US 3860046 A
A lightweight, diaphanous narrow woven elastic fabric suitable for use as the shoulder strap for brassieres. The fabric comprises monofilament nylon, monofilament polyester, or monofilament polypropylene filling yarns woven with covered elastic warp yarns.
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
United States Patent Golf, Jr. et al.
[ Jan. 14, 1975 GOSSAMER SHOULDER STRAP FOR BRASSIERES Inventors: Richard E. Goff, Jr.; Joseph A.
Priestley, both of Barrington; Thomas L. Staffier, Pawtucket, all of R.I.
Johnson & Johnson, New Brunswick, NJ.
Filed: Jan. 2, 1973 Appl. No.: 320,230
U.S. Cl. 139/421 Int. Cl D03d 15/08 Field of Search 139/421-423,
References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 4/1957 Moore 139/421 4/1958 Roberts, .lr 139/420 R 3,073,004 1/1963 Zeise, Jr 139/420 C 3,172,430 3/1965 Weidhaas.... 139/422 3,597,300 8/1971 Miller 139/421 X FOREIGN PATENTS OR APPLICATIONS 282,074 5/1966 Australia 139/421 1,426,301 12/1965 France 139/421 OTHER PUBLICATIONS DuPont Technical Information Fibers Lycra Spandex Fiber, Bulletin L-59 June, 1968. Narrow Fabric Weaving, Thompson and Bick Harlequin Press, 1952. pgs. 186 to 202.
Primary Examiner-James Kee Chi  ABSTRACT A lightweight, diaphanous narrow woven elastic fabric suitable for use as the shoulder strap for brassieres. The fabric comprises monofilament nylon, monofilament polyester, or monofilament polypropylene filling yarns woven with covered elastic warp yarns,
7 Claims, 2 Drawing Figures PATEHTEU JAN 1 4 I975 GOSSAMER SHOULDER STRAP FOR BRASSIERES This invention relates to narrow woven elastic fabrics which are lightweight, translucent, very open woven and diaphanous and more particularly to such fabrics having sufficient power and stretch characteristics so as to be suitable for use as a shoulder strap for brassieres. Originally shoulder straps for brassieres were made from non-elastic fabric, however, in recent times a number of shoulder straps have been developed which have stretch or elastic properties. The stretch shoulder strap provides the wearer with greater comfort, flexibility and mobility and has gained considerable acceptance in the intimate apparel industry. A problem involved in making stretch shoulder straps for brassieres is to produce a fabric having sufficient power and correct stretch characteristics to provide the support required in a brassiere. Though this has been accomplished in making stretch shoulder straps for the more standard types of brassieres it has been extremely difficult, and to our knowledge nobody has developed a gossamer, or diaphanous light-weight, shoulder strap suitable for use with the very fancy, delicate, translucent and transparent fabrics now being utilized in the manufacture of brassieres. The problem is to develop an extremely delicate fabric which has the critical properties of power and stretch so as to provide the support required in a shoulder strap for a brassiere.
It is readily apparent that the lighter, more open the narrow woven elastic fabric the more difficult it will be to obtain the necessary power in that fabric and make it suitable for use as a brassiere shoulder strap. The more power provided in the strap the more difficult it is to give the fabric the desired delicate appearance required for intimate apparel. This problem is magnified when considering that the strap must withstand normal home washing and drying and still maintain the correct power characteristics.
It should be pointed out that the term power is meant the force in pounds required to stretch the narrow woven fabric a specific amount. A shoulder strap for a brassiere has an elongation or stretch of from 40 percent to 1 percent of its original length. If the strap has an elongation in the 40 percent to 75 percent range it must have a power factor of at least 0.55 pounds to stretch the strap 30 percent when 10 pounds is required to stretch the strap to full elongation. The strap must have a power of less than 3.10 pounds to stretch the strap 30 percent when pounds is required to stretch the strap to full elongation. If the strap has an elongation in the 75 percent to 110 percent range the strap must have a power factor of at least 0.98 pounds to stretch the strap 50 percent when 10 pounds is required to stretch the strap to full elongation and a power of less than 5.06 pounds to stretch the strap 50 percent when 25 pounds is required to stretch the strap to full elongation.
We have now developed a gossamer, diaphanous, shoulder strap for use with the most delicate and fancy brassieres. Our new shoulder strap is lightweight, very open woven translucent, may be readily seen-through, and has all of the desirable advantages that make it suitable for use with the most delicate, sheerest fabrics used in the manufacture of brassieres.
Furthermore our new diaphanous shoulder strap has sufficient power and the desired stretch characteristics which make it suitable for use on all sizes and types of brassieres. Also our new improved diaphanous shoulder strap for brassieres may be readily washed in home or commercial laundries without losing any of its desirable properties.
In accordance with the present invention our new diaphanous shoulder strap for brassieres comprises a narrow woven elastic fabric comprising a set of warp yarns and a set of filling yarns woven together in any of the standard weaves but preferably in a plain weave such as a one-over-one weave. The filling yarns are monofilament nylon yarns, monofilament polyester yarns, or monofilament polypropylene yarns having a denier of from to 250 and preferably from I00 to 190. The finished picks in the final fabric are from about 60 to 120 picks per inch. The warp yarns are elastic yarns made from a spandex core having a denier of from 420 to 840 or equivalent cut or extruded rubber having a classification of from to 60. The spandex or equivalent core is wrapped with two or more monofilament or multifilament yarns with the wrapping yarns having a total denier of or less. The warp count in the final fabric is from 32 to 64 yarns per inch. The warp yarns in the edge portions of the fabric are a texturized yarn and preferably texturized nylon to produce smooth soft edges in the final shoulder strap.
