WO2002003946A1

WO2002003946A1 - Composition comprising a modified beeswax and a volatile silicone, cosmetic use thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2002003946A1
Application number: PCT/FR2001/002205
Authority: WO
Inventors: Sabine Grimm
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2000-07-12
Filing date: 2001-07-09
Publication date: 2002-01-17
Also published as: FR2811559A1

Abstract

The invention concerns a composition, in particular cosmetic, characterised in that it comprises: i) at least a modified beeswax, (ii) at least a volatile silicone, and iii) at least another fatty substance. The invention also concerns cosmetic uses of said composition.

Description

COMPOSITION COMPRISING A MODIFIED BEES WAX AND A VOLATILE SILICONE, USE IN COSMETICS

The subject of the present invention is cosmetic compositions, possibly solid, comprising a modified beeswax, a volatile silicone, and at least one fatty substance chosen from oils, pasty fatty substances, waxes and their mixtures, which can in particular be used in cosmetics, in particular in the form of a foundation stick.

These compositions can also constitute skin care products, including the scalp, and / or make-up products for the skin, mucous membranes (lips or inner eyelids), semi-mucous membranes (lips), fibers. keratin (hair, eyelashes, nails) or body makeup products.

Makeup compositions containing an oily phase are commonly used in cosmetics because of their good adhesion to the epidemic, their feeling of comfort, their protective capacity and their ability to form a waterproof film.

The compositions having a creamy consistency can be sought in so far as they can be applied satisfactorily using the fingers from a packaging in the form of a jar or tube. They generally contain oils and waxes in order to obtain a stable consistency over time.

However, one of the drawbacks of this type of product is that, because they contain a large amount of fatty substances, they leave a greasy, sticky feeling on the skin and their spreading is difficult. In addition, it is advantageous to have a compact product, easy to transport, which does not drip and of extremely practical use.

The object of the present invention is to provide a composition, in particular in the form of a stick, which has improved cosmetic properties and good stability. In particular, a composition is sought which does not give a feeling of greasiness and stickiness on application, which gives a feeling of freshness which is nevertheless soft and comfortable on the skin. Such a composition should not dry out the skin either.

It has now been unexpectedly and surprisingly discovered that by the use of a modified beeswax associated with at least one volatile silicone and at least one fatty substance other than the volatile silicone, it was possible to obtain compositions , in particular solids, which spread easily on the skin without feeling greasy and sticky, or drying, which have excellent cosmetic properties, in particular very great softness as well as good stability.

The present invention therefore relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises i °) at least one modified beeswax, ii °) at least one volatile silicone and iii) at least one fatty substance, different volatile silicone and modified beeswax, chosen from oils, pasty fatty substances, waxes and their mixtures.

The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for treating the skin and / or scalp, in particular a makeup method, consisting in applying to the skin or the mucous membranes and / or to the scalp a composition as defined above. -above.

It has been found that the composition used according to the invention is particularly soft: it is also more melting and more creamy. It applies and spreads easily evenly, without leaving a greasy or sticky feeling. It also has a light texture and remains comfortable to wear throughout the day, and in particular it does not dry out the skin.

The composition according to the invention also has good sensory and cosmetic qualities, in particular good mattness and good coverage, uniformity and hold.

The composition according to the invention allows a uniform and homogeneous makeup. It provides a feeling of freshness on application and does not mark the pores of the face.

In addition, applied to the skin, it has the advantage of not migrating into the folds of the skin and / or facial wrinkles.

The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one modified beeswax. By modified beeswax is meant in the sense of the present invention a beeswax having undergone a chemical reaction, such as for example an esterification or an etherification. Among the modified beeswax usable according to the present invention, mention may be made of the modified beeswax dimethicone copolyol sold under the name "Siliconyl beeswax" by the company Koster Keunen, the modified beeswax polyethylene glycol-8 sold under the trade name "Apifil" by the company Gattefossé France, the modified beeswax polyglycerol-3 sold under the trade name "Cera Bellina" by the company Koster Keunen, and their mixtures.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, modified dimethicone copolyol beeswax is used.

