WO1997047215A1

WO1997047215A1 - Faceting of gemstones

Info

Publication number: WO1997047215A1
Application number: PCT/US1997/010281
Authority: WO
Inventors: Erling Wilhelm Ii Hansen
Original assignee: Erling Wilhelm Ii Hansen
Priority date: 1996-06-11
Filing date: 1997-06-11
Publication date: 1997-12-18

Abstract

A gem (10) has a generally circular central facet (32) as seen in a plan view of the gem (10). Sixteen facets (34) radiating, or appearing to radiate, from the central facet (32) are arranged side-by-side circumferentially of the gem (10) like spokes. The radiating facets (34) converge towards the central facet (32). A grouop of three or more outline facets (36, 38) intersects a radially outer portion of each radiating facet (34). At least part of each outline facet (36, 38) appears as if it radiates from the central facet (32). The outline facets (36, 38) of a group are arranged side-by-side circumferentially of the gem (10), and neighboring outline facets (36, 38) of a group contact one another. The outline facets (36, 38) of each group intersect the respective radiating facet (34) at a plurality of different radial positions. The arrangement is such that the radiating facets (34) together define the outline of a chrysanthemum.

Description

FACETING OF GEMSTONES

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Field of the Invention

The invention relates to the forming of ornaments.

Description of the Prior Art

In order to increase the beauty and brilliance of a gemstone, the gemstone is faceted. This involves cutting the gemstone at different angles relative to a predetermined plane to produce a series of flat surfaces or facets on the gemstone.

Over the years, many different cuts or designs have been developed. In some of these cuts, the facets are arranged to approximate a curve. A few examples of such cuts can be found on pages 5, 9, 16, 32, 50, 51, 75, 83, 100, 101, 125, 141 and 142 of "Diagrams For Faceting", Volume II, by Glenn & Martha Vargas.

Despite the large number of cuts in existence, no entirely satisfactory method has been devised to create a design with facets which, for instance, resemble the petals of a flower. Thus, there is currently no arrangement of facets which can approximate a curve like that at the outer end of a flower petal and, at the same time, sharply delineate the curve.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

It is an object of the invention to provide an ornament which includes a relatively sharply delineated section of curved appearance. Another object of the invention is to provide an ornament which includes a section resembling a flower petal.

An additional object of the invention is to provide a method which makes it possible to produce a relatively sharply delineated section of curved appearance in an ornament.

A further object of the invention is to provide a method which allows an ornament to be formed with a section resembling a flower petal.

The preceding objects, as well as others which will become apparent as the description proceeds, are achieved by the invention.

One aspect of the invention resides in an ornament. The ornament, which can be a gem, includes a body comprising at least one first facet and three or more second facets. At least a part of each first and second facet radiates or appears to radiate from a predetermined point as seen in a plan view of the body. The second facets abut the first facet at a plurality of radial positions as seen in the plan view, and each of the second facets contacts another of the second facets.

A border is formed for the first facet along the locations at which the second facets abut the first facet. This border bends and assumes a curved appearance because it is defined by at least three contiguous second facets which abut the first facet at more than one radial position. Since all of the facets radiate, or appear to radiate, from a common point, the border also has good definition.

Another aspect of the invention resides in a method of forming an ornament. The method comprises the steps of removing material from a body along at least one first path segment, and removing material from the body along at least three second path segments. At least a part of each first and second path segment radiates, or appears to radiate, from a predetermined point as seen in a plan view of the body. Furthermore, each of the second path segments contacts another of the second path segments. The removing steps include establishing intersections between the first path segment and the second path segments at two or more radially different locations of the first path segment as seen in the plan view of the body.

Additional features and advantages of the invention will be forthcoming from the following detailed description of preferred embodiments when read in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Figures la-lc are, respectively, a side view of a gem in accordance with the invention, a plan view of the pavilion of the gem, and a plan view of the crown of the gem.

Figures 2a and 2b are, respectively, a side view and a plan view of a gemstone, which is to be converted into the gem of Figures la-lc, after undergoing one operation in a faceting method according to the invention.

Figures 3a and 3b are, respectively, a side view of the gemstone and a plan view of the pavilion of the gemstone after another operation.

Figures 4a and 4b are, respectively, a side view of the gemstone and a plan view of the pavilion after an additional operation. Figures 5a and 5b are, respectively, a side view of the gemstone and a plan view of the pavilion after a further operation.

Figures 6a and 6b are, respectively, a side view of the gemstone and a plan view of the pavilion after one more operation.

