with the line GK with respect to a line GL parallel to the height of the rectangle ABCD. In a similar way, the vertical line HI corresponds to the front crease of the trousers.

FIG. 3 shows how a trouser leg is obtained by folding and assembling the two superposed layers 1 and 1. By a first folding operation on the line GL, the lines G1 and GK corresponding to the back crease of the trousers are made to register. A second folding operation of the line HI brings the half-face BHIC over the half-face AGKD.lt should be noted that the respective lengths AG and BH, on the one hand, and DK AND IC on the other hand, are preferably such that, after folding, the two outer half-faces slightly overlap along a small rectangle ABCD (FIG. 3), thus enabling them to be assembled.

After assembling a pair of trousers along the lines GI and GK which have thus been made to register by superposition, and while AD and BCare slightly overlapping, it is sufficient in order to obtain a pair of trousers to sever the double-layer surface GL (JK) and the double-layer surface defined by the curve EF and the upper part of the trousers.

FIGS. 6 to 9 show how this novel method of basting and assembling the trouser legs can be put into industrial practice in the form of an actual continuous production line.

Such an assembly line comprises (FIG. 6) a first feed station 2 for feeding the material. As has already been mentioned, the latter may consist of a conventional textile material, a non woven product, a plastics or any other suitable material. Preferably, the material is in the form of a roll of large capacity comprising two layers or webs of material the right faces of which are preferably in mutually confronting relationship. Alternatively, the production line may be fed from two separate rolls each of which delivers one web.

At the next station 3, each of the two superposed webs l and 1' receives on its inner face (for instance its right face) which it is intended to place in confronting relationship with the other web, a coat of assembling substance, for instance glue, along the curve EF corresponding to the back medial line, the fork line and the front medial line of the pair of trousers. The assembling of the two superposed webs along the curve EF can also be performed by any other appropriate means (stitching, welding, hot sealing, etc...).

At the next station 4, the two superposed webs receive a waistband as by stitching or any other suitable fixing means.

It should be noted that the laying and fixing of the waistband can also be performed after the first manufacturing stage.

At the next station 6, the two symmetrical lines G] and GK previously described, as well as the curve EF are traced or marked as by means of a perforating roller or any other suitable means. This tracing is performed for instance in the form of perforations sufficiently close to one another to allow the surface GJK to be severed upon accomplishment of the manufacturing cycle by simply pulling or tearing apart.

At this stage, the two superposed webs can also be incised or slit on the segments HM located along the front fold. This cutting operation enables the closing of the trousers to be effected means ofa foldable flap bridge of reduced width (the distance separating the two front slits). However, other fastening systems can be provided. For instance, two folded narrow bands forming fly edges can be provided along the front parts of the curve EF. These two bands can be fixed to one another as by separable self-sticking or any other appropriate means (sliding fastener, buttons, clamps, hooks, etc...).

FIG. 7 shows the subsequent operations in the production line. At station 7, the edge BC and the line G] (or the line GK) are coated with fixing substances. At the next station 8 each of the superposed webs l, 1' is folded outwardly along the lines GL AND HI (see FIG. 2).

FIG. 8 shows a cross-sectional view of the arrangement of the two superposed webs towards the end of the folding operations. This figure corresponds to FIG. 4.

The said folding is performed in a continuous manner as the fashioning work in the production line proceeds, for instance by means of ramps, sloping deflectors or the like and known deviating means.

At station 9, the assembling of each trouser leg is performed, on the one hand along the back crease thereof by fixing to one another the lines G1 and GK in registeringrelationship and, on the other hand, along the lines .AD and BC preferably in overlapping relationship.

While the assembling along the back crease is performed preferably by sticking or welding, that of the edges AD and BC can'be carried out either by similar processes or by stitching, for instance by means of an overcasting machine of known type.

FIG. 9 illustrates the last operations in the assembly line consisting for instance in perforating or punching eyes 10 or the like through the waistband 5, these eyes serving as keeper holes for tying means such as a string, cord or belt 11.

The ultimate operation 12 in the production line consists in separating (by pulling apart or eventually cutting) the finished pair of trousers on the one hand, and, on the other hand, the surface GL (K1) and the surface defined by the curve EF and the upper part of the trousers. If needed, the fork EF of the trousers can be clipped or trimmed by means of a machine of known type.

FIGS. 11 to l3, 14 to l6, 17 to 19 and 20 to 22 illustrate respectively, among other things, four'main folding and assembling methods for obtaining a finished pair of trousers. In all these figures, the assembling lines are indicated by crosses; other folding and assembling methods are of course possible within the scope of the invention.

FIGS. ll'to l3 correspond to a first embodiment of the invention, as illustrated in particular in FIG. 9.

The second embodiment shown in FIGS. 14 to 16, differs from the first one in that during bilateral folding of the web, the folding of each leg blank is performed inwardly instead of outwardly, so that the cutting curve EF is composed of two cut half-portions or half-curves outlined respectively near the upper angles A and B of each web in each trouser blank.

