US737244A - Boot or shoe. - Google Patents

Boot or shoe. Download PDF

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Publication number
US737244A
US737244A US12306302A US1902123063A US737244A US 737244 A US737244 A US 737244A US 12306302 A US12306302 A US 12306302A US 1902123063 A US1902123063 A US 1902123063A US 737244 A US737244 A US 737244A
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United States
Prior art keywords
sole
welt
edge
marginal portion
lining
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Expired - Lifetime
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US12306302A
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James E Jackson
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Individual
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/04Welted footwear
    • A43B9/06Welted footwear stitched or nailed through

Definitions

  • This invention relates to boots or shoes in which the marginal portion of the upper is turned outwardly and laid upon the mar-- Wardly instead of inwardly, as in an ordi-- nary shoe, in which the marginal portion of the upper is laid upon the outer face of the inner sole, and, moreover, in such shoes where 'a lining is employed that is turned outwardly with the upper the presence of the lining edges between the upper and outer sole prevents a water-tight seam from being formed at that point.
  • the invention has for its object to provide certain improvements whereby the portion of the upper adjacent vto the angle formed by bending outwardly its margin shall be eectively supported and prevented from sagging inwardly, and whereby the edge of the lining will be so disposed that it willneither interfere with making a water-tight seam nor exert a pulling action on the inner sole, tending to separate the latter from the outer sole.
  • Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 represent transverse sectional views through the fore part of a last and illustrating the various stages hereinafter described in the operation of'making a shoe in accordance with my invention, the said section beleft free'.
  • the intermediate piece f may be cemented to the outer sole, and the marginal portion'b of the lining may be cemented to theinner sole.
  • the upper is then pressed into the angle formed by the sides of the last, the edge of the intermediate piece, and the upper face of the marginal portion of the outer sole, the marginal portion of the upper being thus bent outwardly and caused toy lie upon the marginal portion of the outer sole, while the portion of the upper at and immediately above the angle formed therein is preferably caused to bear closely against the edge of the interme-y diate piece, all as shown in Fig. 4.
  • the upper being temporarily secured in the position shown in Fig. 4, a Welt g is then placed upon the upper surface of its outwardly-bent marginal portion, the inner edge of the welt bearing against the portion of the upper that lis supported by the edge of the intermediate piece. and outer sole by suitable fastening means, such as stitches h, as shown in Fig. 5, the
  • the Welt is then secured to the upper stitches being preferably laid in a channel in the outer face of the ou ter sole, which channel is afterward closed, as shown in Fig. (i.
  • the intermediate piece 5 j' performs the following functions, namely: First, it raises the inner sole, so that its edge supports the upper above the upper surface of the welt g, thus preventing the upper fromsagging inwardly; secondly, it forms a shoulder or support for the portion of the upper immediately adjacent to the angle formed by bending outwardly the margin of the upper, and thus constitutes a guide or rest for the inner edge of the welt, said inner edge being supported by the edge of the intermediate piece through the interposed portion of the upper; thirdly, by raising the foot supporting surface of the inner sole considerably above the outer sole the intermediate piece reduces the liability of the entrance of water that may find its way between the upper and the outer sole coming in contact with the foot of the wearer; fourthly, it separates the inwardly-turned marginal portion of the lining from the outer sole and causes said marginal portion to lie in substantially the plane of the exposed surface of the welt g, as shown in Fig
  • the intermediate piecef may extend the entire length of the inner sole, or it may extend only from the toe portion to or about to the breast of the heel, as shown in Fig. 7, or its rear end may be at any desired point.
  • the piece f should be of about the same width as the corresponding part of the inner sole, so that its edge will substantially coincide with the edge of the inner sole.
  • the welt g being of a length suitable to cover the outl wardly-turned portion of the upper.
  • the outwardly-turned portion of the upper may terminate at the forward portion of the shank or at the breast of the heel or at any other desired point between the toe and heel. It desired, however, the entire marginal portion of the upper, including the heel portion, may be turned outwardly and secured in the manner described, in which case theintermediate piece f would extend the entire length of the inner sole and the welt would extend around the heel.
  • a boot or shoe comprising an inner sole, an outer sole of greater area than the inner sole, an intermediate piece interposed between the two soles, an upper having its marginal portion turned outwardly on the marginal portion of the inner face of the outer sole, an upper-lining, and a welt laid upon the outwardly-turned portion of the upper and secured with said portion' to the outer sole, the thickness of the intermediate piece being such that it raises the inner sole above the upper surface of the welt, whereby the edge of the inner sole is caused to internally support the upper above the welt, the edge ofthe lining being confined between the inner sole and said intermediate piece.
  • a boot or shoe comprising an inner sole, an outer sole of greater area than the inner sole, an intermediate piece interposed between the two soles, an upper-lining having its marginal portion turned inwardly over the outer face of the inner sole and interposed between the inner sole and intermediate piece, an upper having its marginal portion turned outwardly on the marginal portion of the inner face of the outer sole, and a Welt laid upon the outwardly-turned portion of the upper and secured with said portion to the outersole, the intermediate piece not only raising the inner sole above the welt, but also cooperating with the inner sole in confining the marginal portion of the lining and locating the latterin the plane of the upper surface of the welt.
  • a boot or shoe comprising an inner sole, an outer sole of greater area than the inner sole, an intermediate piece interposed between the outer and inner soles, its edge being substantially flush with the edge of the inner sole, an upper having its marginal portion turned outwardly on the marginal portion of the inner face of the outer sole and bearing on the edge of the intermediate piece at and above the angle formed by the outward bending of said marginal portion, an upper-lining having its edge confined be- IOO IIO