Figures 7a and 7b are, respectively, a side view of the gemstone and a plan view of the pavilion after yet another operation.

Figures 8a and 8b are, respectively, a side view of the gemstone and a plan view of the pavilion after an additional operation.

Figures 9a and 9b are, respectively, a side view of the gemstone and a plan view of the crown after still a further operation.

Figures 10a and 10b are, respectively, a side view of another embodiment of a gem in accordance with the invention, and a plan view of the pavilion of the gem.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

Referring to Figures la-lc, the numeral 10 generally identifies a gem or ornament in accordance with the invention. The gem 10 has a crown or upper portion 12, a pavilion or lower portion 14 and a girdle or intermediate portion 16 between the crown 12 and the pavilion 14. The crown 12 and the pavilion 14 face in opposite directions. The gem 10 has a central longitudinal axis A which constitutes a symmetry axis of the gem 10. The following description will be based on indexes and angles. The indexes, which are simply numbers, are derived from the equipment used in making the gem 10. Thus, in order to cut or facet a gemstone which is to be converted into the gem 10, the gemstone is placed in a dop or holder. The dop is rotated on a vertical axis, which coincides with the symmetry axis A of the gem 10, by an indexing gear. In the present case, it is assumed that the indexing gear has 96 teeth which are assigned the indexes or numbers 1 to 96, respectively. When this gear indexes from one tooth to the next, the gear and the gemstone rotate through an angle of 3.75 degrees. Tooth 1 or index 1 represents an angle of rotation of 3.75 degrees; tooth 2 or index 2 an angle of rotation of 2 x 3.75 degrees = 7.50; tooth 3 or index 3 an angle of rotation of 3 x 3.75 degrees = 11.25 degrees; and so on.

The gemstone is cut at various angles which are measured from a plane normal to the axis of rotation of the gemstone. Since the gemstone is rotated about a vertical axis, the plane is horizontal.

The girdle 16 is provided with sixteen facets or flat surfaces 18 which are cut at 90 degrees on indexes of 96, 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78, 84 and 90. The girdle facets 18 are in the form of rectangles having identical dimensions and are uniformly distributed circumferentially of the gem 10. The girdle facets 18 have horizontal upper edges 20 which adjoin the crown 12 and horizontal lower edges 22 which adjoin the pavilion 14. Each of the girdle facets 18 is circumferentially bounded by two other girdle facets 18, and neighboring ones of the girdle facets 18 share a common vertical edge 24. The girdle facets 18 are situated at the outer periphery of the gem 10, and the common edges 24 are located at respective points of a circle of diameter D which may be considered to be the diameter of the approximately circular gem 10.

The girdle facets 18, which are polished, serve to hold the gem 10 in a setting.

The pavilion 14 is provided with sixteen facets 26 which are cut on the same indexes as the girdle facets 18, namely, on indexes of 96, 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78, 84 and 90. As seen in the plan view of Figure lb, the facets 26 extend radially of the gem 10 and are arranged as if they radiate from a center point C on the symmetry axis of the gem 10. The radial petal facets 26 are identical and are uniformly distributed circumferentially of the gem 10. The petal facets 26 resemble the petals of a flower and together define the outline of a chrysanthemum. The petal facets 26 are unpolished.

The petal facets 26 are all cut at the same angle, and this angle preferably lies between 20 and 60 degrees. It is advantageous for the cutting angle to be in the range of 35 to 45 degrees, and a cutting angle of 40 degrees has been found to give particularly good results.

Neighboring ones of the petal facets 26 are separated from one another by straight, narrow facets 28 which are cut just deep enough to separate the petal facets 26 from one another. Per the plan view of Figure lb, the straight facets 28 extend radially of the gem 10 and are arranged as if they radiate from the center point C. The straight facets 28 are identical.

The straight facets 28, which number sixteen, are uniformly distributed circumferentially of the gem 10 and are cut on indexes of 3, 9, 15, 21, 27, 33, 39, 45, 51, 57, 63, 69, 75, 81, 87 and 93. The straight facets 28 are all cut at the same angle, and this angle is 0.75 degree to 0.85 degree less than the cutting angle for the petal facets 26. Preferably, the cutting angle for the radial facets 28 is 0.80 degree less than the cutting angle for the petal facets 26. Cutting of the straight facets 28 is controlled so as to maintain the two radial edges of each straight facet 28 parallel to one another.