According to a third embodiment illustrated in FIGS. 17 to 19, the folding of each web is performed for each leg blank along a longitudinal line, for instance the medial or central line of the web (folding by halves) corresponding substantially to the front crease of the trousers, in which case a complementary assembling is performed along the line of the back crease.

According to a fourth embodiment shown in FIGS. 20 to 22, no folding operation is required since each pair of trousers is obtained by superposing four webs of one and the same width, the two intermediate webs of which comprise the outline of the curves EF. In this case, the assembling is performed along the curves EF, the front crease line and the back crease line.

According to a further modification of the method of the invention,-shown in particular in FIGS. 23 and 24, two sheaths, tubular pieces or webs constituting respectively the blank of the right leg and the blank of the left leg of the trousers are initially spread flat andsuperposed, the two blanks are assembled by their mutually engaging faces along an outline corresponding to at least the back medial line and the perineal or fork line, the mutually confronting faces in each leg blank are assembled along lines corresponding to the back crease and eventually to the front crease, and the portions to be eliminated and lying outside the assembling lines are cut off.

In this case,no folding and assembling operations along the outer mutual line of the leg are required.

It should be noted that all the manufacturing operations are performed on superposed webs of a material which unrolls uninterruptedly. This unrolling may take place at a very high speed or rate, the various severing operations likely to retard the process being carried out at the end of the production line. It is to be understood that the manufacturing operations just described have been given as a nonlimitative example of application of the method according to the invention and that many modifications may be resorted to in putting the invention into practice.

In particular, the sequence of the various operations may be modified according to the desired type of garments, the number and kind of accessory parts to be laid, the selected method of assembling, etc...

In the previous embodiments, the production line is composed of a series of trousers following one another in the longitudinal direction of the webs, and each finished pair of trousers is obtained after a final stage during which the portions extending outside the lines of assembling are severed and eliminated, resulting in considerable waste of material.

In addition, the pockets to be eventually provided are obtained by means of a finishing operation which is practically independent of the method of making up proper.

FIGS. 25 to 43 illustrate an improved method enabling to use the material practically entirely and without waste, in particular by avoiding or recovering the portions or pieces to be eliminated. This again is obtained by using at least two continuous superposed layers of material comprising one or more continuous webs, for instance indefinite, single or multiple, folded or tubular webs superposed during a whole manufacturing cycle. According to this modification, there are provided two superposed bands which,after folding, originate a series of pairs of trousers arranged in couples of pairs of trousers disposed top to bottom, such couples of pairs of trousers following one another in the longitudinal direction according to a repeating or recurring pattern of couples of pairs of trousers extending across the whole width of the webs, whereby the pairs of trousers in each couple of pairs of trousers lie in tranversely or laterally adjoining relationship and top to bottom and the couples of pairs of trousers lie in longitudinally adjoining relationship, the bottom of a pair of trousers in each couple being adjacent to the bottom of a pair of trousers in another couple and the top or waistband of a pair of trousers in each couple being adjacent to the top or waistband of a pair of trousers in another couple.

The material corresponding to the cut along the perineal line and the seat line (back medial line and fork line) and which was eliminated in the previous embodiments is used during the very process of formation of the trousers to make back patch pockets of the hip pocket" type. in addition, the fly is made during the very process of trouser production.

This modification therefore improves the method of the invention so as to simplify it and reduce production cost while increasing its adaptability and extending its scope. Thus, the displacement of the assembly line described above takes place either continuously or intermittently with stops at at least some of the stations thereof in a manner known per se. Such an arrangement is advantageous in that it is suited to extensively vary the conditions of application of the method and its adaptability to eventually existing equipments, assemblies, systems or devices, and also to considerably diversify the method of industrial production of trousers.

In other respects, the aforementioned webs or layers may, in certain cases, advantageously be subjected (preferably beforehand) to an ornamental finishing treatment such as printing, goffering, embossing, milling or the like, such treatments being advantageous in that they lend themselves to improve and vary the appearance of the trousers to a large extent.

According to the form of embodiment illustrated in FIGS. 25a and 25b, the method of continuous production of trousers is based essentially on the fashioning of two continuous webs of woven fabric, stuff or any other supple material, namely an upper web 201 and a lower web 202 respectively, preferably of substantially equal width, delivered practically uninterruptedly by two feed sources of material advantageously consisting of reels or rolls 203 and 204 of material adapted to be unrolled. Guiding means such as transverse rolls 205 maintain the two superposed webs in either spaced or engaged relationship, depending on manufacture requirements. The two webs may be superposed so as to have either their outer visible or right faces, or their inner concealed or wrong faces in mutually confronting relationship or any other suitable relationship.

The method comprises the following eleven phases of operations numbered respectively from I to Xl, the first two phases of operations performed on each of the two webs of material 201 and 202 being identical and consisting in laying successively and separately on the faces to be placed in mutually confronting relationship (or externally visible faces) of the two webs prior to their being superposed, on the one hand spaced strips 206 forming transverse waistband edgings and transverse trouser leg bottom reinforcing pieces and, on the other hand, longitudinally fly fastening means 207, 207'.

