WO2012046073A1

WO2012046073A1 - Fabric

Info

Publication number: WO2012046073A1
Application number: PCT/GB2011/051923
Authority: WO
Inventors: Julia Elaine Macintyre-Cathles
Original assignee: Julia Elaine Macintyre-Cathles
Priority date: 2010-10-07
Filing date: 2011-10-06
Publication date: 2012-04-12
Also published as: GB201016911D0; EP2625328A1

Abstract

A laminated fabric comprising a woollen fleece, a base layer and an adhesive, and a method of production thereof.

Description

FABRIC

The present invention relates to a fabric. The invention has particular, but not exclusive application as a substitute for sheepskin fabrics. The fabric has possible application in the manufacture of boots as well as in upholstery and clothing.

Sheepskin fabrics are often made from the hides of Merino sheep, the majority of which are located in Australia. These are not a by-product of the meat industry, but are farmed specifically for the manufacture of sheepskin products, such as boots. As the skin of the sheep have natural wrinkles they are prone to 'fly strike' in which flies lay their eggs in the skin. To conquer this affliction, which can harm the quality of the fleece, it is common practice among Merino sheep farmers to conduct a practice known as 'mulesing'. This widely criticised practice sees large chunks of flesh cut out of the sheep's rump and on other areas of their bodies, often without any sedation or pain aids. These sheep are then often shipped to tanneries in Asia in formidable conditions with little or no room, light, water or food. Many of these sheep do not make the journey and are dead on arrival. Once at the slaughterhouse, these sheep are often not cared for in humane ways until the time of their deaths and may even be skinned alive without any pain aids. The sheepskins are forwarded to tanneries for further processing. There have been many studies conducted around the impact of tanneries and the leather manufacturing industry which suggest that tanneries perform one of the most hazardous manufacturing procedures impacting our environment today.

Some of the raw materials, such as soluble proteins and fat have to be removed during processing to prepare the collagen fibre structure of the hide for tanning. Some parts of the leather also have to be trimmed or shaven during the production process. Residual chemicals from the manufacturing process, such as chromium employed for the tanning process, can contribute to the waste. Micro-pollutants, such as insecticides from raw stock, are also of growing concern.

Chemical analysis suggests that tannery wastes are characterised by strong colour, high biochemical oxygen demand, high pH and high dissolved salts. Disposal of these wastes into water courses or onto land, with or without prior sedimentation, creates a great problem in the environment.

In developing countries this waste water (including organic particular and toxic chemicals) is often discharged into open drains and so ultimately finds its way onto land surfaces and into natural waters. As a result, water, air, soil, shelter and food are continually being polluted. It has been known for some time to make boots from sheepskin. In recent years these have become highly popular and fashionable. There are a number of brands of boots available providing an alternative to sheepskin boots. These tend to use a cheap, synthetic fleece for the upper which does not have the moisture retention qualities of wool and so exhibits an unpleasant odour after a short time of use. Being a synthetic material, this alternative does not provide the same levels of insulation as wool, and the boots are generally of poor quality and do not last very long. Furthermore, since the wool remains on sheepskin products, unlike leather from cows where any hairs are removed, it is difficult to ensure consistent performance and quality of the fabric, and it is subject to greater natural variability. The present invention has been made from a consideration of this.

According to a first aspect of the present invention there is provided a fabric comprising a laminate of a woollen fleece and a base layer, the base layer being secured to the woollen fleece by an adhesive.

According to a second aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of making a fabric comprising providing a stack comprising layers of woollen fleece, an adhesive and a base fabric and applying heat so as to provide a laminate of wool secured to the base fabric. The fabric of the invention aims to provide the benefits of a natural wool fleece without cruelty to animals. The fabrics of the invention have exceptional insulation and moisture retention qualities, while being sustainable, durable and long lasting. The process of the invention is also environmentally friendly in that tanneries are not used. The invention also allows for a greater production of fabric than can be made using real sheepskin. Fabric made in accordance with the present invention may also be made in many different shapes and sizes.

The woollen fleece used in the fabric of the invention generally comprises a batt of woollen fibres which has been processed, so as to form a card. This woollen fibrous card is secured to a backing layer by any conventional method such as knitting, sewing, weaving and/or needling. The backing layer may comprise any suitable material, such as natural or synthetic fabric or fibres. A polyester or cotton (such as canvas or calico) backing layer is preferred. The thickness of the backing layer is preferably in the range from 0.02mm to 0.3mm, possibly 0.03mm to 0.07mm. Fibres from the woollen fleece tend to extend through the backing layer. These are then secured in place by an application of a polymeric material, such as an acrylic latex. The woollen fibres may be secured to the backing layer at densities of between 14 and 25 courses per inch, preferably between 16 to 22 courses per inch, and most preferably between 8 and 22 courses per inch. The thickness of the woollen pile of the invention is typically over 1.5cm and more typically over 1.7 cm and possibly 1.9 cm. A pile thickness in the range from 2.0cm to 3.5cm may be used. In one embodiment the pile thickness is substantially 2.5cm. However, the thickness of the woollen pile may be up to 5.0cm. The density of the pile is ideally at least 450 grams per linear metre and is preferably in the range from 550 to 700 grams per linear metre when the width of the fabric is 1.65m. The density of the pile may be up to 800 grams per linear metre when the width of the fabric is 1.65m. The density of the pile may be up to 1000 grams per linear metre when the width of the fabric is 1.65m. The density of the pile may be up to 1500 grams per linear metre when the width of the fabric is 1.65m.