Description

PATENTED-AUG. 25, 190s.
J. E. JACKSON.
vNo- 737,244.
BOOT oR'sHoB..
I a SHEETS-s115311.
N0 MODEL.
APPLICATION I ILBD SEPT. 12, 1902.v
lISISY'QS: v
'PATENTED AUG. 25,4 1903.
J, B. JACKSON. `BOUT 0R sRGB.
APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 12, 1902.`
2 SHEETS-sum 2.
NO MODEL.
mammals Frans co.. vnorauwo., WASHINGTON. D. c.
UNITED STATES Patented August 25, 1903.
PATENT OEEICE.
JAMES E. JACKSON, OELYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGrNOR TO .JOHN I* CALLAHAN, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS. Y
BooT 0R SHOE.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 737,244, dated August 25, 1903.
Application filed September l2, 1902. Serial No. 123,063. (No model.)
To a/ZZ whom it may concern:
Be it known that I, JAMES E. JACKSON, of Lynn, in the county of Essex and IState of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Boots or Shoes, of which the following is a specification.
This invention relates to boots or shoes in which the marginal portion of the upper is turned outwardly and laid upon the mar-- Wardly instead of inwardly, as in an ordi-- nary shoe, in which the marginal portion of the upper is laid upon the outer face of the inner sole, and, moreover, in such shoes where 'a lining is employed that is turned outwardly with the upper the presence of the lining edges between the upper and outer sole prevents a water-tight seam from being formed at that point. l
The invention has for its object to provide certain improvements whereby the portion of the upper adjacent vto the angle formed by bending outwardly its margin shall be eectively supported and prevented from sagging inwardly, and whereby the edge of the lining will be so disposed that it willneither interfere with making a water-tight seam nor exert a pulling action on the inner sole, tending to separate the latter from the outer sole.
The invention consists in the improvements which I will now proceed to describe and claim.
' Of the accompanying drawings, forming a part of thisl specification, Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 represent transverse sectional views through the fore part of a last and illustrating the various stages hereinafter described in the operation of'making a shoe in accordance with my invention, the said section beleft free'.
ing the shoe partially completed and without a heel.
' The same reference characters indicate the same parts in all the gures.
In making myimproved shoe the upper a and itslining b are placed upon a last c, upon which an inner sole d has also been placed, as shown'in Fig. 1. The marginal portion of the lining is then bent inwardly upon the outer faoe'of the inner sole, as shown in Fig. 2, theV marginal portion of the upper being An outer sole e, of greater area than the inner sole and having attached to its inner surface an intermediate piece f, is
jthen placed upon the outer face of the inner sole and upon the inwardly-turned marginal portion b of -the lining, as shown in Fig. 3, so that the said marginal portion of the lining will be interposed between the inner sole d and the intermediate piece f. The intermediate piece f may be cemented to the outer sole, and the marginal portion'b of the lining may be cemented to theinner sole. The upper is then pressed into the angle formed by the sides of the last, the edge of the intermediate piece, and the upper face of the marginal portion of the outer sole, the marginal portion of the upper being thus bent outwardly and caused toy lie upon the marginal portion of the outer sole, while the portion of the upper at and immediately above the angle formed therein is preferably caused to bear closely against the edge of the interme-y diate piece, all as shown in Fig. 4. The upper being temporarily secured in the position shown in Fig. 4, a Welt g is then placed upon the upper surface of its outwardly-bent marginal portion, the inner edge of the welt bearing against the portion of the upper that lis supported by the edge of the intermediate piece. and outer sole by suitable fastening means, such as stitches h, as shown in Fig. 5, the
The Welt is then secured to the upper stitches being preferably laid in a channel in the outer face of the ou ter sole, which channel is afterward closed, as shown in Fig. (i.
It will be seen that the intermediate piece 5 j', the thickness of which should be substantially equal to the combined thickness of the upper and welt, performs the following functions, namely: First, it raises the inner sole, so that its edge supports the upper above the upper surface of the welt g, thus preventing the upper fromsagging inwardly; secondly, it forms a shoulder or support for the portion of the upper immediately adjacent to the angle formed by bending outwardly the margin of the upper, and thus constitutes a guide or rest for the inner edge of the welt, said inner edge being supported by the edge of the intermediate piece through the interposed portion of the upper; thirdly, by raising the foot supporting surface of the inner sole considerably above the outer sole the intermediate piece reduces the liability of the entrance of water that may find its way between the upper and the outer sole coming in contact with the foot of the wearer; fourthly, it separates the inwardly-turned marginal portion of the lining from the outer sole and causes said marginal portion to lie in substantially the plane of