Thus, during phase l, on each of the webs 201 and 202 are laid transverse spaced edgings 206 constituted preferably by a sticky or adhesive strip cut into sections or segments of uniform length corresponding to the common width of the webs and delivered, for each web, respectively by two reels 208, 209 the axes of rotation of which are substantially parallel to those of the rolls 203 and 204. The width of each web is equal to the sum of the waistband perimeter and the bottom perimeter of the leg.

Phase ll consists in laying on each web 201, 202 fly fastening means extending'perpendicularlyacross each transverse edging 206 and advantageously consisting of strips, strings or cords, or layers of glue or like adhesive substance 207, 207 transversely and alternately shifted with respect to one another on the successive edgings, so that the strips 207, as well as the strips 207', are substantially aligned in the longitudinal direction.

Instead of using a sticky substance as a fly fastening means, it is obviously possible, during this phase, to mount any other equivalent fastening means such as buttoning means, eyes, sliding fasteners or the like.

if a special unstickable glue is used as a fly fastening means, the latter can be opened and at will by separating or unsticking the two adhering portions or, alternatively, it can be closed by bringing together and pressing the two portions one against the other.

During phase lll, a means for fastening the set or perineal lines 210, 210' defining the fork is applied on at least one of the two webs, for instance the lower web 202, and advantageously consists of glue or like sticker substance applied to the upper face of the lower web 202 along the seat lines traced beforehand and symmetrically overlapping the successive transverse edgings 206 at transversely varying locations and according to alternately opposed transverse orientations.

From phase 1V to phase XI, the two webs are in engaging relationship, and the same operations are performed on the outer, respectively upper and lower faces of the webs as a whole.

During phase IV, the webs 201 and 202 prepared symmetrically and in the same manner during the two aforementioned first phases, are applied to one another and locally assembled by sticking along the seat lines 210, 210' arranged alternately on either side of the elements 207, 207', the said seat lines meeting respectively the opposed ends of the elements 207, 207' in such a way as to enclose the latter.

in phase V, the two webs are cut, on the one hand, along the lines 211, 211' running along the glue or adhesive strips 207, 207' respectively on the medial longitudinal line side of the two webs and, on the other hand, along the transverse cuts 212, 212'. Furthermore, hip pocket or back pocket inlet slits 213, 213 are cut in the two adjoined webs, the said slits being arranged by pairs alternately shifted in the transverse direction on either side on each transverse edging 206. Lastly, the webs are precut as by slight cutting, partial incision, perforations or any other similar type of slight discontinuous cuts, along the outlines 214, 214 running along the gluing lines 210, 210' inside their outlines, thus forming a line of diminished strength or incipient rupture line defining the material intended to be used as a bottom for the bags which will subsequently serve as hip pockets, the said incipient rupture line thus enabling subsequent severing by pulling or tearing apart.

During phase IV, longitudinal fly fastening means are laid on the two opposed outwardly oriented faces of the two superposed layers 201, 202 considered as a whole, and consist for instance of glue bands 215, 216 and 215, 216' applied respectively on either side of the two webs or layers considered as a whole or on either side of the lines 212, 212, so that the glue bands 215, 215' are located for instance on the upper face of the upper web 201, whereas the glue bands 216, 216' are located on the lower face of the lower web 202.

During phase VII, the flaps 217, 218 and 217, 218' defined by the cutting lines 211, 211 and 212, 212' are folded and the folded flaps are stuck respectively by the glue bands 215, 215 and 216, 216. In order to maintain a uniform orientation of the flies on all the trousers, the flaps 217, 217 constituted by the two superposed thicknesses of the webs 201 and 202 are folded for instance upwardly, that is to say against the upper face of'the upper web 201, whereas the flaps 218, 218' which are also constituted by the two superposed thicknesses of the webs, are folded in the opposed direction, that is to say downwards and against the lower face of the lower web 202. In fact, the pairs of trousers adjoined transversely and longitudinally are preferably respectively symmetrical with respect to the successive medial transverse axes of the transverse edgings 206.

In phase VIII, the lower face of the lower web 202 is glued along a marginal preferably substantially straight line 219a running along the longitudinal edge of the web and along the undulated medial line 220a defining the line of the back creases, as well as along the outlines of the-intended pockets 221a, 222a and 221'a, 222a inside the outline defined by the precutting lines 214, 214 and their transverse axes of symmetry and by the cutting lines 211, 211.

The operating steps comprised in this phase are repeated or simultaneously performed in a similar manner on the upper face of the upper web 201.

In phase IX, the edges 223a and 224a of the web, for instance the lower web 202, are folded outwardly or towards the underside, that is to say against the lower face of the web along two folding lines corresponding substantially to the front creases of the trousers, the said edges meeting and preferably overlapping along the longitudinal junction line 225a. Mutual assembling of these edges is performed through the medium of the gluing portion 219a. The same operation is repeated or performed for instance simultaneously with the edges 223, 224 of the upper web 201, the said edges being folded towards the top and against the upper face of the .web, so as to meet each other and to be assembled preferably by overlapping along the longitudinal line 225. Thus, tubular blanks of two pairs of trousers associated or connected along the undulated longitudinal line 220 are obtained between the successive transverse edgings 206.

