US 538863 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
. (No Model.)
I 2 eeeeeeeeeeee 1. OYER. UFAGTURE 0P FIGURED FABRIGS.
Patented May '7, 1895.
4 F'I I3: I.
(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.
, RBOYER. MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED FABRIGS.
N0. 538,8 63. Patented May 7, 1895.
the stems and leaves of flowers, &c.
n'rnn rr 'FERNANI) BOYER, OF PARIS, FRANCE.
MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED FABRICS.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N 0. 538,863, dated May '7, 1895.
Application filed July 3,1894. Serial No- 516,427. (No model.) Patented in France June 19,1894, and in England June 21,
1'0 all whom it may concern:
Be it known that I, FERNAND BOYER, a citizen of the Republic'of France, residing at Paris, France, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inthe Manufacture of Figured Fabrics, (for which patents have been granted in France, dated June 19, 1894, and in Great Britain, No. 12,037, dated June 21, 1894,) of which the following is a specification. 4
This invention relates to the manufacture of figured fabrics, including the mode of producing the ornamentation, the fabric produced, and the mechanism employed in a part of the operation.
In order that my invention may be the better understood I will explain that by weaving, only very restricted effects in colored designs can be produced in fabrics, and by the means at present employed for the manufacture of rich embroidered fabrics (such as those made at Lyons, France, for example) they are necessarily very costly.
According to my invention I am enabled to produce fabrics possessing the richness of embroidered fabrics and having the same variety of color, by combining the effects produced by weaving with those produced by embroidery. p L
In carrying out my invention, I first weave on a Jacquard loom the simpler parts of the design, such as arabseques, ornaments, vases, This is done in the weaving of the fabric itself, and spaces are left in the design for the more highly complex parts, such as flowers, for example. I then embroider the parts of the design omitted in the weaving, on an embroidery machine, such as aSwiss embroidery machine. The embroidery is worked into the fabric at thevacant spaces left in the woven design in such a manner as to combine and unite .the two parts. In order to thus combine the woven part of the design with the embroidered part of the design it is necessary to be very exact in the registry; and I employ a Swiss embroidery machine the width of which is a multiple of that of the loomthat is to say, for
furniture or upholstery fabrics for example, which are 1 m. 30 in width, I employ an embroidering machine which is 1 m. 30 x 4 5 m. 20 in width. I sew together, edge to edge, four widths of fabric from the loom so that four similar fabrics may be embroidered at one time.
It is necessary to carefully adjust the fabric when placing it upon the embroidering machine, in order that the figures and flowers shall register properly with the woven stems and leaves. For this purpose the embroidering machine is provided with means for stretching the fabric in the required direction. The material is stretched to the desired extent at the proper place until the embroidering needle exactly follows the contour of the woven design when the index of the pantograph follows the design of the pattern.
If there be any irregularity which necessitates stretching or bringing together of any two points of the fabric, I sew at the back a silk ribbon between the points to be brought together. This ribbon will itself be covered by the embroidery threads and will be almost invisible as it will be afterward cut off between the flowers.
In the accompanying drawings I have illustrated my invention.
Figure 1 is a View showing the fabric as it comes from the loom, and Fig. 2 is a view of the same fabric after it has been completed by applying the embroidery.
a is the ground, b the branches and leaves produced in the weaving, and c the flowers, 850., produced on the Swiss embroidering machine.
In order that the operation may be performed under the best conditions it is necessary to embroider the fabric almost immediately after it comes from the loom. Under these conditions it is not necessary to dress or finish it, but recourse may be had to this means to avoid any stretching or shrinking of the fabric under the influence of the variations of temperature or of the atmosphere.
It will be understood that I do not claim' broadly embroidering fabrics which have figures woven in them. My invention is limited to first producing in the fabric a part of a fig ure or pattern on the loom and in the process of weaving the fabric, and then producing the remaider of the figure or pattern by embroidery in an embroidering machine; the last portion of the pattern or figure being made to register accurately with the first part in such a manner as to produce the effect of a complete figure produced by an embroidering machine.
I am aware that it is not new to print fig" ures on a portion of the surface of a woven fabric which has had stripes produced in it by weaving; and I am alsoaware that it is not new to weave a figured terry fabric and then color parts of the figures. These I do not claim as they do not come within the scope of my invention.
Having thus described my invention, I claim 1. The herein described method of producing figured fabrics which consists in first FERNAND BOYE R.
EDWARD P. MACLEAN, ALEXANDER MATHIEU.