US 593175 A
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Description (OCR text may contain errors)
(No Hbdel.) 4 Sheets--Sheet 1. J. M. HEY MAN. UNDERWEAR.
No. 593,175. Patented Nov. 2, 1897..
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No. 593,175. Patented Nov. 2, 1897.
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No. 593,175. Patented Nov. 2, 1897.
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I UNITED STATES PATENT @rricn.
JULIUS M. I-IEYMAN, OF NEIV YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO JOHN J. PAXTON,
' OF SAME PLACE.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 593,175, dated November 2, 1897.
' Application filed'April 14, 1897; Serial No. 632,091 (No model.)
To all whom it may concern.-
Be it known that I, J ULIUS M. HEYMAN, a citizen of the United States, residing at the city, county, and State of New York, have 5 made certain new and useful Improvements in Underwear, of which the following is a specification.
My invention relates to improvements in underwear, and more especially to that class of undergarments known as union suits.
In the manufacture of underwear, and more especially union suits for ladies, it has been customary to form means for permitting the dressing or undressing the person i with the same, consisting of either a vertical separation in the front body portion of the garment extending from the neck-opening to or near the leg portion, thereby separating the garment into two unwieldy and ill-fit- 2o ting halves, requiring the use of a line of vertically-disposed buttons, holes, stays, and the like over the sensitive portion of the body to secure the halves together, or the body portion has been knitted in one piece all around and up to or closely adjacent the shoulder portion and transversely separated at that point to allow of dressing or undressing, the transverse separation being closed by flaps passing over the shoulder and covering the 0 separation at each side of the neck,as shown in United States Patent to A. Frey, No. 496,302, dated April 25, 1893. Both of these constructions have many undesirable features, and both possess the disadvantage of not allowing 5 the use of a low-neck dress or enabling the wearer to dispense with a neck and upperchest covering at will for summer or house wear.
It is the object of my invention to construct an undergarment so as to allow of the use of the same for full or partial upper-chest covering and at the same time to allow of the body being readily dressed or undressed with the garment. To carry out this part of my 5 invention, which may be applied to undervests as well as to union suits, I form or cut an opening in the upper or shoulder portion to produce a low-necked garment and combine with it a cape with a neck-opening and a vertical separation in front, the cape having means for detachably securing it to the body portion of the garment at said cutaway portion. My invention in this regard comprehends various features of improvement hereinafter described,and further pointed out in the claims.
My invention further consists in a garment with a detachable sleeve and certain attaching means for carrying out the combination features of my invention.
In the drawings forming part of my specification, Figure l is a front view of a figure dressed with my improved union suit, the cape being in place. Fig. 2 is a rear view of the same. Figs. 3 and 4 are respectively onlarged sectional elevations of the front and rear of the shoulder portions of the garment on the inside. Fig. 5 is an enlarged inside plan view of the cape detached. -Fig. 6 is a front View of a figure dressed with my improved union suit, the cape being removed, showing the neck and shoulder opening in the garment. Fig. 7 is a front elevation, partly in section, showing the sleeve and shoulder portion detached; and Fig. 8 is a like view of the same parts attached.
Similar numerals of reference indicate corresponding parts throughout the several views.
In forming the garment-say the union suitto provide it with my detachable cape I proceed as follows:
So far as the application of the detachable cape to the shoulder portion of the garment is concerned I do not limit myself to its employment on union suits or in connection with a garment constructed as a whole, as herein after described, for it will be clear that such cape can be attached to the ordinary undervest.
In knitting the undergarment, the body heing formed as desired, I form the shoulder 7 portion and then cut out a portion of said shoulders, leaving an opening 1 and separate shoulder-flap 2, to which the sleeves 3 are subsequently secured by lines of stitching 4, the upper ends or shoulder portions 5 of the shoulder-flaps being subsequently secured together on the shoulder median line. The opening 1 may also be formed in knitting the garment. The opening thus formed in the shoulder portion of the garment may have an equal depth front and back, but I prefer that the upper edge of the garment in front be higher than at the rear, as shown at 6 and 7, respectively, in Figs. 1 and 2, and it may have any desired shape, taking combinations in V or square openings in both or either the front or rear.
The formation of the openingin the shoulder portion of the garment allows of its employment for summer use and low-'neck-dress purposes.
At 8 is the cape, (of the form shown either in Fig. 6 or 7 or any other shape confoi'ming to that of the opening 1,) which I have designed for detachably securing within the opening thus formed in the shoulder portion of the garment, the cape being provided with means for being detachably secured to the edges of the opening and to cover the body of the wearer at that point, as clearly illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2. By reference to Fig. 6 it will be seen that the cape is provided with an opening 9 for the neck of the wearer located closer to the front than the rear, where the opening 1 is deeper, and between the front lower edge 10 of the cape and the neck-opening the material is separated, so as to form breast-flaps 11.
To provide for the securement of the cape to the edge of the cut-away portion or opening 1 of the garment and to preserve a certain amount of transverse elasticity, or, in other words, to properly stay the edges of the opening 1 for the formation of buttonholes and attachment of buttons thereto (or the alternat-ive use of hooks and eyes or the like) and to allow of the material at the opening 1 being stretched transversely to increase the size of the opening in that direction, I secure to the fabric of the garment along the edge of the opening 1 four stays 12 13, the stay 12 being of material less elastic than the body of the garment and extending from a point closely adjacent the front and rear center line of the garment around the edge of the opening 1 across the shoulders to opposite points on the front and rear edge of the opening, the stays being secured by stitching in the usual or desired manner and provided with buttonholes 14., extending through the stays and the fabric of the garment, as shown in Figs. 1, 2, 4, and 5. The stay 13, of the same material as the stay 12, is also secured at the edge of the opening in the same manner and provided with buttonholes 15.