The straight facets 28 are polished and function to dramatize the outline of the chrysanthemum defined by the petal facets 26. If the straight facets 28 are omitted, the outline appears flatter and duller.

Each of the petal facets 26 converges in a radially inward direction, i.e., in a direction towards the symmetry axis A of the gem 10. In the plan view of Figure lb, the petal facets 26 all converge towards the center point C with the same angle of convergence. The petal facets 26 do not extend all the way to the center point C, and the radially inner edges or ends of the petal facets 26 are spaced from the center point C by a uniform distance. Similarly, the straight facets 28 terminate short of the center point C, and the radially inner edges or ends of the straight facets 28 are spaced from the center point C by the same distance as the radially inner edges of the petal facets 26. The radially inner edges of the petal facets 26 and/or of the straight facets 28 delimit a hub or approximately circular central area of the pavilion 14 as viewed in Figure lb.

The radially outer edges or ends of the petal facets 26 have an approximately convex shape, and the radially outer tips of these radially outer edges lie on a circle. The diameter of this circle advantageously is about 55 percent to about 60 percent of the gem diameter D.

Sixteen facets 30 extend radially inward from the radially inner ends of the petal facets 26 and straight facets 28. These hub facets 30 are cut on the same indexes as the girdle facets 18, that is, on indexes of 96, 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78, 84 and 90. As shown in the plan view of Figure lb, the hub facets 30 are arranged as if they radiate from the center point C. The hub facets 30 are identical and are uniformly distributed circumferentially of the gem 10. Neighboring ones of the hub facets 30 contact one another along a common radial boundary. The hub facets 30 are polished.

The hub facets 30 are all cut at the same angle, and this angle is smaller than the cutting angle for the petal facets 26. The cutting angle for the hub facets 30 is preferably at least 1 degree, and no more than 89 degrees, less than the cutting angle for the petal facets 26.

Advantageously, the cutting angle for the hub facets 30 is 10 degrees less than the cutting angle for the petal facets 26.

In the plan view of Figure lb, each of the hub facets 30 converges in a radially inward direction, and the hub facets 30 all converge towards the center point C with the same angle of convergence. The angle of convergence of the hub facets 30 is identical to that of the petal facets 26. The hub facets 30 do not extend all the way to the center point C, and the radially inner edges or ends of the hub facets 30 are spaced from the center point C by the same distance. The radially inner edges of the hub facets 30 delimit an approximately circular central area of the pavilion 14 and define an outline which approximates that of a circle. The circle defined by the radially inner edges of the hub facets 30 has a diameter which preferably equals about 9.5 percent of the diameter of the circle defined by the radially outer tips of the petal facets 26.

The radially outer edges or ends of the hub facets 30, which coincide with the radially inner edges of the petal facets 26 and straight facets 28, also define an outline which approximates that of a circle. The circle defined by the radially outer edges of the hub facets 30 and/or the radially inner edges of the petal facets 26 and/or the radially inner edges of the straight facets 28 has a diameter which advantageously equals about 11 percent of the diameter of the circle defined by the radially outer tips of the petal facets 26.

A pavilion center facet 32 covers the approximately circular central area of the pavilion 14 delimited by the radially inner edges of the hub facets 30. The pavilion center facet 32 is cut at an angle of 0 degrees on any index. The pavilion center facet 32, which is approximately circular in the plan view of Figure lb, has the same diameter as the circle defined by the radially inner edges of the hub facets 30. The pavilion center facet 32 is unpolished.

The pavilion 14 is provided with sixteen additional facets 34 cut on the same indexes as the girdle facets 18, namely, on indexes of 96, 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78, 84 and 90. The facets 34 are pavilion break facets and extend radially inward from the outer periphery of the pavilion 14. Per the plan view of Figure lb, the pavilion break facets 34 are arranged as if they radiate from the center point C. The pavilion break facets 34 are identical and are uniformly distributed circumferentially of the gem 10. Neighboring ones of the pavilion break facets 34 contact one another along a common radial boundary. Furthermore, the radially outer edge or end of each pavilion break facet 34 coincides with the lower edge 22 of one of the girdle facets 18. The pavilion break facets 34 are polished.

As illustrated in the plan view of Figure lb, each of the pavilion break facets 34 converges in a radially inward direction, and the pavilion break facets 34 all converge towards the center point C with the same angle of convergence. The angle of convergence of the pavilion break facets 34 is identical to that of the petal facets 26. The pavilion break facets 34 have approximately convex radially inner edges or ends, and the tips of the radially inner edges of the pavilion break facets 34 almost touch the tips of the radially outer edges of the petal facets 26. The tips of the radially inner edges of the pavilion break facets 34 lie on a circle having a diameter somewhat larger than the diameter of the circle defined by the tips of the radially outer edges of the petal facets 26.