In phase X are performed the severing cut 226 substantially in the middle of the gluing line 220 as well as the cuts 227 in each transverse edging 206 symmetrically with respect to its own longitudinal axis of symmetry and only on the side of the line 226 which is to form the trouser waistband, so as to obtain the waistband keeper holes. Finally, a severing 228-is made substantially along the medial or central line running along each edging 206.

During the last phase XI, the finished trousers are discharged or ejected and eventually piled up.

In a modified form of embodiment, a precutting or shallow cutting in of the transverse edgings 206 may be performed during phase X along their longitudinal medial axis, as well as a cutting along the lines 226 and the belt keeper hole lines 227, so that during phase XI the severing of the finished trousers is accomplished by pulling apart along the slightly cut in lines 226.

FIGS. 26 to 34 show respectively cross-sectional views of two superposed webs 201 and 202 as they appear during the various phases of operations, illustrating the locations of the stickings and the formation of the folds. FIG. 35. represents a transverse couple of pairs of trousers after they are longitudinally and transversely separated. FIGS. 36 to 39 show such trousers in cross section.

As appears from the figures, the two pairs of trousers in each couple are not constituted exactly in the same way, since one of the said pairs is assembled (assembling lines indicated by crosses) along the back crease 226, whereas the other is assembled along both the back crease 226 and a lateral medial line 225 extending on the outside of the legs. The difference in aspect or structure of these two finished pairs of trousers exists only when the specific embodiment just described is used.

It is essential to note that when one of the pairs of trousers thus obtained is opened by pulling apart along the precut lines 214 and 214, the material lying within the outlines 221 and 222 forms back pockets the openings of which are constituted respectively by the slits 213, 213. Thus, the material which in the previous embodiments correspond to the web portions located at the fork and was wasted, is now utilized. In FIG. 34, the patched wall of the back pocketsis shown pulled away from the fork outlines.

It should also be noted that the cuts 228 performed substantially along the middle line of the edgings 206 form, after the pairs of trousers are severed, on the one hand waistbands and, on the other hand, leg bottom reinforcing pieces looking like facings.

The various stickings may be performed in a hot or cold state, and they may be replaced by sewn seams, hot or coldwelded seams or any other appropriate welded seams (for instance high frequency welding), bordering or any other suitable fixing means;

Thus, by judiciously selecting the width of the webs and the back crease line of the trousers (back crease line enabling the trousers to be turned inside out), it is possible to obtain pairs of trousers according to a repeating or recurrent pattern of four pairs of trousers arranged in two couples of pairs of trousers, the said pairs of trousers being adjoined top-to-bottom. In particular, sticking is given only as a preferential assembling technique, it being understood that other techniques may be used.

FIGS. 40 and 41 illustrate by way of example two ways of using four superposed webs instead of two, whereas FIG. 42 illustrates the use of two superposed webs folded longitudinally into two equal halves to form four superposed layers. FIGS. 40 and 42 correspond, in particular, to the forms of embodiments illustrated in FIGS. 20 to 22 and 17 to 19 respectively.

Various sizes may be obtained by either varying the width of the aforementioned webs or layers (such as 201 and 202), or by transversely displacing the back crease line forming the longitudinal line of transverse adjoining of two pairs of trousers associated across the width of the webs, or by a combination of these two methods. Trousers of various lengths may be obtained by changing the formers by displacing or changing the sizing gears of the devices or machines used in fashioning the webs or putting the method of the invention into practice.

FIGS. 43a and 43b illustrates still another embodiment of the method of the invention for the manufacture of trousers in a continuous assembly line, comprising the steps of: initially superposing two layers of material constituted respectively by two central or intermediate single indefinite webs, the common width of which is at least equal to the height of the trousers to be obtained; bringing the said webs into engaging relationship and locally assembling them along two parallel transversely spaced series of longitudinally aligned fork and seat outlines, the said outlines being shifted with respect to one another and alternately oriented in opposed transverse directions from one series to the other, so that two outlines longitudinally following each other form one series to the other enclose outwardly two straight longitudinal lines extending at least in proximity to the two opposed longitudinal edges of the webs and in parallel relationship with the said edges, while being substantially symmetrical with respect to a trans verse axis, the two additional layers of material consisting of two additional or outer indefinite webs subsequently and respectively superposed externally on the two central or inner webs on either side of the latter, having the same width as the said central webs and respectively assembled to the latter along substantially transverse spaced successive lines corresponding respectively and alternately to the back and front trouser creases, the thus obtained adjacent successive trouser blanks in a repetitive or recurrent manner in the longitudinal direction of the webs, the said trouser blanks extending in a transverse direction with respect to the bands and being adjoined to one another alternatively along common front and back crease lines, so that two successive trouser blanks are placed top-to-bottom, the severing of the .finished trousers being performed by cutting along the said common lines.