The resultant narrow woven fabric is translucent and may be readily seen through. The fabric has excellent cross-sectional stability yet is soft and smooth. The final narrow woven fabric has a stretch of from 40 percent to percent of its original length and a power factor of from 0.55 pounds to 5.06 pounds as previ ously described.
The invention will be more fully described in conjunction with the accompanying drawings wherein:
FIG. 1 is a schematic representation in plan view of the new narrow elastic shoulder strap of the present invention; and
FIG. 2 is an enlarged photographic illustration of the new diaphanous elastic shoulder strap in plan view.
Referring to the drawings there is sbown a diaphanous narrow woven elastic fabric 10 suitable for use as the shoulder strap in a brassiere. The fabric comprises monofilament filling yarns 11. The filling yarns may be either monofilament nylon yarns, monofilament polyester yarns, or monofilament polypropylene yarns. The monofilament filling yarns have a denier of between 70 to 250 and preferably between 100 and 190. If the filling yarns have a denier of less than 70 the strap will have poor wall stability and will tend to curl or twist during use. If the filling yarns have a denier over 250 the strap will be scratchy and rough and will have a mottle effect rather than the see-through or translucent effect of the strap of the present invention.
The filling yarns provide stiffness and cross-sectional stability in the strap so that it lies flat during use. The filling yarns are translucent and produce the desired gossamer, see-through effect in the final strap. In the finished strap there are approximately 60 to I20 filling yarns per inch of length and preferably from about 70 to 90 filling yarns per inch of length. If fewer filling yarns are used the strap does not have sufficient crosssectional stability and stiffness.
In the direction of the length of the strap there are a plurality of warp yarns 12. The yarns are elastic yarns and any of the standard covered or wrapped elastic yarns may be used. The core of the elastic yarns has a size of from 420 denier to 840 denier if spandex cores are used. If equivalent cut or extruded rubber cores are used they should have a size of from 85to 60. The size of the core is extremely important in the final strap in order to provide the requisite power and stretch while maintaining the translucent, see-through properties. The elastic core yarns are wrapped with lightweight yarns to obtain the desired combination of power and delicacy. It is preferred that the cores be double wrapped and that they be wrapped with yarns having a total denier of 100 or less; for example, suitable wrapping may be accomplished by a double wrap of two 20 denier monofilament nylon yarns. If desired either multifilament or monofilament yarns may be used for the wrapping yarns. The strap has a count in the wrap direction of from 32 to 64 yarns per inch.
The fabric may be woven in any of the standard weaves though a one-over-one plain weave is preferred for simplicity. Also the warp yarns may be placed in desired patterns in order to produce a stripe or similar decorative effect in the fabric.
In using monofilament filling yarns the edges of the fabric become quite harsh and hence the warp yarns used along the edges of the fabric should be texturized yarns 13 such as texturized nylon. The texturized yarns has the elasticity required in the elastic fabric and also covers and softens the monofilament yarns along the edges of the fabric.
The resultant brassiere strap is translucent and diaphanous to the extent that fine printing may be read through the fabric. This is more clearly shown in the photograph shown in FIG. 1. The brassiere strap has cross-sectional stability so that it lies flat during use and has sufficient power to maintain the desired support during use. There is no pulling in of the width; i.e., necking down, of the strap when stresses are applied and the strap remains stable.
It should be understood that the invention herein illustrated and described is intended to be representative as certain changes may be made therein without departing from the clear teachings of the disclosure. Ac-
cordingly reference should be made to the following appended claims in determining the full scope of the invention.
1. A diaphanous narrow woven fabric having stretch properties suitable for use as a shoulder strap for brassieres consisting of: a set of filling yarns and a set of warp yarns woven together, said filling yarns selected from the class consisting of monofilament nylon yarns, monofilament polyester yarns, and monofilament polypropylene yarns, said filling yarns having a denier of at least to maintain fabric wall stability, and no greater than 250 to provide the diaphanous effect, and said fabric containing from 60 to 120 filling yarns per inch so that the fabric has cross-sectional stability and stiffness, the center portion of the set of warp yarns comprising elastic yarns, said elastic yarns having an elastic core having a denier of from 420 to 840, said core being wrapped with yarns having a total. denier of less than 100, the edge portions of the set of warp yarns comprising a plurality of texturized yarns to provide smooth soft edges in the narrow woven elastic fabric, whereby said narrow woven elastic fabric has a longitudinal elongation of from 40 percent to 1 10 percent and a power if the longitudinal elongation is: in the 40 percent to percent range of more than 0.55 pounds and a power if the longitudinal elongation is: in the 75 percent to 110 percent range of more than 0.98 pounds.
2. A narrow woven elastic fabric according to claim 1 wherein the filling yarns are monofilament nylon yarns having a denier of from to 190.
3. A narrow woven elastic fabric according to claim 1 wherein the elastic cores used in the warp yarns are spandex cores.
4. A narrow woven fabric according to claim 3 wherein the spandex core is double wrapped with two 20 denier monofilament yarns.
5. A narrow woven fabric according to claim 1 wherein the warp yarns in the edges of the warp set are texturized nylon yarns.
6. A narrow woven fabric according to claim 1 wherein there are from about 32 to 64 warp yarns per inch.
7. A narrow woven fabric according to claim 1 wherein the filling yarns are nylon monofilament yarns having a denier of from 100 to 190, the warp yarns in the center portion of the warp set have a spandex core wrapped with two 20 denier monofilament yarns, and the warp yarns in the edge portions of the warp set are texturized nylon yarns, said fabric having from about 32 to 64 warp yarns per inch.