Sixteen facets 36 and eighty facets 38 are located between the petal facets 26 and the pavilion break facets 34. The facets 36,38 function to outline, and impart an approximately convex shape to, the radially outer edges of the petal facets 26 and the radially inner edges of the pavilion break facets 34. The outline facets 36 are uniformly distributed circumferentially of the gem 10 and are cut on the same indexes as the straight facets 28, namely, on indexes of 3, 9, 15, 21, 27, 33, 39, 45, 51, 57, 63, 69, 75, 81, 87 and 93. Each of the outline facets 38, on the other hand, is cut on a respective one of the remaining eighty indexes. Neighboring ones of the outline facets 36,38 contact one another along a common radial boundary.

Each of the petal facets 26 confronts a respective one of the pavilion break facets 34, and a group of outline facets 36,38 extends radially between each petal facet 26 and the confronting pavilion break facet 34. These groups are identical and consist of two outline facets 36 which flank a subgroup of five outline facets 38. The subgroups are uniformly distributed circumferentially of the gem 10. The radially inner edges of the outline facets 36,38 of each group abut the radially outer edges of the respective petal facet 26 while the radially outer edges of the outline facets 36,38 of each group abut the radially inner edges of the respective pavilion break facet 34. Each of the outline facets 36 is a member of two groups since the outline facets 36 respectively contact two adjoining petal facets 26 and two adjoining pavilion break facets 34. The outline facets 36,38 of a group abut the respective petal facet 26, as well as the respective pavilion break facet 34, at several different radial positions. The lengths of the outline facets 36,38 within a group increases from the middle of the group to the sides. The outline facets 36,38 are polished.

The number of outline facets 36,38 in a group can be more or less than the seven illustrated here. The minimum number of outline facets 36,38 in a group is three although it is preferred for each group to contain at least five outline facets 36,38. Each group advantageously includes at least six outline facets 36,38, and particularly good results are achieved when each group comprises at least seven outline facets 36,38. As the number of outline facets 36,38 in a group increases, the radially outer edges of the petal facets 26 and the radially inner edges of the pavilion break facets 34 approximate a curve more and more closely.

The outline facets 36,38 are all cut at the same angle, and this angle is greater than the cutting angle for the petal facets 26. It is preferred that the cutting angle for the outline facets 36,38 be at least 1 degree, but no more than 89 degrees, greater than the cutting angle for the petal facets 26. Advantageously, the cutting angle for the outline facets 36,38 is between 2.75 degrees and 5 degrees greater than the cutting angle for the petal facets 26. Especially good results are achieved if the cutting angle for the outline facets 36,38 is 3.75 degrees greater than the cutting angle for the petal facets 26.

The pavilion break facets 34 are likewise all cut at the same angle. The cutting angle for the pavilion break facets 34 is preferably at least 1 degree, but no more than 89 degrees, greater than the cutting angle for the outline facets 36,38. The cutting angle for the pavilion break facets 34 is favorably 3 degrees to 5 degrees greater than the cutting angle for the outline facets 36,38, and it is particularly advantageous when the cutting angle for the pavilion break facets 34 is 3.75 degrees greater than the cutting angle for the outline facets 36,38.

Per Figure lb, each of the outline facets 38 converges in a radially inward direction, and the outline facets 38 all converge towards the center point C. Similarly, that part of each outline facet 36 which shares common radial boundaries with its neighboring outline facets 38 converges radially inward towards the center point C. The outline facets 36,38 have the same angle of convergence, and this angle is smaller than the angle of convergence of the petal facets 26.

The outline facets 38, and those parts of the outline facets 36 which have common radial boundaries with the neighboring outline facets 38, are arranged so that it appears as if the outline facets 38 and the adjacent parts of the outline facets 36 radiate from the center point C.

The crown 12 of the gem 10 is provided with sixteen facets 40 cut on the same indexes as the girdle facets 18, that is, on indexes Of 96, 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78, 84 and 90. The facets 40 are crown break facets and extend radially inward from the outer periphery of the crown 12. As shown in the plan view of Figure lc, the crown break facets 40 are arranged as if they radiate from the center point C. The crown break facets 40 are identical and are uniformly distributed circumferentially of the gem 10. Neighboring ones of the crown break facets 40 contact one another along a common radial boundary. Furthermore, the radially outer edge of each crown break facet 40 coincides with the upper edge 20 of one of the girdle facets 18. The crown break facets 40 are polished.

