US 478281 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
(NoModeL) R. HAMILTON 8v J. G. LEWIS.-
TROUSERS, 550., AND PATTERN THEREFOR; No. 478,281. Patented July 5, 1892.
knee-line B and the point B at the top of the NITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.
RICHARD HAMILTON AND JOHN G. LEWIS, OF JEFFERSON CITY, MISSOURI;
SAID HAMILTON ASSIGNOR TO SAID LEWIS.
TROUSERS, 84.0., AND PATTERN THEREFOR.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Application filed September 22, 1891 T0 on whom it may concern- Be it known that we, RICHARD HAMILTON, a subject of the Queen of Great Britain, and JOHN G. LEWIS, a citizen of the United States, residing at Jefferson City, in the county of Cole and State of Missouri, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Garments and Patterns Therefor, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.
This invention has relation to garments such as pantaloons, overalls, &c.and to a pattern therefor.
The objects and advantages will appear in the following description, and the novel features of the invention will be particularly set forth in the claims.
Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 is a diagram of the back, crotch, and fiy-piece laid flat as when applied-to the material from which the garment is to be cut. Fig. 2 is adiagram of the front. Fig. 3 is a front elevation of a garment produced from the patterns represented in Figs. 1 and 2. Fig. 4 is a rear elevation.
Like letters refer to like parts in all the figures.
It is customary to lay patterns of trousers and overalls lengthwise of the goods, the latter being of sufficient width. By our invention we can make garments for the lower limbs, including drawers from goods of less width and require less goods in each garment than is required by the older patterns. We form the whole back in one piece, including the crotch-piece. The shape required to fit the seat is produced by folding the back upon itself and stitching along any pair of lines A or A and we may spread the surplus thus caused between said lines on the seat and stitching said surplus to the seat, thus producing a garment that will outwear those out and made by the old style. No point 011 the inseam B B B on the back of the leg extends inside of a perpendicular line with the inseam falls above in place of below the seatline B so that a good fit at the crotch can be secured. The crotch is seamless, as will be seen, by the fact that the central extension or crotch-piece passes from the seat on the back Patent No. 478,281, dated July 5, 1892.
- Serial No. 406,443. (NomodeL) around the crotch and to the top of the front, being integral with the buttonhole-fiy and is stitched to each leg of the garment on each side of the crotch-seams between the fronts where they are joined. These advantageous dispositionsof the outlines will be more readily understood by direct reference to the drawlngs.
A, Fig. 1, represents the pattern for the back in one piece.
The dotted lines A and A are the knee and hip lines, respectively, of the pattern. The outer side lines A of the pattern may be straight and coincide with the edges of the goods from which the garment is cut, and for nicety in fitting the limbs and hips said lines may be inwardly curved, as shown at A or gores may be formed on the top for fitting the hips and waist. In ordinary garments these lines A and parts of gores A may be omitted. Parallel with the lines A are the inseam-lines A of the back of the legs, which at their upper extremities extend inwardly a short distance, as at A this extension inwardly being to allow width for seam parallel to A when making into a garment. Between the lines A is formed a substantially-triangular crotch plate or piece A terminating in a parallelogrammic extension'A ,which is folded So on line A to form the buttonhole-fiy of the garment, The fronts are formed after pattern B, (shown in Fig. 2,) which has the knee and hip lines B and B dotted thereon. The outer lines B may be straight, coinciding with the edge of the goods from which it is cut, and with the outerlines A of the back. From about the knee-line and extending above the hip-line is a side gore-like extension B which gives the fullness at the thigh required. It 0 will be noticed that this point or gore-shaped piece B extends farther outward from the pattern than the old style.
Having the above-described pieces to make the garment, we fold the back upon itself and 9 5; stitch along any pair of lines A or A thus bringing the points A together. i The surplus between the lines A and A is taken up and then spread and stitched to the seat, as seen at A in Fig. 4, this leaving the triangular roo crotch-piece A with its integral fly-piece A two of the front still attached. We then take patterns 13 and stitch same together along the line B B. While doing so if a triple thickness is desired on the crotch, the crotch-piece attached to the back is stitched inside the said lines B along lines A. If only double thickness is desired, the lines B are stitched together without stitching said lines A between the same, and the piece A is stitched, as afterward specified. After joining the lines 13 we stitch the inseam-lines 13 and B of front to the inseam-lines A of back. If the triple crotch is then being used, there will be a surplus between the lines A which surplus is spread out and stitched to the front each side of the line B said stitching coming to a point at the end of cut 13*". If only double thickness is used, the crotch-piece A after stitching lines B and B to A is still free, andis then turned under on lines A and stitched to the fronts on each side of the line B, said stitching coming to a point at the end of cut B. The fly -piece B is turned under the right-hand front on the line B and stitched to said front, thus forming the button-stand for the flybuttons. The piece 13 on the left hand is then turned under on the line 13 and the buttonhole-fly, which was previously folded on the line A and the buttonholes made in same, is then turned in and stitched to the under side along with piece B to the left-hand side by stitching, (indicated at C'.) The outer edges B are then stitched to A and the garment is then complete, with the exception of the waistband, which is stitched on according to old style. Such portions of the seat as are brought into a double ply by stitching on any of thelines A A are herein after designated as a surplus take-up, in that it is an excess of material which is taken up by stitching to produce a desired fit, and is then spread out and stitched to the seat as a reinforce, instead of being cut out and thrown aside as waste. lhe integral surplus take-up constitutes one of the useful features of our invention.
What We claim is-- 1. A pattern for a nether garment, comprising a back and seat portion, a back for each leg and a central longitudinal fly-piece, and an intermediate crotch-piece integral with the back and seat portion and fiy-piece, as set forth.
2. A pattern for a nether garment, comprising a back and seat portion, a back for each leg, a central longitudinal fly-piece, and an intermediate crotch-piece integral with the back and seat portion and separated from the same at its junction therewith by inclined slits.
3. A nether garment comprising seat, body, and leg back portions, a crotch-piece integral with the seat portion, and a fly-piece forming a continuation of the crotch-piece, said seat portion being folded and stitched to form a double-ply reinforce.
In testimony whereof we affix our signatures in presenceof two witnesses.
RICHARD HAMILTON. JOHN G. LEXVIS. Witnesses:
HUGH LOGAN, JAS. HoUoHIN.