|Publication number||US3719956 A|
|Publication date||Mar 13, 1973|
|Filing date||Oct 15, 1971|
|Priority date||Oct 15, 1971|
|Publication number||US 3719956 A, US 3719956A, US-A-3719956, US3719956 A, US3719956A|
|Original Assignee||Glassberg F|
|Export Citation||BiBTeX, EndNote, RefMan|
|Patent Citations (5), Referenced by (10), Classifications (5)|
|External Links: USPTO, USPTO Assignment, Espacenet|
United States Patent 91 Glassberg 1March l3, 1973- 1 1 UNDERARM CONSTRUCTION FOR GARMENTS  lnventorz Florence Glassberg, 1489 Shore Parkway, Brooklyn, NY 11214  Filed: Oct. 15, 1971 l  Appl. No.: 189,601
 U.S. Cl. ..2/125  Int. Cl. ..A4lb 1/08  Field of Search ..2/106, 125, 126, 269, 270
 References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS R22,906 8/1947 Sholder ..2/125 1,986,217 1/1935 Pilla .Q .....2/125 2,659,890 11/1953 Revolta ..2/125 2,036,013 3/1936 .....2/125 Berman 2,386,768 10/1945 Ayoub ..2/106 Primary Examiner-Patrick D. Lawson Attorney-Rose & Edell  ABSTRACT A sleeve and armhole arrangement includes a sleeve pattern having a top edge with an arcuate shoulder portion bounded by two relatively long acute angle projections. The projections extend a distance from the cuff which exceeds the distance between the apex of the arcuate shoulder portion and the cuff. The body pattern armhole is contoured to match the top edge of the sleeve portion. The resulting garment has an underarm region characterized by bias planes which yield in response to all possible arm movement and thereby provides extreme pliancy and comfort.
6 Claims, 5 Drawing Figures PATENTEDMAR1 31975 R O T N E V m FLURENCE GLQSSBERG' @casa M AT ORNEYS UNDERARM CONSTRUCTION FOR GARMENTS BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to garment construction and, more particularly, to a garment having an improved armhole region which facilitates arm movement and is comfortable, neat in appearance, and simple to construct.
Conventional underarm regions in garments are restrictive of arm movement primarily because of the lateral underarm seam generally employed. Of particular concern is the tendency of the garment to hike up along the side of the wearer whenever the arm is raised, thereby causing the garment to become untucked (in the case of shirts and blouses) at the waist.
Numerous prior art attempts have been made to provide garments such as shirts, dresses, blouses, jackets etc., which permit the wearer improved freedom of arm motion. Most of these prior art garments have been concerned with the problem of the garment not remaining tucked or otherwise properly positioned when the wearer raises his or her arms. Examples of these prior art garments may be found in U.S. Pat. No. 1,986,2l7 to Pilla, U.S. Pat. No. 2,386,768 to Ayoub, and U.S. Pat. No. Re22,906 to Sholder. Each of these patents is specifically concerned with providing greater fullness in the underarm region of the garment, the fullness acting to "take up the slack when wearers arm is raised. Each of these patents describes a similar variation of the standard sleeve pattern. Specifically, whereas a conventional sleeve pattern exhibits a smooth symmetrical cu'rve along its top edge, Pilla, Ayoub and Sholder interrupt the curve with small winglike appendages. These appendages are sewn together when the sleeve is assembled to provide an underarm region of greater fullness than is present in conventional sleeves.
A common problem to each of Pilla, Ayoub and Sholder is the very fullness they seek. Specifically, the additional fullness causes a bunching of material in the underarm region of the wearer when the arm is lowered. This bunching is undesirable from an aesthetic point of view. More importantly, the excess material in the underarm region causes much discomfort. Thus, while the sleeve arrangements of the aforementioned patents do reduce the tendency of a shirt or the like to become untucked when the arm is raised, the excess material in the underarm region restricts substantially all other arm motion.