The crown break facets 40 are all cut at the same angle, and this angle preferably lies in the range of 20 degrees to 60 degrees. The cutting angle for the crown break facets 40 advantageously is between 30 degrees and 40 degrees, and particularly good results are obtained when the cutting angle is 35 degrees.

Per the plan view of Figure lc, each of the crown break facets 40 converges in a radially inward direction, i.e., in a direction towards the symmetry axis A of the gem 10, and the crown break facets 40 all converge towards the center point C with the same angle of convergence. The angle of convergence of the crown break facets 40 can be identical to that of the petal facets 26. The crown break facets 40 do not extend all the way to the center point C, and the radially inner edges of the crown break facets 40 are spaced from the center point C by the same distance. The radially inner edges of the crown break facets 40 delimit an approximately circular central area of the crown 12 and define an outline which approximates that of a circle. The circle defined by the radially inner edges of the crown break facets 40 has a diameter which preferably equals about 65 percent to about 70 percent of the gem diameter D.

A table facet or crown center facet 42 covers the approximately circular central area of the crown 12 delimited by the radially inner edges of the crown break facets 40. The table facet 42 is cut at an angle of 0 degrees on any index. The table facet 42, which is approximately circular in the plan view of Figure lc, has the same diameter as the circle defined by the radially inner edges of the crown break facets 40. The table facet 42 is polished and, when the gem 10 is viewed through the table facet 42, the chrysanthemum outlined on the pavilion 14 is visible.

Each petal facet 26 is cut on the same index as a respective hub facet 30, a respective pavilion break facet 34 and a respective crown break facet 40. Facets 26,30,34,40 cut on a given index form a set of facets which fall within the same angular range circumferentially of the gem 10. The gem 10 comprises sixteen such sets of facets 26,30,34,40 each of which encompasses an angle of 22.5 degrees.

A method of forming the preferred embodiment of the gem 10 is as follows:

1. Figures 2a and 2b

The sixteen girdle facets 18 are produced by cutting the outer periphery of a body in the form of a gemstone 44 along sixteen paths on the respective indexes 96, 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78, 84 and 90. The cutting operations are performed at an angle of 90 degrees. Cutting of the girdle facets 18 gives the gemstone 44 the diameter D of the gem 10. The girdle facets 18 are polished.

2. Figures 3a and 3b

The sixteen petal facets 26 are formed by cutting through the girdle facets 18 at an angle of 40 degrees. The cutting operations are carried out along sixteen paths on the respective indexes 96, 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78, 84 and 90. Cutting of the petal facets 26 results in the creation of the pavilion 14. The pavilion 14, which constitutes the lower portion of the gem 10, is positioned at the top of the gemstone 44 and remains in this position during cutting of the petal facets 26, the straight facets 28, the hub facets 30, the pavilion center facet 32, the pavilion break facets 34 and the outline facets 36,38. The gemstone 44 has a center line which is parallel to the girdle facets 18 and corresponds to the symmetry axis A of the gem 10. As seen in the plan view of Figure 2b, the cutting operations are carried out in such a manner that each of the petal facets 26 extends radially from the outer periphery of the gemstone 44 to, and converges at, a point on the center line. This point is the center point C. The length of the cut, as measured radially from the outer periphery of the gemstone 44 to the point C, is the same for all of the petal facets 26. The petal facets 26 remain unpolished.

3. Figures 4a and 4b

The sixteen groups respectively consisting of two outline facets 36 and five outline facets 38 are created by cutting the pavilion 14 along sixteen path segments on the respective indexes 3, 9, 15, 21, 27, 33, 39, 45, 51, 57, 63, 69, 75, 81, 87 and 93, as well as along eighty additional path segments on the remaining eighty indexes. The outline facets 36,38 are considered to be cut along path segments rather than paths because the lengths of the cuts are less than the distance between the center line and outer periphery of the gemstone 44. The outline facets 36,38 are cut at an angle 3.75 degrees more than the petal facets 26. The cutting operations take place between the outer periphery of the pavilion 14 and specified locations radially inward of the periphery. Per the plan view of Figure 4b, the cutting operations are performed in such a manner that each of the outline facets 36,38 extends radially of the gemstone 44 and converges towards the center point C. The length of the cut varies within each group so that each of the petal facets 26 takes on the shape of a flower petal. The two outline facets 36 to the outside of a group are cut to the greatest length and the length of the cut decreases to the middle facet 38. The length of the cut for each middle facet 38 is such that the tips of the radially outer ends of the petal facets 26 lie on a circle whose diameter is 55 percent of the diameter D of the gemstone 44 and the gem 10. The outline facets 36,38 are polished.