The embodiment just described is very advantageous in that it facilitates the adjusting of trouser sizes and the use of a single width of material, permits of dispensing with mandrels and similar folding devices as well as the duplication of the gluing and cutting devices, and facilitates the obtention or laying of trouser waistband and leg bottom edgings. Therefore, the trousers are made from four superposed webs in which the trousers are arranged transversely, the material being practically entirely used without any waste, snippets or trimmings. The various main phases of operations in this embodiment are as follows:

Two superposed webs, respectively an upper web 301 and a lower web 302, are delivered respectively, for instance, by rolls 303 and 304 after having eventually undergone a finishing or appearance treatment. These two webs intended to subsequently form central intermediate or inner webs are initially maintained in separate or spaced relationship and thereafter brought and maintained in mutually engaging relationship by means, for instance, of rolls or the like 305. At first, a marginal edging is formed along each longitudinal edge of each web 301, 302, so as to obtain respectively trouser waistband and leg bottom edgings. Each edging is advantageously constituted by a folded hem 306, 306' assembled to the associated web as by sticking by means of a pregluing 307, 307' performed along the opposed edges of each web, preferably on the face thereof intended to be placed in confronting relationship with the other web, so that the hems of each web are advantageously folded towards the other web.

During the phase II, fly fastening means 308, 308' are laid on the mutually confronting faces of each web, the said fly fastening means extending, in a staggered manner, from each outer edge of the edgings 306, 306'. These fastening means are preferably separable and advantageously consist of glue layers or any other appropriate means.

During phase 111, local assembling means for the two webs, notably in the form of adhesive glue, are laid on at least one of the two webs, more specifically on the face thereof confronting the other web, for instance on the upper face of the lower web 302, respectively along the outlines of the perineal and seat lines 309, 309', the said local assembling means connecting with the said fly fastening means 308, 308' so as to form respectively transversely and outwardly open outlines alternately on each side, so as to meet and enclose the corresponding associated edging 306, 306'. Two successive outlines 309, 309' extending respectively on either side of the web 302 are substantially symmetrical with respect to a transverse axis.

During phase IV, the two webs 301, 302 are applied to one another and locally assembled by sticking along the outlines 308, 308'; 309, 309'.

In phase V, the two webs are precut by slight cutting in, partial incision, perforation or any other discontinuous cutting in process along each fork and seat outline 310, 310 inside the assembling line thereof, so as to define the intended patched walls of the bag of the back pockets. Also, said webs are cut along transverse segments 311, 311 running along each said fly fastening means on the inner side at each fork outline and seat outline, while meeting the precutting line to define dual fly flaps.

During phase VI, strips or bands of glue 312, 312 are applied to the upper or outer face of the upper web 301 on porside of the portions 312, 312, so as to fold the said double flaps on one and the same outer face of the two combined adjoined central webs 301, 302, in particular on the sticky portions 312, 312' of the upper face of the waistband 301, and to assemble them to the latter by sticking. Instead of sticking, any other suitable type of assembling may be used.

During phase VIII, gluing is performed on each of the two opposed outer faces of the said combined central webs, that is to say on the upper face of the web 301 and on the lower face of the web 302, and glue is applied, on the one hand, along the closed inner edge 314, 314' of each outline defined by the slight cutting in line 310, 310' and the cutting line 311, 311' and, on the other hand along the successive, transverse, respectively substantially straight and undulated, front crease line 315 and back crease line 316.

During phase IX, an additional web 317, 318 is superposed and assembled along the said gluing potions to each outer face of the two combined adjoined central webs 301, 302, that is to say to the upper face of the web 301 and to the lower face of the web 302, the said additional web being of the same width and unrolled from, for instance, a feed roll 319, 320 and intended to form an outer or end web. Each additional web 317, 318 has preferably been on the one hand, provided beforehand and bilaterally with the said longitudinal edgings 306a, 306'a formed, for instance, by respectively outwardly folded and stuck hems and, on the other hand, incised bilaterally along longitudinal segments 321, 321, the latter being substantially aligned, spaced and shifted longitudinally from one edge to the other to form inlet slits for the back pockets. These additional webs are initially maintained in spaced relationship with the central band and then brought into contact with the latter, for instance by means of guide rolls, such as 322,322.

In phase X, there is performed a cutting of the waistband keeper holes 323, 323 in the corresponding portions of each edging 306a, 306a of each said additional web 317, 318, and a transverse cutting of the combined four webs assembled along the successively front 324 and back 325 crease lines, in order to separate the finished trousers.

The sizes of the trousers may be conveniently varied by varying the distance between the respectively front and back crease lines, whereas the length of the trousers may be varied by varying the useful width of the webs. Thus, the method and the machine according to the invention ensure rational mass production at low cost and permit of obtaining trousers the appearance and configuration of which can be varied to a large extent.

It is to be understood that the invention should not at all be construed as being limited to the forms of embodiment shown and described, as the latter have been given by way of example only. In particular, the invention comprises all the means constituting technical equivalents to the means described as well as their combinations, should they be carried out according to the spirit, principles and teachings of the invention as defined in the appended claims.

