Improvement in garments having body and sleeves
US 38757 A
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UNITED STATES PATENT GEEICE.
HARMON OSLER, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.
IMPRVEMENT IN GARMENTS HAVING BODY AND SLEEVES.
Specification forming part of Letters Patent N 0. 38,757. dated June 2, `1863.
To all whom it may concern:
Be it known that LBARMON OsLER, of the city of Philadelphia and State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new Improvement in Coats and Analogous Garments; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full and exact description thereof, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon.
The natureof my invention consists in making the garment of one piece of cloth having but two seams, (one on each side of the garment.) The seams start at that part ot the arm nearest the hand at the letters Q and R, Figure et, and run up the arm toapoint marked letters P and F, Fig. 4, to the sleeve-head where it joins the back, and from thence under the arm to a point marked O and G, Fig. 3, at the front of the side, and from thence across the breast in a line with the breast-pocket to a point marked N H, just below the roll ofthe lapel of the coat.
To enable others skilled in the art to make use of my invention, I will proceed to describe its construction thus.
I take the measure for a coat, gown, shirt, or other garment having body and sleeves in the usual way-say as follows: iirst, length of coat from nape of the neck to the bottom of the coatsay thirty-three inches; second, length of sleeve from middle of back to the hand, the arm being placed in a horizontal position-say thirty-three inches; third, size of breast around the body close under the armssay thirty-six inches. This last measure is the base or guide from which to form the relative proportions of the coat.
To draft the pattern, (referring to Fig. l, unless otherwise mentioned,) I draw a vertical line to represent the middle of the back, and I establish two points thereon thirty-three inches apart for the length of the coat, (see points marked 0, cipher, at the bottom ofthe coat, and A at the nape of the neck.) Through this point A, I draw a horizontal line, and produce it to B B each way thirty-three inches, (the length of the sleeve.)
Back: I then proceed to form the back by laying off the following distances, which are certain proportions of the third or breast measure, above mentioned, (as any draftsman of coats will readily understand,) along said vertical line, viz from A to C, six inches; A to D, nineinches; A to E, ten and one-half inches. Through each of these points G D 4and EI draw other horizontal lines, and produce them, respectively, to F F G G H H; and along these horizontal lines I measure each way C to F, eight inches,to find the backof the side; D to G, twelve and three-quarter inches, to find the front of the armhole E to H, twenty-two and one-half inches, to find the front of the coat. I then draw a semicircular line from F to Gr, which forms the bottom of the armhole.
To form the neck and fore part, I measure upward along the said vertical line the following distances, (which are also certain proportions ofthe third or breast measure aforesaid,) to wit: A to I, three and one-half inches; A to J, six inches; A to K, twelve inches. Through each of these pointsIJ K, I draw other horizontal lines, and produce them both ways to L L() O M M N N. Along these horizontal lines I measure right and left, as follows: I to L, three inches I to 0, eleven and one-half inches J to M, two inches; Kto N, seven and one-half inches. I then draw a curved line from A both ways to L, and eX- tend it to M, and thus form the neck. Then I draw a line from J to N, connectingit with M by a curved line, as per drawing, and thus I form the front of the lapel. Then a line drawn from N to O forms the seam on the fore part, indicated by letters N H and O G, Fig. 3, and in which seam is inserted an outside breast-pocket.
Sleeve: To form the sleeve, I measure from B to R, six inches; B to tg, six inches; O to P, seven inches. I draw a line slightly curved from Qto lt. Another curved lineis drawn from Q to F, and another from R to P, and still another from P to O. This being done on each side of the coat, the two sleeves are formed, bein g twenty inches wide at the elbow, as now worn.
Skirt: To form the skirt, I measure from 0 (cipher) at the bottom of the back to both s s twenty-two and one-half inches. I then draw a line from G to H, and from H to S. This being done on each side of the coat the skirt is formed.
To join the coat, I place P to F and R to Q, and the seam being sewed the sleeve is made. (See same letters, Fig. 4.) Then I place O to G and N to H, and thus join the bottom of the fore part to the skirt, as will be seen by the same letters in Fig. 3. The line F G is then sewedto the line O P, and this makes the seams under the arm as in Figs. 3 and 4. Thus it can be seen that one seam from the hand, up `the back part of the arm, and thence under thearm to the front, and thence across the breast at the pocket, on each side ofthe coat, joins it together, and makes but two seams, the whole being one entire piece of cloth. Y
Collar: This may be cut as seen in Fig. 2; but there being no advantage to be gained thereby it is not claimed as part of this invention.
a a a represent the neck, b b the collar, c c the lapel. The collar must be pieeed as represented by the dotted lines.
be no possibility of getting other shades in dierent parts of the coat, which has occurred in many instances in making military clothing.
AFourth. Economy in material. Where whole pieces of cloth are cut into kind of garment the pattern can be reversed alternately, the sleeve of one coat fitting completely to the skirt ofthe other, so that no oifal is left, but, on the contrary, there is a saving of at least one-eighth of material.
Fifth. Serviceability. Having sofew seams there will be very little, if any, ripping.
Sixth. Comfortable it. The coat is so constructed that the arm is without the least restraint; and, besides, it so catches at the nape of the neck that it keeps itself in a perfect balance and can neither swing off at the front or back. r
What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-
A garment, havin g body and sleeves drafted in one piece, and formed by the sutures NH, O G, F P, and R Q, on each side, substantially as shown and described.
. HARMON OSLER.
H. OsLER., Jr., GEO. H. HoUGH.