4. Figures 5a and 5b

The sixteen pavilion break facets 34 are produced by cutting the pavilion 14 along sixteen path segments on the respective indexes 96, 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78, 84 and 90. The cutting angle for the pavilion break facets 34 exceeds that for the outline facets 36,38 by 3.75 degrees. The cutting operations are performed between the outer periphery of the pavilion 14 and predetermined locations radially inward of the periphery. The cutting operations are carried out in such a manner that each of the pavilion break facets 34 extends radially of the gemstone 44 and converges towards the center point C as seen in the plan view of Figure 5b. For each pavilion break facet 34, the length of the cut varies in circumferential direction of the gemstone 44. The length of the cut is greatest at the middle of a pavilion break facet 34 and decreases towards the sides so that the radially inner edges of the pavilion break facets 34 are approximately convex. The length of the cut at the middle of a pavilion break facet 34 is such that the tip of its radially inner edge almost touches the tip of the radially outer edge of the corresponding petal facet 26. The tips of the radially inner edges of the pavilion break facets 34 lie on a circle whose diameter is slightly larger than that of the circle defined by the tips of the radially outer edges of the petal facets 26. The pavilion break facets 34 are polished.

5. Figures 6a and 6b The sixteen hub facets 30 are formed by cutting the pavilion 14 along sixteen path segments on the respective indexes 96, 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78, 84 and 90. The hub facets 30 are cut at an angle 10 degrees less than the petal facets 26. The cutting operations take place between the center point C and selected locations radially outward of the center point C where the hub facets 30 intersect respective ones of the petal facets 26. Per the plan view of Figure 6b, the cutting operations are performed in such a manner that each of the hub facets 30 extends radially of the gemstone 44 and converges at the center point C. The length of the cut is the same for all of the hub facets 30 so that the intersections of the hub facets 30 and the petal facets 26 define an outline which approximates that of a circle. The length of the cut is such that the diameter of the circle equals 11 percent of the diameter of the circle defined by the tips of the radially outer edges of the petal facets 26. The hub facets 30 are polished.

6. Figures 7a and 7b

The pavilion center facet 32 is created by cutting through the hub facets 30 at an angle of 0 degrees on any index. The pavilion center facet 32 intersects each of the hub facets 30, and the intersections define an outline which approximates that of a circle as seen in the plan view of Figure 7b. The cut is taken in such a manner that the diameter of the circle equals 9.5 percent of the diameter of the circle defined by the tips of the radially outer edges of the petal facets 26. The pavilion center facet 32 remains unpolished. 7. Figures 3a and 8b

The sixteen straight facets 28 are produced by cutting the pavilion 14 along sixteen path segments on each of the sixteen indexes 3, 9, 15, 21, 27, 33, 39, 45, 51, 57, 63, 69, 75, 81, 87 and 93. The straight facets 28 are cut at an angle which is 0.80 degree less than the cutting angle for the petal facets 26. Each pair of neighboring petal facets 26 has a common radial boundary, and the cutting operations are carried out along these boundaries from one end of a respective boundary to the other. All of the boundaries, and hence all of the straight facets 28, are of the same length. The cuts are just deep enough to separate neighboring petal facets 26 from each other. The cutting angle is fine-tuned using elevation control in order to keep the radial edges of each straight facet 28 parallel to one another. The straight facets 28 are polished, and both cutting and polishing are performed with a polishing lap.

8. Figures 9a and 9b

The sixteen crown break facets 40 are formed by turning the gemstone 44 so that the pavilion 14 is at the bottom and cutting through the girdle facets 18 at an angle of 35 degrees. The cutting operations are performed along sixteen path segments on the respective indexes 96, 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78, 84 and 90. Cutting of the crown break facets 40 results in the creation of the crown 12. Per the plan view of Figure 9b, the cutting operations are carried out in such a manner that each of the crown break facets 40 extends radially from the outer periphery of the gemstone 44 to, and converges at, a point on the center line. This point is the center point C. The length of the cut, as measured radially from the outer periphery of the gemstone 44 to the center point C, is the same for all of the crown break facets 40. The crown break facets 40 are polished. 9. Figures la and lc

The table facet 42 is created by cutting through the crown break facets 40 at an angle of 0 degrees on any index. The table facet 42 intersects each of the crown break facets 40, and the intersections define an outline which approximates that of a circle as seen in the plan view of Figure lc. The cut is taken in such a manner that the diameter of the circle equals 65 percent of the gem or gemstone diameter D. The table facet 42 is polished to complete the gem 10.