I claim:

I 1. A method of manufacturing trousers and like garments, comprising the steps of: superposing at least two layers of supple sheet material of substantially equal width corresponding respectively to the legs of a pair of trousers; bringing the said layers into engaging relationship and assembling them locally by their mutually confronting faces at least along an outline corresponding to at least the back medial seat line and to the fork perineal line connecting with the latter; forming two flattened blanks of tubular legs by superposing at least two additional layers and complementary longitudinal assembling of the two layers in twodistinct pairs along at least the back crease line, and severing the portions to be eliminated and lying outside the assembling lines.

2. A method according to claim 1, wherein trouser accessories such as a waistband, pockets, reinforcement pieces are precut, fitted and fixed to each pair of trousers during the making up ofthe latter.

3. A method according to claim 1, wherein four layers of material are initially superposed.

4. A method according to claim 3, wherein the said four layers of material consist of four superposed webs intended to be assembled in distinct pairs along a longitudinal edge forming a front crease line and along a back crease line.

5. A method according to claim 3, wherein the said four layers of material consist of two superposed flattened tubular sheaths,

6. A method according to claim 3, wherein the said .four layers of material consist of two superposed flattened ,halfsheaths.

7. A method according to claim 6, wherein each said halfsheath is formed by longitudinally folding a web along the front fold line.

8. A method according to claim 1, wherein the said webs I undergo beforehand, an ornamental finishing treatment.

9. A method according to claim 1, for making trousers having waistbands wherein two layers of material are initially superposed, the said layers consisting respectively of two single webs, the common width of which is at least equal to the perimeter of the waistband, the said tubular leg blanks being formed respectively by bilaterally folding each web on one andthe same side thereof along two longitudinal lines of folding, one of which corresponds substantially to the front crease and the other to at least the buttock part of the back crease in such a manner that the folded parts meet and overlap at least partially, a complementary assembling being performed along the medial lateral line of the trousers.

10. A method according to claim 9, wherein each of the said two webs'is folded bilaterally along two substantially parallel longitudinal folding lines, in such a manner that the sum of the transverse widths of the folded edges is less than the width of the remaining part of the web, and an additional web of smaller width is superposed on the outer face of each band, the said additional web overlapping the folded edges and being subsequently assembled to the latter.

1]. A method according to claim 9, wherein the said bilateral folding of each web is performed outwardly with respect to the combined superposed webs.

12. A method according to claim 9, wherein the said bilateral folding of each web is performed inwardly with respect to the two superposed webs as a whole, the fork outline being traced in the form of two half-cuts on each part to be folded.

13. A method according to claim 9, comprising a continuous production line, consisting of two superposed indefinite webs delivered by at least one material feed source such as at least one rotary roll.

14. A method according to claim 13, comprising the successive steps of: periodically fixing at least transverse waistband edgings along the whole width of each of the two associated web faces intended to be brought into mutually confronting relationship and at intervals corresponding substantially to the length of the trousers, the said transverse waistband edging defining the successive trouser blanks; bringing together and assembling the said faces, in each trouser blank, along the aforementioned fork and seat outlines connecting respectively with the said transverse edgings by at least the back end; bilaterally folding each web outwardly, respectively along the longitudinal axis of symmetry of the back creases and along the front crease line, in such a manner that the thus folded parts overlap; assembling the folded overlapping edges and the back crease lines in registering relationship, so as to obtain a series of trouser blanks oriented from top to bottom in one and the same longitudinal direction of advance of the production line, each of the said blanks being adjoined by its waistband and its bottom to respectively the bottom of the preceding blank and the waistband of the following blank, and severing respectively the fork and back crease trimmings as well as each finished pair of trousers.

15. A method according to claim 14, comprising the laying, prior to the said bringing together and assembling of the webs, of means for assembling the said faces, on the face of at least one web confronting the face of the other web, the said means for assembling the said faces consisting, in particular, of an adhesive material.

16. A method according to claim 14, wherein, subsequent to the bringing together and assembling of the mutually confronting faces of the said two webs, the two webs are at least partially precut, on the one hand along the outer edge of the transverse edgings and along each of the said outlines and in prolongation of the latter, so as to connect with the associated transverse edging by its front end as well, and, on the other hand, along two back crease edge lines of each trouser blank, extending symmetrically with respect to the aforementioned longitudinal axis and connecting with one another on the said axis on the upper part of the trouser blank.

17. A method according to claim 16, wherein subsequent to the said precutting operation, assembling means such as bands of glue, are applied along at least one longitudinal edge of each said web and along at least one of the said back fold edge line on its portion spaced from the other.

18. A method according to claim 16, wherein subsequent to the said precutting operation, the two superposed webs are slitted jointly in each trouser blank along a longitudinal segment extending from the upper edge of the waistband, so as to form a foldable front bridge.