The modified beeswax can be present in the compositions of the invention at a content ranging from approximately 0.5 to 15%, preferably from approximately 1.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. . The composition according to the invention also comprises a volatile silicone. By volatile oil is meant an oil capable of evaporating from the skin, at room temperature in less than an hour. Preferably, the volatile oil has a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 25 centistokes at 25 ° C. After evaporation of these oils, a deposit of particles is obtained, which does not stick to the skin or the mucous membranes. Preferably, oils are used whose flash point is high enough to allow the use of these oils in formulation.

As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, hexadecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, rheptamethyloctyltrisiloxane and / or their mixtures.

The volatile silicone is preferably present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 2 to 60% approximately, preferably from 10 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In addition to the modified beeswax and volatile silicone, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one other fatty substance chosen from oils, pasty fatty substances, waxes and their mixtures.

The oils can be chosen from oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic, carbon, hydrocarbon and / or silicone origin, alone or as a mixture insofar as they are compatible with the intended use.

The oils, excluding volatile silicone, can be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from approximately 0.1 to 70%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Mention may also be made of hydrocarbon oils such as paraffin or petroleum jelly oil, mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, grapes, sesame, corn, macaw, rapeseed, sunflower, cotton, apricot, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal sprouts; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate , 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin triisostearate or diglycerin; higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol or oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearic alcohol or octyl dodecanol; non-volatile silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), optionally phenylated such as phenyltrimethicones, or optionally substituted by aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amino groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oil comprises at least one ester, branched or not, generally comprising from 8 to 30, preferably 8 to 25, carbon atoms per molecule. Advantageously, such a non-volatile oil is chosen from isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, octyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethyl hexanoate 2-hexyl ethyl, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyl hexyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

Among the solid waxes at room temperature, which may be present in the composition according to the invention, in addition to the beeswax modified above, may include hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, Camauba, Candellila, Ouricoury, Japanese wax, cork fiber or sugar cane waxes, paraffin, lignite waxes, waxes microcrystallines, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, hydrogenated oils, fatty esters and concrete glycerides at 25 ° C. It is also possible to use silicone waxes, among which mention may be made of alkyl, alkoxy and / or polymethylsiloxane esters. The waxes can be in the form of stable dispersions of colloidal particles of wax as they can be prepared according to known methods, such as those of "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", LM Prince Ed., Académie Press (1977), pages 21-32. As liquid wax at room temperature, mention may be made of Jojoba oil.

The waxes, excluding modified beeswax, can be present in an amount of 1 to 20% by weight approximately, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pasty fatty compounds can be defined using at least one of the following physicochemical properties:

- a viscosity of 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured at 40 ° C with a CONTRAVES TV rotary viscometer equipped with an MS-r3 mobile or MS-r4 at the frequency of 240 rpm, - a melting point of 25-70 ° C, preferably 25-55 ° C.

The pasty fatty substances can represent from 0.1 to 60% approximately, preferably from 2 to 40% approximately, by weight, relative to the total weight of the final composition.

The composition according to the invention can also contain at least one liposoluble dye. This fat-soluble dye is for example chosen from Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC

Yellow, 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow, and lerus mixtures. It can represent from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 6%.

The compositions according to the invention can also comprise a particulate phase comprising at least one pulverulent compound chosen from pigments and / or nacres and / or fillers usually used in cosmetic compositions, and their mixtures.

The pulverulent compounds are preferably present in a content ranging from 5 to 40% by weight approximately, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fillers, which can be present in the composition in an amount of 5-40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, can be mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, Teflon (polytetrafluoroethylene), starch, natural mother-of-pearl, boron nitride, microspheres such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), micro sponges such as polytrap (Dow Corning). It is also possible to use spherical fillers such as polyethylene powders, nylon powders, microbeads of silicone resin (Toshiba's Tospearls), silica microspheres.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fillers are present in a content of approximately 0.1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pigments can be present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. They can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium dioxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, nacres such as mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride as well as colored titanium mica. Among the organic pigments, may include carbon black, and barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum lakes. The pigments can also have a hydrophobic surface or can be treated so as to make their surface hydrophobic; this treatment can be carried out according to methods known to those skilled in the art; the pigments can in particular be coated with silicone compounds such as PDMS and / or with polymers, in particular polyethylenes and / or amino acids.

Among the pigments coated, there may be mentioned in particular the pigments sold under the name "SA" by the company Miyoshi (pigments coated PDMS), the pigments coated with Stearoyl glutamate Aluminum sold by the Miyoshi sodiety under the name "NAI".