Apart from aesthetic and comfort considerations, the sleeve arrangements described by Pilla, Ayoub and Sholder are relatively complex to fabricate. The conventional symmetrical sleeve pattern is easily designed and sewn directly to the garment armhole. In Pilla, the sleeve must undergo relatively complex folding and sewing steps to form underarm hinges which provide the desired greater fullness. Sholder requires an asymmetrical sleeve pattern which is not easily designed and which by its very nature, must provide a shirred or puffed shoulder look having severe styling limitations. The Ayoub sleeve involves difficulty during garment assembly since Ayoub specifically requires that the sleeve fabric be distorted as it is sewn to the armhole of the body of the garment.
It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a garment which has a simple structural design in the region of the armhole and yet provides complete comfort and flexibility.
lt isanother object of the present invention to provide an armhole and sleeve arrangement which is simple to construct, does not limit styling, and yet is comfortable in that there is no undue bunching'of material in the underarm region of the wearer and no pulling at the waist when the wearer's arm is raised.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION According to the principles of the present invention the underarm portion of a sleeve pattern is formedby a pair of relatively long, acute angular projections which extend further from the sleeve cuff than does the shoulder portion of the sleeve. The armhole ofthe body portion of the garment is cut to match the sleeve pattern whereby the completed garment is characterized by a pair of downwardly converging and sharply angled underarm seams as compared to the conventional and highly restrictive lateral underarm seam. These angled or bias seams permit the arm to be raised without restraint by or pulling of the garment. In addition the sleeve fits the underarm region of the wearer without bunching, thereby providing unusual pliancy and comfort. Further, lateral arm motion is not restricted by this armhole arrangement because the bias plane across the angular projections eases the pull on the garment in the back and chest areas.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS The above and still further objects, features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent upon consideration of the following detailed description of one specific embodiment thereof, especially when taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, wherein:
FIG. 1 is a detailed plan view illustrating a typical sleeve pattern configured according to the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a detailed plan view of one-half of the front of atypical body pattern for a shirt configured according to the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a detailed plan view of one-half of the rear of a typical body pattern for a shirt configured according to the present invention;
FIG. 4 isa front view in perspective illustrating a completed shirt which utilizes the patterns of FIGS. 1, 2 and 3; and
FIG. 5 is a rear view in perspective of the shirt of FIG. 4.
DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENT Referring specifically to FIG. 1 of the accompanying drawings, there is illustrated a pattern 10 for a sleeve to be utilized in the fabrication of a man's shirt. The pattern includes a generally straight cuff region 11 at the bottom, a pair of sides 13 and 15 which generally diverge from opposite ends A, B of cuff region 11, and an arcuate shoulder portion 17. The arcuate shoulder portion 17 is symmetrical with respect to cuff region 1 1, having an apex point C and end points D and E. The
end points of arcuate section 17 do not intersect sides 1 13 and 15 as in conventional sleeve patterns; rather the top of the pattern breaks away into two upwardly projecting and mutually diverging winglike projections 19 and 21. These projections, when sewn together as described below, form the underarm region of the garment. More specifically, conventional sleeve patterns are configured as represented by broken lines 23 and 25 to provide a lateral underarm seam. As will be clearly understood from the subsequent description, the conventional lateral seam is eliminated by means of projections 19 and 21.
The distinctiveness of pattern 10 as compared to the sleeve patterns of the aforementioned Pilla, Ayoub and Sholder patents resides in the particular configuration of projections 19 and 21. Specifically, the tops of these projections, points F and G, respectively, are displaced from cuff region 11 by a distance which exceeds the displacement between the cuff region and apex point C of arcuate shoulder portion 17. In addition, the sides of the projections form smaller or more acute angles than do the sides of the projections in the Pilla, Ayoub and Sholder patents. The significance of these distinctions will be more clearly understood from FIGS. 4 and and the description thereof hereinbelow.