19. A method according to claim 16, wherein subsequent to said precutting operation, longitudinal fly fastening means are laid on the two opposed faces of the combined superposed webs considered as a whole, along the front medial line and in prolongation of the fork outline.

20. A method according to claim 16, comprising: the incision, subsequent to the said precutting operation performed on each said web and'on each trouser blank before folding, of a hip pocket inlet slit; the laying of assembling means such as glue along and inside the entire precut fork outline up to and including the waistband; and the assembling, after folding, of the said outlines directly to the associated folded parts of the webs, so as to form patch pocket bag bottoms the said bag bottoms being separable from the fork.

21.- A method according to claim 1, for making trousers with waistband edgings on a production line basis, comprising the cutting of eyes forming waistband keeper holes in each waistband edging prior to the aforementioned severing operation.

22. A method according to claim 1, working on a production line basis wherein various trouser sizes are obtained by varying the width of the aforementioned webs.

23. A method according to claim 1, performed on a production line including formers and fashioning devices with sizing gears, wherein various trouser lengths are obtained by varying said formers by displacing and changing said sizing gears of the fashioning devices.

24. A method according to claim 1, comprising a continuous production line obtained by: initially superposing two layers of material consisting respectively of two indefinite single webs the common width of which is substantially equal to the sum of a waistband perimeter and a leg bottom perimeter; bringing together and locally assembling the said webs along two parallel, longitudinally aligned series of spaced fork and seat outlines, shifted with respect to one another and oriented alternatively in opposed transverse directions from one series to the other, the said tubular leg blanks being obtained respectively by bilaterally folding the longitudinal edges of each web one towards the other and into overlapping relationship on one and the same side of said each web; assembling at least the said edges and the superposed mutually confronting faces of each flat spread leg blank along an undulated, generally longitudinal intermediate back crease line, so as to obtain in a repeating manner in the longitudinal direction of the production line successive adjacent sets of transversely arranged couples of pairs of trousers, the two pairs of trousers in each couple being adjoined alongsides and top to bottom along their back crease lines, whereas the two couples of pairs of trousers are adjoined along a common waistband and leg-bottom transverse line and symmetrically with respect to the said line; and separating the finished pairs of trousers by severing along each common back crease line and each common waistband and leg-bottom line.

25. A method according to claim 24, wherein two pieces of substantially triangularly curved general shape are cut in each dual seat and fork outline of the said two webs, and the said two pieces are assembled to the folded parts of the webs so as to form a wall of a patched back pocket bag.

26. A method according to claim 24, comprising a periodical fixing of transverse edgings along the whole width of each of the two associated webs intended to be brought into mutually confronting relationship and at locations separated along the said webs by intervals corresponding substantially to the lengths of the trousers, each of the said transverse edgings forming a waistband strip and a leg bottom reinforcing strip while at the same time delimiting the successive trouser blanks.

27. A method according to claim 1, for making trousers with flies on a line production basis wherein the trouser fly is made during the course of line production.

28. A method according to claim 27, comprisingthe fixing, on the said web faces, of longitudinal separable fly fastening means, symmetrically arranged across each said transverse edging.

29. A method according to claim 28, wherein said fly fastening means consist of adhesive self-sticking separable portions.

30. A method according to claim 28, wherein said fly fastening means consist of a buttoning system.

31. A method according to claim 28, wherein said fly fastening means consist of sliding fasteners.

32. A method according to claim 28, comprising the laying, prior to the bringing together and assembling of the said two webs, of means for assembling the said webs, the said means consisting of glue applied to at least'one of the mutually confronting faces of the said webs along each fork and seat outline symmetrically overlapping each said transverse edging.

33. A method according to claim 28, comprising the cutting of the two adjoined webs, on the one hand along a longitudinal line running alongside each fly fastening means on the side thereof lying within each said outline and, on the other hand, along a short transverse segment on the axis of each transverse edging and extending substantially along the width of the considered fly, so as to define the fly flaps and, lastly, along a pair of transverse back pocket inlet slits, in parallel and symmetrical relationship on either side of each transverse edging, as well as by a precutting of the webs along each said outline inside the assembling line thereof, so as to delimit the patched walls of the bag of back pockets.

34. A method according to claim 33, comprisingthe folding of the said fly flaps outwardly, alternately on one and the other of the two outer opposed faces of the said two adjoined webs, and by the assembling of the flaps respectively to the said faces.

35. A method according to claim 34, comprising the laying, prior to the folding of said fly flaps, of means for assembling the said flaps to the said faces, the said assembling means consisting of glue applied to the said faces.

36. A method according to claim 34, comprising the gluing, on each trouser blank, of a longitudinal edge of each said web and of an undulated back crease line respectively on the two opposed outer faces of the two adjoined webs as a whole, as well as of the inner edge of each said outline defined by the said precutting line, the transverse axis of symmetry thereof and the said longitudinal cutting line.

37. A method according to claim 36, comprising the bilateral folding of the edges of each said web outwardly along two folding lines corresponding substantially to the front folds of the trousers, and assembling by sticking of the said edges along an intermediate longitudinal junction line, so as to form with each web a flattenedtubular blank, as well as assembling by sticking of the two superposed faces of each tubular blank along the said undulated back crease line and the peripheries of the back pockets.