The stays 12 reinforce the fabric of the garment at its point of attachment and preserves its shape or contour, preventing it from inadvertently releasing itself from the shoulders, and preserves the contour of the garment at the points of attachment.
Between the ends of the stays 12 the fabric of the garment at the edge of the opening has its original elasticity preserved, the intermitting of these stays forming elastic sections 16, which allow of a stretching of the garment in the line of the stays to increase the size of the opening, at the same time drawing the edge of the opening about the person of the wearer, and thereby dispensing with the employment of pieces of elastic Webbin g for this purpose. The upper edge of the opening is provided with an ornamental fringe and a draw-string running through the fringe to contract the opening to the desired extent and firmly secure the upper portion of the garment to the body of the wearer, the stays 12 stiffening the fabric of the garment at the point.
The body of the cape is preferably of the same material as the body of the garment, and its outer edge on the inside is provided with a stay 17, of comparatively non-elastic material and otherwise ornamented as desired, from which stay projects buttons 18 to engage the buttonholes in the stays 12, the separation in the front portion of the cape being stayed on each side 19 20 and provided with buttons 21 and buttonholes 22, the lower button on the flaps 11 and the lower central button on the back-flap engaging the buttonholes 15 in the stays 13, the edge of the neckopening 9 in the cape 8 being provided with an ornamental fringe 23 and draw-string 24C for obvious purposes.
The cape on the inside is further provided with transverse stays 25, of comparatively inelastic material, secured to the fabric of the cape on the median line of the shoulder, and which prevents an undue stretching of the fabric of the cape along this line and firmly connects the draw-string about the neckopening with the shoulder of the garment. In this Way a very desirable undergarment is constructed having all of the advantages heretofore recited and the same advantages possessed by other garments of a like character in regard to dressing or undressing.
Instead of providing the body of the garment with permanent sleeves of either short or full length I can form the sleeve independently of the body of the garment and furnish the sleeve and the garment with means for detachably securing these parts together, thus allowing of employment of the garment under low-neck and short-sleeve conditions. In practicingthis part of my invention I proceed as follows: Instead of forming the full or short 'sleeve sections 3 on the garment or attaching them I form a short arm-stub 4 on the shoulder portion of the garment, which may be fringed and provided with a drawstring 4" for tightening the end of the stub about the arm, and on the exterior of the stub adjacent the edge 1 secure tabs 4, which may be short pieces of silk tape or the like, preferably three on each side. At 4 is a sleeve fashioned as usual, its end l being of sufficient width to enable it to pass over and lap the stub P", strings 4 being fixed to the interior of the sleeve adjacent its end 4.
To secure the sleeve and stub together, the sleeve is passed over the stub and the strings 4 passed through the tabset and there se ICC cured in place, as shown in Fig. 9. It is clear that the parts can be readily detached by untying the strings and pulling 01f the sleeve.
Having described my invention, I claiml. An undergarment cut away transversely at the upper portion to form a low-necked garment, in combination with a cape having a neck-opening and a separation from one edge to the neck-opening, and means for detachably securing the cape to the edges of said cut-away portion, substantially as described.
2. An undergarment cut away transversely at the upper portion to form a low-necked garment, in combination with a cape detachably secured to the edges of saidcut-away portion, and having a neck-opening and a separation between one of its edges and said neck-opening, and a stay secured to the cape in line with the neck-opening and extending to the shoulder portion of the garment, substantially as described.
3. As a new article of manufacture, a cape, having the neck-opening 9, the breast-flaps 11 formed by separating the fabric of the cape between one edge and the neck-openin g, a circumferential stay 17, a cross-stay 25 in line with the neck-opening, and a contractible edge formed on the neck-opening, substantially as described.
at. An undergarment cutaway transversely at the upper portion to form a low-necked garment, as at 1, stays 12 secured to the edges of said cut-away portion and extending from front to rear, the stays 13 secured to the garment at the front and rear central portions of the cut-away portion, the intermitted sections 16, 16 of the same fabric as the body of the garment, in combination with a cape having aneck-opening and a transverse separation, and means on the cape for securing it to said stays, substantially as described.
5. An undergarment cutaway transversely at the upper portion to form a low-necked garment, in combination with a cape, having a neck-opening, a contractible edging formed on the neck-opening, the cape being separated from one edge to the neck-opening, means for detachably securing such separation, and further means for detachably securing ,the edges of the cape to those of said cut-away portion, substantially as described.
6. An undergarment cut away, transversely at the upper portion to form a low-necked garment, in combination with a cape having a neck-opening and a separation from one edge to the neck-opening, a circumferential stay on the cape, and means for detachably securing said cape at the stay to the edges of said cut-away portion, substantially as described.
7 As a new article of manufacture, an undergarment cut away transversely at the upper portion to form a low-necked garment, as at 1, stays 12, 12, of less elastic material than the body of the garment secured to the edges of said cut-away portionand extending from front to rear, the intermitted sections 16, 16 of the same fabric as the body of the garment lying between the ends of the stays 12, 12, and a contractible edge formed on said cut-away portion, substantially as described.
8. In an undergarment, the combination with the sleeve-stub 4: on the shoulder portion of the garment, the sleeve P having an end opening of sufficient width to overlap the sleeve-stub 4, and means on the sleeve and stub and covered by the overlapping of the sleeve for detachably securing one to the other, comprising the tabs 4 on the sleeve stub and strings i on the inside of the sleeve end 4 substantially as described.
Signed at the city, county, and State of New York this 12th day of April, 1897.
JULIUS M. HEYMAN.
WILLIAM JAOOBSEN, S. B. KUHN.