US 3614789 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
Oct. 26, 1971 e. MENUT TAILORING CUT FOR GARMENT SLEEVES, WITH ASSEMBLY OF THE CORRESPONDING ELEMENTS 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed April 10, 1969 Oct. 26, 1971 G. MENUT 3,614,189
TAILORING OUT FOR GARMENT SLEEVES, WITH ASSEMBLY OF THE CORRESPONDING ELEMENTS Filed April 10, 1969 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Oct. 26, 1971 a. MENUT TAILORING CUT FOR GARMENT SLEEVES, WITH ASSEMBLY OF THE CORRESPONDING ELEMENTS 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed April 10, 1969 3,614,789 TAILORING CUT FUR GARMENT SLEEVES, WITH ASSEMBLY OF THE COESI'UNDING ELEMENTS Georges Menut, Le Mazet-aint-Voy (Hallie-LOII'Q), France Filed Apr. 10, 1969, Ser. No. 814,965 Claims priority, application France, Apr. 16, 1968, 93/68; Mar. 24, 1969, 6907779 Int. Cl. A4111 1/00 US. Cl. 2-93 6 Claims ABSTRAJCT OF THE DISCLOSURE A garment comprising a plurality of sections interconnected with one another includes sections which are specifically shaped to correspond to the contour of various muscles in the arm of the human body, so that when the arm is raised the garment portion at the waist does not ride upwardly.
To date, the cutting of garment sleeves has been based upon the articulation of the top of the humerus and this does not provide a true basis for the actual articulated movements of the arm. The result is that various kinds of deformation occur in the garment while being worn.
It is in order to overcome these drawbacks that a special tailored cut for the sleeving of garments, coupled with assembly of the corresponding elements, has been developed in accordance with the present invention.
In order to LfiX the object of the invention, although without intending any limitation of its scope, the drawings illustrate:
FIG. 1 which is a schematic view of the basic conventional cut;
RIG. 2 which is a schematic view of the bones of the arm and the positioning of the head of the humerus for conventional placing of the sleeve seam symbolically depicted;
FIG. 3 which is a schematic illustration of two arm positions in association with the conventional basic cut;
FIG. 4 which is a schematic illustration of the movement of the arm, used as the basis of the present invention (the arm is shown raised);
FIG. 5 which is a schematic illustration of the movement of the arm, used as the basis of the present invention (the arm is shown raised and the corresponding lift in the side of the body is also indicated);
FIG. 6 which is a schematic view of the line of cut used at the top of the sleeve in accordance with the invention;
FIG. 7 which is a schematic view of the way in which the garment in accordance with the invention is assembled;
FIG. 8 which is a schematic view of the formation of the interwoven shoulder;
FIG. 9 which is a schematic view of the armpit section for short sleeves;
FIG. 10 which is a view on a larger scale showing in plan form the back, front and armpit sections of a long sleeved garment cut in accordance with the invention;
FIG. 11 which is a view similar to that of FIG. 10, but of a short-sleeved garment;
FIG. 12 which is a plan view of the various constituent parts of a garment, in accordance with another embodiment;
FlIG. 13 which is a front elevational view of the pieces and their lines of cut, the wearer having his arms lowered, in accordance with the embodiment of FIG. 12;
FIG. 14 which is a front elevational view of the embodiment of FIG. 12, showing the lines of cut and with the wearers arms raised;
3,614,789 Patented Uct. 26, 1971 FIG. 15 which is a back view of the garment of FIG. 13.
In order to understand the features of the present invention, it is necessary to consider first of all the conventional current method, namely if we look at a conventional garment sleeve, then it will be seen that this is in the form of an arm hanging at the users side. The result is that the dimension from the wrist to the armpit is shorter than that from the wrist to the shoulder (see FIG. 1).
The location of the line of cut determining the attachment of this sleeve to the body of the garment, is based upon the articulation of the top of the humerus. The principle of assembly of this kind of garment is therefore determined substantially by the configuration of the skeleton, as shown in. FIG. 2. t
In accordance with the known method, it will be observed that if the arm is raised, the shoulder muscle mass, which increases in bulk as it moves, swings the seam line towards the neck, the sleeve at the same time being pulled down because the dimension h between the waist and the shoulder increases substantially by the amount a.
At this moment, the natural crease which marks the point of attachment of the deltoid muscle of the shoulder joint, close to the bicep b, clearly defines the point of distortion of the garment in an upward direction and this interferes with natural movement in a manner with which everyone reading this document will be familiar (see FIG. 3).