The steps involved in making the gem 10 need not be carried out in the above order and several variations are possible. As one example, the outline facets 36,38 can be formed prior to the petal facets 26.

Figures 10a and 10b show another embodiment of a gem according to the invention. In Figures 10a and 10b, the gem is denoted by 10' instead of 10. Other than this, the same reference numerals as in the preceding Figures are used to identify like elements.

The gem 10' differs from the gem 10 in that the pavilion center facet 32 of the gem 10 is replaced by sixteen facets 46 which extend radially inward from the radially inner edges of the hub facets 30. These spoke facets 46 are cut on the same indexes as the girdle facets 18, that is, on indexes of 96, 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78, 84 and 90. The spoke facets 46 are identical and are uniformly distributed circumferentially of the gem 10'. Neighboring ones of the spoke facets 46 contact one another along a common radial boundary.

The spoke facets 46, which are unpolished, are all cut at the same angle, and this angle is smaller than the cutting angle for the hub facets 30. The cutting angle for the spoke facets 46 is preferably at least 1 degree, but no more than 89 degrees, less than the cutting angle for the hub facets 30. The cutting angle for the spoke facets 46 is advantageously 10 degrees less than the cutting angle for the hub facets 30.

Per the plan view of Figure 10b, each of the spoke facets 46 converges in a radially inward direction, and the spoke facets 46 converge to and meet at the center point C. The spoke facets 46 can thus be considered to radiate from the center point C. The spoke facets 46 all have the same angle of convergence, and this angle is identical to the angle of convergence of the petal facets 26. The radially outer edge of each spoke facet 46 coincides with the radially inner edge of a respective hub facet 30. The radially inner edges of the hub facets 30 and the radially outer edges of the spoke facets 46 define an outline which approximates that of a circle. This circle has a diameter which preferably equals about 9.5 percent of the diameter of the circle defined by the radially outer tips of the petal facets 26.

The number of girdle facets 18, hub facets 30, pavilion break facets 34, crown break facets 40 and spoke facets 46 can be different from sixteen. If the number of facets 18,30,34,40,46 is to be different from sixteen, some multiple of sixteen would be best, e.g. , thirty-two or sixty-four. However, the number of facets 18,30,34,40,46 is not critical and could, for instance, even be four or eight. Practically and aesthetically, however, the ideal number of facets 18,30,34,40,46 is sixteen because one each of the facets 18,30,34,40,46 can then be aligned with each of the petal facets 26. This will give the gem 10 or 10' the most pleasing appearance.

It is further possible to eliminate the hub facets 30, pavilion break facets 34 and spoke facets 46 altogether. In plan view, the petal facets 26 appear to radiate from the center point C on the symmetry axis A as do the outline facets 36,38. Moreover, a group of outline facets 36,38 is associated with each petal facet 26, and the radially inner edges of the outline facets 36,38 of a group abut the radially outer edge of the respective petal facet 26 at a plurality of radial positions. By virtue of this arrangement, the radially outer ends of the petal facets 26 take on a curved appearance and are relatively sharply delineated. A similar arrangement exists for the pavilion break facets 34 where the radially inner edges are given a curved appearance, and are relatively sharply delineated, by respective groups of outline facets 36,38. The positioning of sixteen petal facets 26 next to one another circumferentially of the gem 10 or 10' produces the outline of a chrysanthemum.

Various modifications, in addition to those mentioned above, can be made within the meaning and range of equivalence of the appended claims.

Claims

I CLAIM :

1. An ornament, said ornament including a body which comprises: at least one first facet; and at least three second facets, at least a part of each first and second facet radiating or appearing to radiate from a predetermined point as seen in a plan view of said body, said second facets abutting said first facet at a plurality of radial positions as seen in said view, and each of said second facets contacting another of said second facets.

2. The ornament of claim 1, wherein the number of said second facets is at least six.

3. The ornament of claim 1, wherein said body comprises: a plurality of first facets arranged side-by- side circumferentially of said body; and a plurality of groups respectively containing at least three second facets, at least a part of each first and second facet radiating or appearing to radiate from a predetermined point as seen in said view, the second facets of each group abutting a respective first facet at a plurality of radial positions as seen in said view, and each second facet of a group contacting another second facet of the group.