The lamination process involves securing the backing layer of the woollen fleece to the base layer.

The thickness of the base layer is generally in excess of 1 mm. The thickness of the base layer may be in the range from 1.5mm to 2.5mm, and in one embodiment of the invention is substantially 2mm.

The base layer may comprise any suitable material, such as natural or synthetic fabric or fibres. A base layer such as cotton, hessian, canvas or calico is preferred. The base layer may comprise a microfiber material, such as a faux suede. The microfibers may comprise polyester and/or polyamide. The lamination process is potentially a tricky operation. This is exacerbated by the fact that substantial compression of the woollen fleece, in particular, is undesirable as such compression may cause damage to the fleece.

Prior to lamination an adhesive is provided between the backing layer of the woollen fleece and the base layer. The adhesive may be a dry adhesive. The adhesive used tends to be a film/ web/ membrane or a powder. The adhesive membrane preferably comprises a hot melt adhesive. Typical adhesives include any polymeric adhesive or combination thereof. Typically polyester may be used.

Flame lamination may possibly be used. Particularly as little or no compression is to be applied and in view of the high thickness of the fleece and base layer, substantial heating is required to achieve satisfactory heating of the adhesive membrane to achieve a good bond of the woollen fleece to the base layer. Nevertheless it is important that neither the woollen fleece nor the base layer is damaged in the process, for example by compression or burning. The structural integrity of these materials and their aesthetic appearance are important to the desirability of the final product. A heating temperature in the range from 120°C to 200°C may be used during lamination, typically the temperature used is 120°C to 140°C and more preferably the temperature used is substantially 130°C. The fabric may be heated from one or both sides. Preferably, the fabric is heated from only one side. More preferably, the fabric is heated on the side away from the woollen fleece. A lamination speed typically of between 2 and 15 metres per minute, more typically between 2.5 and 5 metres per minute, and most typically substantially 3 metres per minute may be used during lamination.

During lamination, the fleece layer and the base layer are brought into close registration with an adhesive layer between the two other layers. The layers are passed through a laminating machine wherein heat is applied to the base layer which is sufficient to melt the adhesive and allow the fleece layer and the base layer to adhere. The layers pass through an opening which is slightly narrower than the combined width of the layers in order to ensure that the layers adhere.

The base fabric of the invention can be provided in a range of textures by appropriate selection of the base fabric and in a range of colours as the base fabric may be dyed. The fabric of the invention may be provided on a roll and may be used in a multitude of applications, including retail (footwear, clothing, apparel, homewares, packaging and so forth), aviation (plane socks, seat covers, etc.), automotive (seat covers, etc.) and medicinal. In this latter application woollen fleece is sometimes rubbed on the breast, and in particular the nipple, of pregnant women, as the woollen fleece has high lanolin and anti-bacterial qualities. A backing could be placed on the fabric of the invention in this medicinal application in order to fit a hand.

In one embodiment of the invention the fabric is made into a sheepskin boot. Here the woollen pile forms the inside lining of the boot and the exposed surface of the base layer forms the exterior of the upper of the boot. The sole of the boots may comprise any suitable material, such as latex. The preferred material for the sole of the boots is latex, vortex rubber (e.g. recycled from gloves). This substance is extremely durable, flexible, and light in colour which makes the product easy to dye into various natural colours reminiscent of sand, clay, limestone, and so forth.

Traditional sheepskin boots are not waterproof and stain easily, despite the growing trend of such boots being used for street wear. One embodiment of the invention solves the problems of waterproofing by including a waterproof layer in the laminate, conventionally in between the woollen fleece and base layer. The adhesive membrane may be located between the waterproof layer and fleece backing layer during manufacture. The problem of staining can be solved by the use of washable fabrics for the base layer.

Traditional sheepskin boots do not provide good foot support. In one embodiment the invention solves these problems by providing additional feet supports into the construction of footwear, such as toe and/or heel puffs. This can be achieved as the fabrics of the invention have a layered structure.

Claims

1. A fabric comprising a laminate of a woollen fleece and a base layer, the base layer being secured to the woollen fleece by an adhesive.