Let us now consider the garment sleeve forming the subject of the present invention.
This sleeve is cut basically in the form of a raised arm. The dimension from the wrist to the armpit is thus greater than that from the Wrist to the shoulder, as FIG. 4 shows.
In this case, the location of the seam fixing the sleeve to the body of the garment is determined by the muscular mass when at its greatest bulk. This arrangement which, in a conventional garment, is simply the point of resistance to stretching of the garment in the upward direction, becomes in the case of the present invention and, at the point of attachment of the deltoid muscle close to the bicep b, the factor which determines the exact height it required in the garment with the arm lifted and with no deformation, as shown in FIG. 5.
The line of the seam. fixing the top of the sleeve is here determined by the muscle movement and not the skeletal movement which forms the basis of conventional cutting.
The seam line follows the form of the deltoid muscle, running away from the clavicle towards the rear (and in so doing intersecting the trapezius), in a projection of the neck line of the garment or the collar-band, depending upon the style (round/ V necks or roll necks), see FIG. 6.
This seam line terminates, running from rear to front, and girdling the deltoid muscle (imagine the drawing folded around the arm), beneath the armpit at the side seam closing the garment from Wrist to waist as shown in FIG. 7.
When the arm is lowered, the volume of the breast or pectoral muscle, having been modified by the extension movement, reverts to its position in the space provided now by the surplus length seam, while the latter, in accordance with the downward movement of the fabric, moves to a position obliquely across the arm. This arrangement makes it possible to produce a garment which can be worn by either men or women since it avoids the conventional pinching of the breast which occurs in garments for Women.
This equivalence between the maximum displacement of the seam (arm raised position) or its folded condition (arm lowered), and the more or less marked increase in the volume of the torso, makes it possible to produce a well-fitting garment which nevertheless assures complete ease of movement.
Attentionshould also be paid to the disappearance of the conventional creases normally originating at the armpit with the arm in the lowered position by virtue of the placing of the conventional shoulder scam; the weight of the shoulder piece, and that of the sleeve, at the level of the arm seam, ensure in this arrangement that the fabric shoulder fits the muscle bulk properly, indeed like one skin over another (see FIG. 8).
In the case of short-sleeved garments, the piece covering the deltoid muscle functions directly as a sleeve, creating at the back the desired cut-out and replacing the sleeve top of the long-sleeved design, the assembly being bordered by a collar-band identical to that used for the round neck, as shown in FIG. 9.
FIG. illustrates the ways in which the back A, the front B and the sleeves C are cut in order, after assembly, to produce a long-sleeved garment with the features of the invention.
FIG. 11 illustrates the ways in which the back A, the front B and the armpit sections D are cut in order to produce after assembly, a short-sleeved garment incorporating the features of the invention.
In accordance with a variant embodiment, it has been sought to improve the useful life of the garment by a new cut which is substantially characterized in that said garment breaks down substantially as many pieces as there are muscles involved in the arm movements and into a number of pieces for interconnecting the pieces corresponding to the muscles; the lines of cut of the various elements follow the contours of each muscle precisely, While their points of attachment are located at the intersection between said muscles themselves or between them and their joints.
In this embodiment, the front E is fitted by virtue of its symmetrical and sloped lines E to the seam lines F, of pieces F known as the deltoid pieces which, at other lines F co-operate and are assembled with part of the seam line G of each piece G (the trapezius pieces) constituted by two similar triangles linked by a central seam G at the location of the spine.
The back is split into two similar pieces H linked to the side of pieces G and F at their respective curved seam lines G and F these pieces H likewise constitute, at H the backs of the sleeves. At either side of the front E, a band I is fixed at I along the line E of said front piece, to the line F of the deltoid piece F, and to the line H of the back portion H of the back H, and forms half the sleeve. These pieces I are attached at their edges J 2 to the parts H of the back H and to the sleeve halves H The various elements which go to make up the garment now having been described, it is now time to develop the idea and the design details which go into the implementation of a garment in accordance with this embodiment.
The pattern of cutting is based upon the articulation of the muscles involved in the movements of the limbs.
The seam which secures the sleeve to the shoulder at the level of the top of the humerus, is now replaced by a piece F which accurately covers the deltoid.
This piece ensures that when the deltoid muscle operates, there is available the requisite length from the bottom of the garment to the junction between the deltoid and the tricep and bicep, as well as the necessary width of fabric to allow said muscle to deploy without lifting the garment any further.