Projection 19 is formed by side D-F and side H-F, where H is a point at the top of pattern side 13 at which the top and side of theconventional sleeve pattern intersect (reference broken line 23 and its intersection with side 13). The angle between sides D-F and I-I-F is approximately 30, although a variation of 1 is permissible.
Having described sleeve pattern 10, attention is directed to FIGS. 2 and 3 wherein patterns 27 and 29,
respectively are illustrated. Pattern 27 is for one-half of the front of a mans shirt; pattern 29-is for one-half of the back of a mans shirt and is arranged to cooperate with pattern 27 to form an armhole region required for sleeve pattern 10.
Pattern 27 includes a side 31 defined between bottom point K and top point L, the latter being located at the bottom of the armhole region 35 in pattern 27. The shoulder line 33 of pattern 27 extends between the neck opening and the top of armhole region 35. Armhole region 35 is cut to match the contour of a portion of the top of sleeve pattern 10. Specifically, a first section LM of armhole region 35 corresponds to the configuration of side F-D of projection 19 in sleeve pattern 10. The remainder of armhole region 35 between point M and shoulder line 33 matches the contour of the section of arcuate shoulder portion 17 immediately to the right of point D in FIG. 1.
Pattern 29 includes a side 37 defined between bottom point N and top point P, the latter being located at the bottom of the armhole region 39 in pattern 29. Shoulder line 41 of pattern 29 extends between the neck opening and the top of armhole region 39. The latter is cut to matchthe contour of the remainder of the top of sleeve pattern 10. Specifically, a first section P-Q of armhole region 39 corresponds to the configuration of side E-G of projection 21 in sleeve pattern 10. The remainder of armhole region 39 between point Q and shoulder line 41 matches the contour of the section of arcuate shoulder portion 17 immediately to the left of point E in FIG. 1. This latter section of armhole re-' gion 39 includes a point R which corresponds to the apex C of shoulder portion 17 in FIG. 1.
Patterns 10, 27 and 29 may be sewn together to fabricate the completed mans shirt illustrated in FIGS. 4 and 5. Fabrication follows the sequence of steps described below. First shoulder lines 33 and 41 of patterns 27 and 29, respectively are sewn together to form a shoulder seam for the shirt. Next the top of sleeve pattern 10 is inserted into the armhole regions 35, 39. This placement is effected by: aligning side D-F of projection 19 with line M-L of armhole region 35; aligning side E-G of projection 21 with line Q-P of armhole region 39; and aligning arcuate shoulder portion 17 (E-C-D) of sleeve pattern 10 with line Q-R-M of combined armhole regions 39 and 35. Centering is effected by matching points C and R. After the patterns are placed as described, a continuous seam is sewn to join sleeve pattern 10 with body patterns 27, 29. This seam is stitched continuously, starting at points L/F and proceeding in sequence through points M/D, R/C, Q/E, and FIG.
To close the garment, sides 13 and 15 of sleeve pattern 10 are sewn together such that points A, H and F match points B, J and G, respectively. The side seam is then continued by sewing sides 31 and 37 together with points K and L matching points N and P respectively.
The finished garment is illustrated in FIGS. 4 and 5. Importantly, it is the bias or diagonal seaming of the sleeve which permits the wearer of the finished garment to raise an arm to a fully vertical position without restraint or pull in the garment. In addition it is the bias plane across projections 19, 21 which provides easement of the horizontal pull around the back and chest areas of the garment. I
The appearance ofthe finished garment is characterized by a generally triangular and downwardly pointing projection in the underarm portion of the sleeve, the projection being formed by individual projections 19, 21 of sleeve pattern 10. In effect, the sleeve and its parts have been juxtaposed relative to the body so as to utilize the bias or diagonal planes of the fabric. Wherever stress of the fabric might occur due to arm movement, a bias or diagonal plane is provided which yields to the movement.
