US 956238 A
Description (OCR text may contain errors)
' OOL'I'. APHJOATIOI "LIB 310.], "00.
MM Apr. 86, 19110.
DAVID WARREN, OI CHELSEA, MASSACHUSETTS.
Inclination at Letters Patent.
ll atentetl Apr. 28, 1910.
Ai amam aaa December 0, 1909. Serial No. 552,240.
To all whom it may concern:
lie it. known that 1, DAY") \V.\iuu:.\, a citizen of the United States, and resident of Chelsea, county of Sutlolk, State. of Massachusetts, have invented an improvement llt Coats, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like characters on the drawing representing like parts.
This invention has for its object the production, of an improved coat so constructed that the up )caranee and set of the arment is improv the labor and tune ret need in constructing the same, and greater economy secured in the material use ln coats as now made, whatever method or pattern be employed, so far as I am aware, it is custt mary to cut separately and attach a so-called under-collar, winch is stitched to the back of the top collar and to the main portion or body of the coat, such under-collar being invariably made of plain goods matching as nearly as miscible the general color of the goods from which the coat is made. The umlcr-eollar is made lll two halves seamed together at the middle of the back, and the cutting, tittmg and attachiny of the under-collar to the other mrts o the coat requires much time and abor, and must he done by highly skilled labor. (ireat uantities of under-collar material are uset annually bv tailoring coucerus, to str h an extent ttat under-collar fabric is a distinct article of manufacture and use in the tritde. in accordance with m v invention each half of the under-collar is out. with the lapel as an integral part of the front piece of the coat bodv, in such manner that when the collar and lapel are folded over the line of fold traverses the under-collar between the inner and outer edges thereof and intersects the end edge thereof, which edge when stitched to the corresmnding edge of the other half of the um er-collar is in line with the center seam of the coat back.
The coat made in accordance with my invention is adapted for the most expensive or high grade garments, for either men or women. and can be used with fancy or plain weaves with equal facility.
The novel features of my invention will be fully described in the subjoincd s citieation and particularly pointed out. in the following claim.
Figure 1 is a plan view of the patterns for cutting the front and back pieces of onehalf of a coat, body embodying my invention, showing the \unlcr-collar cut. as a unitary part ot' the. front. piece; Fig. '2 is a plan view of the facing pattern, with a. part of the top collar attached thereto; Fig. 3 is a plan view of the pattern for theta collar; "ig. 4 is an inner side view of tie a r part of the front piece and the under-co l ar showing the a )plICtlllUll thereto of the usual canvas. hair-c oth, and padding.
Inasmuch as the two halves of the coat.
body are cut, and made alike, I have herein illustrated the pieces or patterns for onehalf thereof, with the exception of the top collar, Fig. 3.
in cutting the coat in accordance with my present invention '1 make for each half of the body a front piece and a heel: piece B, these parts being cut as is now customary except inso far as relates to the cuttin of the under-collar and lapel with the rent piece. the said pieces A and ll being stitched to 'ether along the edges a,-b, giving the soon led spring to the cost at the side seams.
Thee-enter seam of the coat back is made 'hy-stitehin' together the two but pieces ong the ct ge b, as is common in .he manufacture of properly cut coats. and the shoulder seam is made y nnitin the edges a, b' of the pieces and B, it *ing understood that in cuttin the patterns a proper allowance is made ot the seams, in a manner Inmiliar to those skilled in the tailoring art.
In accordance with my present invention 1 cut he front iece with the edge a of the proper lengtli for the shoulder seam, but instead of continuing the cut forward and downward in an ineurved line, for the sttaclunent of the separate under-collar and part of the lapel. as is now done, I cut the edge u"'. which is to form a art of the neck seam of the armeut, sa id t. ge 0' extending laterally an upward beyond the edge a, ll
shown in Fig. l.
The inner ed e (1 forms a part of the bottom of one-lull ot' the under-collar C. shown as an integral part of the front piece A, the under-collar forming a continuation of the lower portion of the lapel, notched at 2 and also inte ral with the front piece A. T he upper ea or leaf portion of the under-collar is defined bv theedge a, Fig. I, the lower or inner e( e or stand portion a bein stitched to t 0 upper edge b of the back piece B in assemblin the coat, to form the neck seam thereof. e leaf portion a of the under-collar C comes at the middle of the back of the coat and is united by stitching in Fi 4, the facin .monly to the like edge of t e similar part at the other side of t e cost. In Fig. 1 the line of fold of the under-collar and lapel is indicated by, the dotted line 3-4, said line intersecting and traversing the under-collar 0 between its inner edge or stand portion a and outer edge e.
fter the usual lining, padding, etc. have been attached to the front iece as shown D an top collar E are atta ed, the top co lar being attached by a seam alon the line (1, Fig. 2, to the two facings and by a scam the edge a of the top collar is secured to the outer edge a of the under-collar and the lapel. Referring to lFi 2 the short upper edge 11' of the facing wi fall alon the shoulder seem at a when the rment 1S stitched together, the cutting of t facing and the top' collar being practically unchan from the present racticc.