The pigments thus coated can be incorporated into the composition according to the invention in a proportion of between 0.1 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the pigments are present at a content ranging from 2 to 20% by weight approximately, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The nacres can be present in the composition in an amount of 0-30% by weight, preferably 10 to 20% by weight. Among the possible nacres, mention may be made of natural mother-of-pearl, mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride as well as colored titanium mica.

The composition according to the invention can also comprise an aqueous phase. This aqueous phase can include water, floral water such as blueberry water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water. The aqueous phase can also include solvents other than water, for example primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as alkyl (C-ι-C4) mono, di- or tripropylene glycol, mono, di- or triethylene glycol ether, and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous phase can also comprise water-soluble dyes chosen from the usual dyes of the field under consideration such as the disodium salt of culvert, the disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium salt of amaranth, the disodium salt of tartrazine, monosodium salt of rhodamine, disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll.

Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in the compositions of the invention at a content ranging from 0 to 70% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention can also comprise a cosmetically, pharmaceutically or hygienically acceptable medium. It can then include any additive usually used in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical or hygienic field, such as surfactants, antioxidants, dyes, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic active agents, moisturizers, vitamins, sphingolipids, liposoluble polymers, in particular hydrocarbon-based polymers, such as polybutene, polyalkylenes, polyacrylates and silicone polymers compatible with fatty substances.

These additives can be present in the composition at a rate of 0-15% by weight.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition considered. The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic product and in particular in the form of a care product for the body and / or the face and / or the scalp or even a product for make-up, in particular a foundation, a concealer, a blusher or an eyeshadow, an eyeliner, a mascara or a lipstick, a make-up product for the body.

They can be in the form of an anhydrous composition, a W / O or O / W or multiple emulsion, in the form of a dispersion or a solution.

They can be in the form of a solid, compacted, poured product or a stick. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions are preferably in the form of a solid composition and more preferably in the form of a stick.

By solid composition is meant within the meaning of the present invention, a composition whose penetrometry, measured with Stevens Analyzer texture (mobile TA24, diameter 4 mm, speed 0.5 mm / s, depth 2 mm, ambient temperature, ie 25 ° C. ) is more than about 50 g. Preferably this penetrometer ranges from 80 g to about 400 g.

The invention will be better illustrated with the aid of the following examples. In all these examples, the amounts are given in percentages by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLE 1: comparison

The Applicant has produced composition A according to the following invention

Composition A: - 2% myristyl myristate

- 2% ethylhexyl palmitate 1%

- vaseline oil 2%

- apricot almond oil 2%

- pigments 8% 0

- 7% UV filter

- saponite 0.5%

- 0.2% acrylate copolymer

- acrylamide / isoparaffin / laureth-7 copolymer 0.5%

- beeswax modified by esterification with a dimethicone copolyol sold under the name

"Siliconyl Beeswax" by Koster Keunen 4.8%

- cyclohexadimethylsiloxane

(or hexadecamethylcyclohexasiloxane) 10%

- 5% glycerin

- 3% stearic acid

- triethanolamine 1% - preservatives qs

- water qs 100%

Composition A was produced in the following manner: part of the water, glycerin and water-soluble preservatives were heated to 100 ° C. in a beaker 1. The pigments were then ground in the rest of the water and the saponite gel in a three-cylinder, then this ground material was added to beaker 1. It was dispersed on a Moritz turbine for 5 min, then it was heated in a Bain Marie at 75 ° C. Triethanolamine was added. In a beaker 2, the stearic acid, the oils and the esters (except the volatile silicone), the modified beeswax, the UV filter, the liposoluble preservatives were melted in a Marie bath at around 80 ° C. In a capsule, the acrylate copolymers were pasted in volatile silicone. Beaker 2 was added to beaker 1 at 75 ° C with high speed turbine stirring. We emulsified for 10 min. The pasted charge was then added. Stirred until perfect dispersion, then allowed to cool at low speed to 40 ° C. The acrylic copolymer was then introduced and the bubbles were debubbled up to 25 ° C.

The Applicant has also produced a comparative composition B, of the same composition as composition A above but in which the beeswax modified by esterification with a dimethicone copolyol has been replaced by an unmodified beeswax, namely the pure white beeswax sold under the trade name "white beeswax GR B889" by the company Koster Keunen.