The sleeve and armhole design described above provides a smooth, body-contoured underarm region of extraordinary pliancy and comfort. The design is appropriate to shirts, blouses, dresses, jackets, coats, under garments, etc. It has use in garments for men, women and children, and may be employed in pullover garments as well as garments which open from the front or back. Moreover, since the underarm design does not affect styling of the garment, it may be incorporated into high fashion wearing apparel as well as work clothes, sports wear, etc. In addition, the garment is as simple to cut and assemble as conventional sleeve and armhole arrangements.
While I have described and illustrated one specific embodiment of my invention, it will be clear that variations of the details of construction which are specifically illustrated and described may be resorted to without departing from the true spirit and scope of the invention as defined in the appended claims.
1. A sleeve garment affording the wearer considerablyimproved freedom of arm motion by eliminating the motion-restricting lateral underarm seam employed in conventional garments, said sleeved garment comprising:
a body portion having a side seam and an armhole opening disposed above said side seam, said armhole opening having a regularly curved shoulder region and a pair of sides which converge downwardly along the side of said body portion to meet the top of said side seam at a location substantially below the armpit of the wearer; and
one-piece sleeve characterized by: two-longitudinally extending sidesjoined together to provide a single sleeve seam; a regularly curved shoulder region at one end of said sleeve contoured to match the shoulder region of said armhole opening, said shoulder regions of said sleeve and said armhole opening being joined to form a shoulder seam; and an underarm region including two bias-cut generally triangular projections each having a first side comprising an extension of a respective longitudinally-extending side of said sleeve, said projections being joined along said first sides to form an extension of said sleeve seam, said projections each having a second side intersecting said regularly-curved shoulder region of said sleeve at an abrupt angular transition as distinguished from joining the shoulder region of said sleeve in a V 2. The garment according to claim 1 wherein the angle between said first and second sides of each of said projections is approximately 3. The garment according to claim 2 wherein the top of said sleeve, as defined by its shoulder region and said two projections, is symmetrical relative to an apex of said regularly curved shoulder region.
4. A sleeved garment affording the wearer considerably improved freedom of arm motion by substantially eliminating bunching and wrinkling of material in the underarm region of the garment, said sleeved garment comprising:
a body portion having a side seam and an armhole opening disposed above said side seam, said armhole opening having a regularly curved shoulder region and a pair of sides which converge downwardly along the side of said body portion to meet the top of said seam at a location substantially below the armpit ofthe wearer; and one-piece sleeve characterized by: two-longitudinally extending sides joined together to provide a single sleeve seam; a regularly curved shoulder region at one end of said sleeve contoured to match the shoulder region of said armhole opening, said shoulder regions of said sleeve and said armhole opening being joined to form a shoulder seam; and an underarm region including two bias-cut generally triangular projections each having a first side com rising an extension of a respective longitudmal y-extendmg side of said sleeve, said projections being joined along said first sides to form an extension of said sleeve seam, said projections each having a second side which abruptly intersects said regularly-curved shoulder region of said sleeve, said second sides being respectively joined to said two downwardly converging sides of said armhole opening such that said extension of said sleeve seam is aligned with and meets said side seam and such that said projections extend a substantial distance below the armpit of the wearer.
5. The garment according to claim 4 wherein the angle between said first and second sides of each of said projections is approximately 30.
6. The garment according to claim 5 wherein the top of said sleeve, as defined by its shoulder region and said two projections, is symmetrical relative to an apex of said regularly curved shoulder region.
* i I I
|Cited Patent||Filing date||Publication date||Applicant||Title|
|US22906 *||Feb 8, 1859||Improvement in underground-drain plows|
|US1986217 *||Jun 3, 1933||Jan 1, 1935||Luciano E Pilla||Method of designing and constructing coat sleeves|
|US2036013 *||Apr 11, 1935||Mar 31, 1936||Berman Ralph E||Garment with semiraglan sleeve|
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|International Classification||A41D27/10, A41D27/00|