US 988541 A
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SHOE PATTERN. APPLICATION FILED 1'33. 19, 1.910.
JOS'PH Isaac/MM) Inventor P Wltnesses Attorneys Tu: NORRIS rl'rzns cm, wusmunwn, n. c.
JOSEPH BEAUCHAMP, 0F MONTREAL, QUEBEC, CANADA.
Specification of Letters Patent.
Patented Apr. 4, 1911.
Application filed February 19, 1910. Serial No. 544,737.
To all whom it may concern:
Be 1t known that I, Josnrn BEAUCI-IAMP, a citizen of the United States, residmg 1n the city and district of Montreal, in the Province of Quebec, Canada, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in ShoePatterns; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.
The invention to be hereinafter described relates to shoes, and more particularly to patterns for shoe uppers.
Broadly speaking, it comprises a one-piece hlucher consisting of a complete vamp and one complete quarter.
The main object of the invention is to provide a simple Blucher pattern involving a minimum waste of leather.
In order to more clearly disclose the construction and arrangement of the several parts of the invention, reference should be had to the accompanying drawings forming part of the present application.
Throughout the several figures of the drawings, like reference characters designate the same parts.
In the drawings: Figure 1 is a perspective View of a complete shoe in which the pattern is used; Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the quarter which is cut by a separate pattern to complete the upper of the shoe; Fig. 3 is a plan view of the pattern; Fig. 4 is an inside plan view of the eyelet strip, removed; Fig. 5 is a plan view of the toe cap, removed; and, Fig. 6 is a plan view of the tongue,'removed.
Single patterns comprising both vamp and quarters are well known. However, all patterns heretofore in use have involved a very considerable amount of waste. Though the waste in a single pattern be but little, yet the total amount of waste when a great number of shoes is turned out will be a large item of expense in a factory. Accordingly, many efforts have been made to decrease this waste. Furthermore, in order to produce the most comfortable shoe, it is necessary to have the least possible number of seams and to have those seams so placed as to cause least interference and discomfort. In order to give the neatest appearance, it is also essential that the necessary seams shall fall at points least likely to be seenthe inside of the arch and the back of the heel. A shoe pattern satisfying all of these requirements enables the production of an extremely comfortable shoe, of unusually neat appearance, and manufactured from the least possible leather; therefore, all requirements considered, the most economical shoe producible.
The pattern shown in Fig. 3 is the real essence of the present invention. As shown in this figure, the pattern comprises a single piece of leather of somewhat semi-elliptical outline. The straight edge of this piece is cut to the curved shape of the rear of the quarter the line running down the back of the ankle and heel. Then the length of the top of the upper is measured along one side of the blank from the top of the curve at the back of the ankle and heel, as indicated at 1. From this point, a cut 2 is made leading inward in a compound curve to a point slightly beyond the center of the vamp, and corresponding to the natural curve of the foot from the central instep line and front of the ankle. At the center of the vamp a short branch out 3 is made. The pointed piece 4 between the inner end of the cut 2 and the cut 3 forms a means of attaching the tongue 15, shown in Fig. 6. The dotted lines 5 and 6 indicate the relative position of one of the eye-let strips and the blank, in the completed shoe. The dotted line 7 indicates the relative position of the other eyelet strip and the blank, in the completed shoe. The dotted line 8 indicates the relative position of the cap 5, of Fig. 5, and the pattern, in the completed shoe.
To form a complete upper, a second quarter 9 is required. This quarter is cut from an ordinary quarter pattern and sewed to the first quarter along the rear or heel line, in the usual way.
On referring to Fig. 3, it will be seen clearly' that a complete quarter 10 and a complete vamp 11 are formed from the single pattern by merely cutting the lines 2 and 3. Cutting along these lines gives a quarter and vamp of the Blucher style. There is absolutely no waste in making the cuts 2 and 3. According to prior patterns, an angular piece is necessarily omitted, resulting, of course,in a great deal of waste leather.
On comparing Figs. 1, 2 and 3. it will be seen that the vamp 11 of the pattern in Fig. 3 covers completely the entire foot and ankle except the inner quarter, which is covered by the quarter 9 of Fig. 2. The instep arch 12 is covered by the angular part lying between the outer edge of the pattern and the cuts 2 and 3. According to this construction, there is no overlapping at or near the toe. The only overlapping seams are at 16, and along the center of the back of the heel. The seam at 16 is on the inside of the arch of the instepthe least conspicuous place in the shoe, and the least liable to cause irritation'or inconvenience. The seam at the back of the heel is covered, in the usual manner, by a strip 17 of thin flexible leather.
The eyelet strips 13, cap 14 and tongue 15 may all be sewed to the shoe upper after it has been completed, in the usual way.
Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim as new'and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is
1. A shoe pattern comprising a single piece of leather provided with a simple out extending from one edge inwardly beyond the longitudinal center of the piece and dividing the piece into a complete quarter and a complete vamp, and also provided with a sep arate and distinct branch out leading from said simple cut and forming therebetween a tongue attaching piece.
2. A shoe pattern comprising a single piece of leather provided with a cut extending inwardly from the outer edge of the piece to a point beyond the longitudinal center thereof and having the curvature of the central instep line and forward part of the ankle, said out dividing said piece into a complete quarter and a complete vamp; said piece being also provided with a branch out leading from the first-named cut and forming therebetween a tongue attaching piece.
In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand in the presence of two witnesses.
JOSEPH BEAU CHAMP. Witnesses T. MYNARD, E. J.. GAUVIN.
Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C.