That part 0 the under-collar C tween the inner or stand rtion a and the fold line stands up a vc the neck scam in the completed coat, to give the proper set fit of the collar about the neck of the wearer, in a manner similar to the upstanding set of the collar imfiarted by t e lower part'of the separate un r-collar com- By eliminating the separate under-collar I obviate the careful fittin and stitching of the aameupon and with ation to the ront and back pieces of the coat; I do away with the usual seam along the lower edge of the under-collar extending to the lower edge of the notch of the lapel, and I greatly improve the a pearance and set of the coat collar and o the entire coat.
Hsretofore it has been. proposed in the cutting of cheap working costs and frocks to extend the upper end of the lapel beyond the shoulder seam, the object being to make an under-collar as a part of the body of the coat, the inner or bottom ed of such cxtension falling in the limo the fold, but
as will be apparent such a method of cutting produces a coat having a collar without what is known as a collar stand and which will lieflat upon the coat body around the neck, in the manner of a sailorcollar. In cutting a coat in such manner it is impossible to make an upstandin collar, or to fit the collar around the neo of the ,wearer, and solid-color or plain fabrics 'are the only ones which can be used.
Referring to Figs. 2 and 8 is will be seen that the top collar E is somswhatwider at the middle portion than the ion hot the end edge or leaf irtion a of t e undercollar, and this difl'erence is important because it enablcs me to completely cover the seems neck seam when the collar is folded over, and I can var the set of the collar making it higher or ower around the nec of the wearer, without exposing the neck-seam or opening the seams and restitching. I thus in ractice make the neck-seam a little big or in the back, by adding to the top of the back piece B, and taking of! a similar amount from the width of the under-collar. Not only does the coat set better by this change, but the collar will lie closer and smoother about the neck and will not wrinkle or stand awa when the coat is buttoned or unbutton As coats are now made, with a. as state under-collar, they will frequently. snge in the set of the collar afterhavlng been worn a short time, so that the lbwer edge of the collar at the back will rise or lift up and expose the under-collar, giving to the cost a very unsightly appearance, but with a coat cut in accordance with my invention it is impossible for this to occur. As the under-collar in my invention is a rt of the front piece A it will always ho d the lapel and coat collar t ther in such manner that the front portion of the coat lies hat and smooth upon the wearer without pping. So, too, if the collar in the ed coat is a little too high or a little too low, it can be corrected by aimplz cha the itlilon ofi thehcrease or f0 d, f in raisteco artereiano ro exposing t h g neck-seam, because the ttar has been made at a higher point, as has beau described, and it will not be uncovered such refolding and of the coat co In Fig. 4 I ave shown the inner side of the front piece A cut in accordance with an invention, with the canvas G, hair-cloth and padding P a plied thereto, the canvas being secured to t a la 1 and under-collar outside the line of f d 8-4 padding stitches, as is usual. 0 plddtg is applied in usual manner after win the facing n and the top will! tached.
By cutting the coa't in accordance with my invention the canvas is carried in one piece up to the center or back seam of the coat collar, around the hack of the neck, as at G, Fig. 4, andthe hair-cloth extends at its fox-- ward edge H in a stra' t, continuous line from the shoulder seam own to the bottom of the lapel, parallel to andadjacmt-the line of fold, as shown in F' 4 so that the lapel and breast portion 0 the coat is held smoothly and snugly againstthe bod of the wearer without the use of binding rips or bridles heretofore necessa to eflect similar results. So too, by eliminating a Eareab binding strip or bridle there is no bunch or undue thickness of material along the line of fold and consequently the set of the collar and lapel is improved.
ounce My liwenilan l anmitathla to the pmd t lion of garmentof all grades, from he highest to the lowest, irrespective of the character or quality of the material used, and in all cases the up )earance, set and tit is greatly implored whi e the time and labor lt'qtlla'llt' for its production is materially deerea rd.
Uvereoata and outer-coats of various kinds are often worn with the collar turned up to protect the neck and thmat of the wearer, and it will he llllllllft'hl that with coats made in aeeordame with my invention and so worn no nn -ightly mater-collar, of a ditl'erent fabric from that of the body of the coat, will he e.\' need to View.
It will It! understtmd by those skilled in the art that in eiittin a coat, in accordance with my invention tie two thicknesses of fabric will he snper wsed. in order that two like parts, a right and a left, will he cut simultaneously, as is now the n'actice in urment cutting, the to collar dug out rom a folded piece of fa ric.
llaviu I fully described my invention, what. I e aim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:
In a coat, a front piece and a back piece,
tegral therewith, the under-collar and under-eolla r stand extending beyond the ahoulder point, the line of fol o the lapel traversing the undercollar between the undereollar stand and its leaf, the back ieee be-- ing lengthened at its upper end to our! the neck seam when attached to the inner edge of the under-collar stand, such lengthening of the hack )iece raising the neck learn nearer to the olded edge of the coat collar to he covered by the lea of the under-collar, and a facing and se arate top collar, the facing and top collar in united along one half the convex edge of t e latter the concave op xisite edge of said top collar being united to the outer edge of the under collar stand and to the edge of the lapel forming a continuation thereof.
In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.
. JOHN E. GALVIN,
Jenn C. Eownoe.