4. The ornament of claim 3, wherein said body has an outer periphery provided with third facets.

5. The ornament of claim 4, wherein said body comprises a first portion to one side of said third facets and a second portion to an opposite side of said third facets, said first portion forming a base for said first and second facets, and said body further comprising: a fourth facet on said second portion lying in a predetermined plane which extends transverse to said first, second and third facets.

6. The ornament of claim 5, wherein said fourth facet is inward of said outer periphery, said body further comprising: fifth facets on said second portion between said outer periphery and said fourth facet, at least a part of each fifth facet appearing to radiate from a common selected point as seen in a plan view of said second portion.

7. The ornament of claim 6, wherein said second facets are disposed between said first facets and said outer periphery and terminate short of said outer periphery, said body further comprising: sixth facets between said second facets and said outer periphery; and substantially straight seventh facets between neighboring ones of said first facets, at least a part of each sixth facet appearing to radiate from said predetermined point as seen in a plan view of said first portion of said body, at least a part of each seventh facet radiating or appearing to radiate from said predetermined point as seen in said plan view of said first portion, said first, third, fifth, sixth and seventh facets respectively numbering 16 and being substantially uniformly distributed circumferentially of said body, each of said first facets, together with a respective third facet, a respective fifth facet and a respective sixth facet constituting a set of facets, all facets of a set having substantially the same angular position circumferentially of said body, said first facets being unpolished, and said second, third, fourth, fifth, sixth and seventh facets being polished.

8. The ornament of claim 7, wherein said first facets extend radially inward of said second facets as seen in a plan view of said first portion of said body and terminate short of said predetermined point, said body further comprising: sixteen eighth facets disposed radially inward of said first facets, at least a part of each eighth facet radiating or appearing to radiate from said predetermined point as seen in said plan view of said first portion, said eighth facets being polished and being substantially uniformly distributed circumferentially of said body, and each of said eighth facets forming part of a respective set of facets.

9. The ornament of claim 8, wherein said outer periphery defines a first circle of first diameter as seen in said plan view of said first portion, said first facets having radially outer ends which define a second circle of second diameter as seen in said plan view of said first portion, said eighth facets having radially inner ends which define a third circle of third diameter as seen in said plan view of said first portion, and said eighth facets further having radially outer ends which define a fourth circle of fourth diameter as seen in said plan view of said first portion, said second diameter being about 55 percent to about 60 percent of said first diameter, said third diameter being approximately 9.5 percent of said second diameter, and said fourth diameter being approximately 11 percent of said second diameter.

10. The ornament of claim 3, wherein said first facets define a pattern resembling a chrysanthemum as seen in said view.

11. An ornament, said ornament including a body comprising a group of pattern facets which, as seen in a plan view of said body, define a pattern resembling a chrysanthemum.

12. The ornament of claim 11, wherein said body has an outer periphery and said pattern facets extend radially of said outer periphery as seen in said view, said pattern facets having radially outer ends which define a first circle of first diameter as seen in said view, and said outer periphery defining a second circle of second diameter as seen in said view, said first diameter equalling about 55 percent to about 60 percent of said second diameter.

13. The ornament of claim 11, wherein at least a part of each pattern facet appears to radiate from a predetermined point as seen in said view, said body further comprising second facets which are disposed radially inward of said pattern facets, and at least a part of each second facet radiating or appearing to radiate from said predetermined point as seen in said view.

14. The ornament of claim 13, wherein said pattern facets have radially outer ends which define a first circle of first diameter as seen in said view, said second facets having radially inner ends which define a second circle of 5 second diameter equalling about 9.5 percent of said first diameter, and said second facets further having radially outer ends which define a third circle of third diameter equalling about 11 percent of said first diameter.

10 15. The ornament of claim 11, wherein at least a part of each pattern facet appears to radiate from a predetermined point as seen in said view, said body further comprising a facet which is disposed radially inward of said pattern facets and is approximately circular as seen in said view,

15 said circular facet having a center which substantially coincides with said predetermined point.

16. The ornament of claim 11, wherein said body further comprises substantially straight second facets between

20 neighboring ones of said first facets.

17. The ornament of claim 11, wherein said body has an outer periphery and said pattern facets terminate short of said outer periphery, said body further comprising second

25 facets between said pattern facets and said outer periphery, and said second facets being spaced from said pattern facets.