The point which, in a conventional garment, is nothing more than the point of resistance to upward extension, here becomes the point which precisely determines the dimensions which the garment must have in order that when the wearer raises his arm there is no deformation.
The armpit seam disappears since it is no longer necessary. The sleeve is in effect made up half of a piece I delimited by the seam I running from the groin obliquely to the point where the deltoid encounters the tricep and the bicep, on the one hand, and of a seam I running from the wrist to the base of the garment and pass ing through the center of the armpit, on the other.
The other half H of the sleeve is in an integral part of the back H and is therefore attached at H thereto by the seam J underneath. On top, in the form of a second seam H 4 starting in extension of the deltoid at the point where it meets the tricep and bicep, runs down to the wrist (FIG. 14).
The normal return of the fabric, with the arm lowered, is ensured by the fact that an opening K, of diamond shape, which is closed at the time of assembly of the garment, ensures the normal angle of fold which is conventionally obtained by the armpit scam in a conventional design (FIG. 14).
It should be noted that in the rest state, with the arm lowered (FIG. 13), the seam E 4 which runs from the tip of the deltoid away obliquely from the tricep up to the major pectoral muscle, in conjunction with the seam F which starts from this junction and follows an oblique downward line, automatically produces the desired apertural angle and length in this piece which, as before, is attached to the deltoid piece F. The junction between these two muscles determines the point L, namely the exact position of the armpit and, therefore, the location of the diamond-shaped fold portion K which is closed when the garment is assembled.
At the front, the seam Il -E developing from the junction between the large pectoral muscle and the deltoid follows the long oblique line already referred to, in the case of the male. In the case of the female, this seam, although devolping from the same point of attachment, is slightly curved in order to follow the line of the breast (shown in broken-line in FIG. 13).
It should also be noted that the garment can be of short-sleeved design and all that is necessary in this context is to reduce on the one hand the length of the piece I and, on the other, that of the section H of the back.
The advantages of these embodiments will be adequately apparent from the description. It should be emphasized, in particular, that the garments obtalned in this way no longer ride up the waist when the arms are lifted. Finally, they give perfect ease of movement. Based upon anatomical fundamentals, they are truly functional since they keep company with the musculature just like a second skin, and eifect:
The production of the same pattern of cut for garments for both women and men, simply by taking account of variations in the volume of the torso.
The disappearance of unsightly and uncomfortable creases at the armpits and around the top of the arm.
The same lines of cut at the back and at the front for short-sleeved and long-sleeved garments.
These advantages mean a considerable degree of simplification in manufacture and therefore a substantial economy in terms of sales price.
What is claimed is:
1. A garment for a human body, said garment comprising a plurality of sections, said sections having edges defining respective contours, some of said contours corresponding approximately to the contours of the deltoid, trapezius and pectoral muscles of the human body, and means joining said sections along selected edges corresponding to said contours of the deltoid, trapezius and pectoral muscles of the human body.
2. A garment as claimed in claim 1, wherein said sections are comprised of a front section and a back section, said front section including opposite portions having respective edges for being joined to said back section to cover the shoulders respectively of the human body.
3. A garment as claimed in claim 2 including sleeve sections having respective edges for being joined respectively to said opposite portions of said front section.
4. A garment as claimed in claim 3, wherein said sleeve sections are shaped such that the length over a portion thereof corresponding to the distance from the wrist to the armpit of the human body is greater than the length over a further portion thereof corresponding to the distance from the wrist to the shoulder of the human body.
5. A garment as claimed in claim 1, wherein said sections are comprised of a number of sections corresponding to the number of muscles governing the articulation of the arm of the human body, said sections being joined along respective edges corresponding to the intersecton of said muscles governing the articulation of the arm.
6. A garment as claimed in claim 1 comprising a back section including upper extremities of generally triangular shape having edges extending along the contours of the trapezius muscles and jointed to one another along a line corresponding to the spinal colum of the human body, respective shoulder sections corresponding in shape to the contour of the deltoid muscles and joined to said upper extremities of said back section along selected edges corresponding to the intersection between said trapezius muscles and said deltoid muscles, a front section including opposite edges joined to respective edges 6 of said shoulder sections extending generally transversely of the intersection between the trapezius and deltoid muscles, and a pair of front and a pair of back side sections of respective similar shape joined to the outer edges of said front, back and shoulder sections and including mutually joined edge portions for constituting sleeves.
References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS ALFRED R. GUEST, Primary Examiner U.S. Cl. X.R. 2-125, 243