the exposed surface of the welt g, as shown in Figs. 5, 6, and 7, and thereby reduces liability of the lining to exert a pulling action, that would tend to separate the edges of the inner sole and intermediate piece from the outer sole. This last-mentioned function is'due to the lining extending, as at J, between the inner sole and the intermediate piece. If it extended between theintermediate piece and the outer sole, then any spreading of the upper that would cause said upper and lining to be bent outward over the welt g would result in a purchase being taken on the inner edge of the welt and result in a heavy pull of the lining, tending to pry the edges of the intermediate piece and inner sole away from the outer sole. The fact that theinwardly-turned margin of the lining extends between the inner sole and the intermediate piece and in the plane of the upper or exposed surface of the welt prevents any such spreading as above referred to from resulting in a pulling purchase of the lining. The intermediate piecef may extend the entire length of the inner sole, or it may extend only from the toe portion to or about to the breast of the heel, as shown in Fig. 7, or its rear end may be at any desired point. The piece fshould be of about the same width as the corresponding part of the inner sole, so that its edge will substantially coincide with the edge of the inner sole.
I prefer to turn outwardly only the fore part of the upper, as indicated in Fig. 8, the
marginal portion of the heel part beingr turned inwardly under the inner sole and secured by McKay stitching or otherwise, the welt g being of a length suitable to cover the outl wardly-turned portion of the upper.
Itis obvious that the outwardly-turned portion of the upper may terminate at the forward portion of the shank or at the breast of the heel or at any other desired point between the toe and heel. It desired, however, the entire marginal portion of the upper, including the heel portion, may be turned outwardly and secured in the manner described, in which case theintermediate piece fwould extend the entire length of the inner sole and the welt would extend around the heel.
I claiml. A boot or shoe comprising an inner sole, an outer sole of greater area than the inner sole, an intermediate piece interposed between the two soles, an upper having its marginal portion turned outwardly on the marginal portion of the inner face of the outer sole, an upper-lining, and a welt laid upon the outwardly-turned portion of the upper and secured with said portion' to the outer sole, the thickness of the intermediate piece being such that it raises the inner sole above the upper surface of the welt, whereby the edge of the inner sole is caused to internally support the upper above the welt, the edge ofthe lining being confined between the inner sole and said intermediate piece.
2. A boot or shoe comprising an inner sole, an outer sole of greater area than the inner sole, an intermediate piece interposed between the two soles, an upper-lining having its marginal portion turned inwardly over the outer face of the inner sole and interposed between the inner sole and intermediate piece, an upper having its marginal portion turned outwardly on the marginal portion of the inner face of the outer sole, and a Welt laid upon the outwardly-turned portion of the upper and secured with said portion to the outersole, the intermediate piece not only raising the inner sole above the welt, but also cooperating with the inner sole in confining the marginal portion of the lining and locating the latterin the plane of the upper surface of the welt.
3. A boot or shoe comprising an inner sole, an outer sole of greater area than the inner sole, an intermediate piece interposed between the outer and inner soles, its edge being substantially flush with the edge of the inner sole, an upper having its marginal portion turned outwardly on the marginal portion of the inner face of the outer sole and bearing on the edge of the intermediate piece at and above the angle formed by the outward bending of said marginal portion, an upper-lining having its edge confined be- IOO IIO
tween the inner soie and intermediate piece, per, but aso raises the inner soie and causes to and a welt laid upon the outwardly-turned its edge to support the upper above the Welt. portion of the upper and stitched therewith In testimony whereof I have affixed my sigto the outer sole, the inner edge of the Welt nature in presence of two Witnesses.
5 bearing against the portion of the upper that is supported by the edge of the intermediate JAMES E JACKSON piece, so that the intermediate piece not only Witnesses: presents a shoulder that supports the inner EDWIN C. LEWIS, edge of the Welt through the interposed up- JAMES J. LEMMAR.'
US12306302A 1902-09-12 1902-09-12 Boot or shoe. Expired - Lifetime US737244A (en)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6412193B1 (en) * 2000-06-05 2002-07-02 Eddie Chen Waterproof shoe having stitch seam for drainage (I)
US6560899B2 (en) 1998-12-11 2003-05-13 Eddie Chen Waterproof shoe having stitch seam for drainage (I)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6560899B2 (en) 1998-12-11 2003-05-13 Eddie Chen Waterproof shoe having stitch seam for drainage (I)
US6412193B1 (en) * 2000-06-05 2002-07-02 Eddie Chen Waterproof shoe having stitch seam for drainage (I)

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