2. A fabric according to claim 1 , wherein the woollen fleece is secured to a backing layer.

3. A fabric according to claim 2, wherein the woollen fleece is secured to the backing layer by knitting, sewing, weaving and/or needling.

4. A fabric according to claim 3, wherein the backing layer comprises natural or synthetic fabrics or fibres.

5. A fabric according to claim 4, wherein the backing layer comprises polyester or cotton.

6. A fabric according to any of claims 2 to 5, wherein the thickness of the backing layer is between 0.02mm and 0.3 mm, and preferably between 0.03mm and 0.07 mm.

7. A fabric according to any preceding claim, wherein the woollen fleece is secured in place by an application of a polymeric material.

8. A fabric according to claim 7, wherein the polymeric material is acrylic latex.

9. A fabric according to any of claims 2 to 9, wherein the woollen fleece is secured to the backing layer at densities of between 14 and 25 courses per inch, preferably between 16 to 22 courses per inch, and most preferably between 18 and 22 courses per inch.

10. A fabric according to any preceding claim, wherein the thickness of the woollen fleece is between 1.5 cm and 5.0 cm, preferably between 1.7 cm and 3.5 cm and more preferably between 1.9 cm and 2.5cm.

1 1. A fabric according to claim 10, wherein the thickness of the woollen fleece is substantially 2.5cm.

12. A fabric according to any preceding claim, wherein the fabric has a density of at least 450 grams per linear metre when the width of the fabric is 1.65m.

13. A fabric according to claim 12, wherein the fabric has a density of between 450 grams per linear metre and 1500 grams per linear metre when the width of the fabric is 1.65m

14. A fabric according to claim 13, wherein the fabric has a density of between 550 and 700 grams per linear metre when the width of the fabric is 1.65m.

15. A fabric according to any preceding claim, wherein the thickness of the base layer is in excess of 1mm.

16. A fabric according to claim 15, wherein the thickness of the base layer is in the range 1.5mm to 2.5mm.

17. A fabric according to claim 16, wherein the thickness of the base layer is substantially 2mm.

18. A fabric according to any preceding claim, wherein the base layer comprises a microfiber material or any suitable material, such as natural or synthetic fabric or fibres.

19. A fabric according to claim 18, wherein the microfibers comprise polyester and/or polyamide.

20. A fabric according to claim 18 or 19, wherein the base layer comprises faux suede.

21. A fabric according to any of claims 1 to 20, wherein the fabric further comprises a waterproof layer.

22. A fabric according to claim 21 , wherein the waterproof layer is between the base layer and the woollen fleece.

23. A fabric according to any of claims 1 to 22, wherein the base layer is washable.

24. A method of making a fabric comprising providing a stack comprising layers of woollen fleece, an adhesive and a base fabric and applying heat so as to provide a laminate of wool secured to the fabric.

25. A method of making a fabric according to claim 24, wherein the adhesive is a dry adhesive.

26. A method of making a fabric according to claim 25, wherein the adhesive is a film, web, membrane, or a powder.

27. A method of making a fabric according to any of claims 24 to 26, wherein the adhesive comprises a hot melt adhesive.

28. A method of making a fabric according to any of claims 24 to 27, wherein the adhesive includes any polymeric adhesive or combination thereof.

29. A method of making a fabric according to any of claims 24 to 28, wherein the adhesive comprises polyester.

30. A method of making a fabric according to any of claims 20 to 29, wherein fabric is heated to a temperature in the range 120°C to 200°C.

31. A method of making a fabric according to claim 30, wherein the fabric is heated to a temperature in the range 120°C to 140°C.

32. A method of making a fabric according to claim 31 , wherein the fabric is heated to a temperature of substantially 130°C.

33. A method of making a fabric according to any of claims 24 to 32, wherein heat is applied to one or both sides of the fabric.

34. A method of making a fabric according to claim 33, wherein heat is applied to one side of the fabric.

35. A method of making a fabric according to claim 34, wherein heat is applied to the side away from the woollen fleece.

36. A method of making a fabric according to any of claims 24 to 35, wherein the fabric is laminated at a speed of between 2 metres per minute and 15 metres per minute and preferably between 2.5 and 5.0 metres per minute.

37. A method of making a fabric according to claim 36, wherein the fabric is laminated at a speed of substantially 3.0 metres per minute.

38. A method of making a fabric according to any of claims 24 to 37, wherein the stack passes through an opening narrower than the total height of the stack during lamination.

39. A method of making a fabric according to any of claims 24 to 38, wherein the fabric further comprises a waterproof layer.

40. A method of making a fabric according to claim 39, wherein the waterproof layer is between the base layer and the woollen fleece.

41. A method of making a fabric according to claim 40, wherein the adhesive is located between the waterproof layer and the woollen fleece.