These two compositions were tested in make-up as follows: 4 models applied the control composition B (“classic” beeswax) against composition A with modified beeswax, in the semi-face. As a result, composition A according to the invention spreads better (better sliding), it has a softer, more creamy and finer texture. It provides fresher make-up than composition B. Furthermore, composition A ultimately gives a make-up which marks the pores of the face less than composition B.

EXAMPLE 2

The Applicant has produced stick C according to the following invention:

Composition C:

- isononyl isononanoate 12.2%

- shea butter 1%

- pigments 15%

- polyethylene wax 1.6%

- 0.5% acrylate copolymer

- 8% polytetrafluoroethylene wax

“Siliconyl Beeswax” by Koster Keunen 8%

- cyclohexadimethylsiloxane

(or hexadecamethylcyclohexasiloxane) 50.7% - methylsilsesquioxane 2%

- active 1%

This stick has a hardness, measured according to the method described in the present application, of: 85 g.

This stick was prepared as follows: the oils (except the volatile silicone) and the waxes were weighed in a double-walled beaker. It was heated to 90-95 ° C and allowed to melt this phase (phase A). When phase A is melted, put under Rayneri microdisperser. Then add the pigments. Then added the acrylate copolymer pasted in the silicone, then the fillers (polytetrafluoroethylene wax and methylsilsesquioxane). We mill on the three-cylinder. It is reheated to 80 ° C. in a double-walled beaker under a microdisperse. Poured at 80 ° C into preheated cups on the water bath.

The Applicant has also produced the following comparative stick D:

Composition D:

- isononyl isononanoate 12.2%

- shea butter 1%

- pigments 15%

- polyethylene wax 1.6%

- 0.5% acrylate copolymer - 8% polytetrafluoroethylene wax

- 8% hydrogenated jojoba oil

- cyclohexadimethylsiloxane

(or hexadecamethylcyclohexasiloxane) 50.7%

- methylsilsesquioxane 2%

- active 1%

In composition D, the modified beeswax has been replaced by a soft wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil. Stick D was prepared in the same way as stick C.

The two sticks C and D were tested in make-up in the same way as in Example 1. It follows that the stick according to C the invention spreads better, has better slipperiness. It has a softer, smoother and finer texture. It provides fresher makeup than stick D. In addition, stick C gives a makeup that marks the pores of the face less than stick D.

Claims

1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, characterized in that it comprises i °) at least one modified beeswax, ii °) at least one volatile silicone and iii) at least one fatty substance, different from volatile silicone and modified beeswax, chosen from oils, pasty fatty substances, waxes and their mixtures.

2. Composition according to claim 1 such that the modified beeswax is chosen from dimethicone copolyol modified beeswax, polyethylene glycol-8 modified beeswax, modified polyglycerol-3 beeswax, and mixtures thereof. .

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2 such that the modified beeswax is dimethicone copolyol modified beeswax.

4. Composition according to the preceding claim such that the modified beeswax is present at a content ranging from 0.5 to 15% approximately, preferably from 1.5 to 10% approximately by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to the preceding claim such that the volatile silicone is chosen from octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, ethylcyclopentasiloxane decar, hexadecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane and / or their mixtures.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that the volatile silicone is present in a content ranging from 2 to 60% approximately, preferably from 10 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that the fatty substance is at least one oil, excluding volatile silicone, present at a content ranging from 0.1 to 70% approximately, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

8. Composition according to the preceding claim, such that the fatty substance comprises at least one ester, branched or not, generally comprising from 8 to 30, preferably 8 to 25, carbon atoms per molecule.

9. Composition according to the preceding claim such that said ester is chosen from isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, octyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2- ethyl 2-hexyl ethyl hexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyl hexyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that the fatty substance is at least one wax, excluding modified beeswax, present at a content ranging from 0.1 to 70%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, such that the fatty substance is at least one pasty fatty substance, present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 60%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claim as it further comprises a particulate phase comprising pulverulent compounds chosen from pigments and / or nacres and / or fillers and their mixtures.

13. Composition according to the preceding claim such that the pulverulent compounds are present in a content ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims as it further comprises an aqueous phase.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims as it is in the form of a solid composition, preferably in the form of a stick.

16. A method of non-therapeutic treatment of the skin and / or scalp, in particular a makeup method, consisting in applying to the skin or the mucous membranes and / or to the scalp a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15.