38. A method according to claim 37, comprising the cutting of the two webs along each undulated back crease line.

39. A method according to claim 38, comprising a precutting of the two webs in the middle of and along each said transverse edging, and by a severing of the finished trousers by pulling them off.

40. A method according to claim 38, comprising the cutting of the two webs in the middle of and along each said transverse edging for severing the finished trousers.

41. A method according to claim 1, comprising a continuous line production obtained by: initially superposing the two layers of material consisting respectively of two single central indefinite webs the common width of which is at least equal to the height of the trousers; bringing together and locally assembling the said webs along two parallel, transversely spaced series of longitudinally aligned fork and seat outlines shifted and oriented alternately in opposed transverse directions from one series to the other, in such a manner that two outlines longitudinally following each other from one series to the other close respectively outwardly on two straight longitudinal lines extending at least in proximity to the two opposed longitudinal edges of the webs and parallel thereto while being substantially symmetrical with respect to a transverse axis, the two additional layers of material consisting of two additional indefinite webs subsequently and externally superposed on the two central webs respectively on either side thereof, the said additional webs having the same width as the central webs and being assembled respectively to the latter along successive, spaced, substantially transverse lines corresponding respectively and alternately to the front and back trouser creases, so as to obtain successive adjacent trouser blanks in a repeating manner in the longitudinal direction of the webs, the said trouser blanks extending in the transverse direction of the webs and being adjoined to one another alternately along the common from and back crease lines, in such a manner that two successive trouser blanks extend alongside and top-tobottom, the severing of the finished trousers being performed by cutting along the said common lines.

42. A method according to claim 41, wherein on each said central web, at least a portion of material lying within each said fork and seat outline is intended to be detached and assembled to the confronting face of the adjacent additional web, so as to form a wall of a patched back pocket bag.

43. A method according to claim 41, comprising the fixing of an edging strip along each longitudinal edge of each said web, so as to form respectively waistband and leg bottom edgings.

44. A method according to claim 43, wherein each said edging strip is obtained by folding back the edge of the associated web to form a hem the folded portion of which is secured to said web.

45. A method according to claim 43, wherein separable fly fastening means are fixed beforehand to the faces, intended to be placed in mutually confronting relationship, of the said two central webs, the said separable fly fixing means extending transversely according to a staggered pattern respectively from the outer edge of each said edging strips.

46. A method according to claim 45, comprising the laying, prior to the bringing together and assembling of the said two central webs, of means for assembling the said webs, in particular in the form of adhesive glue, on at least one of the two mutually confronting faces of the said webs along each said fork and seat outline, extending to with the outer edge of each said edging.

47. A method according to claim 45, comprising the cutting of the two adjoined central webs along a transverse line extending alongside each said fly fastening means on the side thereof lying within each said fork and seat outline, so as to delimit the double-fly flaps, and the precutting of the two webs along each said fork and seat outline, inside the assembling line thereof, so as to delimit the patched walls of back pocket bags.

48. A method according to claim 47, comprising the folding of the said double-fly flaps respectively around a transverse folding line on one and the same outer face of the combined adjoined two central webs, and by the assembling of the flaps to the said face.

49. A method according to claim 48, comprising the layering, prior to the folding of the said fly flaps, of means for assembling the said flaps to the said face of the combined two central webs, the said assembling means consisting, in particular, of glue applied to the said face.

50. A method according to claim 48, comprising the gluing on each of the two opposed outer faces of the combined two central webs, on the one hand of successive, transverse, respectively substantially straight front crease lines and undulated back crease lines, and on the other hand, of the closed inner edge of each said outline defined by the said precutting line and the said cutting line.

51. A method according to claim 50, comprising the superposition and assembling of the said additional web to each gluing portions, the said additional web being beforehand provided bilaterally with the said edgings and being incised bilaterally along longitudinal, aligned, spaced segments longitudinally shifted from one edge to the other, so as to form back pocket inlet slits.

52. A method according'to claim 51, comprising the cutting of belt keeper holes in the corresponding parts of each said additional web edging.

53. A method according to claim 51, comprising the transverse cutting of the assembled four webs along the successive front and back crease lines, so as to sever the finished trousers.

54. A method according to claim 1, wherein the right face of the two directly superposed layers of material corresponds to the mutually confronting faces of the said layers.

55. A method according to claim 1, wherein at least some of the assemblings and fixings are achieved by adherent sticking.

56. A method according to claim 1, wherein at least some of the assemblings and fixings are achieved by welding.

57. A method according-to claim 1, wherein at least some of the assemblings are achieved by sewing.

58. A method according to claim 1, wherein the severing of the portions to be eliminated is performed by pulling or tearing away portions at least partially precut, along lines of diminished strength forming incipient rupture lines.

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Classifications
U.S. Classification2/227
International ClassificationA41D1/06
Cooperative ClassificationA41D1/06
European ClassificationA41D1/06